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From A Hamburger Today

The Burger Lab: Mastering the Art of Burger Blending with Eight Cuts of Beef

You are an answer to prayer! I've been wanting someone to conduct this kind of investigation for the longest time. Just last week I was mulling over for the hundreth time the alleged Shake Shack formula of 50% sirlon, 25% chuck and and 25% brisket -- and resorting to algebra to solve for quantities of each in order to attain a ratio of 80% meat to 20% fat. Algebra!! Was thinking, "Why doesn't somebody work on this and write it down!" Then yesterday, I found myself in the supermarket, staring at oxtail and wondering if it could lend its ineffable charm to a burger!! You are in the right time and place, and will probably achieve sainthood.

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Serious Heat: Cajun Deep-Fried Ribs

Deep-fried ribs are a popular appetizer at Irving Mill in New York. The restaurant has recently started serving lunch.

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From A Hamburger Today

The Burger Lab: Mastering the Art of Burger Blending with Eight Cuts of Beef

You are an answer to prayer! I've been wanting someone to conduct this kind of investigation for the longest time. Just last week I was mulling over for the hundreth time the alleged Shake Shack formula of 50% sirlon, 25% chuck and and 25% brisket -- and resorting to algebra to solve for quantities of each in order to attain a ratio of 80% meat to 20% fat. Algebra!! Was thinking, "Why doesn't somebody work on this and write it down!" Then yesterday, I found myself in the supermarket, staring at oxtail and wondering if it could lend its ineffable charm to a burger!! You are in the right time and place, and will probably achieve sainthood.

From Recipes

Serious Heat: Cajun Deep-Fried Ribs

Deep-fried ribs are a popular appetizer at Irving Mill in New York. The restaurant has recently started serving lunch.

From Talk

Perfect Onion rings recipe?

Try this recipe from Saveur. The unexpected ingredient in the coating is corn starch -- makes them nice and crispy.

http://www.saveur.com/article/food/Onion-Rings-

From A Hamburger Today

Burger Shoppe; Financial District, Manhattan

I've been three times and had a different experience each time. They need an experienced manager to develop routines and set standards. It's all very "loose". Incredible potential, charming decor, and the upstairs bar is a treasure.

From A Hamburger Today

The Burger Lab: Mastering the Art of Burger Blending with Eight Cuts of Beef

okay i did actually try this and it was even more of a hassle than i expected dealing with the ox tail. maybe i'm just a terrible butcher but this blend definitely wasn't worth the time. oh well.

From A Hamburger Today

The Burger Lab: Mastering the Art of Burger Blending with Eight Cuts of Beef

@HerbyN Beef shank might be an interesting cut to try. In my experience, it's less fatty than oxtail, so you'd probably need to add another fat in there somehow. They'd certainly be easier to butcher. I should have thought to try them, but the butcher didn't have any when I went shopping. But, the quest for the perfect burger is a never ending one, so I see another grinding party coming up!

@CharlesAssam That's a big question, and I think it really depends on what you're going for. If it's an all-American, thin, griddled burger, gooey melted American cheese is a must - it adds texture and fat to the mix. If you're going for a thick, grilled, fancy-pants burger, then the sky is the limit. The proper blending of meat is something that I think helps all types of burgers, thin and thick, grilled or griddled. The right cheese, on the other hand, is defined more by the exact situation at hand.

From A Hamburger Today

The Burger Lab: Mastering the Art of Burger Blending with Eight Cuts of Beef

Great Article. One Question, what role does cheese play and What is the best cheese to use on the best burgers? any ideas would be welcome.

From A Hamburger Today

The Burger Lab: Mastering the Art of Burger Blending with Eight Cuts of Beef

what might be the pros and cons of substituting center cut beef shank meat for the oxtail meat? i think the shanks might be easier to handle and separate from the bone and the composition and characteristics of that cut should be relatively similar to the oxtail... thoughts?

From A Hamburger Today

The Burger Lab: Mastering the Art of Burger Blending with Eight Cuts of Beef

Amazing, can't wait to try this recipe. And such great info. I've had chuck, lamb, pork burgers that were really good. 8oz Burger bar in LA makes theirs out of sirloin, tri-tip, and short rib which is fantastic as well, but it's not quite as firm as I would like.

From A Hamburger Today

A Classic Los Angeles Burger with a Perfect Bun at Cassell's

I first wrote about Cassell's in the L.A. Times Sunday Magazine, West, callling it "best in city." I wrote two more pieces, one in Oui, still posted on the wall, and in Rolling Stone (of all places). I spent a lot of time with Al Cassell, and know a thing or two about the history of the place. He started it after WW2 on Wilshire, across from the wonderful building then known as Bullock's Wilshire (now home to Southwestern Law School). When the landlord made it impossible for him to stay, he moved to the SE corner of 6th and Berendo. It was as bare-bones an operation as it is today in terms of decor: Al said that after his experience with that landlord, he would never invest in furnishings: all he prized was his double broiler (and his food). It was then known as Cassell's Patio, because Al made a deal with the apartment building next door to set up tables on a little patio on the apartment building's south side.

