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Hershey's to Close Scharffen Berger Plant in Berkeley; Robert Steinberg Spinning in Grave
Nooooooooooo! What a sad day for chocolate! I'm stocking up on Scharffen Berger...
Cooking from Thomas Keller's 'Under Pressure'
I've always wanted to try sous vide but no one gives me a straight answer about cooking in plastic. Is it safe?
Blogwatch: Sassy Radish's Red Velvet Cupcakes with Cream Cheese Frosting
Purists will say that red velvet really needs that whole bottle of food coloring and cream cheese frosting. And only Sauer red food coloring please for any place south of the Mason Dixon Line.
But I oughta try that gel paste...looks like less mess. Whenever I have an order for these I really , really need to be careful with that food coloring.
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Trichinosis in Free-Range Pigs: Cause for Concern, or Sloppy Editing and Writing?
In the Philippines, I guess because they feed pigs with almost anything we've always cooked pork to well done. And that's the way i'm going to continue to make it. I think the problem with mass-produced pork here in the U.S. is that they have been bred to almost no taste (too lean) so cooking it well done taste like cardboard. I would love to try the pork from Flying pigs farm...it's on my list...chinese roast pig with their pork belly!
Hershey's to Close Scharffen Berger Plant in Berkeley; Robert Steinberg Spinning in Grave
Nooooooooooo! What a sad day for chocolate! I'm stocking up on Scharffen Berger...
Cooking from Thomas Keller's 'Under Pressure'
I've always wanted to try sous vide but no one gives me a straight answer about cooking in plastic. Is it safe?
Blogwatch: Sassy Radish's Red Velvet Cupcakes with Cream Cheese Frosting
Purists will say that red velvet really needs that whole bottle of food coloring and cream cheese frosting. And only Sauer red food coloring please for any place south of the Mason Dixon Line.
But I oughta try that gel paste...looks like less mess. Whenever I have an order for these I really , really need to be careful with that food coloring.
Tocino: The Filipino 'Bacon' at Isla Pilipina in Chicago
Yum, am missing the tocino with rice, tomato and vinegar...
Snapshots from Asia: Sapodillas, The Potatoes That Grow on Trees
hmmn... chicos...I miss those.
The 14 M.P.H. Beer Cooler
the hubby is going to get a kick out this!
Photo of the Day: Penguin Dumplings
too cute! I love penguins. I wonder what the black part is made of. I think it might be a type of fungus that I have eaten in soups before, I just don't know what the name is.
What's the Best Mac and Cheese Cheese?
cheddar,gruyere, parmesan. And no bacon. Want it plain and simple.
Photo of the Day: Eggs in Peril
You described it perfectly. It is adorable in a weird twisted way....so cute!
Japanese Tea Commercial with Caterpillars
so cute...and funny!
Can I Take Your Picture?
Guilty...but I can't help taking a picture of my big Pork chop at the little owl. It was the best ever!
Baking with Dorie: Daniel Boulud’s Coffee-Cardamom Pots de Crème
I love pots de creme so much I actually have their little pots with lids.
http://kitchenmusings.typepad.com/my_weblog/2006/09/chocolate_pots_.html
Question: Does this mean I can skip the saran wrap and use the lids that came with the pots. I was never sure if it was for decoration or it would actually seal the pot when cooking.
Cognac's Kin
I have a bottle in my pantry but have yet to use it. I was planning to use it on some prune-armagnac dessert. I heard that combination is heavenly.
Serious Sandwiches: Chick-Fil-A's Chick-n-Minis
I love chick-fil-a. My new thing now is order a couple of their strips and have it with white rice. And of course if it is breakfast time , I'll have their chicken minis.
Seriously Delicious Holiday Giveaway: Two Peter Luger Steaks
New york strip - Dry aged. If it isn't dry aged then it's the Rib-eye bar none!
Cook the Book: Duck Confit
The first sign of fall this year , I made a huge batch of duck confit . I've been using different recipes lately and I think I'm nearing the end of my duck confit recipe quest . The last batch I made was a bit tough but had great flavor. I threw them in a cassoulet I made here. I have Tom's book - didn't realize he had a confit recipe in it ...thanks for the info.
Weekend Book Giveaway: 'The Elements of Cooking'
The most important element of cooking is using the finest ingredients. Take for example a steak. If you get the best cut of steak - dry aged. A simple seasoning of salt and pepper beats lesser cuts of meat that has been marinated with a glut of spices.
