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alexcarlson

bread baker, guitar player, preservationist of artifacts of human automotion

I Fell for a Shameless Hussy

Life's too short to take it too seriously. I like that Hard Road to Hoe has the confidence it takes to be a little silly. I'll be keeping an eye out for this.

Shredded Kale Salad with Pine Nuts, Currants, and Parmesan

@Joseph L. - I strongly disagree. Given the proportions of a standard vinaigrette, 2 tablespoons of balsamic would be appropriate for this recipe. Two cups and you'd basically be making vinegar soup.

Holiday Giveaway: The Amazing Thermapen Thermometer

My latest loaf of improvised bread

Fast Food: KFC Chicken Dip'ems

Speaking of chicken chains, I have to say that Popeye's new "sweet heat" and "blackened ranch" sauces are pretty legit as far as fast food sauces go.

Holiday Giveaway: The Amazing Thermapen Thermometer

a loaf of ciabatta

Will Gordon Tries Budweiser's New Project 12

Funny, I live in 63118 - I can actually see the brewery (not to mention smell it) from my back yard - and I've never heard of these. AB is picky about their test markets, and their own back yard ain't usually one of them.

Bottom Shelf Beer: Leinenkugel's New Big Eddy Wee Heavy

@Brianne:

If you think the Sunset Wheat is bad, you've obviously never had the apple-spice abomination from a few years back (maybe they're still making it, I love away from Liene's country a while ago). It was thoroughly wretched. Somebody brought a six pack to a party I threw, and while 5 somehow were consumed, the 6th skulked in the back of my fridge until I moved a couple years later. And I threw it out. I *threw out beer.* That's how bad it was.

The Serious Eats Guide to Tennessee Whiskey

My taste for black label Jack tends to wax and wane - I'm not a hardcore fan, more a Kentucky bourbon palate. But I will say that their distillery tour is worth taking, even accounting for the ironic fact that the distillery is in a dry county, so no sales or tasting can be done on-site.

DIY vs. Buy: Should I Make My Own Spiced Rum?

I had great success with this marginally different recipe (from another SE column) over the holidays.

http://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/2010/11/how-to-make-homemade-spiced-rum.html

I'm not much of a rum drinker, but this version may drag me away from my usual rye whisky, at least for a change of pace.

Definitely DIY this one!

Vegan Mayonnaise

Do the veggies referred to in the article (cooked eggplant, spinach, etc.) swap in directly by weight for the tofu here?

Chickpea Salad with Cumin Vinaigrette

I had to do a little substituting/improvising for lack of a few ingredients on hand, so I can't fully evaluate the recipe, but I can say that the dressing is really nice with chickpeas - and given the success of my substitutions, I'd say this is a rather nice backdrop for a variety of flavors in the same Mediterranean ballpark.

Planked Meatloaf

Sounds great, but what the hell is herb stuffing?

30-Minute Tuscan White Bean Soup

Made a half batch last night (no room for leftovers in the fridge), wound up making another 1/2 batch for lunch today. Killer, straightforward recipe.

(I used spinach since I had it on hand (see previous graf re: overstuffed fridge), and roughly blended the soup prior to adding the spinach - I think that helped keep the texture creamy, and left satisfying chunks of beans and spinach leaves in the bowl.)

30-Minute Tuscan White Bean Soup

@LaurenAZ: I believe Joe is referring to the rosemary leaves, which we're instructed (up in the ingredient list) to chop finely and reserve the stems.

Seriously Delicious Holiday Giveaway: Korin Knife

My favorite knife is honestly the one in my Leatherman, always in my back pocket. That little blade has done more than its fair share of heavy lifting.

Seriously Delicious Holiday Giveaway: The Sriracha Lover's Ultimate Gift Pack

Cold leftover meatloaf sandwich. Magic!

From Behind the Bar: On Whiskey

Old Overcoat is my go-to, always-on-hand American whiskey. Come cooler weather, my bar is usually stocked with McClelland's Islay, too. What can I say, I'm a value drinker (also poor).

Got a Question for The Food Lab? Kenji Will Answer Everything

Kenj (I can call you Kenj, right?),

How are you, man? What's new? How's the new pup working out?

Entirely off the topic of food - consider this an intermezzo - what are your top five favorite records of all time, and, briefly, why? Top five favorite movies? Non-cookbooks (this can include non-instructional but food-related books)? Top five favorite adult beverages?

Anything really outstanding you've been wanting to tell us, your loyal readers, about your time at Cook's Illustrated? (Like, is Kimball really as odd as he comes across in his columns?)

Thanks for everything. Food Lab is consistently deeply fascinating and entertaining. It's what got me hooked on Serious Eats, which is now the only food blog I regularly read - and I'm in the industry, so I think that says something.

Now get up and stretch and get back to the tech questions.

-Alex

Drinking the Bottom Shelf: Old Overholt Rye

Big fan of Old Overcoat, I'll take it over Beam Rye. OO is cheaper around here, too. They both make for great mixers, and decent sipping whiskys, especially when you're ruining your palate with a cigar anyway.

From Behind the Bar: In Defense of the Free Pour

I'm a bread baker. I live by my scale. But after making a few tens of thousands of pounds of dough, I've learned to trust myself more. I defer to my senses and my experience to finagle each batch of dough to the closest approximation of perfection that's possible

I agree with Kenji: the Jigger Brigade has probably done a lot to raise the tide for cocktails in general. And on the rare occasions that I feel like a cocktail involving more than two ingredients of less than 1/8 oz. each, by all means, break out the jigger.

