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Matsugen: Jean-Georges Vongerichten Presents Fresh Soba and More
May I ask: How is Matsugen for the diner never eating in a Japanese place? Do they explain the do's and don'ts and how to eat the various dishes?
Fantastic review- Thank you.
Beard Awards Predictions
I have eaten at both and I agree with Mr. Levine. They love Danny Meyer.This time to a fault.
I can state with confidence that they got this one (Outstanding Restaurant) wrong big time. Jean Georges is the better restaurant as far as food and service goes. Jean Georges has earned 3 Michelins, 4 NYT stars, 5 Mobile stars(10 years in a row). So I have good backing on my arguement.
It's too bad the Beards are a popularity contest, which is probably one of the reasons it is called "the Culinary Oscars".
Now about the voting: I thought it was a panel of their peers who cast the final vote as well as food critics. Is this correct?????
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Recent Comments | Response to Comments
Is the celebrity chef culture over?
I see 2 kinds of celebrity chefs: 1) the TV kind (Bourdain, Rachel Ray, etc) and 2) the Chefs who are famous for their cuisine first: (Keller, Ducasse, Boulud, Vongerichten, etc)
The TV kind I am sick of. The 2nd group I adore.
Matsugen: Jean-Georges Vongerichten Presents Fresh Soba and More
May I ask: How is Matsugen for the diner never eating in a Japanese place? Do they explain the do's and don'ts and how to eat the various dishes?
Fantastic review- Thank you.
Beard Awards Predictions
I have eaten at both and I agree with Mr. Levine. They love Danny Meyer.This time to a fault.
I can state with confidence that they got this one (Outstanding Restaurant) wrong big time. Jean Georges is the better restaurant as far as food and service goes. Jean Georges has earned 3 Michelins, 4 NYT stars, 5 Mobile stars(10 years in a row). So I have good backing on my arguement.
It's too bad the Beards are a popularity contest, which is probably one of the reasons it is called "the Culinary Oscars".
Now about the voting: I thought it was a panel of their peers who cast the final vote as well as food critics. Is this correct?????
Is the celebrity chef culture over?
LoCo is dead on.
I am also in total agreement with @chiff. If they're gonna flog stuff, it should at least be really, really good stuff. Putting one's name to Applebee's makes you dead to me. At least Welch's grape juice is actual juice, but dude, why not Penzy's? Yeah, they don't have a spokesperson, but I'll bet good money that had AB approached them, they'd have genuflected on the spot.
And I say, Bring Back Sara Moulton. I really miss her...
Is the celebrity chef culture over?
I miss the Two Fat Ladies...
Is the celebrity chef culture over?
LoCo summed it up nicely. I'm on the fence with endorsements. They are tv personalities and that's how tv personalities make money, endorsing things and putting on tv shows.
I think the difference comes in protecting their "brand". Alton came close, but he was selective (I cringe every time I see the add tho). Tyler and Applebee's? Made me think less of his cred as a chef. When I see Guy pushing TGIF's it reinforces the idea that I wouldn't ever want to eat there anyway and Ray Ray will shill anything from flatwear to Triskets and dogfood, do we really care what she has to tell us when she's telling us she can be bought by anybody for anything? With any industry, when the brand isn't protected it loses its strength, and I think so will Rachel and Guy and all the others who don't make selective choices.
Much to my surprise, I did notice the other day in a much older Good Eats that AB was in a supermarket and picked up a can of Welch's Grape and rather conspicuously waved it around while talking, so that relationship may have been there for a long time.
Is the celebrity chef culture over?
Ditto to what LoCo said also........
Is the celebrity chef culture over?
Well said LoCo.
Is the celebrity chef culture over?
Part of the confusion stems from the erroneous categorization of people like Tyler Florence and Alton Brown as "celebrity chefs" -- whether you like them or not (and I do like AB), the vast majority of the people starring in current Food Network shows are "television personalities" not celebrity chefs.
Celebrity chefs are people like Boulud, Waters, Atchez, Keller, Adrià, Ducasse, Vongerichten...Stellar chefs who are so well-known, they have achieved fame and celebrity.
Regarding sponsorships, an endorsement or sponsorship of some particular product does not necessarily represent a sell-out. It depends on a number of things, including the endorser's qualifications, his/her reasons for endorsing, the product being endorsed, etc. That said, Food Network represents the commercialized, dumbed-down version of foodie-ism. Its TV personalities are employed in the field of commercial television. Engaging in commercial sponsorships and endorsements is part of their profession, so it's not exactly a sell-out. Furthermore, it makes perfect sense that they endorse mediocre, dumbed-down products that no *real* foodie would ever use (e.g., Applebees, TGIFs). After all, FN personalities are mostly just mediocre, dumbed-down versions of real celebrity chefs, on a network that mostly caters to a poorly informed, dumbed-down food audience. There are a few notable exceptions, but this is pretty much the reality of the current Food Network.
