Breaking Brisket With 'BBQ Snob' Daniel Vaughn
A chat with the Texas Monthly barbecue critic and author of the recently released barbecue opus The Prophets of Smoked Meat: A Journey Through Texas Barbecue. More
A chat with the Texas Monthly barbecue critic and author of the recently released barbecue opus The Prophets of Smoked Meat: A Journey Through Texas Barbecue. More
While Porter House NY is on its face a steakhouse, Lomonaco sees it as a direct descendant to Windows as a quintessentially New York restaurant with a strong focus on hospitality. After the jump: a close look at the three of the menu's top steaks. More
"It's like prosciutto," Chef de Cuisine Asi Maman says of the long-aged steak special he gets from Pat LaFrieda. It's served in small portions because the flavor is so intense, and when it drops on the menu, it sells out within the hour. Here's how it gets made. More
Chef William Oliva takes us through the three most popular steaks at America's oldest fine dining restaurant. More
Tres Carnes opened last week serving up a fusion of Mexican flavors and Texas-style smoked meats using the (dare I say it?) Chipotle service model. If the concept sounds familiar, the barbecue has a stronger pedigree than you may suspect—the restaurant has enlisted Mike Rodriguez as pit master, who spent almost a decade running the pits at the legendary Salt Lick in Texas. More
Last time on Steakcraft we looked at Quality Meats' massive 64 ounce double rib steak. This week we look at another steak from their menu which is almost the polar opposite: the seared three tenderloin filets. More
Last year chef Frank Prisinzano teamed up with butchers Adam Tiberio and Erik Hassert to open a retail butcher counter as part his latest restaurant, Sauce, located on Rivington Street. The butcher counter doesn't just supply his restaurants; it also hosts large format meals for groups of ten. More
"People would fight over the bone, so we decided to give them two." This is the succinct answer that chef Stratos Georgedakis gives when I ask him how the preposterously sized rib steak for two came to have two bones when most everyone else serves one. There are plenty of steaks for two around town, but few top out at four pounds. More
Momofuku Ko turned five this year, and to celebrate David Chang and his crew brought back some of the classic dishes from years gone by for a limited two night engagement. The ten course menu featured classic dishes from the restaurant's history. More
New Yorkers may have enjoyed a renaissance of high-end pizza of late, especially for lovers of Neapolitan-style pies. But what is increasingly missing, especially in the East Village / Union Square area, is the middle ground: authentic NY slices for under $3, at the ideal intersection of cost and quality. Which is why I'm so giddy that Joe's has, at long last, expanded. And yes, folks, it's still the real deal. More
"What's more simple than cooking a steak?" asks Marc Forgione rhetorically of his dry aged tomahawk rib steak. And to Forgione it is simple, elemental even. It would be for you as well if your father was Larry Forgione, one of the deans of modern American cuisine, and if you had worked in restaurant kitchens your whole life before opening your own restaurant. More
The burger at Corner Bistro's second location in Long Island City is a taste of Greenwich Village history in a different borough. More
While Smith and Wollensky's most popular dry aged steak remains the restaurant's signature item—the 32 oz. rib steak—the steaks they fabricate from the short loin are not far behind in sales. More
It is curious that Smith and Wollensky's signature steak was not even listed on the menu until recently. Yet the Colorado rib steak—a masterful 32 oz slab of corn fed USDA Prime beef dry aged for 28 days—has been available since the restaurant opened back in 1977. More
Silva the butcher has three decades of experience, which he's currently applying to the incredible steaks at Heritage Meats in the Essex Street Market. Take a look behind the butcher counter. More
Quality steak is not something that one generally expects to find in a Chinese restaurant, but Ed Schoenfeld and Joe Ng are changing all that at RedFarm, their avant garde Chinese American restaurant in Greenwich Village. The RedFarm rib steak has all the attributes of a steakhouse cu—a juicy, dry aged chop with charred grill marks cooked perfectly to order—but adds an unexpected and unique twist to the preparation. More
While chef Michael White is best know for his rococo interpretations of Italian cuisine, he is at heart a corn-fed Midwestern kid with a love of corn-fed American beef. This is evident at three of his Manhattan restaurants: Marea, Ai Fiori, and Osteria Morini. At each he serves one of the crown jewels of the butchers meat locker—the dry aged strip loin. And just as the respective restaurants offer different glimpses of the thematic elements that inspire them, so to is the handling of the same cut, leading to three very different, yet equally compelling results. More
Chef Preston Clark of Resto and The Cannibal is one of the men behind the restaurants' serious steak program, which is comprised of a New York strip, a T-Bone, and a Cote de Bouef for two. More
While most of the menu at Tertulia veers towards tapas and small plates, the Chuleton de Buey a La Brasa—grilled ribsteak—is the polar opposite. A masterful hunk of 40-day dry aged USDA prime ribsteak is cooked over coals, imbuing it with a distinct smokiness that compliments the pronounced tang from the aging. More
