A Chef, runner, curmudgeon, photographer, writer, gardener and entrepreneur. (Angrywayne is a joke, but sometimes it applies well). Don't like what I have to say email me wayne.surber at gmail.com, I'm sure we can work it out. ;)
You open with and image of Fung Tu's noodles that utilizes a fantastic chili oil, but don't mention it in the piece, poor form. 😕
Always a pleasure to read Leandra's column and look at those photos! Progress there at Serious Eats. We know you are a scrappy staff and will figure out a great way to grow in the coming years! FRENCH TOAST CRUNCH FOREVER
Alcohol should be added after the passing through a fine mesh strainer. Otherwise, you are wasting a small amount of alcohol.
It's not a shill, I saw my friend Dan, a really great ingredient source, post about it.
Or just buy this and add a bit to taste to your batch http://shop.halenmon.com/Product.aspx?ProductID=59&CategoryID=3
I love this. Make me feel pretty justified about being fucking annoyed by Chef Keller's insistence on the opposite for years. Lookout! at your next TK social ;) Less wasted water in a kitchen is a huge thing.
I think the picnic area over on Cesar Chavez where Kerlin BBQ and Veracruz All Natural (tacos and more) is a lot more real of a TX experience.
Pro Tip for Pro Kitchens:
Need a lot of HB Eggs? Have a Combi oven?
Set Combi Oven to 212F Full Steam.
Wait till it reaches full steam at 212F.
Fill entire Combi Oven with (1/2 or full depending on oven) sheet pans full of one layer of eggs (cold).
Have dry towels (a few extra) speed rack ready for removing post cooking.
Fire for 12 minutes at full steam 212F.
Remove, place on rack (preferably with wheels) transport to ice bath (~2-6min trip depending on kitchen size)
Toss into cambro pre-filled with ice bath.
Swirl around to assure even cooling.
Let chill for 10 mins.
Drain and peel.
Perfect HB Eggs.
I've cooked literally thousands of eggs this way in a Rational Combi. One of the many useful things in a pro kitchen.
Whoa, I find myself agreeing with @AndroidUser I must be off my game today.
Good review. Nearly spot on in regards to the food and space. What you are missing, because you still haven't traveled to TX, is the direct reference and quote to Louis Mueller's http://www.louiemuellerbarbecue.com/ in Taylor, TX, the ambience is a great NY interpretation of that space and idea. Rowdier, less history, and more energy all around.
My biggest complaint. Where is the bland white bread? I know, there is nothing special about that bread, but it serves a good purpose and a not so gentle reminder of the inspiration. Look forward to going back soon with more friends.
NB: Meats, it could use more smoke (like an hour or two at best) on that brisket and less time resting in plastic wrap.
Cheap ass cook note: Instead of buying bars of chocolate, make them with semi-sweet chips or chips of your preference. I melt my chips over a bain marie setup, stir in chili powders, smoked salts, and other fine flavorings, and pour into rectangular 'chinese food container' lids. Pop into the freezer for a few minutes, take out and chop away. A bag of chocolates is usually cheaper than a bar and the bar is just so easy to make.
I don't bother with temping the chocolate or tempering properly, but it always works by melting to fully melted and then pouring and chilling to set.
Oops I mean http://www.seriouseats.com/thanksgiving/
Android users @threeleggeddog, @heathytouch101, @sanni. I love Serious Eats and as a long time reader and commenter I have some suggestions.
A) Point your browser on your android device to http://www.seriouseats.com/thanksgiving-side-dishes
That's 100% free content which happens to encompass the same featured articles in the magazine (and more!). Both are lovely in their own rights.
B) Understand that you are paying Serious Eats if you do subscribe or purchase an Apple based magazine, sure Apple takes a cut, but Serious Eats earns money on that too. Hence, you are increasing their sources of revenue. There are thousands of businesses actually trying to earn their living this way. Time will tell if this proves to be a lucrative model I'm sure.
C) Contrary to your assumption, Android isn't worth adding, Android users don't buy apps like Apples users do. But as they've said before they are hoping to develop an Android version soon so they can continue to provide excellent service and content for us (mostly) freeloaders
D) If you click on those ads we all hate, the serious eats staff are more likely to earn a better salary, continue to improve the site, hire more staff and continue providing excellent and amazing amounts of content.
