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angrywayne

A Chef, runner, curmudgeon, photographer, writer, gardener and entrepreneur. (Angrywayne is a joke, but sometimes it applies well). Don't like what I have to say email me wayne.surber at gmail.com, I'm sure we can work it out. ;)

  • Website
  • Location: Brooklyn, NY
  • Favorite foods: breakfast tacos,any braised dish, pork, idiazabal, grey's papaya dogs, head cheese,Taramousalata, gaeia olives, meyer lemons, buddhas hand citron, texas smoked beef briskets, tamales (puerca), tomatillos, yellow tail, roasted eel, fried bannas, marsc
  • Last bite on earth: Applewood Smoked Bacon Doughnut with Maple Glaze

The Glorious Return of French Toast Crunch

Always a pleasure to read Leandra's column and look at those photos! Progress there at Serious Eats. We know you are a scrappy staff and will figure out a great way to grow in the coming years! FRENCH TOAST CRUNCH FOREVER

Fresh Watermelon Margaritas

Alcohol should be added after the passing through a fine mesh strainer. Otherwise, you are wasting a small amount of alcohol.

The Best Sweet Use for Your Smoker? Smoked Ice Cream

It's not a shill, I saw my friend Dan, a really great ingredient source, post about it.

The Best Sweet Use for Your Smoker? Smoked Ice Cream

Are the Rules of Big-Pot Blanching True?

Fascinating Captain.

Are the Rules of Big-Pot Blanching True?

I love this. Make me feel pretty justified about being fucking annoyed by Chef Keller's insistence on the opposite for years. Lookout! at your next TK social ;) Less wasted water in a kitchen is a huge thing.

Where to Eat Outdoors in Austin, TX, 2014 Edition

I think the picnic area over on Cesar Chavez where Kerlin BBQ and Veracruz All Natural (tacos and more) is a lot more real of a TX experience.

https://foursquare.com/v/kerlin-bbq-austin-tx/522a0ab111d273c5ca809720

https://foursquare.com/v/veracruz-all-natural/4d8d295fc1b1721e798b1246

The Food Lab: The Hard Truth About Boiled Eggs

Pro Tip for Pro Kitchens:

Need a lot of HB Eggs? Have a Combi oven?

Set Combi Oven to 212F Full Steam.
Wait till it reaches full steam at 212F.
Fill entire Combi Oven with (1/2 or full depending on oven) sheet pans full of one layer of eggs (cold).
Have dry towels (a few extra) speed rack ready for removing post cooking.
Fire for 12 minutes at full steam 212F.
Remove, place on rack (preferably with wheels) transport to ice bath (~2-6min trip depending on kitchen size)
Toss into cambro pre-filled with ice bath.
Swirl around to assure even cooling.
Let chill for 10 mins.
Drain and peel.
Rinse Eggs.
Perfect HB Eggs.

I've cooked literally thousands of eggs this way in a Rational Combi. One of the many useful things in a pro kitchen.

How to Trim Pork Spareribs Into a St. Louis-Style Cut

Whoa, I find myself agreeing with @AndroidUser I must be off my game today.

Hometown Barbecue Sings the Ballad of Beef Ribs

Good review. Nearly spot on in regards to the food and space. What you are missing, because you still haven't traveled to TX, is the direct reference and quote to Louis Mueller's http://www.louiemuellerbarbecue.com/ in Taylor, TX, the ambience is a great NY interpretation of that space and idea. Rowdier, less history, and more energy all around.

My biggest complaint. Where is the bland white bread? I know, there is nothing special about that bread, but it serves a good purpose and a not so gentle reminder of the inspiration. Look forward to going back soon with more friends.

NB: Meats, it could use more smoke (like an hour or two at best) on that brisket and less time resting in plastic wrap.

The Food Lab: The Science of the Best Chocolate Chip Cookies

Cheap ass cook note: Instead of buying bars of chocolate, make them with semi-sweet chips or chips of your preference. I melt my chips over a bain marie setup, stir in chili powders, smoked salts, and other fine flavorings, and pour into rectangular 'chinese food container' lids. Pop into the freezer for a few minutes, take out and chop away. A bag of chocolates is usually cheaper than a bar and the bar is just so easy to make.
I don't bother with temping the chocolate or tempering properly, but it always works by melting to fully melted and then pouring and chilling to set.

Meet the Serious Eats Magazine Thanksgiving Issue!

