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The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
Let us not forget, in this country of gigantic agri-farms and unfresh eggs, raw egg yolks can mean salmonella. Better only do soft-boiled eggs that'll get you laid with farmers market products.
One of L.A.'s Best Burgers at Rustic Canyon in Santa Monica
Q: why tolerate mass toppings on this burger, but eschew the perfectly reasonable vegetation at Tavern?
- an avid (and confused) reader who has sampled at least 50% of AHT's LA burger coverage.
Birthday Burger at Tavern in Brentwood, Los Angeles
$17 dollars, same price as the DBGB burger. A few miles away Rustic Canyon has $12 burger and beer nights. I can't imagine Tavern's beer (tho I love the food + ambience), being $5 + a pint of beer better than RC's.
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Trenne with beef bolognese, cavolo nero, parmesan
Posted by SinoSoul, May 16, 2009 at 12:55 PM
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Recent Comments | Response to Comments
Top 5: Damon Gambuto's Favorite Burgers in Los Angeles
Just lost a LA reader. Comme Ca has limp weeds for greens, Umami's a lousy shtick with too much bun and aholes for servesr. A person who enjoys Pie N Burger has never traversed south of the 105 for a real grilled burger (Mom's, The Burger Stand, Master's, etc.) That leaves Rustic Canyon. Hey, that's great, but it doesn't rectify leaving out Bar Marmont, 25 Degrees, or Beacon, etc.
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
Let us not forget, in this country of gigantic agri-farms and unfresh eggs, raw egg yolks can mean salmonella. Better only do soft-boiled eggs that'll get you laid with farmers market products.
One of L.A.'s Best Burgers at Rustic Canyon in Santa Monica
Q: why tolerate mass toppings on this burger, but eschew the perfectly reasonable vegetation at Tavern?
- an avid (and confused) reader who has sampled at least 50% of AHT's LA burger coverage.
Birthday Burger at Tavern in Brentwood, Los Angeles
$17 dollars, same price as the DBGB burger. A few miles away Rustic Canyon has $12 burger and beer nights. I can't imagine Tavern's beer (tho I love the food + ambience), being $5 + a pint of beer better than RC's.
Locanda Verde: Come for the Fried Chicken, But Stay for the Pie
What captxunderpants said, plus I'd like the chix to do a strip tease first. Ridiculous what NYC restaurants are allowed to get away with. First Ssam bar, now this? I missed Locanda Verde last weekend while in NYC, but $55 fried chicken was not what I had in mind.
When Is It Socially Acceptable to Share Food?
When is it socially acceptable NOT to share food? Assuming everyone's mom taught "sharing is caring", I find it hurtful when people even consider not sharing. You don't share, you don't come to dinners.
A Family Friendly Burger at Dish in La Cañada Flintridge, California
I hear/read "The Fat Dog" also does a nice burger in that part of town (La Canada/Montrose, etc.) their menu here.
Minneapolis Burger Flowchart
Love the 112 Bakery. Didn't have their burger tho.. Maybe sometime in the next.. DECADE?
Great Cheeseburgers at La Grande Orange in Santa Monica, California
I've been avoiding LGO Pasadena due to the sheer hype and uneasy access. Definitely NOT going to LGO SM as an LEYE enterprise, but perhaps it's time to check it out and compare it against 6 other heavy hitting Hollywood burgers
Paradise Lost at Paradise Cove Beach Cafe in Malibu, California
WTF would anyone even bother to 1) go to this place 2) order food (burger) here 3) review it on a national "burger" blog. ugh!
It's Paradise Cove. Biggest AHT waste of time ever.
Hole in Wall Burger Joint in West Los Angeles
Read about this joint's opening and never was tempted to check this out. Reminds me of The Fix. Perfectly mediocre burger, it seems.
Brooklyn Grimaldi's vs. Texas Grimaldi's
Just went to Vegas' Grimaldi's in January, the bottom of the crust is definitely blacker than the pix from Houston's branch.
A gentleman (perhaps tourist?) actually asked the staff to send the pizza back into the coal oven for more brownage. Not a bad pie at all!
Top 5: Damon Gambuto's Favorite Burgers in Los Angeles
One more quick note... I mentioned in my response to @sinosoul city boundaries... To be fair, I was unfair. Pie N Burger is in Pasadena, which is, like the other cities in question, technically outside of the LA city boundary.