About 20 years ago, a family of butchers made Al (who was pretty tired of arriving at 5:30 to trim and grind the meat, make the mayo, etc.) what sounded like a great offer: they'd maintain standards, and expand, and he would share in profits from the new locations. Well, they started serving fries. (When I asked Al why he didn't, he said, "It isn't my picture." He saw himself as a painter.) Worse, they didn't cut him in on any revenue from the other locations (I remember one on Wilshire, in the mini-mall at Crescent Heights). Al got the place back...and sold to Koreans. They kept the standards pretty well at first...but expanded the menu to turkey burgers and veggie burgers.

There was a slide, I think, but at my most recent (albeit infrequent) visit, younger Koreans were at the register, and the quality was clearly back.

About what Al did and didn't make. Yes, mayo (!), yes lemonade (from Grade A lemons, he pointed out), yes potato salad (putting in a liberal dose of Colman's English mustard powder), yes a ketchup relish (but not ketchup itself -- that was Heinz), and yes, Roquefort salad dressing (using real Roquefort cheese).

If the "best days" seem behind Cassell's, in part that's a demographic issue: way back when, the mid-Wilshire area was filled at lunchtime with middle-class shoppers and office workers.

Is Cassell's burger the "best in the world"? Now that upscale luxe restaurants are serving up Kobe beef burgers, I guess not, although I believe that for a "commercial" burger, Cassell's is still in the money in any best burger race.

From A Hamburger Today

A Classic Los Angeles Burger with a Perfect Bun at Cassell's

I used to go there in the '80s, and Mr. Cassell was still there, it was THE best burger in LA, and at that time besides the mayonaise being made from scratch, so was the ketchup and mustard. The potato salad was killer and they also had a fantastic grilled ham and cheese sandwich on the thinnest rye bread. Haven't been there since the change in ownership, after reading your article and the comments, will try it again.

From Recipes

Serious Heat: Cajun Deep-Fried Ribs

my mother in law makes fried ribs. i sneered at the very idea ...until I tasted one. as the caption goes "what doesn't benefit frm being deep fried" so even if you don't use cajun seaso9ning try frying a rib. season with pepper, garlic powder and seasoning salt, dredge in flour and fry. Good Eats!!!

From A Hamburger Today

A Classic Los Angeles Burger with a Perfect Bun at Cassell's

Cassell's......Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.....but it has been years since I was there. They had not even moved from 6th to 6th the last time I was there.

Never had a bad burger there. Homemade lemonade! Great! That potato salad! Great! And they had other sandwiches, too. The egg salad was colossal and good!

I worked around the corner and down the street at a record distributor who would treat us to lunch now and then. One day they ordered maybe 50 burgers, then there was an in-house dispute and 'we' called them back and canceled the order! They never delivered to us again.

The condiments were delicious.

I recall a tall black guy behind the 'counter' who was fairly insistent that you read the sign and order in the manner they wanted you to.

I was seeing a little 5"1/2' cutie at the time, slim and trim, but could this girl eat! She ordered the egg salad sand and almost passed out with joy.

Now that gasoline is back down again, I need to go over there. Sorry to hear about changes, but I'll gamble a gallon and motor over soon.

I'll let you know how it goes. Maybe tomorrow!

From A Hamburger Today

A Classic Los Angeles Burger with a Perfect Bun at Cassell's

When Mr. Cassell was still around, and the restaurant was in its original location a block west, it may well have served the best hamburger in America, or at least in Los Angeles, which amounts to the same thing.
Since he sold the place, although the new owners are well-meaning, it hasn't been the same. Cassell's never did French fries or onion rings before, and what they serve now is pretty bad. The lemonade is watery. But the burger is still pretty formidable, although it is hard to get a really rare burger there without ordering the 2/3 pound patty, which is for that reason necessary.

The potato salad is great, but the tang comes from dry mustard, not horseradish.

From A Hamburger Today

A Classic Los Angeles Burger with a Perfect Bun at Cassell's

Next time, definitely order a second slice of cheese. You'll be glad you did.

From A Hamburger Today

A Visit to Pat La Frieda Wholesale Meats

I think I just died and went to heaven, what a great post and fabulous photos.

From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Pacific Rim Glazed Flank Steak

I have used the same cast iron skillet for years..its not a fancy brand, bought at Walmart, seasoned it by rubbing oil into the bottom and sides of the skillet and putt into a warm (around 250 degree) oven for a few hours; then I let it sit until cool, rubbed off the excess oil with a paper towel. I worried so much about ruining the seasoning over the years and use two different methods to clean..NEVER use soap on the skillet..I sometimes use hot water which removes most everything..and another method I read about in a novel I was reading. Pioneers used sand to clean their pots and pans but now I use salt..the cheapest table salt..pour into the bottom of the skillet, put over low heat and let it warm until a crust forms and then scrape off and wipe out. It works..and I use salt without placing over heat as well and that works.

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