I'm kind of surprised that an overview as ostensibly comprehensive as this doesn't go into the differences between the Sinensis and Assamica variants of C. Sinensis. Seems like an obvious and important distinction to mention as long as you're bringing up all sorts of other more subtle things.
With all due respect to Ed, it seems like he might be blowing his own role in this development a bit out of proportion. To be fair, he is hardly the only person to have taken a strong stand against the frozen fries.
Underseasoned patties. Ever hear of SALT????
This list is mega-ultra BS in practically every way imaginable. To say nothing of New York being 3rd, the omission of New Haven immediately robs it of any legitimacy or right to being taken seriously.
This is a very interesting, well-explained review. Here's my take (and I haven't eaten at Nicoletta, BTW). Having a strong New York bias myself, it seems to me that Midwestern/Chain pizza is not much more than a bastardized pidgin variety of a New York-style pie, which is the platonic ideal of an American pie (sorry--not being very subtle with my bias). Instead of making an ultra well-executed, delicious Midwestern style pie, as White seems to be doing, I would much rather see a chain that brought delicious, truly New York-style pies to those parts of the nation unaccustomed to finding it. I totally appreciate that people like White justifiably have a fondness for the style they grew up on, but for discerning NY-centrics such as myself, I totally get the confusion and luke-warm reception.
Kenji, do you recommend white or yellow onions? Does it matter?
I love them--they're classic. What can I say? Would I eat them on anything other than pizza? Probably not.
As far as Manhattan is concerned I think the West Village has an edge over the East village. And as for the outer boroughs, I'd like to give a shoutout to Staten Island, which probably has the greatest amount of excellent pizza per capita of any of the five boroughs.
Another tartar sauce taker-or-leaver here. I like it OK, and sometimes it's nice, but it's rarely something I crave. For example, if I'm eating a plate of fried clams, I might dip about half of them in tartar sauce and eat the other half plain. Depends on my mood.
Heineken? F*** that s***! Pabst Blue Ribbon!
Fresca is one of the two or three sodas that I'll bother to drink. I love it. LBJ was also a fan.
I rarely spend more than $15 on a bottle--That being said I also rarely spend less than $10 on a bottle. If it's a very special occasion, I may spend up to $25-30, but this, alas, is rare. As far as champers goes (rarest of rare) anything under $45-50 is fair game.
I'm on board with mfrapp's overall sentiment. Yes, the number of bad pizza places in New York is growing, but to those in the know (and I think most serious eats readers are "in the know") these places are extraordinarily easy to avoid. New York still has a terrific abundance of excellent pizza places, many of which are relatively new additions (like Motorino or Kestè, for instance).
It could be much worse--for instance, I currently live in DC which has some of the worst pizza in the country. And very little of the pizza is worth eating in even an emergency situation, which I would consider a typical NYC dollar slice to be. Forget that there's an overabundance of bad places and chains--finding even a mediocre place is a real chore. The fact is that whenever I'm in New York I'm seldom more than 15 minutes from a very good-to-excellent slice of pizza wherever I am. According to this metric, I'd say the state of pizza in New York is strong indeed.
And I see that it was spelled right in the headline--I'm referring to the body of the article itself. Cheers.
Just a head's up that the Roman-character transliteration should be "Arsenalnoye," with an extra "N" towards the end. Nice column, though.
I also think OO is better than Jim Beam rye. As arbeck said, it's not _MUCH_ better, but I think it's more woody and spicy whereas Beam is more on the fruity side. I agree that Rittenhouse 100 and Wild Turkey 101 are much better (and probably even better value, considering the proof) than either, but also much better is the 80 proof Pikesville (which I think is only available in the mid-Atlantic region), but it's quite good and similarly priced to OO/JB.
I am having a love affair with this ice cream sandwich.
Probably Minetta Tavern Black Label. Although I sort of want to try the "DB Royale" as well.
Cooked medium--fatty and salty--no more than 1/4 lb of meat. Melted American cheese. Soft, toasted bun. Mustard, raw onions, pickles. No ketchup.
I may have to defend Leventhal here. I agree that the comparison between Ben's and Artichoke isn't exactly fair, but they're both pizza and one is clearly better value. Even if I were absolutely CRAVING a slice from Artichoke (a very unlikely contingency, I might add), I'd probably settle for a less expensive NY slice substitute unless I was feeling particularly flush with dollar billz. As far as the pizza itself is concerned, I long ago stopped purchasing their regular slices as they're inconsistent and often badly burned although the overwhelming olive-oilyness of the slice was always a plus in my book. I occasionally buy an "Artichoke" slice, since it's actually rather hefty and filling (if slightly queasy-making).
I'm a big fan of Cape Cod chips in general. The waffle-cuts look good and def. worth a try--I'm not sure about the Chef's Recipe, though. My preference as of late has been for minimally seasoned chips. I've even bought a few bags of totally unsalted chips in the past year (they're not nearly as bad as they sound). And speaking of UTZ, have you tried the "Grandma Utz" variety? They're fried in lard and probably, like, the greatest thing ever.
Don't get me wrong--I appreciate your advocacy on behalf of ramps and I enjoy them myself. I guess I was meaning to convey a sense of mild weariness rather than outright disdain. I think the only thing I would add, to echo what Tiber said, is that the coverage Serious Eats has given to ramps recently seems well out of proportion to their delightfulness--and I myself consider them most delightful. I shall continue to carefully pick and choose which articles and recipes I read out of the 40 posted daily, but I shall also continue to roll my eyes when I scroll past a headline with the word "ramp" in it.
Actually, I think the whole ramp thing is getting a bit tiresome. A bit overkill if you ask me.
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