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From Serious Eats

Chicago BBQ is Better than Memphis BBQ

@Michael Nagrant

I'll have to respectfully disagree with the statement. But I am proud of Chicago. It has better barbecue than most large cities, and certainly New York.

What I do love about Chicago barbecue are places like Honey 1 and Uncle John's because they are totally unique. They weren't researched or market driven. For the most part, the pitmasters learned their craft from their fathers who at some point learned it in the South. It feels natural and inevitable. The rib tip and sausage meals are such a brilliant combination.

I think Eastern North Carolina is probably my favorite region, with places like Wilbers, the Pit, and Allen and Son's really sticking out.

In Memphis, I am absolutely smitten with Cozy Corner, which I'm glad you liked. I don't think we have anything in Chicago that can quite compete with it. Smoque is very good, and their sides are beyond any other sides I've had elsewhere. But the barbecue has always just been perfectly solid. I suppose I'm looking for that edge, a little more heart and soul. Maybe Smoque just needs some more time to develop. It is relatively new.

I still need to hit Kansas City and Texas before I can say for sure. But I am no hungry for barbecue...thanks!

From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Baked Shrimp and Feta Pasta

I just used dried oregano, but fresh would definitely work.

From Serious Eats

Standing Room Only: Budacki's Drive-In

@Daniel Zemans: Absolutely went with spicy. Would the mild just be the buffalo sauce by itself?

From Serious Eats

Standing Room Only: Budacki's Drive-In

sdchap00: That might be it! I've been trying to recreate this sauce from scratch and it never ended up right. I couldn't get the recipe from the owners, and sriracha was the only thing I could think of. Thanks for your help. I'll try this combo tonight.

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Dinner Tonight: Punjabi Rajma (Kidney Bean and Tomato Curry)

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Standing Room Only: Budacki's Drive-In

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From Serious Eats

Chicago BBQ is Better than Memphis BBQ

@Michael Nagrant

I'll have to respectfully disagree with the statement. But I am proud of Chicago. It has better barbecue than most large cities, and certainly New York.

What I do love about Chicago barbecue are places like Honey 1 and Uncle John's because they are totally unique. They weren't researched or market driven. For the most part, the pitmasters learned their craft from their fathers who at some point learned it in the South. It feels natural and inevitable. The rib tip and sausage meals are such a brilliant combination.

I think Eastern North Carolina is probably my favorite region, with places like Wilbers, the Pit, and Allen and Son's really sticking out.

In Memphis, I am absolutely smitten with Cozy Corner, which I'm glad you liked. I don't think we have anything in Chicago that can quite compete with it. Smoque is very good, and their sides are beyond any other sides I've had elsewhere. But the barbecue has always just been perfectly solid. I suppose I'm looking for that edge, a little more heart and soul. Maybe Smoque just needs some more time to develop. It is relatively new.

I still need to hit Kansas City and Texas before I can say for sure. But I am no hungry for barbecue...thanks!

From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Baked Shrimp and Feta Pasta

I just used dried oregano, but fresh would definitely work.

From Serious Eats

Standing Room Only: Budacki's Drive-In

@Daniel Zemans: Absolutely went with spicy. Would the mild just be the buffalo sauce by itself?

From Serious Eats

Standing Room Only: Budacki's Drive-In

sdchap00: That might be it! I've been trying to recreate this sauce from scratch and it never ended up right. I couldn't get the recipe from the owners, and sriracha was the only thing I could think of. Thanks for your help. I'll try this combo tonight.

From Serious Eats

Making Cheap Hard Cider From Scratch

@celeriac -- Thanks for your information about how cider can be an even more interesting drink. We'd love to know more, and you're right, this post is about the absolute easiest, entry-level cider. Contact us at pauperedchef@gmail.com because we'd love to learn more about it.

From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Baked Potatoes with Broccoli and Cheddar

Who said I was being innovative?

I was just surprised that this amazing restaurant considered it as a supreme topping. Kind of reminds you that the basics really work. I'm hooked!

From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Easy Hot and Sour Soup

Do you think that Kitchn recommended regular white vinegar because it would blend more easily into the dish? I can't honestly remember the last time I used white vinegar. Maybe its relative lack of taste and straightforwardness is suitable for this mission, when you just need that sharp shock. Obviously, it's not recommended when black vinegar is available.

Thanks everyone for the comments. This is fascinating.

From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Easy Hot and Sour Soup

Rice vinegar is an interesting idea and it'd have towork. I just was just following the recipe as is written in the Kitchn, and not wanting to screw things up. But I'll try that next time.

Is that really true about balsamic? That interests me to no end.