For the most part, the public that is interested in FN personalities and the products they hawk is going to be interested in whatever the commercial media tell them to be interested in. If they are told to be interested in local foods, they will promptly become interested. If they are told to jump on the organic bandwagon, they will obey. If they are told that Sandra Lee is a great chef, they'll believe it. Just tell them the flavor of the day, and they'll like it.
In general, serious food enthusiasts are not FN's target audience. Likewise, FN fans probably do not comprise a significant portion of the target audience of the Kellers or Adriàs of the world.
Is the celebrity chef culture over?
@Fins - 1997 was definitely the heyday of TVFN. They were (I believe) still showing the old repeats of Julia Child shows, along with a whole host of really great Food TV.
As far as celeb endorsements, I find the whole thing cheesy. If AB were to pimp, say, King Arthur Flour, something cooks generally view as a superior product, the viewing public could believe he actually uses it. Credibility intact. Grape Juice? Maybe he actually likes it...Maybe not. Swanson Stock? No, thank you. Applebee's??? This will not strike anyone as very obscene unless, of course, you've eaten at an Applebee's. They make Olive Garden look good. Credibility - down the toilet keeping the Tidy Bowl Man company.
Is the celebrity chef culture over?
Tyler designed a menu for Applebees why wouldn't he not eat his own s#$t? AB 's endorment for grapejiuce was just on, nothing wrong w/the juice. I do agree though that it is a bit annoying to see RR everytime you turn around in the supermarket. Alot of the other celebrities today that endorse products whether food or non foods are well aware of the products they endorse and have turned down endorsing something because of how it is made or other political reasons. Anyhow if they want to do a commercial that is their business.
Is the celebrity chef culture over?
@chiff ahh 1997... back when TVFN was interesting. I learned much back then as Emeril and David Rosengarten (sp?) were my faves. That's when I first took a real interest in cooking. Kids were old enough to start enjoying things and DH was tired of eating off the kiddie menu.
Is the celebrity chef culture over?
@fins - No worries. I attended a taping of Emeril Live - way back before he had music! Must have been around 1997 because I moved to CO shortly afterward. It was a fun show and Emeril made cooking approachable for a lot of people. I only wish TVFN didn't clone his image ad nauseum.
Is the celebrity chef culture over?
@chiff Don't diss Emeril! He invented garlic :D
Is the celebrity chef culture over?
...you know, the Rachel Ray phenomenon...we all loved her when she was sweet and simple and had one show...
I call this Emerilization although the first personalities inflicted with this torture by TVFN were David Rosengarten and The Two Hot Tamales - not to mention Sarah Moulton. It was only after Emeril was shoved down our throats in a) Seventy Bajillion TVFN shows; b) a failed prime time series; and c) TV commercials, I had the "aha" moment that led to the term "Emerilizing."
When will TVFN learn overexposure is the kiss of death? Granted, for some it's relatively quick and painless but eventually it all leads to the same thing - lack of credibility and career damage.
Is the celebrity chef culture over?
ccweb, good question, and to clarify: Do you think the public's interest will shift more to food (be it local food, cuisine, etc.--essentially, what's actually on the plate) than personality?
Hope this helps, because I'd love to know what you (as in you, specifically) think.
Thanks!
Is the celebrity chef culture over?
To add to what SweetHeat said, I'm loving the 2nd group more than ever. Since high end meals are a no-go for now, I love that Dallas chefs like Kent Rathburn and Dean Fearing set their recipes loose into the web-o-sphere. I may not want to pay for Jasper's or Fearing's, but I can still do up one fancy meal.
Matsugen: Jean-Georges Vongerichten Presents Fresh Soba and More
so i went. first of all, if you are short do not sit at the communal table. my back is still sore from straining my body to comfortably sit in the chairs. seriously, the need something more comfortable. we ordered edamame and seaweed salad to start - a little boring, i know, but the seaweed salad was really excellent. edamame was good and had a nice little kick to it. we wound up going with 2 sobas and an order of the pork belly. pork belly was delicious - very fatty, but in a good way. got different sobas than what i had planned on getting - two hot ones - one with duck and scallion, the other with tamago. skip the tamago - boring boring dish. it lacked a depth of flavor, and i just didn't enjoy the taste of soggy egg. the duck and scallion on the other hand was much better.
downside (besides the chairs) was the service. it was truly awful. they were obviously training their staff, so i wanted to give them some slack, but they were totally inexperienced. waitstaff hovered constantly - interrupting the meal frequently to fill water glasses after 2 sips had been taken, then again to wipe up the water they spilled (you had to move your body for them to fill the water, so it was really inconvenient and annoying). one asked our neighbor to use the hot hand towel. and he said "you're telling me to use it this second?" "yes". can you believe that? it was just because he wanted to bus it right away. one waitstaff guy stood directly across from me and kept locking eyes as if to see if i would tell him to do something - it was incredibly unnerving and made me not want to eat. finally one of the more experienced people told him to back off. many more examples of bad service - but it was enough that i will not be going back.
