A chat with the Texas Monthly barbecue critic and author of the recently released barbecue opus The Prophets of Smoked Meat: A Journey Through Texas Barbecue.
While Porter House NY is on its face a steakhouse, Lomonaco sees it as a direct descendant to Windows as a quintessentially New York restaurant with a strong focus on hospitality. After the jump: a close look at the three of the menu's top steaks.
"It's like prosciutto," Chef de Cuisine Asi Maman says of the long-aged steak special he gets from Pat LaFrieda. It's served in small portions because the flavor is so intense, and when it drops on the menu, it sells out within the hour. Here's how it gets made.
Chef William Oliva takes us through the three most popular steaks at America's oldest fine dining restaurant.
Tres Carnes opened last week serving up a fusion of Mexican flavors and Texas-style smoked meats using the (dare I say it?) Chipotle service model. If the concept sounds familiar, the barbecue has a stronger pedigree than you may suspect—the restaurant has enlisted Mike Rodriguez as pit master, who spent almost a decade running the pits at the legendary Salt Lick in Texas.
Last time on Steakcraft we looked at Quality Meats' massive 64 ounce double rib steak. This week we look at another steak from their menu which is almost the polar opposite: the seared three tenderloin filets.
Last year chef Frank Prisinzano teamed up with butchers Adam Tiberio and Erik Hassert to open a retail butcher counter as part his latest restaurant, Sauce, located on Rivington Street. The butcher counter doesn't just supply his restaurants; it also hosts large format meals for groups of ten.
"People would fight over the bone, so we decided to give them two." This is the succinct answer that chef Stratos Georgedakis gives when I ask him how the preposterously sized rib steak for two came to have two bones when most everyone else serves one. There are plenty of steaks for two around town, but few top out at four pounds.
Momofuku Ko turned five this year, and to celebrate David Chang and his crew brought back some of the classic dishes from years gone by for a limited two night engagement. The ten course menu featured classic dishes from the restaurant's history.
New Yorkers may have enjoyed a renaissance of high-end pizza of late, especially for lovers of Neapolitan-style pies. But what is increasingly missing, especially in the East Village / Union Square area, is the middle ground: authentic NY slices for under $3, at the ideal intersection of cost and quality. Which is why I'm so giddy that Joe's has, at long last, expanded. And yes, folks, it's still the real deal.
"What's more simple than cooking a steak?" asks Marc Forgione rhetorically of his dry aged tomahawk rib steak. And to Forgione it is simple, elemental even. It would be for you as well if your father was Larry Forgione, one of the deans of modern American cuisine, and if you had worked in restaurant kitchens your whole life before opening your own restaurant.
The burger at Corner Bistro's second location in Long Island City is a taste of Greenwich Village history in a different borough.
While Smith and Wollensky's most popular dry aged steak remains the restaurant's signature item—the 32 oz. rib steak—the steaks they fabricate from the short loin are not far behind in sales.
It is curious that Smith and Wollensky's signature steak was not even listed on the menu until recently. Yet the Colorado rib steak—a masterful 32 oz slab of corn fed USDA Prime beef dry aged for 28 days—has been available since the restaurant opened back in 1977.
Silva the butcher has three decades of experience, which he's currently applying to the incredible steaks at Heritage Meats in the Essex Street Market. Take a look behind the butcher counter.
Quality steak is not something that one generally expects to find in a Chinese restaurant, but Ed Schoenfeld and Joe Ng are changing all that at RedFarm, their avant garde Chinese American restaurant in Greenwich Village. The RedFarm rib steak has all the attributes of a steakhouse cu—a juicy, dry aged chop with charred grill marks cooked perfectly to order—but adds an unexpected and unique twist to the preparation.
While chef Michael White is best know for his rococo interpretations of Italian cuisine, he is at heart a corn-fed Midwestern kid with a love of corn-fed American beef. This is evident at three of his Manhattan restaurants: Marea, Ai Fiori, and Osteria Morini. At each he serves one of the crown jewels of the butchers meat locker—the dry aged strip loin. And just as the respective restaurants offer different glimpses of the thematic elements that inspire them, so to is the handling of the same cut, leading to three very different, yet equally compelling results.
Chef Preston Clark of Resto and The Cannibal is one of the men behind the restaurants' serious steak program, which is comprised of a New York strip, a T-Bone, and a Cote de Bouef for two.
While most of the menu at Tertulia veers towards tapas and small plates, the Chuleton de Buey a La Brasa—grilled ribsteak—is the polar opposite. A masterful hunk of 40-day dry aged USDA prime ribsteak is cooked over coals, imbuing it with a distinct smokiness that compliments the pronounced tang from the aging.
While the plain burger at Tick Tock Diner leaves something to desire, topping it with egg, bacon, cheese and some amazing hash browns significantly improves it.
I am not sure if it was the muted crunch that betrayed a crispness and airiness in the dough or the gasp of approval that left her lips as she finished the bite but I knew that something rather special was going on. I put down the camera and said "let me try that". What followed was a frenzied and orgiastic. We devoured all that lay before us. My camera was cast off like so many used napkins. Even Fashion Week and the need to look fabulously skinny was momentarily forgotten. The pizza at Pizzarium was quite simply extraordinary and completely irresistible.
