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J.W. Hamner

Engineer by day and amateur home cook/food photographer by night.

  • Website
  • Location: Cambridge, MA
  • Favorite foods: Cassoulet, kimchi, Neapolitan pizza

Best New Italian in Boston Area: Giulia in Cambridge, MA

@yoadrienne1 Well I don't know about her, but I have and agree it's great. I walked by Guilia recently, noticed that it was finally open, and looked at the menu but haven't eaten there yet... perhaps this post will spur us to action.

The Ramen Rater's Top 10 Instant Noodles of 2013

I've only had #8 and #6 on this list, so I'm not sure I'm qualified to judge... but Sun Noodle's ramen is my favorite. Granted, they need to be refrigerated and only last a couple of weeks but the noodle quality is vastly superior to any dried ramen I've tasted and it takes the same amount of time to cook.

Sauced: Ancho-Raisin Sauce

I'd call it a mole, but I guess there is no thickener like nuts or tortillas.

Portland, ME: The Healthier Side of Duckfat

I know it sort of defeats the purpose of a restaurant called Duckfat but I wish they offered vegetarian fries too... else it's a bit of a challenge to convince my vegetarian wife that it's worth a visit even though they have other veggie options when we are visiting Portland.

The Food Lab: The Crabbiest Crab Cakes

@cathycatfish:

I would not denigrate a dungeness crab cake since I have never had one (nor dungeness crab at all - I am in fact very curious about them), but it seems you are dismissing the Maryland style without ever having tried it (correct me if I'm wrong). I will, however, freely and vehemently denigrate the crab croquettes that get labeled as crab cakes in East Coast restaurants north of Maryland. I have had a ton of these and feel quite able to judge them as inherently lacking. Are there people who have had both a traditional Maryland style crab cake and a breaded crab heresy and still prefer the croquette presentation? I suppose it is possible, but I have yet to meet that person.

@J. Kenji-Lopez Alt:

You make a fair point about the hyper-localization... but fresh picked crab meat is hard to get most places, regardless as to whether you want jumbo lump or are ok with just lump backfin. Making a true Maryland style crab cake simply requires you to accept jumbo lump or nothing.

Obviously we are talking about matters of opinion... I was just using hyperbole (which I believe you are well and familiar with) to state that I firmly believe that no breaded crab cake (even just on one side) would ever beat a Faidley's/G&M crab cake in any fair taste test. Clearly awards given by Marylanders to people who make Maryland crab cakes is not a definitive answer to this, but the fact that nobody will ever ask you "Where is the best place in town to get one of those wonderful breaded New England style crab patties?" is telling I think. People who visit Maryland pretty much universally want to have a crab cake while they are there... this suggests some competence in making the dish. Of course people can like whatever they want, but if somebody tells you that McDonald's makes the best hamburger (especially without having another kind - which I suspect is analogous to the amount of experience many commenters have with a Maryland style crab cake) you might suggest this is objectively not true and point to taste tests or restaurant ratings or whatever. Or maybe you wouldn't care that they were missing a wider world of hamburger enjoyment and accept that taste is a subjective thing. To each their own I guess.

As to the crab cake... I agree with your seasoning preferences, but I like a little filler (specifically crushed saltines) in my crab cakes to help hold things together. As long as you are using jumbo lump the crab flavor should shine through quite well.

The Food Lab: The Crabbiest Crab Cakes

@cathycatfish

People from Philly don't know how to make a crab cake any better than those from NYC or Boston. You will however find good examples at the Delaware beaches, which is pretty close geographically speaking.

The Food Lab: The Crabbiest Crab Cakes

@Hammy: Calling someone childish is more insulting than anything anyone else has said here. You should look in the mirror in regards to your own rhetoric.

The Food Lab: The Crabbiest Crab Cakes

OK, you want constructive and less aggressive. Here is an example of what my vision as to what a true Maryland (and yes, therefore "best") crab cake should look like:

http://www.alexandracooks.com/2012/07/10/maryland-crab-cakes/

Though I would use saltines instead of panko (though I've never tried panko so that might be worth a shot) and put an egg in to help it bind. Also wouldn't use tarragon mayo, and would probably go with Worcestershire, Dijon, and Tabasco as the seasoning. Melted butter is brushed on and then they are broiled.

The Food Lab: The Crabbiest Crab Cakes

@XXDavidsonXX: Please find me an award winning breaded crab cake and we'll talk "subjective".

The Food Lab: The Crabbiest Crab Cakes

@ J. Kenji Lopez-Alt: Honestly it seems like you need to relax a bit. There haven't been any personal attacks... or even cursing... just spirited discussion.

Crab cakes are about as serious a cancer to most Marylanders... the same which could be said about Texans and brisket... or North Carolinians and pulled pork. Or whatever your local signature dish is. I don't see why you wouldn't expect a reaction (possibly negative!) when you claim to be making the "best" version of one of those.