Matsugen: Jean-Georges Vongerichten Presents Fresh Soba and More
am headed there tonight!! definitely going to try that soba
Matsugen: Jean-Georges Vongerichten Presents Fresh Soba and More
Really excellent and helpful post that clears up the three main myths of this place.
I can't help wondering whether Matsugen's various anomalies might not work against it, though. I'll have to see for myself. But thinking out loud here, as one might given the details of the restaurant:
- If most of the menu looks like a regular neighborhood Japanese restaurant yet the neighborhood restaurant warhorses (veg. tempura, eel+cuc, toro+scallion, and cold soba) are done poorly;
- If JVG is executive producing this familiar sort of movie (see above) but not involved in directing the movie/the kitchen;
- If it is, in fact, not a noodle bar and offers only one good kind of soba (the inaka or 'rustic' or 'country') out of others, although the Matsugen
chain is known for their soba; and if the hot soba, which is much more difficult to pull off in terms of noodle-texture since the noodles are still basically cooking (ask any good ramen cook), is only tasty for the duck broth (which, can be had at Soba-ya as Emily_Koh mentioned)...
...then what, exactly, are people going to flock there for? I'm still going to try it out and there's plenty to try. But it would really only be by overlooking the curious facts above and knowing that a few random dishes are good: the rustic soba, the sea urchin and yuzu, and the grapefruit gelee. Again, just thinking out loud but I think still think there are various problems at the very core of Matsugen, which are at the level of conception.
Matsugen: Jean-Georges Vongerichten Presents Fresh Soba and More
thebirdie, we took a picture of the soba noodles, but we didn't use it. Our photographer, the great Robyn Lee, went to shoot the roughest soba noodles, which I adored cold, but somehow she was presented with the medium noodles instead. Our apologies.
Matsugen: Jean-Georges Vongerichten Presents Fresh Soba and More
hdthoreau, it wasn't packed. You do have to make a reservation, but there is a great communal table where I happily dined with Serious Eats' Erin Zimmer.
You absolutely don't have to look for it on tablexchange. Even if they tell you they only have 6:30 and 9:30 when you call, just go and eat at the communal table.
Matsugen: Jean-Georges Vongerichten Presents Fresh Soba and More
There is a misconception on the shabu shabu. It serves two, thus the price for two is $52.
Matsugen: Jean-Georges Vongerichten Presents Fresh Soba and More
I'm fascinated by the sea urchin with yuzu jelly. I can't wrap my mind around how a citrus jelly plays off the ocean essence of sea urchin roe.
Love their spin on the ubiquitous orange slices for dessert.
Matsugen: Jean-Georges Vongerichten Presents Fresh Soba and More
was it packed when you went? did you have to make a reservation? will i need to look for it on tablexchange.com?
Matsugen: Jean-Georges Vongerichten Presents Fresh Soba and More
How come there is no pic of Soba noodle?? This is a soba noodle place, not shabu shabu.
Matsugen: Jean-Georges Vongerichten Presents Fresh Soba and More
I'm actually surprised by the soba prices, because I was expecting something outrageously expensive, but it's on par with the offerings over at Soba-ya in the East Village. (Have you been there yet, Ed? Personally my top pick for soba in NYC... I missed my chance to try Honmura An, and I haven't been to Sobakoh yet.)
But jeez, $52 for shabu shabu... I understand it's for quality, but shabu shabu I consider as comfort food, not high-end. Seems a bit over the top.
Matsugen: Jean-Georges Vongerichten Presents Fresh Soba and More
I really love how the dessert plays off the orange slices you always get at the end of the meal in alot of Japanese restaurants. I'll have to add that uni to my list of sea urchin dishes I need to try...
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I see 2 kinds of celebrity chefs: 1) the TV kind (Bourdain, Rachel Ray, etc) and 2) the Chefs who are famous for their cuisine first: (Keller, Ducasse, Boulud, Vongerichten, etc)
The TV kind I am sick of. The 2nd group I adore.