Top 5: Damon Gambuto's Favorite Burgers in Los Angeles
Thanks to everyone for commenting. Of course, "best of's" or "favorite" lists are bound to spark some controversy, but we've all fallen victim to those search terms when seeking out a a meal.
@jimmyjojo - you are welcome. I too don't find Father's Office a revelation as many others have, but more than that I find my colleague Nick summed it up best in his review of the place. It doesn't really qualify as a burger for this kind of a list.
@ChefJeffSD - Certainly Apple Pan is a classic eatery, but it's just not the kind of quality to warrant a mention here in the top five.
@Paula Maack - So glad that you enjoyed the list. Comme Ça is certainly a treat. Make sure your visit is a lunchtime one. Last I checked there's no burger available at dinner.
@simonmarkley - I understand your sentiment, but see above for my take on it.
@WikiAdam - You did recant, but you shouldn't have. I'd certainly hold these five up to FO and Applepan any day. No need to apologize for being passionate about burgers. I certainly am.
@Nebagakid - You are not alone in your love of Umami. I'm not on the bandwagon with it being the definitive new Los Angeles burger, but it's certainly part of the conversation about the best.
@sinosoul - Well, first off. So sorry to have lost you. A few quick things about your comment:
Comme Ça uses iceberg on its burger and while I don't find that it enhances it (I prefer mine sans lettuce) certainly that isn't a limp weed. Also - I think you put some stock in Jonathan Gold, his opinion, and a mention he made of you... I think he might agree with me on this one.
Umami is certainly full of schtick, but the grind is superior and I simply disagree about the meat to bun ratio.
As for my taste for Pie N Burger and what it has to say of my travels and where I get "grilled" burgers... Two things about that: First off, Pie N Burger is griddled so it would never be classified as a "real grilled burger."
Secondly, I have indeed made it south of 105... I reviewed a burger in Redondo Beach just a couple of weeks ago. It was really good, and like Mom's in Compton, is south of the 105. Another thing a burger in Redondo has in common with burger Compton? Neither is actually in Los Angeles so they wouldn't qualify for this list.
As for the other three you mentioned. All are good, but, would occupy the bottom half of my top ten. Again, sorry to have lost you.
@iheartcheese - Thanks for having my back. I appreciate it to be sure. That said, I know I am tapped to have an opinion and that means folks are gonna get riled up when they disagree. I guess I would say: I see my role here as not simply some arbiter, but rather, someone with a practiced and thought through method for forming his opinion and (hopefully) the skills to communicate it in a way that entertains and helps folks determine if they'd like to try a particular burger.
@mangabanga - Thanks so much for the support. I know not everyone will agree with me, but I did labor over my determinations.
Top 5: Damon Gambuto's Favorite Burgers in Los Angeles
Great list, Damon. Los Angeles thanks you for your tireless work on our behalf.
Top 5: Damon Gambuto's Favorite Burgers in Los Angeles
@iheartcheese: You're absolutely right, iheartcheese. I am totally guilty of skipping past the word "favorite," and instead inserted "best" in its place, believing this to be a definitive list of L.A.'s best burgers instead of just Damon Gambuto's personal picks. Forgive my rash response!
Top 5: Damon Gambuto's Favorite Burgers in Los Angeles
Um yeah, guys who take this a little too seriously:
I think the whole point of this is that he gets to write the list however he wants. Did you read the opening?
SinoSoul must have gotten passed up for this job.
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
@bgruber
Thanks to SeriousEats convenient comment subscriptions, I get comments forwarded to my inbox, so yep. Still reading them.
As for the answer... em... because Cook's Illustrated readers like their salmon more well-done than I do?
shh... don't tell Chris!
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
Kenji, if you're still reading the comments on this...
"This is very similar to the gunk that seeps out of the surface of overcooked salmon."
When you did the poached/steamed salmon on ATK, you had white gunk, but made a point to say that it didn't mean the salmon was overcooked. Why the discrepancy? Was that a special case because of the cooking method?
Also, thanks for this and all of your articles on here. They've been great.
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
@ScoutinSpokane - sounds like something that might be good for the toaster oven.
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
I adore soft boiled eggs!! I could eat 10 at a time for sure!
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
Kenji,
The heat transfer rate/area = (coefficient of thermal conductivity)*(T_bath-T_egg)/distance
The equation is the same regardless of the medium. The dependence on the medium comes from the thermal conductivity coefficient.
