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Nick Kindelsperger's Profile

Website: http://www.thepauperedchef.com

Location: Columbus, Ohio

About:

Favorite foods: Olives, fish tacos, shrimp etouffee, texas chili, and jamon serrano.

Last bite on earth: Probably an olive, but don't hold me to it.

The Ten Most Recent Posts By Nick Kindelsperger

From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Pasta con la Verdura

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It wasn’t exactly a con job, but I did end up spending way too much for the fontina cheese at the local cheesemonger. The man was describing some heavenly stuff that he had just gotten in and I simply got mesmerized. It smelled wonderful and complex and agreed to a 1/2 pound before I even thought about asking the price. When the total came in over $10 I realized I had surpassed my intentions. My original goal was to sprinkle it over some broccoli...and that’s it. That’s an expensive side dish. Cheese this good needed a higher lot in life.

The fiancée actually remembered this recipe out of the well-worn Top One Hundred Pasta Sauces. She claims we had this dish before, and she’s usually right. But we definitely didn’t have it with fontina this good. The level of nutty, earthiness is incredible considering how little cheese is actually used. All the rest is vegetable goodness, and the zucchini, especially, adds some wonderful sweetness. It’s just another potato and pasta recipe that sounds illogical, and yet creates a dish like this one. The recipe's name translates simply as "Pasta with Green Vegetables," but it sounds so much better in Italian.

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From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Pork Chops with Mustard and Sour Cream Sauce

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I found Food and Wine's Recipes of 2000 as an aging, massive book amongst the library shelves and figured I could find something in there. But it almost has too much to choose from—it’s such a daunting task trying to sort through its hundreds of recipes. There are only pictures for a small percentage of the dishes, and the text is very small. I finally picked out this recipe for mustard and sour cream sauce to go with my pork chops because the sauce sounded wonderful. It uses two different kinds of mustard—something I’d never heard of that before, but it somehow works. The sauce is thick and rich, and the perfect vinegary counterpoint to the chops.

The technique for cooking the pork chops comes straight from Cook’s Illustrated. I’d always been disappointed with pork chops; they would undoubtedly end up dry and flavorless. While brining helps, this method work every time. You start with the chops in a cold pan and then then turn the heat to medium. Once they are browned on one side the heat drops to low and the cover goes on. It’s a little finicky, but by following these directions I’ve gotten moist, flavorful chops every time.

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From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Cauliflower Purée

20080509-dinnertonight.jpgI’ve been on a little cauliflower kick lately and just couldn’t turn down the possibility of what was essentially cauliflower mashed potatoes. Yep, it’s a holdout from the low-carb craze. But I didn’t care if it was healthy; I just wanted to see if it was worth it. I found the recipe in Ted Allen’s The Food You Want to Eat, and even he seems a little ashamed of it, regardless of the fact that it ended up being delicious.

And he’s right, the cauliflower puree never feels like a mashed potato rip-off. Instead it makes an earthier offering that’s perfect with lighter dishes like fish. To spruce up things Ted advises a few possible additions. He likes to add curry powder, English mustard, blue cheese or parmesan. I settled on the last item, adding huge grated handful at the very end. It won’t replace mashed potatoes on the Thanksgiving table, but might provide a lighter side to some grilling sessions.

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From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Cod with Pesto

You’ll definitely have some leftover pesto if you make this whole recipe, but that’s kind of the point. Pesto freezes remarkably well, and can be thawed in moments. Since I had made a large batch a week before, I was able to throw this meal together in approximately 10 minutes. Sure, my fish flaked apart into a hundred pieces when I tried to flip it, creating one of the uglier meals I’ve had in ages (that’s why there is no photo), but it was tasty.

I picked this from Jamie Oliver’s Jamie’s Dinners: The Essential Family Cookbook. And it’s not really a recipe as much of a technique. Have pesto? Jamie provides seven other simple meals to throw it on top of. That includes roast chicken, mussels, bruschetta, and grilled vegetables. I was feeling like fish. And the pesto certainly livens up the white fish, giving it an automatic freshness without much work at all.

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From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Chicken Breasts in Foil with Tomato, Olives, and Parmesan

I’ve heard about chicken wrapped in parchment paper, and even of chicken wrapped in foil. But the cooking of what is essentially chicken in a bag, had always (in my humble experience) taken place in the oven. I’ve never heard of chicken that’s sautéed in the foil bag on a skillet. It certainly was a weird feeling when I placed that foil package on top of a hot iron skillet and waited to see what would happen. Would it explode or catch on fire?