But when I order from the Canon and I see a jigger deployed, I get a little disheartened, if not the slightest bit distrustful.

Time for a Drink: (Not Exactly A) Painkiller

Hey, I have all of that special equipment on hand! (On the advice of The Good Dr., I never imbibe without legal counsel present, just in case. So I moved in with mine.)

Goodbye, Dumpling

Add mine to the outpouring of sympathy, support and well-wishes, Kenji. As someone who's lost too many dogs in his life, I know too well that it's a terrible feeling. Just remember that his time on Earth was better for having you in his life.

Hang in there, man.

Sunday Brunch: Steak Tartare

For those too squeamish to venture into raw beef: get to know your farmers, folks. Trust the source, trust the product. This is the penultimate* vote of confidence in your meat.

*Ultimate (for me) being raw chicken. I have drinks with my chicken farmer and trust him like family, but I still can't bring myself to that.

Morning Playlist: Our 12 Favorite Songs About Coffee

"Coffee" by AWOL - a third wave ska classic, at least in my mind.

Ah, youth.

Drinking the Bottom Shelf: American Regional Lagers

"Do they drink anything noteworthy where you're from? If so, got any room on your futon?"

Yes and yes.

It's Stag down here in St. Louis and Southern IL. Lawnmower (or dive bar) beer at its finest. But dammit, it was good enough for my granddad, it's good enough for me.

Even has it's own Facebook group: The St. Louis Stag Beer Appreciation Society. (Full disclosure: I started it.)

Just harvested 40 quarts of green tomatoes - now what?

It was a weird summer here in St. Louis, and among other anomalies, our tomato plants went crazy, but the fruit refused to ripen. So, facing a solid week of frosts, I pulled up the boxes today and salvaged as much as possible. Now, like the title says, I have about 40 qt. of green tomatoes and I'm short on ideas.

Pickling/canning is an obvious one, and I'm thinking about making up a batch of green chili and subbing the tomatillos for green tomatoes.

Any other thoughts?

Five-Spice Fried Calamari with Sesame and Lime

Calamari is like an upmarket version of fish sticks. It's both comforting and slightly elevated. A lot of people get nervous about frying, or about seafood in general, but fried seafood is one of the easiest things you can make. Here, strips and tentacles are coated in a Chinese five-spice powder and flour dusting, and fried in two minutes until golden and crisp. Tossed with scallions, cilantro, and lime, these calamari are exotic, quick, fresh, and totally hit the spot. More

Dinner Tonight: World's Easiest Falafel and Tzatziki (via Food52)

The only real prep required for this dish is to soak the chickpeas the night before and let them dry the next day. Other than that, it really is the world's easiest falafel and tzatziki. The falafels come out crisp and piping hot, which is tempered by the cooling effects of the cucumber and yoghurt in the tzatziki. Served with a warm pita, it's time to create the perfect little dinner pocket. More

Dinner Tonight: Linguine with Heirloom Tomato, Capers, Anchovies, and Chile

This Michael Symon recipe from Live to Cook is the kind of pasta dish I adore. Namely because the sauce is cooked quickly, using a mix of fresh, in-season produce and salty cured products. When the pasta is done cooking, it's tossed right into the pan with the sauce, so that each bite is coated with the flavorful mixture. It actually comes off something like a mix between a funky puttanesca and a fiery all'amatriciana. More

DIY Gin

When it comes down to it, gin is basically a neutral spirit flavored with juniper berries and a bunch of other stuff. So while it might seem like putting a bunch of berries and herbs in vodka couldn't possibly result in a drinkable gin, you definitely can make a gin just as complex and delicious as what you'll find at the liquor store. More

Chickpea, Coconut, and Cashew Curry

When I'm saying to myself, "What would my wife want for dinner?," the answer, more often than not, is chickpeas. And I'm not talking fancy, soaked overnight, simmered in flavorful liquid, carefully cooked chickpeas; I'm talking chickpeas drained out of a can and used as the base for a quick dish. This 30-minute curry is intense with garam masala and ginger, cooled by coconut milk and ground toasted cashews. More

Dinner Tonight: Seared Scallops with Spring Onion and Tarragon Cream (via Food52)

Seafood in the summer is great because it's quick to cook (limiting time over a hot stove) and doesn't leave you feeling weighted down. This recipe from Food52 takes seared scallops and adds a fresh spring onion and tarragon cream to the equation. The result is a sweet scallop that's balanced by an herby and fresh cream sauce. It's easy to cook and looks stunning on the plate. More

Standing Room Only: Barcito

After I downed my second glass of cider, reckless thoughts fired through my mind. Had I made a mistake by skipping the escalivada pinxto? What about the meatballs with hazelnut romesco? And considering there were fresh oysters being shucked nearby, wasn't it my duty to try them? Which is to say, Barcito isn't a traditional stand—or at least not one that I'm used to visiting for this column. More

Sauced: Ranch

It would be remiss of me to leave Ranch out of Sauced any longer. Ranch has always been a little heavy-handed for me. Unless I had a reason to drown the flavor of whatever I was eating, I rarely dipped into it. This homemade version, on the other hand, strikes a mellower tone with creamy, rich buttermilk and fresh parsley, chives, and dill. More

Grilled Coq au Vin

A barbecue sauce made from all the flavors of coq au vin: deep Burgundy wine, earthy mushrooms, sweet onions, and woodsy herbs, caramelized and grilled onto juicy, bone-in chicken. Stew hits summer! More