Also, I agree with you that we are the only two involved in this conversation right now :)
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
I may have missed it, but I didn't see any comments about baking "hard boiled" eggs. I didn't think it would work when I saw the article, but just set the raw eggs on middle rack of a cold oven, (they recommend a little foil on the bottom of the oven in case one is cracked and breaks - never had it happen) set oven temp to 325, set timer to 30 min., when timer goes off, drop in very cold water. I've done it several times, worked perfect everytime. Tried pulling some out at 25 min., yolks were not completely set good enough for devilled eggs, but perfect for eating with a little salt and pepper. One complaint about this method is wasting electricity just for a few eggs. I had my potatoes wrapped in foil, some bread rolls rising, and some jalepeno poppers that I bake as an appetizer ready to go in at appropriate times once full temp was reached. Egg salad sandwiches, potato salad, some appetizers, and probably hashbrowns for breakfast in my future. What energy waste?
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
@pookay
p.s. All of this is starting to remind me why thermodynamics was my second least favorite class in college :)
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
@pookay - yes, you're right. I jumped the gun in my response there. I stand corrected.
But at the risk of putting my foot in my mouth again, I'm going to ask you another question: my immediate reaction is that your statement that the rate of heating is inversely proportional to the distance is not quite accurate, because it does not take into account the heat transfer coefficient of the egg. In a vacuum, yes, the rate of heating is proportional to only the distance, but an egg has mass, and so there is a coefficient involved, and that coefficient is proportional to thickness of the egg that the heat has to pass through, so does that not turn the equation into an exponential one instead of a linear one?
And one more question: are we losing the other SEers here? :)
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
Kenji,
The contradition I pointed out still stands no matter what constants are involved since any constant divided by zero is still infinity.
The rate of heating per area is proportional to the temperature difference and inversely proportional to the distance (this actually means that in the instant right after the cool egg is put in the boiling water, the rate of heat transfer to the outer surface of the egg is infinite; note that this is not a paradox since an infinite rate times an infinitely small time interval is still a finite amount of heat). The temperature itself is not inversely proportional to the distance (or the square of the distance); solving the rate equation, the temperature approaches that of the boiling water exponentially fast with time so that if you wait long enough the whole egg will be the same temperature as the bath. The distance to the heat bath appears only in the exponent, so that the closer to the bath, the faster the temperature changes.
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
@Pookay
Thanks for the correction, although I think the original statement is technically not inaccurate - the temperature I did say proportional, which is not to say that there are not constants involved (such as the temperature of the heat source) in the equation that takes care of the zero/infinity case.
Newton's law of cooling only states that the rate of heat transfer is proportional to the temperature difference between the body and its surroundings - it doesn't have anything to do the temperature gradient formed within a solid mass. To solve that, I think it helps to think of the egg as something like a russian doll - a series of solids. From there you can see that because of Newton's law of cooling, the outer layers heat up at a much faster rate than the inner layers and that the differences in the rate at which the various layers are heating up is proportional to the distance, which means that the differences in the actual temperatures of the various layers are proportional to the inverse square of the distance.
@Attack monkey
I was doing it lid off - but like I said in the post, you can't control for all the variables that might affect cooking time - your house might be a few degrees cooler than mine, or your stove might have a few more btu's than mine. This article is meant more as a guide so that you know what aspects to consider when boiling an egg, and so that you understand the science behind it, and will thus be able to optimize cooking in your own particular environment. If that means putting on a lid to reduce the rate of heat loss, so be it!
- Kenji
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
@J. Kenji Lopez-Alt
Awesome write-up, I disdain cooking but am a scientist at heart... First thing I did was cruise down to the kitchen to give it a shot. When doing HB (but also SB) are you putting/leaving the lid on? That significantly changes the rate of heat loss to the environment and can make a big change in the water temperature variation over time...?
Hole in Wall Burger Joint in West Los Angeles
Spot on review....Damn fine beef...deal killer of a bun......you forgot to mention that the homemade ketchup is simply pig awful--watery, bitter---it resembles chunky bile. DO NOT WANT
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
As a scientist, I'm glad that someone is starting a series focusing on this aspect of cooking. However, I would like to point out an inconsistency:
"when a mass is exposed to heat for a given period of time, a temperature gradient will form within that mass, with the area closest to the heat source being hottest, and the area furthest from the heat source being coolest. With very few exceptions, the temperature of a given spot in the food is proportional to the inverse square of its distance from the surface exposed to the heat source."