Meet the Serious Eats Magazine Thanksgiving Issue!

Android users @threeleggeddog, @heathytouch101, @sanni. I love Serious Eats and as a long time reader and commenter I have some suggestions.

A) Point your browser on your android device to http://www.seriouseats.com/thanksgiving-side-dishes

That's 100% free content which happens to encompass the same featured articles in the magazine (and more!). Both are lovely in their own rights.

B) Understand that you are paying Serious Eats if you do subscribe or purchase an Apple based magazine, sure Apple takes a cut, but Serious Eats earns money on that too. Hence, you are increasing their sources of revenue. There are thousands of businesses actually trying to earn their living this way. Time will tell if this proves to be a lucrative model I'm sure.

C) Contrary to your assumption, Android isn't worth adding, Android users don't buy apps like Apples users do. But as they've said before they are hoping to develop an Android version soon so they can continue to provide excellent service and content for us (mostly) freeloaders

D) If you click on those ads we all hate, the serious eats staff are more likely to earn a better salary, continue to improve the site, hire more staff and continue providing excellent and amazing amounts of content.

E) I hope this is helpful.

Slice is Ten Years Old: Happy Birthday, Slice!

@TeacherTalk You are why I like SE. Oh, and my wife and all the other lovely staff and writers.

Dear Restaurants: Please Stop Playing Live Music

I have to think this is a cultural perspective. Sometimes it's kind of fun to not hear what the 'intellectual' at the table is blathering on about while enjoying the band. Sometimes it's not, always depends on the place, the food served and the atmosphere set. Would I expect a brass band at Le Bernadin? Nope, but it might be hella fun to watch all the sour pusses that dine their live a little.

Chill. Says the guy with angry in his name ;)

NYC Cooking Classes to Take This Week and Beyond

Please use a new photo for this series. That photo doesn't make me want to take a class in cooking. How about some photos that are pertinent to the classes offered?

Breakfast Tacos with Crispy Potatoes, Chorizo, and Fried Egg

As a Texan, a good breakfast taco does not contain 'hard scrambled' eggs. They are just cooked. Those places that serve the eggs over bain marie's are good 'in a pinch' when you are bleary eyed from a long night out and early rise, but avoidable.

While I feel I need to write a more definitive post. This sunny side up shit just won't do. DOn't get me wrong, it's pretty, and I'm sure it's tasty (and overly messy unless you are eating it with a fork...you aren't are you?...you are aren't you? yankee.) It's not huevos rancheros dude.

The Basics:
Fresh flour tortillas, preferred.
Eggs just cooked and scrambled.
Salsa absorption (from your previous post) well is not the issue, the issue is does it pair well with the other components and can you taste it. Is there enough? And a squeeze a Lime, for breakfast, with my coffee? No thanks. It is purty though.

There is no definitive potato and egg breakfast taco. However, crispy potatoes are generally preferred. In elementary school in Texas we'd get this potato and egg and chorizo orangish mush, you'd detest it Kenji, I know I did. It looked like vomit. That is not what we are going for here.

Most popular is the grated and crispy fried variety or small dice. I medium dice mine, any good roasting potato, hard roast them and then toss with pimenton, because, why the fuck not? Pan roasting, your method is fine, but they don't look crisp enough to me (also, needs more salt). Then re-heat them in a neutral oil on the griddle, when crispy add the eggs, move quickly and into the fresh tortilla. Hit with salsa. Eat. No photos. No bullshit.

Potato and egg tacos, always like a bit of acid, rather than just lime a great salsa verde works best or a really fantastic roasted tomato and pulla or arbol chili. Then it doesn't cover up the fancy pour over coffee I'm sippin', it complements it.

I think you're aversion to the textures of breakfast tacos is not a war we're gonna win here. You grew up in the land of ...well...bagels and scrapple dude. But when you do have that mind blowing breakfast taco, and it's more than likely going to be a simple one. Potato and Egg, Chorizo and Egg, Bacon and Egg, or Rerfied Beans, Cheese and Egg (oh my). There's a special way to do each of them and really, everyone likes theirs just a certain way. Keep trying.


Breakfast Tacos with Crispy Potatoes, Chorizo, and Fried Egg

A Tour of Bay Ridge with Allison Robicelli

@Max Great piece. Dondurma though, yuck. We got some off Istikal in Istanbul from the Dondurma guys that do sometimes creepily intimate things with the dondurma pole before the ice cream hits your cone.