The Great Baking Chocolate Debate
I'm just relieved that Betty crocker did not win. We used to use Baker's chocolate in our bakery back in the Philippines but there's a bit of harshness in the finish. Scharffen berger definitely gives a smoother chocolatey finish! I'm embarking on a brownie experiment myself based on the recipes I got attending Alice Medrich's class using different percentages of chocolates. I love playing with chocolate!
Step Inside Gérard Mulot's Macaron Factory
I have caught the macaron bug and I can't stop . I've documented some of my experiments here. Now I'm off to make some tea and enjoy Carol's experience at Gerard Mulot's kitchen!
Behind the Scenes of Ciao Bella's Gelato Factory
Yes! Ciao Bella is the best gelato created commercially. In fact I have the 5 quart size of their Tahitian Vanilla! And they have one of the best Pistachio gelatos I have ever tasted!
Photo of the Day: Pi Pie
You just gave me an idea for my math-major hubby. This is so cute!
Cook the Book: Olive Oil and Sherry Pound Cake
I am very interested in the taste of this. Definitely one to try soon. I tried her chestnut pound cake and it was delicious!
The Best Roast Chicken: The Final Acts
The reason we changed our 2 year old oven and hood was because whenever we made Zuni's Roast Chicken we always set off our smoke alarm which scares our four-legged kids. Now with a 900 cfm hood, that is no longer a problem. :) . Here is my own ode to the The Zuni Roast Chicken!
Baking with Dorie: Daniel Boulud’s Coffee-Cardamom Pots de Crème
i just made these over the weekend. SO DELICIOUS! i made two changes: (1) no plastic wrap and (2) i used 3 oz ramekins. they turned out great - although i had some trouble recognizing that they were done!
@ carolyn - i think maybe the milk/cream cooks down some while on the stove. that is how i interpreted what was going on with that extra cup of cream - use it only if you need it. i did not.
i would definitely make this again. i paired it with another recipe from this site: "sicilian pistachio bars". those were also awesome. i cut the bars into long strips and placed them across the top of the ramekins.
Tocino: The Filipino 'Bacon' at Isla Pilipina in Chicago
omg im craving that now thx alot
Hershey's to Close Scharffen Berger Plant in Berkeley; Robert Steinberg Spinning in Grave
It would have suited to have identified a date for the closure. I on April 24, 2009 am about to buy Scharffenberger chocolate, actually would have except I read this first, and would be more inclined to do so if the factor were not closed yet. Now I am uncertain. I agree with anti-Hershey comments. Hershey chocolate is not made in Pennsylvania. It is made in Mexico. That Milton Hershey Foundation is a success "story" is b.s. One does not eat success "stories" in my neighborhood or books either. Mr. Levine probably complained because his history professor asked for dates on examinations. Dates do matter. They even help one buy chocolate.
Trichinosis in Free-Range Pigs: Cause for Concern, or Sloppy Editing and Writing?
just FYi the editors decided to append a note disclosing the funding source of the studies used:
"Editors' Note: April 14, 2009
An Op-Ed article last Friday, about pork, neglected to disclose the
source of the financing for a study finding that free-range pigs were
more likely than confined pigs to test positive for exposure to
certain pathogens. The study was financed by the National Pork Board."
Trichinosis in Free-Range Pigs: Cause for Concern, or Sloppy Editing and Writing?
ed, i thought you might like to see what julie powell has to say: http://juliepowell.blogspot.com/
Trichinosis in Free-Range Pigs: Cause for Concern, or Sloppy Editing and Writing?
I'm with Meat guy -- I shoot for 145 degrees as well. It is still "blush of pink" that way, and still plenty juicy.
Trichinosis in Free-Range Pigs: Cause for Concern, or Sloppy Editing and Writing?
Trichinosis is a pain, literally. the worms live and form cysts in the muscle tissue of the host. And considering that to do that they burrow through your intestines and any other tissues in their way it is not great for your total health. I have worked with people who had gotten infested,and they assured me it is definitely not one of the things you want to put on your bucket list of to do's. If it were harmless, no one would be concerned.
To prevent infestation meat should be cooked to a minimum of 137 degrees farenheit, considereing most people can't or won't calibrate their thermometers, play it safe and go to 145, still rare, if that is what you desire.
Decades ago, when trichinosis was more common USDA gave us two other methods for destroying trichinae in meat.
Method 1 is freezing the meat at -20 degrees farenheit for 40 days, shorter times and higher temperatures may not work, this was known as certified Pork in the meat industry. this is also colder than most home freezers are run at.