From Serious Eats

Sous-Vide Cooking with Heston Blumenthal

@J. Kenji Lopez-Alt
I attended the Chicago demonstration of the machine, and I went through the exact same menu. Everything I had was extraordinary. I mean, I'd never had a pear that was so beautifully cooked! Just think about it, even the best poached pears have outsides that are mushier than the insides. But this one was the same texture throughout. It's astouding.

Honestly, though, it's the eggs that I keep thinking about. They were flawless. To think that a home cook, or the local diner, could consistently turn out eggs like this is enough to blow my mind. No more overcooked eggs! It really will change everything.

I understand the comments on how the chicken looks. When chicken is cooked like this, the meat doesn't become stringy, so it doesn't look "normal". Like Kenji explained, "you can't even see the muscle fibers". It's initially a strange texture. What it honesty tastes like is eating chicken with gravy built in with every bite. All the juices are still inside the chicken. So every bite is perfect.

In Chicago, Blumenthal presented two versions of the dish. One straight out of the bag, and one that was removed from the bag and then sauteed in a skillet to crisp up the skin. The sauteed version was still unbelievably juicy, but it also had some of those roasted notes that make a solid roast chicken so comforting. I think I preferred the latter.

My mind is boggled with the possiblities of this machine. This instrument doesn't replace other cooking methods like roasting and sauteeing. It's just another tool that can be used in wonderful ways.

From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Okra Curry

ace1025: This is fascinating. I'm only familiar with the large, plump green variety. Were the okra available in India the same color and size?

From Talk

Five Guys. Not so much.

I had a remarkable experience at the Chicago location. But I like griddled skinny burgers. That's my thing. And Five Guys does that very well.

From Serious Eats

Dinner Tonight: Club Sandwich

@conky: I think your Big Mac reference is interesting, but I think you've accidently proven my point! On a big mac, or any other triple bread burger, the middle slice soaks in the juices from the hot patties, turning into something very much different then the top and bottom. It becomes nearly creamy. On a club, the middle slice remains crispy and crunchy because the sandwich isn't warm. It's just another piece of toast.

At least that's my opinion.

From A Hamburger Today

Zaharakos: A Wonderful Trip Back in Time with Burgers and Floats in Columbus, Indiana

This is an epic post. Great job reporting.

My feelings on the Gom Brr-Grr are based mostly on admiration. It certainly isn't my favorite style of burger, but I love the fact that it's a regional dish with its own odd history. It's the kind of thing that makes me proud of the samll Indiana town I was born in. Plus, I think it's a pretty good sandwich.

That said, the best burger in Columbus is probably at Lucas Brothers. 1842 Indiana Ave, Columbus, IN‎ - (812) 376-7010‎. If you ever want to see the smash burger in all its greasy-dive glory, then this is the place. I'd eat there every time I visit my parents if only I could ever figure out when they are open. It's one of the last of the old-school burger places in the area. That place is a treasure.

From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Fennel-Dusted Chicken with Brown Butter and Capers

@Queenalli: I'm not sure. I just used regular brined capers that you buy in a jar. they worked fine.

@sov: it's the part of the breast they use to make chicken tenders. By removing it you can cook the breast quickly and more evenly.

@emilydev: It's just a fancy name Gourmet used to title it. Use whole fennel seeds and grind them. Or you can just buy pre-ground fennel.

From Serious Eats

Standing Room Only: Susie's Drive Thru

@anysuchname: I really thought about going to the Bike the Dog event, but wondered how my stomach would handle the situation. Was it a good event?

@project_nessa: You are right about the cheese. There is something odd going on in there.

@NotAmerican: "Sweet but milder Mountain dew" ???? That makes me want to try it.

@Totally Sweet: No problem. When it is as good as this, I'll happily go.

@jlewfoodie: I'd say give the milkshakes a shot, but I understand the reasoning.

From A Hamburger Today

The AHT Guide to Hamburger and Cheeseburger Styles

@akuban: This is an amazing guide. And thanks for the shout-out with the smashed burger. It is absolutely my favorite style, and there are a few places in the Midwest that still make it.

I think our goal should be inspire the rest of the greasy diners around the country to get on board. Get rid of your bland frozen patties and start smashing your burgers!

From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Baked Ziti

After rereading the recipe, Cooks Illustrated says they tested the crushed tomatoes, but the whole ones worked better.

@notamerican: Not sure about that. I know the cream sounds strange, but it's really an ingenius way to add body and creaminess without making the dish too heavy.

@mdeatherage: They say the cooking of the tomatoes first helps get rid of the that raw tomato taste.