The Food Lab: The Crabbiest Crab Cakes

@motease: No you are correct. They both use either saltines or some other starch to bind... I'm talking about coating the *outside* with bread crumbs... which just isn't done and is a terrible, terrible thing to do to innocent crab meat.

The Food Lab: The Crabbiest Crab Cakes

@ShadowoftheSun: Have you ever had a crab cake from Faidley's or G&M in Maryland? Or simply had a traditional Maryland Crab Cake somewhere around the Chesapeake Bay like Virginia or Delaware? These crab cakes have no bread crumb coating. This style is universally acclaimed as the best crab cake you can find. I doubt you will find an "award winning crab cake" that has a bread crumb coating, but if you can please post the link. There is a reason why when Legal Seafood opened up in Baltimore's Inner Harbor that they stopped breading their crab cakes... because people knew better!

As far as I'm concerned that is rock solid "objective" criteria in regards to the how a bread crumb coating ruins a crab cake. But hey, maybe you and Kenji are right and the entire Chesapeake Bay region doesn't have any clue as to how to make "the best" crab cake. Maybe they never thought about putting bread crumbs on their and needed Kenji here to show them the light.

Or maybe not... and maybe some recipes already are perfect and can't be improved upon.

The Food Lab: The Crabbiest Crab Cakes

@ShadowoftheSun:

Also, as he said: don't use the word 'objectively' when referring to an opinion. It's stupid.

Right, so it's simply a matter of opinion as to whether or not McDonald's makes the best hamburger in the world.

I'm sorry I didn't realize the Serious Eats comment policy had changed to only allow fawning adoration.

The Food Lab: The Crabbiest Crab Cakes

Look people... Kenji calls it "the best possible crab cake out there" (in bold no less) and thus it should be open to criticism on those grounds for those of us who think it looks to be very very far from the best.

The Food Lab: The Crabbiest Crab Cakes

All I know is that the best crab cakes in the world are not breaded (see Faidley's or G&M), and I've had a ton of breaded crab cakes up here in New England and have yet to have one that wasn't lame.

Breading a crab cake is objectively a terrible idea. It's "pure" because that's the way it should be done unless you want to make an inferior product.

The Food Lab: The Crabbiest Crab Cakes

Lost me with the bread crumbs. Sacrilege.

The Food Lab: 61-Day Dry-Aged, Sous-Vide, Torched-and-Seared Bone-in Ribeyes (AKA The Ultimate Steak)

So not to be a wimp or anything... but I guess we don't have to worry about starting a grease fire by using a propane torch on fat/oil? Don't have any experience with blowtorches but that was my first thought when I saw the picture of firing that thing directly into the pan.

Grilling: Duck Pastrami

Since I don't have a smoker do you think I could just make, essentially, corned duck breast by doing the breasts sous vide after the brine?

Behind the Scenes of Slurping Turtle's Housemade Ramen Noodles in Chicago

Pretty cool. Those look to be relatively straight noodles... more like spaghetti than the ramen I get... is that true? If so, how do you get the ones with more of a kink? A different attachment or something else?

Only One Beer For Life: What Would You Pick?

To keep from going into the poorhouse it has to be an American beer... big enough for fun but not too big to enjoy on a weeknight... not to heavy for summer months and not too light to as to feel insipid in winter.

Allagash White is a good choice, but I'll go with Dogfish Head Raison d'Etre. I know a lot of people hate it, but it is one of my faves... super smooth and very drinkable.

The Food Lab's Complete Guide to Dry-Aging Beef at Home

Not something I'll likely ever do but an interesting read nonetheless!

What is the most expensive/least used tool in your kitchen?

Waffle iron. Bought it to make my girlfriend vegan waffles for her birthday and never used it again.

In addition... and this will be controversial in these parts I imagine, but I also never use a cast iron skillet and dutch oven that I bought early on when I was learning to cook. I understand that many swear by them... and I appreciate the low cost... but the idea that you can learn to cook at the same time you learn how to properly care for cast iron cookware is insanity perpetrated by overachievers or something. Regardless, now they gather dust because once I got into cooking enough I simply bought *enameled* cast iron, so I had the benefits without the bother.

The Best French Bread Pizza

I suggest adding a "(1 Tablespoon reserved)" or something to the olive oil ingredient for those with poor reading comprehension who get to the end and say what "remaining tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil!?"

I'm bringing this up for... uhm... a friend. ;)

The Pizza Lab: The Best French Bread Pizza

I wasn't so excited about this one when you previewed it on twitter... as I pretty much associate french bread pizza with the microwave frozen pizza of my culinarily misspent youth, so I don't really have any warm and fuzzy nostalgia to make me yearn to try this recipe. But you make a good point about it being as quick as a frozen pizza though (something I make a disturbing amount)... and super market "french bread" is something I can pick up on the way home easily enough. Maybe I'll make it tonight, since it was probably going to be take-out or an aforementioned frozen pizza anyway.

