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From Serious Eats: New York

New Jersey Dispatch: Cherry Grove Farm in Princeton

My problem with the meat at Cherry Grove is that it's all frozen when you buy it: if you're going to the effort of raising quality, heritage livestock (not to mention charging heritage breed prices), it doesn't make sense to degrade the quality of the meat across the board by pre-freezing it. It's too bad: if they kept a couple of the more popular cuts available refrigerated, I would certainly buy from there more often.

From Recipes

Cook the Book: Charred Sea Scallops with Smoked Sea Salt

It's also pretty simple to smoke your own salt rather than buying it. Choose a flaky salt with a lot of surface area. I use a Cameron stovetop smoker, but it works just as well on a charcoal grill: just put the salt in a foil tray, throw some wood chips on the fire, and close the lid. It's one of the easiest things you'll ever smoke, because you can't overcook salt.

From Recipes

Super Bowl Snacks: Slow-Fried Buffalo Wings

If you have free time on your hands, try extracting the bones from the wings before confiting them (sharp cleaver + needle-nose pliers). It's tedious, but you end up with perfect whole morsels of bird. Best chicken nuggets ever.

From Serious Eats

Cooking from Thomas Keller's 'Under Pressure'

Hi Simon,

If what you're trying to say is that sous vide should not be done without a thorough understanding of the principles and the risks, I couldn't agree with you more. I would encourage anyone looking to explore this method to do the appropriate research, and to feel comfortable in their own understanding of what makes various aspects of sous vide safe or unsafe. I've done that due diligence, and it's helped me make decisions on when a particular piece of equipment might be inappropriate, and when it should be fine.

That said, you rightly point out that there are still risks associated with this activity. Anyone interested in sous vide needs to come to a personal decision on whether it's worth those risks, just as you need to make that decision on just about any other activity worth doing, whether it's driving a car, eating a rare steak, or indeed, having sex. For the record, I've reached the same decision on all four of those activities.

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Recent Comments | Response to Comments

From Serious Eats: New York

New Jersey Dispatch: Cherry Grove Farm in Princeton

My problem with the meat at Cherry Grove is that it's all frozen when you buy it: if you're going to the effort of raising quality, heritage livestock (not to mention charging heritage breed prices), it doesn't make sense to degrade the quality of the meat across the board by pre-freezing it. It's too bad: if they kept a couple of the more popular cuts available refrigerated, I would certainly buy from there more often.

From Recipes

Cook the Book: Charred Sea Scallops with Smoked Sea Salt

It's also pretty simple to smoke your own salt rather than buying it. Choose a flaky salt with a lot of surface area. I use a Cameron stovetop smoker, but it works just as well on a charcoal grill: just put the salt in a foil tray, throw some wood chips on the fire, and close the lid. It's one of the easiest things you'll ever smoke, because you can't overcook salt.

From Recipes

Super Bowl Snacks: Slow-Fried Buffalo Wings

If you have free time on your hands, try extracting the bones from the wings before confiting them (sharp cleaver + needle-nose pliers). It's tedious, but you end up with perfect whole morsels of bird. Best chicken nuggets ever.

From Serious Eats

Cooking from Thomas Keller's 'Under Pressure'

Hi Simon,

If what you're trying to say is that sous vide should not be done without a thorough understanding of the principles and the risks, I couldn't agree with you more. I would encourage anyone looking to explore this method to do the appropriate research, and to feel comfortable in their own understanding of what makes various aspects of sous vide safe or unsafe. I've done that due diligence, and it's helped me make decisions on when a particular piece of equipment might be inappropriate, and when it should be fine.

That said, you rightly point out that there are still risks associated with this activity. Anyone interested in sous vide needs to come to a personal decision on whether it's worth those risks, just as you need to make that decision on just about any other activity worth doing, whether it's driving a car, eating a rare steak, or indeed, having sex. For the record, I've reached the same decision on all four of those activities.

From Serious Eats: New York

Popcorn Chicken, AKA Chicken Crack, at ViVi Bubble Tea in Chinatown

If sitting in that that cold, hard lap will score me some popcorn chicken, I guess I'll suck it up next time. :)

From Serious Eats

Cooking from Thomas Keller's 'Under Pressure'

@GoodEaterKenji:
The issue is that in a lot of cases (almost all the fish recipes, and some of the red meat), the recipes in Under Pressure give cooking temperatures higher than what I would assume is the desired core temp, and so the thickness makes a big difference.

@dbcurrie:
This is the PID solution that dikaryon is referring to.

From Recipes

Super Bowl Snacks: Slow-Fried Buffalo Wings

Does anyone know if this could be done in a deep fryer with canola oil?

From Recipes

Super Bowl Snacks: Slow-Fried Buffalo Wings

There are so many goood wings here in Western NY but the best are from a BBQ place that only smokes them then they put the sauce on, they fall apart!!! The best wings around, no guilty feelings not fried.

From Recipes

Super Bowl Snacks: Slow-Fried Buffalo Wings

Thanks! Going to have to give this one a try. Just read a piece where the owner of the Anchor Bar talks about how the secret to their wings is frying them first at °250F to cook the meat and them frying them again at 350°F to finish them.

From Recipes

Super Bowl Snacks: Slow-Fried Buffalo Wings

Not many things sound more appealing to me than simmer in lard for 40 minutes" :) But yeah, confit is pretty and concise.