From Slice

Good Idea: How to Really Reheat Pizza in a Skillet or on a Griddle

Adam are you on this? I want some photo evidence of the results. This is blowing my mind at work. I'm so intrigued I can hardly stand it.

From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Baked Ziti

This is an interesting question. I think somewhere along the line I stopped buying crushed tomatoes because I had heard that they were not as good as whole. Now, I can't tell you where I heard that but it's something that has, for whatever reason, stuck. Cooks Illustrated usually has their reasons, and I trust them.

From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Fried Rice with Saffron, Ginger, and Tomatoes (Arroz Frito Aortuguesa)

@veggiesattva You're having more luck than me! When I attempt to just chuck the eggs in at the end, they tend to immediately adhere to the rice, which ultimately makes everything clump up. It's a mess. Real chinese restaurants can do this probably because they have larger woks or pans where the eggs can properly cook without being crowded.

My advice is that if if works for you, then keep doing it. You're right, it's easier and you'll have to do less dishes. But I just find cooking the eggs first works better on a smaller home skillet. As long as the end result is the same it's up to you.

From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Fried Rice with Saffron, Ginger, and Tomatoes (Arroz Frito Aortuguesa)

@falnfenix I'd suggest using soy sauce as a substitute. But a little fish sauce would never hurt.

From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Fried Rice with Saffron, Ginger, and Tomatoes (Arroz Frito Aortuguesa)

@mcebacal Thanks for pointing that out. The tomatoes go in on the third step. It has been fixed.

From Serious Eats

Standing Room Only: La Pasadita

@garguipe The best part about the Ms. Pacman machine is that it still works.

@ace1025 Yeah, if I lived close enough to it I could see myself visiting late at night. My late night place used to be Arturos Tacos. But now I need a new one in Logan Square.

@derekhinton2003 Really? I used to live by Las Asadas. But I think I tried a pork taco and it was just average. But I have read that their carne asada is the real deal.

From Serious Eats

Chicago BBQ is Better than Memphis BBQ

I am a Chicago native, but I must say that your claim is ridonkulous. I've spent a significant amount of time in Memphis, and their barbecue outshines ours by miles. It's true that Uncle John's hot links are amazing, but Cozy Corner's cornish game hen puts every other barbecue I've ever eaten to shame. The tourist traps are trash, but that's true here in Chicago as well (hello Pizzeria Uno, I'm talking to you, still have a soft spot for Gino's East though). Plus, Chicago barbecue is a hobby, Memphis barbecue is a lifestyle. BBQ spaghetti, BBQ nachos (BBQ Shop's nachos are worth going to prison for), BBQ bologna, plus ribs that are meaty and spiced perfectly, allowing the meat to shine through. We just don't have that here, the sauce overtakes the meat. Rib tips are the one place where I'll agree Chicago has an edge. Finally, I shall end my rant with perhaps the most important point. Sweet. Tea.

From Serious Eats

Chicago BBQ is Better than Memphis BBQ

As a Memphis native who has spent some time in Chicago recently, I both agree and vehemently disagree with the article. I still think there are some great barbecue places in Memphis that far outshine what I've had in Chi-town, but most people haven't heard of them or hadn't been. However, I do agree that the restaurants noted above (except for Central IMNSHO) are no longer representative of what Memphis 'cue was/is all about. See, a lot of the 'cue places in Memphis have become "industrialized" - that's our dirty little secret. I grew up about a block east of the original Corky's on Poplar Avenue - I still remember when it was converted from an arcade (and a 76 gas station before that) into Corky's. It was delicious and really was some of the best around. However, over time they have tweaked and adapted their original recipes to service the mass market - bottles, grocery stores, etc. The same thing has happened at all the other places - Rendevous, Commisary, Neely's, Interstate, etc. Once they start changing their recipes to be shelf stable and mass-produced and they start using their mass-produced product in the restaurants, they become just another place to eat.

Right now my two favorite places are Central (I like the Summer Ave location - much more room than the one on Central; they have the best brisket and their homemade bbq potato chips are great - especially freshly made) and Tom's on Getwell and Raines (bbq bologna is a must-try!).

From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Baked Shrimp and Feta Pasta

I think I want to make this tonight! What size baking dish? Also, would I have to make any changes to the cooking time if I double the recipe?

From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Baked Shrimp and Feta Pasta

Sounds good. I make a similar dish (http://simplyrecipes.com/recipes/baked_shrimp_in_tomato_feta_sauce/) quite often. It's always a hit.

Usually serve it over a tubed shaped pasta (rotini seems to work best for maximum sauce-catching). I like the idea of trying it over orzo, though.