E) I hope this is helpful.
@TeacherTalk You are why I like SE. Oh, and my wife and all the other lovely staff and writers.
I have to think this is a cultural perspective. Sometimes it's kind of fun to not hear what the 'intellectual' at the table is blathering on about while enjoying the band. Sometimes it's not, always depends on the place, the food served and the atmosphere set. Would I expect a brass band at Le Bernadin? Nope, but it might be hella fun to watch all the sour pusses that dine their live a little.
Chill. Says the guy with angry in his name ;)
Please use a new photo for this series. That photo doesn't make me want to take a class in cooking. How about some photos that are pertinent to the classes offered?
As a Texan, a good breakfast taco does not contain 'hard scrambled' eggs. They are just cooked. Those places that serve the eggs over bain marie's are good 'in a pinch' when you are bleary eyed from a long night out and early rise, but avoidable.
While I feel I need to write a more definitive post. This sunny side up shit just won't do. DOn't get me wrong, it's pretty, and I'm sure it's tasty (and overly messy unless you are eating it with a fork...you aren't are you?...you are aren't you? yankee.) It's not huevos rancheros dude.
Fresh flour tortillas, preferred.
Eggs just cooked and scrambled.
Salsa absorption (from your previous post) well is not the issue, the issue is does it pair well with the other components and can you taste it. Is there enough? And a squeeze a Lime, for breakfast, with my coffee? No thanks. It is purty though.
There is no definitive potato and egg breakfast taco. However, crispy potatoes are generally preferred. In elementary school in Texas we'd get this potato and egg and chorizo orangish mush, you'd detest it Kenji, I know I did. It looked like vomit. That is not what we are going for here.
Most popular is the grated and crispy fried variety or small dice. I medium dice mine, any good roasting potato, hard roast them and then toss with pimenton, because, why the fuck not? Pan roasting, your method is fine, but they don't look crisp enough to me (also, needs more salt). Then re-heat them in a neutral oil on the griddle, when crispy add the eggs, move quickly and into the fresh tortilla. Hit with salsa. Eat. No photos. No bullshit.
Potato and egg tacos, always like a bit of acid, rather than just lime a great salsa verde works best or a really fantastic roasted tomato and pulla or arbol chili. Then it doesn't cover up the fancy pour over coffee I'm sippin', it complements it.
I think you're aversion to the textures of breakfast tacos is not a war we're gonna win here. You grew up in the land of ...well...bagels and scrapple dude. But when you do have that mind blowing breakfast taco, and it's more than likely going to be a simple one. Potato and Egg, Chorizo and Egg, Bacon and Egg, or Rerfied Beans, Cheese and Egg (oh my). There's a special way to do each of them and really, everyone likes theirs just a certain way. Keep trying.
@Max Great piece. Dondurma though, yuck. We got some off Istikal in Istanbul from the Dondurma guys that do sometimes creepily intimate things with the dondurma pole before the ice cream hits your cone.
turns of bellini
ballooning and scalloping
I think you need to do a head to head comparison, same test with whole eggs and yolks, half yolks/half whole, etc. I use the later. I'm glad to see my suspicions confirmed in your tests. Great piece Max (et al).
I think I've read this interview twice now. Each time it re-inspires me. It was an honor to have worked with Benno for a short period I encourage more to do so.
When @ambientt and I were in Chengdu, China back in 2010. eatingasia.com mentioned a woman that was banging out amazing dishes in a back alley. We followed their vague directions and found her cranking out some of the best chinese food I've ever had. The best dish that day for me was the Long Beans cooked with tiny dried chilis, sichuan peppercorn chili paste and god know what. The most memorable texture and flavor I've ever had with green beans and have been trying to recreate it ever since. I think I just need a 50-100BTU flame under a wok and I can come a little closer.
We're no longer offering these as Fany has launched her own campaign and we don't want to detract from that. http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/2009369622/help-rebuild-la-newyorkinas-kitchen