The second method refers to dry cured meats. this required the meat to be treated with 3 1/2 percent salt for 40 days to destroy the encysted worms. The actual 40 days started when the product was fully salted, immediately with ground meat, think genoa salami or soppressata, but if it were a dry cured ham, it could take 60 days or longer for the salt to equilibrate to a minimum of 3.5% throughout the ham. That is why dry cured hams age for 4-6 months.
The reality here, is that people really know far less than they should about what they eat and how to prepare it. May people distrust real science for their gut feelings. Others are total cynics, maybe former hippies( oh the hate talk this will generate), who feel the system is out to get them and homogenize them. People, learn the real science, make sane decisions. Just because a Chef or Farmer tells you it won't hurt you to eat rare pork, or you read it on the internet (oh my god that is where I posted this!) doesn't make it 100% true.
Trust me, eating your pork a little dryer (Cooked to 145 to 150 degrees) is far better than trichinosis.
Trichinosis in Free-Range Pigs: Cause for Concern, or Sloppy Editing and Writing?
trichinosis is not caused by a bacteria, it's caused by a parasitic nematode, or roundworm, that forms cysts in host tissue. actually, there are three species of nematode that can cause trichinosis, t. spirialis, t. britovi, and t. nativa. all the fuss made about cooking pork to a higher temperature is because these worms form cysts, which are quite resistant to environmental changes (such as temperature), and note: bacteria do not form cysts. the worms form cysts because they are hoping to get ingested by another animal to continue their life cycle, and they need to be able to resist harsh environments such as stomach acids.
Hershey's to Close Scharffen Berger Plant in Berkeley; Robert Steinberg Spinning in Grave
First of all the man is gone. What was his passion, his business, his life was sold to Hershey Foods. Unlike others I see what Hershey foods contributes to the area in which it is. The Milton Hershey Foundation
http://www.mshersheyfoundation.org/ is as much a success story as Robert Steinberg's story. Milton Hershey built a community there, it is not just a place to buy Hershey Bars and go to the amusement park.
Yes Hershey makes waxy american chocolate.
It sells shitloads of it a year. Every now and then I grab a Reese's cup because I am in the mood for that kind of thing. Just because we are chocolate afficinados does not mean that the average american does not look forward to the work that Hershey's puts forth.
Not everyone is as exacting and concerned with it like we are.
If you want to keep the love of chocolate alive buy Robert Steinberg's book which to me is a must have for all Scharffen Berger fans
http://www.amazon.com/Essence-Chocolate-Recipes-Baking-Cooking/dp/1401302386/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1233294632&sr=1-1
Robert inspired me to use the good chocolate in my baking and I will not see him trashed. Yes he sold his company. He had cancer. I am sure his foremost thought was that his work go on and for his family. Who can tell what goes through the mind of someone who was ill for over 20 years.
Certainly not me. I am much in awe of all his work and contribution to chocolate and as cybele has said the products are not being made in PA.
Hershey is not going to retool.
Hershey's to Close Scharffen Berger Plant in Berkeley; Robert Steinberg Spinning in Grave
Bottom line is, this guy sold the company to a large company.. If he really gave a shit he would have had in the contract that the Factory must remain open..
I doubt this businessman was so naive that he thought Hershey was going to continue in the same direction..
Large company buys small company with a great name.. Large company strips the small company only keeping the name and nothing else..
This is nothing new.
Hershey's to Close Scharffen Berger Plant in Berkeley; Robert Steinberg Spinning in Grave
To those who are talking about hoarding - Scharffen Berger is still being made and will continue to be made. At their Robinson, IL factory. Which is probably what you've been buying for the past few years anyway.
Hershey's to Close Scharffen Berger Plant in Berkeley; Robert Steinberg Spinning in Grave
shoot, i better get out and get me some Scharffen Berger dark chocolate. that stuff keeps me healthy. why would Hersheys do a thing like that?
Hershey's to Close Scharffen Berger Plant in Berkeley; Robert Steinberg Spinning in Grave
like some others who already said this... the cautionary tale is don't sell your company if you don't want to lose control of it.
Hershey's to Close Scharffen Berger Plant in Berkeley; Robert Steinberg Spinning in Grave
Sorry, but my sympathy is ZERO for your dead friend (though tons of sympathy for the employees). Your dead friend sold FOR THE MONEY. Big corporate money, so he got his. If he had "concerns" he should not have sold. Once Hershey took ownership, it was theirs to do with what they wished. They PAID (your dead friend -- ka-ching) for the right.
Hershey's to Close Scharffen Berger Plant in Berkeley; Robert Steinberg Spinning in Grave
This is a real shame but not altogether surprising. I wonder about the fate of Dagoba.