Win Pop Chart Lab's Plethora of Pasta Permutations Poster

turns of bellini
ballooning and scalloping
the tortellini

Do I Need to Use Eggs in Ice Cream (and How Many?)

I think you need to do a head to head comparison, same test with whole eggs and yolks, half yolks/half whole, etc. I use the later. I'm glad to see my suspicions confirmed in your tests. Great piece Max (et al).

We Chat With Chef Jonathan Benno of Lincoln Ristorante

I think I've read this interview twice now. Each time it re-inspires me. It was an honor to have worked with Benno for a short period I encourage more to do so.

Cook the Book: 'Every Grain of Rice'

When @ambientt and I were in Chengdu, China back in 2010. eatingasia.com mentioned a woman that was banging out amazing dishes in a back alley. We followed their vague directions and found her cranking out some of the best chinese food I've ever had. The best dish that day for me was the Long Beans cooked with tiny dried chilis, sichuan peppercorn chili paste and god know what. The most memorable texture and flavor I've ever had with green beans and have been trying to recreate it ever since. I think I just need a 50-100BTU flame under a wok and I can come a little closer.

Besitos Picantes

We're no longer offering these as Fany has launched her own campaign and we don't want to detract from that. http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/2009369622/help-rebuild-la-newyorkinas-kitchen

Holiday Giveaway: The Amazing Thermapen Thermometer

my besitos picantes to see what temp they hit after cooking for 5 mins ;)

Cup for Cup: Vegan Baking with a cup4cup flour substitute

I have a few questions and some comments and observation.

Out of curiosity.
a) Have any of you bakers out there used Cup 4 Cup as a gluten-free baking substitute?

b) Has anyone used it and figured out the ratio of ingredients?

c) Is anyone willing to try?

d) Isn't a product like this something whose recipe should be shared with the commons?

Lawyers and co., While I support the intent and purpose of copyright and patent laws, I'm always dumbfounded when corporations are afraid to post recipes for products that contribute to the general good and welfare of the commons, under the guise that they are threatened by "competitors" stealing their product and driving away their market.

If your product is of a specific standard and quality, you should have no fear and believe in your brand and be able to post how you make your product without fear of being the best at making it.

My intent is not to attack Cup 4 Cup. I love their business idea and product, but I think the question and concern applies to the larger sharing of ideas in general and am curious what folks think.

Note: While I have worked for one of the founders of this company, I am not affiliated or connected to the company in any way. I found out about it via gossip and internet like all you. ;) I've heard the pastry chef is a brilliant person and I know Chef is.

Kitchen Tool to Share

As a chef married to a technology geek, I benefit from finding out about a lot of cool stuff that comes out on the web and otherwise.

One of my favorite things on the web, especially in determining nutritional value and doing conversions is Stephen Wolfram's http://www.wolframalpha.com

I often use this professionally to get nutritional information on recipes I've created and thought a lot of people may not know about it, so why not post it here.

It can do other cool shit, so look at the examples. I've been amazed. In fact, my friend (an early adopter) has the new iPhone that has Siri on it and you can simply ask it a question and it uses the wolfram engine to convert it back to you in a robot voice. Lazy, I know, I love math too, but there are moment in the kitchen when rationality has completely left the building and I think its perfect for that.

Let me know what you think.

French Traditional Ciders

I just finished reading the spring issue of "The Art of Eating" and while fascinated by the entire journal this issue, the piece on Cider and its history in France as a drink was particularly insightful and inspiring. I highly recommend this whole journal, terrific writing this issue.

I was wondering if anyone knows of a good place to get some traditionally made ciders here (NYC area). I've had Eve's Cider and her Ice Cider, but I'm looking for something slightly more funky. Barnyard is in the realm I'm speaking of.

Writers, get serious about cooking and use a scale in recipes.

I can't express what a tragedy it is for cooks home and professional alike to continue to use and follow the English system of measurement for recipes.

I turn red in the face every time I sit down to published work, online and in print, to try something someone else has thought up or tried and true and its got a cup of flour or a tsp of salt or a tablespoon of butter. ACK!

I think Serious Eats, should get serious on this and lead the way. We've all made and posted our recipes in these old tired ways and many of us have come to groan and regret it. Education starts with consistency in message and repetition of the same thing, throw the cups away. Invest in a scale. I guarantee you could have paid for it time over in failed recipes and measuring cup purchases.

What days,when and how long do you take to shop for ingredients?