I've been going shrimp crazy. Trader Joe's has had a great deal on very very 'fresh' tasting IQF Mexican white shrimp. 4.99 a pound. They come with shell and vein, so it takes a little more work, but the quality can't be beat for the price.

From Serious Eats

Standing Room Only: Budacki's Drive-In

Have never had the mild there. I'll try to get to Budacki's soon and report back on the sauce questions.

From Serious Eats

Standing Room Only: Budacki's Drive-In

Agreed on the sambal oelek. Wow, I bet that these are heaven... now I am kicking myself for not having tried them while we lived in Chicago. Oh, boo.

From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Baked Shrimp and Feta Pasta

In my experience, baking makes most pastas better! The tube shape protects a gooey center of creamier sauces, but I just love the crispy crackly bits, especially the corners of the baking dish.

From Serious Eats

Standing Room Only: Budacki's Drive-In

These wings are addictive. They sell 5 for $5 or 10 for $7. I live 2 blocks away and have been many times. I've managed to limit myself to an order of 5 just once. Just thinking of these incredible wings has me salivating.

Nick, which heat level did you try? I've always gotten spicy. I'm tempted to go for the hotter one, but a bit worried about is as well.

From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Baked Potatoes with Broccoli and Cheddar

I think you should add a fried egg on top. That would totally put it over the top. And also be super innovative. :P

It amazes me that people expect you guys to come up with completely new dishes for this column all the time.

From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Baked Potatoes with Broccoli and Cheddar

Baked potatoes with cheese sauce, broccoli, and ham cubes were a standard weeknight dinner in my house growing up. Mmmm...

From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Baked Potatoes with Broccoli and Cheddar

ooh, the bechamel-y sauce puts this over the edge. love it!

From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Easy Hot and Sour Soup

@Nick, you definitely don't to use a fine, aged balsamic in lieu of black vinegar, but a decent mass marketed brand will give you enough complexity and sweetness (perhaps a touch more than you want) to replicate the flavor of black vinegar. Regular rice vinegar is sharper than black vinegar and wouldn't blend as well.

From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Easy Hot and Sour Soup

Rice vinegar to me tastes like diluted white vinegar with a splash of sake added, very different flavor profile from black vinegar, bland, kind of yeasty toasty smelling, not sour enough.

I agree industrial balsamic (the stuff you buy at the supermarket) is sort of in the same direction as black vinegar. Real balsamic is not, it's far too sweet and thick.

From Serious Eats

Sous-Vide Cooking with Heston Blumenthal

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/foodanddrink/foodanddrinknews/6430858/Fat-Duck-food-poisoning-Heston-Blumenthal-will-face-no-action.html

''A health report last month concluded that oysters tainted with sewage and poor staff hygiene led to guests falling ill after eating at the restaurant in Bray, Berks.

However, environmental health officials have now decided not to prosecute the 43-year-old chef over alleged breaches of food safety legislation at the eatery, which is one of only three in Britain to hold three Michelin stars. ''


If Heston Blumenthal can make people sick by not having adequate sanitation, then what is he trying to do getting home cooks to breed bacteria in a bag?

From Serious Eats

Sous-Vide Cooking with Heston Blumenthal

I want one! Regarding the hygiene concerns, compared to the danger of deep-frying turkeys by amateurs, this seems tame. True, it may not be for everyone, but neither is a mandoline. Anyone who grills can see the control this would give them. Looking forward to more reports.

From Serious Eats

Sous-Vide Cooking with Heston Blumenthal

I was at this demo, and I have to agree, every bite was amazing.

Regarding the discontinued reynold's bags, their vacuum machine works just fine with the vacuum bags sold by ziploc; I've found they do a better job sucking out the air when there's a lot of liquid in the bag than the hand pump device ziploc provides.

One thing not really emphasized during the sous-vide demo is how great a combination this kind of tool is with a really good grill, like , say, a big green egg. You can sous-vide your pork chops, your steaks, your chicken, toss them on the grill to finish them off to absolute perfection. And if you like grass-fed steaks, but dont like how tough they usually are, sous-viding completely solves the problem.

From Serious Eats

Sous-Vide Cooking with Heston Blumenthal

Another issue to consider is the quality of the bags you use. commercial vacuum bags are multilayer laminate films, which contain an oxygen barrier. This allows you to pull a tight vacuum , if you have a multi thousand dollar cry o vac. Home machines generally leave levels of residual oxygen in the bag, and the simple cheap bags may not have an oxygen barrier. What does this mean? the long slow cook times, along the presence of salt and air can cause the product to develop warmed over flavor, which means they are beginning to go rancid. If the bag has no oxygen barrier, it means oxygen may be forced through the film after sealing by atmospheric pressure, you may not see a leaking bag, but oxidation can occur.