The pizza here is vanishingly thin—a perfect example of the Roman style pie. It is crispy to a degree, especially around the outer circumference, but it warps and deforms under the torrent of cheese and sauce. The molten cheese swirls and churns on the top of the pie and appears like a stormy sea.
Ai Fiori is Italian fine dining phenom Michael White's latest restaurant venture. While White has made his name serving up world class Italian fair and garnering numerous stars from the New York Times and The Michelin Guide, he hails from Wisconsin and has a deep and abiding love, not to mention understanding, of the hamburger. Here's a look at how the White Label hamburger is made.
A cryptic advertisement for New York-based meat wholesalers Pat LaFrieda is printed in the latest issue of Mario Batali's Viaggio Magazine. Showing only what looks like an iPhone nestled in a hamburger bun with cheese, lettuce and tomato, the...
[Photograph: jerakeen on Flickr] I like the full English breakfast, and I like pizza, but I'm not sure if I'd want to combine the two. Sure, this photo was uploaded to Flickr in 2005, but it's new to me. I just found it on oddee.com's roundup of "the 13 weirdest pizzas." Also in weird-pizza roundup posts, Urlesque does a "Pizza Is Crazy in Asia" video perp walk. But, hey, faithful Slice readers, you already knew that....
[Photograph: Robyn Lee] Lauren Vernet of the University of Bristol is known for having a "perfect palate for tasting meat." In this feature at The Independent, Kate Hilpern does a steak tasting with Vernet to learn about their different flavors (mushroom, malt, sour milk, and more) while getting Vernet's insight on how maturation period, breed, sex, and feed affect the flavor of beef. What's the best kind of beef? Vernet says it's based on individual preference: "Provided it's good-quality well-reared beef, you can't (as some butchers and chefs do) say one type is categorically better than another." He does say that a good steak should give three to four chews per mouthful: "You chew beef at the back of...
Here's a list of all the burger styles we could think of--fast-food, fast-food style, sliders, mini burgers (yes, there's a distinction between diminutive burgers), steakhouse, fancypants, and many, many more.
AHT's Tri-State correspondent Nick Solares has done an amazing job covering the (unfortunately) declining state of long-established slider joints in Northern New Jersey. In his guide to 11 slider destinations, read about the ones he's tried, plus a few places...
Past Weeks' Dogs The Philly ComboTijuana DogsFlo's Hot Dogs, Cape Neddick, Maine The first, possibly most important thing to note about Texas Weiners is that they have absolutely nothing to do with Texas. Originating in Paterson, New Jersey, at Greek-owned hot dog restaurants, a Texas Weiner is deep fried and served with Greek sauce--a smooth, slow cooked meat sauce spiced with cayenne, cinnamon, allspice, cloves and cumin. It's more of a Greek Bolognese or Saltsa Kima than anything resembling Texas Chili. Legend has it the recipe is a closely guarded secret to this day. A Texas Weiner "all the way" includes mustard and diced onions. Texas Weiners also spread to Philadelphia and across Central and Northeastern Pennsylvania, where they...
If I had to choose one final beefsteak dinner it would be the prime rib at Smith and Wollensky, a cut that I have been enjoying since moving to New York City in the mid 1980s.
Yoshinobu Maruyama emigrated from his native Japan to the United States over three decades ago. After many years of work as a restaurant consultant and international trader he decided it was time to introduce shabu shabu to America. In Japanese, "shabu shabu" literally translates to "swish swish" and refers to the technique employed in preparing the dish. You take razor thin slices of beef and submerge them into a pot of boiling water—it cooks almost instantly. The beef is accompanied by an assortment of vegetables, noodles, and tofu that are also cooked in the water and served over rice. While some say the dish originated with Genghis Khan, it appeared in Maruyama's native Osaka in the early 20th century....
"Clarified butter is drizzled on top of the patty and copious amounts of salt and pepper are added throughout the cooking process. This is one pampered burger." In the months before Minetta Tavern re-opened under the auspices of Keith Mcnally...
A few years ago I would have said that it was not possible but these days there is a paradigm shift occurring in high-end beef in New York City—an extraordinary cut of beef is being offered in three avant-garde but very different restaurants in the city: Tom Collichio’s Craft, David Chang's Momofuku Ssam Bar and Resto (with new chef Bobby Helen) collectively pose a serious challenge to the hegemony of the chophouse.
Shopsin's General Store Stall 16, Essex Street Market, 120 Essex Street, New York NY 10002 (b/n Delancey Street and Rivington Street; map); 212-924-5160; shopsins.com The Short Order: The sliders remain excellent, but the reworked burger using "Big Marty" buns...
Editor's note: Our man-in-burgers Nick Solares turns out to have a nose and a palate for things other than beef. He frequently eats out in serious, somewhat pricey restaurants, so we figured we'd let him out of his burger cage...
Gourmet Burger Kitchen St. Pauls, Unit 4, Condor House, St Pauls, London, EC4M 8AL; map); (020) 7248 9199; gbkinfo.com Cooking Method: Grilled Short Order: Inconsistent but potentially decent burger using fresh ingredients and grass fed beef. Want Fries with...