City Hall Restaurant is significant in the story of the New York City hamburger because it is the first custom blend created by Pat LaFrieda when he took over his meat company from his father. Almost a decade and a half later, the juicy, steak-like burger has remained unchanged. More
While the plain burger at Tick Tock Diner leaves something to desire, topping it with egg, bacon, cheese and some amazing hash browns significantly improves it. More
I am not sure if it was the muted crunch that betrayed a crispness and airiness in the dough or the gasp of approval that left her lips as she finished the bite but I knew that something rather special was going on. I put down the camera and said "let me try that". What followed was a frenzied and orgiastic. We devoured all that lay before us. My camera was cast off like so many used napkins. Even Fashion Week and the need to look fabulously skinny was momentarily forgotten. The pizza at Pizzarium was quite simply extraordinary and completely irresistible. More
The pizza here is vanishingly thin—a perfect example of the Roman style pie. It is crispy to a degree, especially around the outer circumference, but it warps and deforms under the torrent of cheese and sauce. The molten cheese swirls and churns on the top of the pie and appears like a stormy sea. More
Ai Fiori is Italian fine dining phenom Michael White's latest restaurant venture. While White has made his name serving up world class Italian fair and garnering numerous stars from the New York Times and The Michelin Guide, he hails from Wisconsin and has a deep and abiding love, not to mention understanding, of the hamburger. Here's a look at how the White Label hamburger is made. More
A cryptic advertisement for New York-based meat wholesalers Pat LaFrieda is printed in the latest issue of Mario Batali's Viaggio Magazine. Showing only what looks like an iPhone nestled in a hamburger bun with cheese, lettuce and tomato, the... More
@Kenji It is just a regular flat top! At one point the whole surface was a rippling blue flame.
Thanks for all the comments! Steakcraft is precisely about finding out all the ways that dry aged steaks are cooked - from the most advanced molecular gastronomic techniques to the most elemental. S&W obviously falls into the latter - it is a classic steakhouse using time honored techniques that people obviously like - they sell 2 tons of beef a week!
The char they get on their steaks is a deliberate aesthetic choice - and as with all things subjective it is obviously up to individual preference. But to suggest that the there is something wrong with charring steaks doesn't make sense to me and I think the market has spoken quite emphatically in favor of the practice.
IF you don't like char ask for it to not be charred! My friend does it at Luger's all the time and gets a wonderful mahogany crust. Personally (as is indicated in the piece) I like my steak black and blue so I appreciate the fact that a steakhouse can achieve this. And as far a souv vide cooking goes a steakhouse would need a swimming pool sized C Vap to cook all the steaks and the medium rare order that is the most popular is hard to achieve.
I just did an interview with Marc Forgione for next weeks Steakcraft and he is totally opposed to the Sous Vide for steak for reasons that I will cover then. But I promise that we will be exploring souv vide steaks as well!
@ronnieshapley Unfortunately Jeffery's closed because of personal family issues. And no putting down Jeffrey's - they were a LES institution for the better part of a Century - but what Silva and Martins are doing with the space is truly unique.
Carvel f***ing rules. Any ice cream parlor referenced in a Beastie Boys song gets instant street credibility.
@burger365 I disagree. While wet aged beef of a lesser grade would benefit from the tenderizing effect of the papaya it would lose virtually all of its inherent flavor. Dry aged beef has far less water content than wet aged beef and also a far higher concentration of beef flavor. This, along with the steely tang of dry aging, really come through in the RedFarm steak. the dry aging acts as a compliment, rather than a redundancy, to the marination.
@adnan It isn't intentional and thanks for the heads up - I will look into it correct the problem.
@monopo The extra belt of fat left on the meat serves to protect the cut during cooking, allowing larger steaks to have greater portion of correctly cooked meat from edge to edge. Note that the bone has a similar effect on the other side of the chop. The presentation employed by Resto - steak sliced with all the extra fat thrown in for good measure - is actually quite common here in NYC and has its roots at Peter Luger's (amongst the city's oldest steakhouses) Chef Clark told me that he was initially leaving the fat off the plate but that customers complained. I happen to eat the fat, it is absolutely redolent with the flavor from dry aging - funky, mineral rich with blue cheese notes. But off course no one is forcing you to eat the fat, it is easy enough to trim off. The amount of edible beef is still plentiful - these are prime steers with large muscles. Also bare in mind that muscle is denser and weighs more than fat for the volume. The extra fat is not adversely impacting the bottom line of the product and is imbuing it with significant flavor.