Crispy Buffalo Fried Cauliflower (Vegan)

Made this last night and also had some issues with it not really staying crispy once sauced. Some pieces did and some didn't. Besides frying longer, is it possible that the batter I made was too thin?

Otherwise still really liked it.

Lunch Box: Make-Ahead Peanut Soba Noodles with Tofu and Pickled Bean Sprouts

Unless you are a robot, allergic to nuts, or hate fun, chances are you, like me, have a giant soft spot for peanut noodles. The sauce is a balance of salty, sharp, sweet and rich, and just hovering between liquid and paste for the perfect amount of "noodle cling". I threw in some easy pickled bean sprouts for kick (and crunch) and some simply seared tofu. More

The Vegan Experience: Two Steamed Bun Variations To Knock Your Socks Off

Chinese-style steamed buns are not new by any stretch, but stuffing them with interesting, carefully-selected ingredients and turning them into little composed sandwiches suddenly became a thing about a decade ago when first Momofuku then shortly after everybody else started serving them as (overpriced) appetizers all over town. It's a great idea that I felt deserved a bit of vegan-ification. More

The Vegan Experience: The Foothills Of Mount Ramen (I.e. Vegan Udon)

I decided before I even began this year's Vegan Experience that an excellent vegan ramen broth would be one of my ultimate goals. But one does not simply jump into ramen. Suffice it to say, ramen is a high mountain to climb. I decided that I'd start by coming up with a vegan udon broth that could compete with the real thing in terms of flavor potency and sheer deliciousness. More

Vegetarian Mapo Tofu with Peas

"Pock-Marked Mother's Bean Curd," the translation of the name mapo tofu, gives a good indication of the homey, comforting nature of this dish, which tastes just like something Mom would make, if Mom were Chinese and an excellent cook. This vegetarian version omits the beef or pork, instead adding in some bright green peas. More

The Pizza Lab: Foolproof Pan Pizza

I've got a confession to make: I love pan pizza. I'm not talking deep-dish Chicago-style with its crisp crust and rivers of cheese and sauce, I'm talking thick-crusted, fried-on-the-bottom, puffy, cheesy, focaccia-esque pan pizza, dripping with strings of mozzarella and robust sauce. If only pizza that good were also easy to make at home. Well here's the good news: It is. This is the easiest pizza you will ever make. Seriously. All it takes is a few basic kitchen essentials, some simple ingredients, and a bit of patience. More

The Food Lab Lite: Kale Caesar Salad

The Kale Caesar Salad is a natural extension of the marinated kale salad, in which kale leaves are roughly chopped, massaged with dressing and salt, then allowed to sit. The beautiful thing about these salads is that kale is robust enough that it stays crisp and crunchy even after sitting dressed in the fridge for days. You can make it once and eat it over the course of a few days with no loss in quality. Caesar dressing, which naturally pairs with slightly bitter, very crunchy lettuces, seems like a perfect partner in crime. And it is. More

Vegetarian: Revueltos (Creamy Spanish-Style Scrambled Eggs)

I come to you today with the perfect solution to the leftover cooked veggies conundrum: revueltos. Sounds fancy, right? But they're not. Revueltos are simply creamy, barely-set Spanish-style scrambled eggs that are cooked in a warm (not hot) pan with a) good-quality olive oil; b) tons of garlic; and c) pretty much any neutrally-flavored leftovers you've got. After cooking the eggs slowly, scraping the pan constantly to break up the curds that form, you'll be left with with custardy eggs that have a velvety, super-soft texture. More

The Food Lab: The Best Korean Fried Chicken

When it comes to frying chicken nobody—and I mean nobody—does it better than the Koreans. My apologies to all you Southerners. Korean fried chicken (or KFC as those in the know call it) differs vastly from American-style fried chicken. Rather than the craggly, crusty, significant coating you'd get on say, a Chick-Fil-A sandwich or a Popeye's drumstick, you get an eggshell-thin, ultra-crisp crust around a drippingly juicy interior. The end goal is clear, but the road to get there required a bit of bushwhacking. More

Ratatouille Tacos

Turns out that most of the ingredients in ratatouille came from the New World, which means that before any French cook got his or her hands on the raw ingredients, they were probably served with corn tortillas. And thus was born the idea of ratatouille tacos. More

James Peterson's French-Style Vegetable Stew

This stew takes advantage of more than a few cooking techniques (blanching, boiling, steaming, glazing, and simmering); a good challenge for anyone wanting to test their skills. Each vegetable is precisely cut, cooked, and assembled to be as dramatic as possible. The method(s) works; the final stew is a celebration of vegetation. More

Dinner Tonight: Rick Bayless's Zucchini, Corn, and Poblano Tacos

You don't come across vegetarian tacos all that often, but in the rare instances in which you do, they're often wonderful. For a long time my go-to was another Rick Bayless recipe involving swiss chard and caramelized onions; I'd put them in front of any meat eater any day. Searching for a recipe using corn and zucchini, I came across this second Bayless recipe, which is similarly excellent. More