From Serious Eats: New York

Popcorn Chicken, AKA Chicken Crack, at ViVi Bubble Tea in Chinatown

@ kobetobiko: I agree with you somewhat, but I must say, I love ViVi's and Quickly's (on Grand St.) Bubble Tea equally. If you haven't tried Quickly's, you gotta get over there! My fave: Bubble Milk Green Tea

From Serious Eats

Cooking from Thomas Keller's 'Under Pressure'

Tam, using standard polyethylene plastic bags is dangerous if you approach the temperature at which the plastic melts, which is 195F. The safety of polyethylene plastic use, whether heated or not, is still highly hotly debated. And people have contacted ZIPLOC to ask them, and maybe it's just a CYA response from their lawyers, but they DO NOT recommend using their bags to cook anything at a temperature approaching the softening point of the plastic.

As I said in my comment, if you are heating your water bath on the stove top, the bottom of your stock pot will be much hotter than the water itself above it because that's the place where the metal is being heated by the flame. Just so you know, the temperature of a natural gas flame from a typical stove is about 1900F. If your plastic bag is sitting on the bottom of your pot, you will definitely be running the risk of melting the bag or at least softening the bag, possibly contaminating your food. Use a trivet inside the stock pot to act as a heatsink. Temperatures well below boiling and keeping the bag away from the heating element, whatever it may be, should be ok...

Also, it is a very bad idea to use immersion circulators that were not designed for food use, an even worse idea to use one that was previously used in a lab, especially if you don't know what they were using it for. Here is a good explanation of why.

Is the experience of cooking sous vide so important that you are willing to take stupid risks by using the wrong equipment? I'm fascinated by it, but I sure as hell am not going to buy some random machine off ebay, and cook in an off the shelf baggie that was not designed to do what I'm asking of it. It's kind of like having sex with a prostitute and using an expired condom, if you ask me. Sure, I may have the time of my life, but the risks just ain't worth it. To me. What you do with and put into your body is entirely up to you.

From Serious Eats

Cooking from Thomas Keller's 'Under Pressure'

@PerkyMac, intheyearofthepig, jlbrach, Kerosena, dikaryon: Thanks for the kind words. Cooking with sous vide does bring to mind those halcyon days of chem lab practicals ;).

@ gastronomeg: Indeed! Alinea, The Big Fat Duck Cookbook, and Under Pressure seem to be competing for the same readership. These are all beautiful, expensive, and almost impenetrable books.

@sailordave: We do our more ambitious entertaining at Al's. The kitchen is roughly 100 square feet. We have a length of 6 feet of usable counter space and a folding table set up for appliance-spillover. The immersion circulator sits on top of the folding table; the FoodSaver sits on top of the microwave which sits on top of the folding table. The Vita-Prep is on the floor more often than not. A tight squeeze for sure but it could be worse ... We could be cooking from my kitchen!

The breakdown of big-ticket equipment used in these recipes is roughly:

    Immersion circulator ($300 from eBay)
    FoodSaver (more recently priced around $100)
    Vita-Prep (roughly $500-600)

Groceries ran about $40-60 (the buffer is for the cooking alcohol). Items on the shopping list included octopus, almonds, navel oranges, fennel, fingerling potatoes, basil, bay leaves, rosemary, tarragon, thyme, cilantro, baby watercress, flat leaf parsley, Spanish chorizo, and Pernod. We subbed 2.5 pounds of baby octopus for the Mediterranean/Japanese octopus, and subbed Marcona for green almonds (the latter are only in season in spring).

@dikaryon: The PID type of device you mention is what we use when the larger immersion circulator is in use. For this write-up, we used it to poach fennel. It doesn't actually circulate water in the bath and you can only sous vide items as large as the capacity of your cooking vessel (e.g., rice cooker, crock pot, etc.). It is a reasonable alternative though, especially for people looking to try it all out. We've managed to produce pretty good seafood dishes with it.

@Veron, simon: Noted food scientist Harold McGee discusses the safety of cooking with various plastics on Ruhlman's own post of 'Under Pressure': tests show standard cling film, Saran wrap, and commercial wraps in general aren't likely to release chemicals into foods.

@NCthenNY: You've brought up an interesting point. Very little seasoning is required in sous vide cooking and a little spicing goes a long way. With groceries from the local Wegmans, we've surprised ourselves by cooking dishes rivalling what we've had at some well-regarded restaurants. Though I'm not sure ingredients need to be quite so pristine, flavors are improved with the use of fresh and seasonal ingredients.

@dbcurrie: I like your sense of adventure.

@alwang: Hallo, Handsome.

@passionateeater: Hello, fellow Meat Whore!

@GoodEaterKenji: As Al mentioned, we've learned to be more attentive to thickness, time, and temperature when cooking delicately textured items like seafood. I can't tell you how many dinners through which we've suffered, gnawing on cottony, over-poached fish ...

From Serious Eats

Cooking from Thomas Keller's 'Under Pressure'

I cannot believe you. I simply cannot believe you. You are AMAZING Tam and Tam's Man (Al)!

I just had a heart attack after reading this one (in part, because of your admission of becoming a meat whore), but mostly because you made that grilled octopus from Thomas Keller's Under Pressure.

From Serious Eats: New York

Popcorn Chicken, AKA Chicken Crack, at ViVi Bubble Tea in Chinatown

I PSSSSSSSSSSSTTTTTTTT....
If you want a discount get the VIP card, buy 5 get 1 free and 20 % off
They have some pretty good thick toast *cough* garlic-flavored *cough*, but they are always running out :(

From Serious Eats: New York

Popcorn Chicken, AKA Chicken Crack, at ViVi Bubble Tea in Chinatown

@Zach, Adam, Al: It's obvious we need to start a photo gallery.

@kobetobiko: I agree! People say TenRen's are more tea-ish, but their flavors just aren't that pronounced.

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