@sabuscott No one mentions that you could start a grease fire at your table because you can't.
@P_Monk_Key Seriously?
@NYC Food Guy We pay for all of the food we review at Serious Eats. There are no behind the scenes photos. City Hall has an open kitchen of sorts - the burger on the grill images were taken from the dining room as was the the pictures of Chef Meer who was working the pass that night. He had no idea I was coming (to be honest I am not sure he even knows what AHT is) and I had already eaten the burger when I took the pictures of the him and the grill.
Thanks so much for the kind words everyone (even Simon) I look forward to my return and am bracing for the nitpicking (nickpicking?)
Photo credit should read: Nick Solares
@rsurfer I think you will find that the common consensus around SE writers and indeed amongst NYC steak lovers is that Keen's is an EXCELLENT steakhouse. One of the best in the city, which is to say one of the best in the world. If your statement about the only good thing there being the steak I think that that is all that is required of a steakhouse. But I think that the sides and the service at Keen's are generally much better than adequate. I had a chuckle when you mentioned Luger's as you will hear often hear the same complaint about them.
@Fallopian Tube What is fabricated at about the story? The burger is available for sale at B&B. I am sure that Capon will be very upset that an internet troll doesn't respect him.
@jakethemate I assure you there was nothing unintentional about my choice of words.
@zedmund It really is.
@amusebouche1 You will have to wait for out yearly roundup in December.
@JohnNOLA The burger is about a great many things. The purist, minimal burger you describe is almost precisely (I prefer a griddle over a grill) what I recommended in my review.
@SeriousB Thanks, I didn't think that too many people would notice a comment on an old post.
@sarar Sorry, I should have mentioned that I will be reviewing B&B next week and will cover the White Truffle burger and the more affordable options as well.
@gargupie Salted but under dressed.Didn't get to the crostini.
@chiffonte No one is denying that we have always had plenty of Italian restaurants in NYC. But in the last few years Eataly, 'intoteca, SD26, A Voce and Bar Stuzz have all opened within a few blocks of each other (that is what I meant when I said "local") That is significant. A few years ago the only lines in the vicinity were for burgers at Shake Shack, now there are lines outside of Eataly.
@carreet The pizza I had was very far from the "great" that you describe. I will agree that it is a work in progress. I can't recommend L'asso simply because it is the only game in town or because 2 $16 pies are enough for 6 people. I agree that is more interesting than doing another thin crust pie, but that doesn't excuse the execution.
@Prairie You would be disappointed. A picture may be worth a thousand words but it won't tell you how something tastes.
@ Seriousb: It is grated ricotta salata, there was mozzarella underneath (although not nearly enough) I don't think it was a mistake as their website has an image of the pie with the shredded cheese on top.
@piztaster The burger contains pork which is the reason they only serve it cooked through.
@gargupie yes, a decent sized basket of fresh tasting white rolls and an excellent raisin crisp bread was provided. Jackets required (but not ties)
@bronsonman You certainly have a lot of rules. Is there anything else we should be banned from photographing? How about buildings or people or animals or sunsets? What exactly is disgusting about photographing food? Who says that those that photograph their food are not enjoying it? And what exactly constitutes "taking it to far"? Earth to bronsonman - you are on a FOOD BLOG. What do you expect to find here??? Or perhaps more saliently - what are you doing here?
@SeriousB/AK It isn't the narrow DOF or the lack of flash, both of these are attainable with digital. Infact one could argue that digital has exceeded film in low light capability. My Nikon D700 for example has usable ISO up to 6400 and with a 50mm f1.2 lens I can get incredibly narrow DOF in very low light. The new D3S reportedly goes up ISO 128,000! (Canon's offerings are, I am sure, comparable although I am not familiar with their line) But what separates digital from film in my eyes is what Norman alludes to - color rendition and saturation. There is a vividness and a three dimensionality that I see in film that is not entirely present in digital.
Of course digital has come a long way and from a pro's perspective (especially for sports shooters and news photographers) the convenience and the cost and time savings tend to out weigh the aesthetic consideration.
