Serious Eats - seriouseats.com

I appreciated this review -- I've never been to The Smith but I have been staggered elsewhere by the wrongness of brioche buns for hamburgers. Butter is just not a supplemental taste that hamburger patties call out for. I'd be interested to hear about improvements on the hamburger bun that actually work. The supermarket hamburger bun seems like such a crummy thing in itself that a gourmetification should be possible. But just about every attempt I've witnessed to go beyond the basic bun has failed -- most recently, Cookshop's potato roll (10th Ave & 20th st or thereabouts).

Also, "judicially" isn't quite the word you were looking for -- check out "judgmatically" as Melville uses it to describe the preparation of broiled chicken ...