I was having a conversation with my wife about our crazy shopping adventures, between fighting the crowds and not being able to find everything we need and was wondering how everyone else manages it. Half of cooking is about the ingredients and beyond the cost of goods lately it seems it sure does suck up a lot of our time, at least where we live. I was curious if we are alone.

Do we all shop on the same days or are we all over the map? Do we head out after work, before work, or early in the morning like my father-in-law?

Please tell me: 1. What days you usually head to the grocery store or market (i know this may differ but generally) 2. what state you are in (and city if you don't mind), and 3.what time you usually shop? 4. How long does your round trip journey take?

This ought to be interesting. I'll go first. 1). W,F & Sat. 2).Brooklyn, NY 3). Morning, between 8am and 11am. 4). 5 hours.

KYOTO, JAPAN on a budget...

Serious Eats friends...we're desperate in Kyoto. We resorted to MOS burger for dinner tonight because everything else would cost us our travel budget to get off this island.

Friends, at this time of need, we hope you can help. A neighborhood a few restaurants. We have 1 lunch and 1 dinner left. Our budget is no more than 3000 yen for two. Preferable less and preferably good. We aren't planning to drink.

Help!

James Beard Award Nominations 2009, No Serious Eats? WTF?

Maybe it's because I'm biased. I know some of the people behind serious eats. It's based here in NYC. I read it at least 3 times a week. Or maybe it's because the Judges at the James Beard Foundation don't stray far from their "old standbys". But WTF?

When I want interesting information about food, restaurants or nutrition. I mean cutting edge, made by the people for the people. I turn to serious eats not the nominees of this year.

In fact, I rarely even land on their sites. Gourmet.com, chow.com, epicurious.com? What?

Chow is owned by CBS now. And Gourmet and Epicurious are both owned by Conde Nast. Is anyone else with me on this? Against me, help me understand this. Do we need to reward those with the deepest pockets or those that produce some of the best content on the web?

Are these the "...best and brightest talent in the food and beverage industry." as the James Beard Foundation claims the awards are supposed to highlight?

Is there such a thing as a responsible and environmentally friendly take-out container?

I work at a restaurant in the city and much of our business is retail to-go. Personally, I've always hated plastic take-out containers. We use them and I'm looking for alternatives. We need something elegant yet cost-effective and portable. Reusable would be great but plastic is really getting lame. I'm tired of contributing to overconsumption of oil and petroleum based products and I would love suggestions on where and how to change this in our restaurant.

How to Cook Ribs for 12,000 People: 2 Days at the Big Apple Barbecue Block Party

I've covered the Big Apple Barbecue Block Party for four years now, always as a civilian eating his way through the entire barbecue line up. But this year it was time to step on the other side of the smoker and see what it's like to cook for one of New York's largest food events. So I embedded myself with a crew that's been more than kind to me over the years: 17th Street Barbecue. More

What's the Difference Between Tex-Mex and Mexican Food?

Mexican food confused me when I first moved to Texas. Suddenly I encountered restaurants serving the Lone Star state's famous queso dip next to cochinita pibil from Yucatán wrapped in flour tortillas. I didn't know what to make of it. But Carlos Rivero, owner of El Chile Cafe y Cantina and several other Mexican restaurants in Austin, clarified that "'Mexican' is a very broad term because that profile encompasses so many different flavors and ingredients. When come to El Chile, you can have a modern take on Mexican or you can have the die-hard fajita platter. It's up to you." More

NYC Taco Hunting: Have You Tried These Rare Tacos?

In theory, the taco is a simple food: tortilla, filling, maybe some garnish, done. But there's an incredible variety of what you can stick in that tortilla well beyond the usual chicken-beef-pork. From eggs (beyond breakfast tacos) to off-off cuts (eyes, anyone?) to fried bugs, the taco comes in many flavors, and if you hunt around New York's taquerias and restaurants, you can find some examples well beyond the standards. More

Danny Mena on his Mexico City Cuisine and Where it Fits in New York

Danny Mena grew Hecho en Dumbo from a pop-up into a full Mexican restaurant of inventive cuisine. Now at Sembrado in the East Village, he combines traditional tacos al carbon with a "New York sensibility" and high-quality ingredients. In time to celebrate Dia de los Muertos with some mezcal and tacos de lengua, we sat with Mena to talk about what he thinks of the Mexican landscape of cuisine in New York and where he fits into it. More