Check this article out for more on the technical differences:
http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/filmdig.htm
[Photograph: jerakeen on Flickr] I like the full English breakfast, and I like pizza, but I'm not sure if I'd want to combine the two. Sure, this photo was uploaded to Flickr in 2005, but it's new to me. I just found it on oddee.com's roundup of "the 13 weirdest pizzas." Also in weird-pizza roundup posts, Urlesque does a "Pizza Is Crazy in Asia" video perp walk. But, hey, faithful Slice readers, you already knew that.... More
[Photograph: Robyn Lee] Lauren Vernet of the University of Bristol is known for having a "perfect palate for tasting meat." In this feature at The Independent, Kate Hilpern does a steak tasting with Vernet to learn about their different flavors (mushroom, malt, sour milk, and more) while getting Vernet's insight on how maturation period, breed, sex, and feed affect the flavor of beef. What's the best kind of beef? Vernet says it's based on individual preference: "Provided it's good-quality well-reared beef, you can't (as some butchers and chefs do) say one type is categorically better than another." He does say that a good steak should give three to four chews per mouthful: "You chew beef at the back of... More
Here's a list of all the burger styles we could think of--fast-food, fast-food style, sliders, mini burgers (yes, there's a distinction between diminutive burgers), steakhouse, fancypants, and many, many more. More
AHT's Tri-State correspondent Nick Solares has done an amazing job covering the (unfortunately) declining state of long-established slider joints in Northern New Jersey. In his guide to 11 slider destinations, read about the ones he's tried, plus a few places... More
Past Weeks' Dogs The Philly ComboTijuana DogsFlo's Hot Dogs, Cape Neddick, Maine The first, possibly most important thing to note about Texas Weiners is that they have absolutely nothing to do with Texas. Originating in Paterson, New Jersey, at Greek-owned hot dog restaurants, a Texas Weiner is deep fried and served with Greek sauce--a smooth, slow cooked meat sauce spiced with cayenne, cinnamon, allspice, cloves and cumin. It's more of a Greek Bolognese or Saltsa Kima than anything resembling Texas Chili. Legend has it the recipe is a closely guarded secret to this day. A Texas Weiner "all the way" includes mustard and diced onions. Texas Weiners also spread to Philadelphia and across Central and Northeastern Pennsylvania, where they... More
If I had to choose one final beefsteak dinner it would be the prime rib at Smith and Wollensky, a cut that I have been enjoying since moving to New York City in the mid 1980s. More
Yoshinobu Maruyama emigrated from his native Japan to the United States over three decades ago. After many years of work as a restaurant consultant and international trader he decided it was time to introduce shabu shabu to America. In Japanese, "shabu shabu" literally translates to "swish swish" and refers to the technique employed in preparing the dish. You take razor thin slices of beef and submerge them into a pot of boiling water—it cooks almost instantly. The beef is accompanied by an assortment of vegetables, noodles, and tofu that are also cooked in the water and served over rice. While some say the dish originated with Genghis Khan, it appeared in Maruyama's native Osaka in the early 20th century.... More
"Clarified butter is drizzled on top of the patty and copious amounts of salt and pepper are added throughout the cooking process. This is one pampered burger." In the months before Minetta Tavern re-opened under the auspices of Keith Mcnally... More
A few years ago I would have said that it was not possible but these days there is a paradigm shift occurring in high-end beef in New York City—an extraordinary cut of beef is being offered in three avant-garde but very different restaurants in the city: Tom Collichio’s Craft, David Chang's Momofuku Ssam Bar and Resto (with new chef Bobby Helen) collectively pose a serious challenge to the hegemony of the chophouse. More
Shopsin's General Store Stall 16, Essex Street Market, 120 Essex Street, New York NY 10002 (b/n Delancey Street and Rivington Street; map); 212-924-5160; shopsins.com The Short Order: The sliders remain excellent, but the reworked burger using "Big Marty" buns... More
Editor's note: Our man-in-burgers Nick Solares turns out to have a nose and a palate for things other than beef. He frequently eats out in serious, somewhat pricey restaurants, so we figured we'd let him out of his burger cage... More
Gourmet Burger Kitchen St. Pauls, Unit 4, Condor House, St Pauls, London, EC4M 8AL; map); (020) 7248 9199; gbkinfo.com Cooking Method: Grilled Short Order: Inconsistent but potentially decent burger using fresh ingredients and grass fed beef. Want Fries with... More
@Phong623 the basting time is taken into account (at least by good chefs!)
@BostonAdam It was an interesting discourse but was ultimately not really pertinent to article in general. He has nothing against the technique but he doesn't think it is necessary with a fatty meat like ribsteak and more importantly he wanted to use classic techniques for what he considers a classic dish.