I actually wanted to do this recipe because of the foil balloon that Simple to Spectacular authors Mark Bittman and Jean Georges Vongerichten promised would happen. Because of the escaping steam, they said that the aluminum foil would puff up like a “Jiffy Pop”. But nothing much happened to mine. Perhaps it was the fact that I didn’t have the proper size of aluminum foil. They ask for the extra large 18-inch version; I only had the 12-inch kind. I ended up jamming in way too much chicken and perhaps didn’t seal the foil well enough. Either way, the loss of the spectacle was redeemed by extraordinary taste. The tomato gets flattened and kind of crispy, and all that Parmesan melts into a beautiful sauce that coats the rosemary-infused chicken.

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From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Spicy Southwest Mussels

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The fiancée wanted mussels; I wanted something spicy. So I plugged in spicy mussels into the Food Network’s website and found this Bobby Flay recipe for spicy southwest mussels that had heat, limes, and a whole lotta herbs. With the weather hovering in the 80s here in Ohio, this dish could be the perfect pre-summer version of mussels.

The fiancée and I dug in expecting to be bawled over by flavor—I was particularly excited about the acidic kick of the limes—but what we found was a little less engaging. Though all kinds of flavorings had gone in, it all combined to make a bland dish. Not offensive and gross, mind you, but just kind of unremarkable. Figuring I had nothing to lose, I squeezed some more fresh lime juice on top, and suddenly all those herbs perked up, the spice kicked in, and we finished the bowl in a matter of minutes.

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From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Broccoli Sautéed with Crisp Garlic

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Gordon Ramsay’s In the Heat of the Kitchen has been fun to look through, but I haven’t really been able to put it to much use. Most of the recipes seem rather complex for a hectic weekday night. So I was a little surprised to find this quick little broccoli recipe stuck between “Caramelized baby onions with beet jus” and “corn fritters with lime crème fraîche." With only eight ingredients, seven of which I had already, this proved to be a perfectly practical side.

While the crisp garlic is fun and those onions sure do add a lot of sweetness, what really separates this dish from a standard accompaniment is the oyster sauce. It somehow binds all the ingredients and transforms this into an interesting side dish worth paying attention to. It’s such a simple addition, too. This, of course, all depends on whether you have oyster sauce just hanging around the fridge ready to go in to random dishes. I do. Its cost is so small, and it keeps surprising me with dishes like this one.

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From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Roasted Cauliflower with Capers

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When I pulled this from the oven, I was livid. Both the cauliflower and capers came out looking awfully disappointing. And by “awfully disappointing,” I mean “burnt." I just couldn’t believe Martha Stewart, of all people, would construct such a disastrous mess of a recipe. I mean, you all can see this, right? Those little black balls are the capers. I almost chucked it right there.

Ends up all those crispy black bits are full-flavored goodness. I really should have known better. I had no use for cauliflower until I learned that it gets this wonderful nutty aroma when you roast the hell out of it. And this caper-assisted recipe is even easier than the curried version I had made before. The fiancée actually finished this before the meat course, forking up all those little black bits as quickly as possible.

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From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Grape and Feta Salad with Rosemary

20080425-dinnertonight.jpgI had to find something to do with my delicious leftover feta. While I wasn’t exactly worried about it going bad, I was afraid that I would attack the whole package with a fork without coming up for air. That’s not an appealing image.

Since I needed a little refinement, I searched all around my favorite sites for some kind direction. I still wanted the cheese to play a central role and didn’t want to spend much more money. This Cook's Illustrated salad felt perfect.

So, I had the fantastic feta, some plump grapes, and I even sprung for a new bottle of raspberry vinegar to properly dress the salad—but it was the small teaspoon of minced rosemary that really made the salad for me. The earthy notes of that herb provided the beautiful contrast to the fruity dressing. Instead of being cloying, the rosemary gave the whole salad balance. I'm always astounded by simple additions that focus a dish.

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From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Ribeye with Butter and Ginger Sauce

20080423-dinnertonight.jpgI usually reserve eating ribeye for when I am alone. When the fiancée is off interviewing for jobs and going to school, I’m home alone with a simply prepared steak and usually absolutely no vegetables. It’s simple, indulgent, and slightly embarrassing. The only flourish of cooking prowess was a pan sauce, most often made with red wine. Sometimes I didn’t even bother—too many times the sauce would come out bitter or too fatty. I needed some help.