A Tour of Bay Ridge with Allison Robicelli

Cupcake baker turned humanitarian organizer and cookbook author Allison Robicelli has spent her whole life in Bay Ridge, and though she keeps saying she'll leave some day, she always asks herself, "Where would I go?" We asked her to give us a tour of some of her favorite neighborhood spots, and as a few quick bites with a doomed attempt at restraint soon turned into a gut-busting night of eating, we were reminded why Bay Ridge is one of Brooklyn's most fun and inviting food neighborhoods. More

An Ode to Fedora, Ziggy Piggy, and Restaurant Off-Hours

I've never arrived at Fedora composed. It's always the sense of escaping, into somewhere calmer, sheltered, snug. It's an excuse to stay longer than I'd intend, which at a place like Fedora is not a bad thing at all. I was charmed from the start on my first visit, but I was charmed more than anything by an older gentlemen who lumbered down the stairs round about 11 p.m., brushed the snow from his cap, and settled in at the bar with a Fernet, neat—and a worn copy of The Iliad. More

Announcing Serious Eats Chicago

Chicago is no stranger to Serious Eats; just in the last few months we've talked about the city's best French fries, its best cannoli and doughnuts, coffee bars and bourbon drinks, events like Chicago Gourmet, and so much more. But it's high time that one of America's great food cities had its own home on Serious Eats. So we're thrilled to announce that Serious Eats: Chicago will launch on Monday, November 14—headed up by longtime SE'r and former Grub Street Chicago editor Nick Kindelsperger. More

Gray's Papaya in Greenwich Village Now Serving Dollar Slices

There's a reason why the hot dog line remains long while the line for dollar slices at Greenwich Village Gray's Papaya is nonexistant. The slices there, ladies and gents, are not very good. And, no, there are no hot dog–topped slices at Gray's. Although, if you spend an extra buck fifty, you can improvise, as I did — photographic evidence, after the jump. More

San Antonio: How to Make Puffy Tacos

A puffy taco is not a crispy taco, a crunchy taco, or a soft taco. It is strictly a puffy taco, and after having one (or three), you may be willing to forsake all other taco forms. Chef Diana Barrios-Treviño Los Barrios in San Antonio will readily admit that she didn't invent the puffy, but she and her family have perfected them over the years. Maybe you've seen her make them on Throwdown with Bobby Flay (and win)? The puffy taco shells are super-crisp on the outside but soft within—surprisingly light for fried dough. We were recently in San Antonio and learned how to make the Tex-Mex specialty. More

So Long, Folks (and See You Next Week)

Well, folks, are you sitting down?* This is it for me. The end of an era. After four and a half years at Serious Eats/SENY, almost eight years of blabbing on Slice, and six years of intermittent burgering on A Hamburger Today, I'm bidding a fond farewell to you all. Today's my last day at Serious Eats, a site (a group of websites, really) that I'm happy and extremely grateful to have had a part in shaping. More

Michael Ruhlman's 'Ratio' Becomes an Apple iPhone App

Michael Ruhlman's Ratio is coming to the iPhone in the form of an app due out as soon as the Apple App Store can test and approve it. What it comprises: "The 32 critical ratios that form the backbone of the culinary arts, with instructions: doughs, batters, meat preparations, custards, sauces," along with an ingredient calculator, an ounces-to-grams converter, and, this being an iPhone, "ways to share your cooking on Twitter and Facebook." Ruhlman's site doesn't indicate a price, but he's mentioned on Twitter that he thinks "$4.99 is appropriate." [via Eat Me Daily]... More

Best Egg Salad

Where do you get yours? My favorite is at Garden Market in Greenpoint, Brooklyn. Lots of dill and I like that the eggs are sliced, not crumbled (or scrambled looking)... More

Seriously Delicious Holiday Giveaway: Southside Market Sausage

Every day through January 3 we're giving away a crazy good food item on Serious Eats. Try your luck, and if you win, you'll be eating some seriously delicious food come the new year. When winter draws near, I start thinking about sausage. (Actually, I think about sausage year-round.) About the best, juiciest, meatiest, just-smoky-enough sausage I know is the sausage the Bracewell family makes and serves at their phenomenal Texas barbecue joint the Southside Market. The Bracewells are a generously spirited bunch, so they've given us ten pound packages of their incomparable sausage to give away as part of the Seriously Delicious Holiday Giveaway. Win and you can have your very own Texas barbecue sausage holiday party. Doesn't that... More