I have worked with sous vide for years, it really is not a practice you want out in uneducated hands, or in the hands of people who think they can control food safety processes by buying organic and local.

From Serious Eats

Sous-Vide Cooking with Heston Blumenthal

I don't know...call me a Luddite, but.there is something about the smell of food simmering, sizzling, and roasting that makes my mouth water and my stomach growl. A kitchen without these delicious aromas wafting through the air seems rather unappetizing. Or maybe, ala elBulli, we can spritz the air with the scent of roasted pork while we gum the sous-vide version.

From Serious Eats

Sous-Vide Cooking with Heston Blumenthal

I may be biased having been born in Chile and travelled extensively throughout Argentina but give me a steak cooked on a parrilla by Francis Mallman over a sous vide steak any day of the week. And yes, I have tried the latter. There are certain applications at which sous vide excels. But come on..... No home cook is going to start supper 72 hours in advance.

From Serious Eats

Sous-Vide Cooking with Heston Blumenthal

@Hannekin: 140°F is potentially safe for cooking chicken, based on the science behind the growth of microorganisms. When dealing with food safety, one must also consider the time held at a certain temperature. While salmonella does not die instantly at 140°F, it will die if held long enough at that temperature. (More precisely, enough will die to no longer be considered a health hazard). The USDA temperature recommendations are total bs. It's more to cover their own ass.
But yes, proper cooking is a huge issue when dealing with low temperature cooking. I hope this equipment comes with the proper food safety documentation detailing temperatures and times. If you're interested in low temp cooking, you really should read Douglas Baldwin's highly informative (and science-based) sous-vide site: http://amath.colorado.edu/~baldwind/sous-vide.html

-----

I have a homemade sous-vide setup that was constructed for under $100 using an ebayed Auber Instruments temperature controller, a hot plate and a stock pot. It's just a precise water bath, and is one of the most versatile cooking equipments that I have. If Ron Popeil were selling this, it would go something like this: But wait! It's not just a Sous-Vide Supreme, it's also a yogurt maker, dough proofer, slow-cooker crockpot, grain masher, red wine fermenter, perfect creme-brulee cooker, egg hatcher....

Unfortunately, the Sous-Vide Supreme does not allow you to cook exactly like they do in Michelin-starred restaurants. You still need a $5000 chamber vacuum sealer to be able to do make some of the things that require compression or liquids that shouldn't be frozen beforehand.

From Serious Eats

Sous-Vide Cooking with Heston Blumenthal

Chicken cooked to 140F just isn't safe. The "quality and freshness" of your ingredients don't matter; chickens are biological organisms and they frequently contain salmonella no matter how fresh they are, how free their range or whose backyard they were raised in. Your handling of the ingredients doesn't matter if they're already contaminated. Long holds (I am loathe to call it cooking) at low temperatures in anaerobic conditions is a recipe for disaster. The USDA didn't pick the numbers to be mean or to limit our options, they picked them in an attempt to help people avoid foodbourne illness.

From Serious Eats

Sous-Vide Cooking with Heston Blumenthal

Chef Blumenthal is helping to bring this form of cooking to the current public palate, but I remember writing about similar methods back in the 70s...It is already being used on such long distance railroad lines as Amtrak.
Apparently it must be done under highly controlled conditions so that it does not cause health issues, hence the expensive equipment.

From Serious Eats

Sous-Vide Cooking with Heston Blumenthal

I think a revolution has to happen in peoples' idea of food in general before sous vide machines become a common sight in households. This machine is great for those who want to try ferran adria or blumenthal style cooking at home but most people already have a preconceived idea of their 'ideal steak' or 'ideal burger' - one which is inherently tied to traditional cooking techniques.
If this machine is supposed to spearhead a revolution in food - it's got it's work cut out. Don't get me wrong, I think it's a great tool but I doubt it will hold as much mass appeal as Heston Blumenthal would like.

From Serious Eats

Sous-Vide Cooking with Heston Blumenthal

@J. Kenji - I have always wondered why I have never come across a burger cooked sous-vide and then quickly seared for the crust. I'm looking forward to reading about your results.

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About Nick Kindelsperger

Website: http://www.thepauperedchef.com

Location: Chicago, IL

About:

Favorite foods: Olives, fish tacos, shrimp etouffee, texas chili, and pizza.

Last bite on earth: Probably an olive, but don't hold me to it.