According to Simple to Spectacular, this is as simple as pan sauces get. Luckily, it doesn’t really taste like it. The trick, I’ve learned, is to let the pan cool slightly and drain as much of the fat from the pan before deglazing. I’m always leery of adding anything extraneous to my steaks, but the ginger and soy never feel like they’re trying to steal the steak’s thunder. And that’s the way it should be. What the ginger and soy do for this recipe is accentuate some of the higher notes. The results tickle the back of your tongue instead of obscuring the seared goodness of a perfect steak.

This is also the first time I’ve ever not put salt on a steak. It felt weird. But the soy sauce more than made up for the missing sodium.

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The Ten Most Recent Comments By Nick Kindelsperger

From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Cold Sesame Noodles with Kimchi

From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Asparagus with Fried Egg and Parmesan

mbw1024: As a side dish, it served two people pretty well. This could have been because of our rather filliing main course, though.

From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Asparagus with Fried Egg and Parmesan

Oh, that is a good idea.

From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Broiled Chicken with Garlic Sauce

The sauce definitely has a tang. But it's not an unpleasant sensation. Believe me, I was worried, too.

From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Chicken Curry with Turmeric

Cheese Please: Yeah, the chicken thighs threw me off at first too. But yes, the bone should be left in. And the skin should stay on. I should have clarified that.

Mike Sims: thanks for the idea. I haven't experimented with grains of paradise, but I'm definitely interested. Thanks!

DeaconVolker: The tomatoes are there! They just reduced considerably over the 30 minute simmer.

From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Pan Roasted Chicken with Olives, Capers, and Vermouth

mrestko: Opps, my bad. Add the chicken stock along with the vermouth.

From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Turnip 'Risotto'

Believe me, I definitely had doubts, too. But I suppose just cutting back on the oil would be a responsible thing to do. The turnips are actually very mild and delicious.

From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Chorizo, Egg and Raisin Tacos

Elise: I'm still surprised the raisins worked so well. What a great combination of flavors. Thank your mom for me!

From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Chile Colorado

Both of your comments are probably right on. This is definitely the base, and then all kinds of different things could be added to develop the flavor. Chicken stock, especially, sounds like a perfect addition.

From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Curried Sautéed Cauliflower

I actually took the dish to a pot luck. We had other vegetarian delights, including a great squash lasagna. But I made sure to snag the leftovers of the cauliflower. And they did taste better the next day.

Responses to Comments by Nick Kindelsperger

From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Curried Sautéed Cauliflower

How strange, I just posted a roasted coconut curry cauliflower recipe today and then was reading my email feed of Serious Eats and saw curried cauliflower and roasted cauliflower! I have to try the Martha recipe with capers now.

From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Cold Sesame Noodles with Kimchi

Mmmm...kimchi! I like my kimchi and noodles with a fried egg. There's something about the softness of the yolk contrasting with heat of the peppers that comforts me right down to my soul.

From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Cold Sesame Noodles with Kimchi

we LOVE kimchi and i have recently started making it. i tried 3 different recipes and culled the best of ingredients and prep techniques from each recipe. I can't wait to try this; we usually eat kimchi with grilled fish or chicken- thank you for this recipe!

From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Cold Sesame Noodles with Kimchi

Yum! I love Kimchi.. I might have to try this tonight! Thank you!

From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Cold Sesame Noodles with Kimchi

That sounds good for the summer. I make this bokum bap all the time, and the fried egg mellows it out.

From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Cold Sesame Noodles with Kimchi

Wow, this recipe is pretty much my dream dish: kimchi and carbs.

Seriously, since I've found a Korean store that makes kimchi without fish sauce, I've been eating about a jar per week. Adding noodles is just going to double that.

From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Asparagus with Fried Egg and Parmesan

mbw1024: As a side dish, it served two people pretty well. This could have been because of our rather filliing main course, though.

From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Asparagus with Fried Egg and Parmesan

I think my most common weeknight dinner is a roasted vegetable (last night it was brussel sprouts) and either a fried or poached egg. My non-adventurous -eating roommate has learned what a poached egg is through my dinners. "Wait, you just put it in water? Like pasta?"

From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Asparagus with Fried Egg and Parmesan

serves 2 with 1 egg? somebody forgot something somewhere!

From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Asparagus with Fried Egg and Parmesan

one of my favorite breakfasts is cheese enchiladas with a couple of sunnyside-up eggs on top. of course, i live in the land of tex-mex, so this is pretty easy to procure in just about any mexican restaurant, even when it is not on the menu.