Cook the Book: Duck Confit
Saw this post - I have two duck confit legs in my fridge....don't want to do pizza. What to do?
Quesadillas with shredded duck, fontina and what?
Any other suggestions.
Going on big diet on Monday and have to get my duck confit fix now.
Cooking from Thomas Keller's 'Under Pressure'
Hi Simon,
If what you're trying to say is that sous vide should not be done without a thorough understanding of the principles and the risks, I couldn't agree with you more. I would encourage anyone looking to explore this method to do the appropriate research, and to feel comfortable in their own understanding of what makes various aspects of sous vide safe or unsafe. I've done that due diligence, and it's helped me make decisions on when a particular piece of equipment might be inappropriate, and when it should be fine.
That said, you rightly point out that there are still risks associated with this activity. Anyone interested in sous vide needs to come to a personal decision on whether it's worth those risks, just as you need to make that decision on just about any other activity worth doing, whether it's driving a car, eating a rare steak, or indeed, having sex. For the record, I've reached the same decision on all four of those activities.
Cooking from Thomas Keller's 'Under Pressure'
Tam, using standard polyethylene plastic bags is dangerous if you approach the temperature at which the plastic melts, which is 195F. The safety of polyethylene plastic use, whether heated or not, is still highly hotly debated. And people have contacted ZIPLOC to ask them, and maybe it's just a CYA response from their lawyers, but they DO NOT recommend using their bags to cook anything at a temperature approaching the softening point of the plastic.
As I said in my comment, if you are heating your water bath on the stove top, the bottom of your stock pot will be much hotter than the water itself above it because that's the place where the metal is being heated by the flame. Just so you know, the temperature of a natural gas flame from a typical stove is about 1900F. If your plastic bag is sitting on the bottom of your pot, you will definitely be running the risk of melting the bag or at least softening the bag, possibly contaminating your food. Use a trivet inside the stock pot to act as a heatsink. Temperatures well below boiling and keeping the bag away from the heating element, whatever it may be, should be ok...
Also, it is a very bad idea to use immersion circulators that were not designed for food use, an even worse idea to use one that was previously used in a lab, especially if you don't know what they were using it for. Here is a good explanation of why.
Is the experience of cooking sous vide so important that you are willing to take stupid risks by using the wrong equipment? I'm fascinated by it, but I sure as hell am not going to buy some random machine off ebay, and cook in an off the shelf baggie that was not designed to do what I'm asking of it. It's kind of like having sex with a prostitute and using an expired condom, if you ask me. Sure, I may have the time of my life, but the risks just ain't worth it. To me. What you do with and put into your body is entirely up to you.
Cooking from Thomas Keller's 'Under Pressure'
@PerkyMac, intheyearofthepig, jlbrach, Kerosena, dikaryon: Thanks for the kind words. Cooking with sous vide does bring to mind those halcyon days of chem lab practicals ;).
@ gastronomeg: Indeed! Alinea, The Big Fat Duck Cookbook, and Under Pressure seem to be competing for the same readership. These are all beautiful, expensive, and almost impenetrable books.
@sailordave: We do our more ambitious entertaining at Al's. The kitchen is roughly 100 square feet. We have a length of 6 feet of usable counter space and a folding table set up for appliance-spillover. The immersion circulator sits on top of the folding table; the FoodSaver sits on top of the microwave which sits on top of the folding table. The Vita-Prep is on the floor more often than not. A tight squeeze for sure but it could be worse ... We could be cooking from my kitchen!
The breakdown of big-ticket equipment used in these recipes is roughly:
- Immersion circulator ($300 from eBay)
FoodSaver (more recently priced around $100)
Vita-Prep (roughly $500-600)
Groceries ran about $40-60 (the buffer is for the cooking alcohol). Items on the shopping list included octopus, almonds, navel oranges, fennel, fingerling potatoes, basil, bay leaves, rosemary, tarragon, thyme, cilantro, baby watercress, flat leaf parsley, Spanish chorizo, and Pernod. We subbed 2.5 pounds of baby octopus for the Mediterranean/Japanese octopus, and subbed Marcona for green almonds (the latter are only in season in spring).
@dikaryon: The PID type of device you mention is what we use when the larger immersion circulator is in use. For this write-up, we used it to poach fennel. It doesn't actually circulate water in the bath and you can only sous vide items as large as the capacity of your cooking vessel (e.g., rice cooker, crock pot, etc.). It is a reasonable alternative though, especially for people looking to try it all out. We've managed to produce pretty good seafood dishes with it.