If this were true, since the distance from the heat source at the surface of the egg is zero, this would imply that the surface of the egg has infinite temperature. I think you mean to say that the RATE of heat conduction depends on the distance from the heat source (as well as the temperature difference). Also, the rate of heat conduction is proportional to the inverse of the distance from the source, NOT the inverse squared (Newton's law of cooling).
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
I love the scientific approach to the art of boiling an egg. However, I am surprised the author did not mention the temperature of the egg going into the water. Were his eggs right out of the refrigerator (I don't thing so) or were they at room temperature? This is an important consideration and I am surprised that it wasn't mentioned!
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
I will beg to differ on the instructions given here.
You *can* have more control and reduce the variables involved in cooking your eggs. First of all, starting with cold eggs right out of the fridge is a mistake. You are maximizing the temperature difference between the egg's starting temperature and its final temperature. You will have much more control if you warm the eggs first. I place them in a bath of hot tap water for 10 minutes while I heat my water.
Secondly, I place the eggs directly into boiling water. The reason I put the eggs directly into boiling water is that waiting for a boil is a "soft target". What you consider a boil or a simmer could be as much as a minute different from someone else.
Lastly, I stop the cooking after a prescribed period of time by pouring off most of the hot water and replacing it with water and ice.
In summary: 1) I reduce the temperature change that will be required from the starting point of the egg to the end point of the process by warming the eggs up. 2) I avoid soft milestones by placing the eggs directly into boiling water at the beginning of the cooking process. 3) I stop the cooking (and improve the peel of the egg) by using an ice wash at the end.
BTW, if you want hot eggs, pull them out after only 10 or 15 seconds. The ice water will have already improved the peel by cooling the membrane and surface of the egg without cooling the inside of the egg. You can even peel the egg most of the time before the heat rebounds and makes the egg too hot to hold. A neat trick!
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
I've been doing it the way that Sara Moulton mentioned on her show many years ago - put the eggs in a saucepan covered with water. Bring it to a boil, not a hard boil. Turn off heat. Cover and let sit on a cold burner for a specific amount of time (I think she said 13 minutes but I do it for 16 minutes).
Remove carefully. Crack. Peel.
I find that if I crack them a bit and then refrigerate for awhile, they peel much easier.
So I am not really boiling per-say. This way I never over-boil, I never get a green line around the yolk, and I don't get that horrid sulphur smell you get from over boiling. Works well every time for me.
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
We did an entire series on "how to eggs" back in July. From getting the basics down we moved the egg out of its normal breakfast role into dinner as well as methods were really fool proof, we tried and tried until, well, perfect! http://www.chezus.com/?s=incredible+egg&x=0&y=0
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
I love this article! I've always thought I was an idiot since every time I boil eggs (I'm a hard boil-type), there is always something wrong with them. Now I know why! Soft boiled eggs look fascinating, but runny yolks gross me out big time.
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
I tried but could not get the "perfect soft-cooked egg" by placing an egg taken straight from the fridge into 180F water, despite meticulously maintaining the water bath at eggsactly 180F for the six minutes the egg was immersed. The egg was considerably undercooked, with the whites fairly liquidy. I'm going to try egg-en.
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
Ah....why am I only now finding this site??? The first article I read is the best thing since my Food Science class in culinary AND I find that it references the chef I admire most! I am ova-ly eggstatic! This has been worth the hunt...Knowing the whys and hows only make us better at what we love doing most.
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Trenne with beef bolognese, cavolo nero, parmesan
Posted by SinoSoul, May 16, 2009 at 12:55 PM
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About SinoSoul
Website: http://www.sinosoul.com
Location: Los Angeles
About: skinny foodlum, menu destroyer.
Favorite foods: Yakult. turkey burgers from Compton. sai krok Issan, raw kale. blanco d'oro. tacos al pastor. Taiwanese pork jerky. khanom jiin namya.
Last bite on earth: hate this question. not on the horizon for me. too saddening.

Just lost a LA reader. Comme Ca has limp weeds for greens, Umami's a lousy shtick with too much bun and aholes for servesr. A person who enjoys Pie N Burger has never traversed south of the 105 for a real grilled burger (Mom's, The Burger Stand, Master's, etc.) That leaves Rustic Canyon. Hey, that's great, but it doesn't rectify leaving out Bar Marmont, 25 Degrees, or Beacon, etc.