@Veron, simon: Noted food scientist Harold McGee discusses the safety of cooking with various plastics on Ruhlman's own post of 'Under Pressure': tests show standard cling film, Saran wrap, and commercial wraps in general aren't likely to release chemicals into foods.
@NCthenNY: You've brought up an interesting point. Very little seasoning is required in sous vide cooking and a little spicing goes a long way. With groceries from the local Wegmans, we've surprised ourselves by cooking dishes rivalling what we've had at some well-regarded restaurants. Though I'm not sure ingredients need to be quite so pristine, flavors are improved with the use of fresh and seasonal ingredients.
@dbcurrie: I like your sense of adventure.
@alwang: Hallo, Handsome.
@passionateeater: Hello, fellow Meat Whore!
@GoodEaterKenji: As Al mentioned, we've learned to be more attentive to thickness, time, and temperature when cooking delicately textured items like seafood. I can't tell you how many dinners through which we've suffered, gnawing on cottony, over-poached fish ...
Cooking from Thomas Keller's 'Under Pressure'
I cannot believe you. I simply cannot believe you. You are AMAZING Tam and Tam's Man (Al)!
I just had a heart attack after reading this one (in part, because of your admission of becoming a meat whore), but mostly because you made that grilled octopus from Thomas Keller's Under Pressure.
Cooking from Thomas Keller's 'Under Pressure'
@GoodEaterKenji:
The issue is that in a lot of cases (almost all the fish recipes, and some of the red meat), the recipes in Under Pressure give cooking temperatures higher than what I would assume is the desired core temp, and so the thickness makes a big difference.
@dbcurrie:
This is the PID solution that dikaryon is referring to.
Cooking from Thomas Keller's 'Under Pressure'
@Tam:
"In general, the recipes also fail to define the desired volume or thickness of ingredients, which is particularly important for sous vide."
Actually, sous-vide is the one form of cooking where volume and thickness matter the least. That's the beauty of sous-vide. Since in most cases, you're cooking food in a water bath at the temperature that you want to cook the food to (IE, take a steak to an internal temperature of 125 degrees by cooking it in a 125 degree water bath), it's impossible to overcook. You can cook the world's thickest steak to an internal temperature of 125 degrees, and the outer layers will also be at 125 degrees, vs. any other cooking method, where by the time the center reaches 125, the exterior is overcooked. Additionally, you can leave it in there as long as you want after it's come ti 125, and it won't ever overcook.
Cooking from Thomas Keller's 'Under Pressure'
Veron, it depends what kind of plastic you're using. There are thousands of different kinds of plastic, and most of them are not designed for food use. Of the ones that are, most are designed to handle specific conditions. Ziploc bags, for instance, are perfectly safe for storing foods, but are not designed to be heated. Many people do ghetto sous vide at home in ziploc bags or in plastic wrap and it's a very very bad idea. The more heat the worse it is, and especially if you are applying heat for long periods of time. Also, if you're simply throwing the bag into a pot of water, the bottom of which is sitting over a burner, the bag where it contacts the metal is at a much higher temp than the rest of the water. You should be using a double boiler or a trivet inside the pan to keep the plastic off the heat source. Cooking in plastic bags should be done specifically in ones that were designed for that purpose. This is not a cooking technique that should be done with cheap and inappropriate materials. It's kind of one of those "don't try this at home unless you are a trained professional" kind of things. There is also a risk of bacterial contamination if the bags are not sealed properly and for certain recipes the cooking temperatures are not high enough to kill them. So in short, sous vide is awesome, but it's very advanced and expensive and not to be taken lightly.
Tocino: The Filipino 'Bacon' at Isla Pilipina in Chicago
that's the ultimate breakfast food.... nope, as a filipino, i can assure you as well that there is no foie in the tocino... (half of the filipinos would not even know what that word means.)...
Tocino: The Filipino 'Bacon' at Isla Pilipina in Chicago
tocino is never made with lechon sauce, cookie, there's no liver in it at all. pork tocino or beef tapa with garlic fried rice and eggs are the best breakfasts ever. about longanisa, i love the ones that come from alaminos.
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Website: http://kitchenmusings.typepad.com
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Favorite foods: chocolate,duck,pork,beef
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In the Philippines, I guess because they feed pigs with almost anything we've always cooked pork to well done. And that's the way i'm going to continue to make it. I think the problem with mass-produced pork here in the U.S. is that they have been bred to almost no taste (too lean) so cooking it well done taste like cardboard. I would love to try the pork from Flying pigs farm...it's on my list...chinese roast pig with their pork belly!