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NovaChild

The Burger Lab: Cheese Sauce for Burgers, Fries, and Chips

I just made this for the first time, after making a bechamel-based cheese sauce the other day and being fairly unsatisfied with the texture. I don't keep evaporated milk in the house, but I do keep dried milk, so I just whisked 1/3 cup (about 1 oz) of the dried milk with 4 oz of water, which gave me a little over 1/2 a cup of "thick" milk - enough to make half the recipe.

It worked! I had a little bit of graininess, I think partially because I didn't cook quite long enough and partially also because of the powdered milk, but it was way less than in a bechamel-based sauce. Delicious. Definitely my new go-to. Next time I may mix the dehydrated milk with regular milk instead of water to create extra-proteiny extra-rich deliciousness.

Anyone Tried Bittman's Pizza Crust Recipe?

I like the Bittman article. First of all, though I'm sure there is lots of very good pizza in New York, it's not particularly easy to find, is sometimes very expensive, and is often a bit of a hassle to get to and get depending on where you live. I lived there for six years, and only ate really good pizza 2 or 3 times because I lived on the Upper West Side - rather a long distance from anywhere worth eating. I ate at Sal and Carmine's a few times (though I never quite got the hype, it was tasty), and went to Di Fara once (again, good, but between the 1.5 hour public transit, the 1 hour wait, and the $5 slice, really not worth it for me). And many of the other well-regarded places were either too much work to get into or too expensive for me to really consider or, more likely, simply too far away from me.

I did eat an awful lot of bad to mediocre pizza in New York.

But what I love about the article is not the recipe (which I think would end up at least 60% hydration because if you follow the directions you'll add water until it comes together), but the easy-going flexible nature of it. I am not a serious pizza maker. I don't own a baking steel or a kettle pizza and never will (unless I win one here). I like your skillet-broiler method for Neopolitan-esque pizzas, and love the simplicity of your pan pizza dough, but I don't take pictures of the crust or analyze the char. Sometimes I knead your "no-knead" doughs so I don't have to wait as long. Sometimes I don't let my neopolitan dough rest in the fridge. Sometimes I use dough I bought at Trader Joes. Sometimes, I just use the basic bread dough recipe form "Artisan Bread in Five Minutes A Day" because it's possible to bake with it 2 hours after you start. Sometimes I mix herbs, even crappy dried herbs and garlic powder, into the dough. And you know what? It's always delicious.

That's what I liked about the article; the idea that it's actually really easy to make interesting things that you'll like more than whatever your crappy local option is. And crappy local options for pizza exist in every city.

Father's Day Giveaway: Win a KettlePizza Pro 22 Kit

Putting olives on them. Possibly only a mistake in my eyes.

Cook the Book: 'Ultimate Nachos'

Chicken nachos from Noche Mexicana on the UWS. They have carrots and pickled jalapeños and are generally amazing. Favorite takeout meal ever and I miss them immensely here in Nashville.

AHT Giveaway: Case of Pat LaFrieda Burgers

Not (usually) being able to get fancy toppings on thin patties. What if I want some fancy blue cheese arugula or whatever deliciousness on a burger that isn't bigger than my head?

AHT Giveaway: Case of Pat LaFrieda Burgers

Probably Shake Shack. The farm burger at The Pharmacy here in Nashville is pretty close.

The Food Lab Turbo: How To Make The Best Grilled Cheese Sandwich

I like Alton Brown's grilled cheese method enough that I haven't done anything else in a while. Two pre-heated cast iron skillets, spray the bread with olive or canola oil, grated cheese, a little bit of dijon mustard. Take both skillets off heat, put it in one skillet then put the other skillet on top. Walk away.

It's like the world's best panini press. It definitely makes a squishier sandwich than the standard grilled cheese unless you use a nice firm bread, but I like it immensely.

Ask the Critic: Where to Eat on the Upper East Side, Do You Send Back Awful Food?

The only restaurant I ever traveled to the UES to eat at was Candle 79, for a blowout vegan Thanksgiving that certainly proved to ME that you don't need meat for a giant delicious mind-blowing meal. I don't know what the place is like the rest of the year, but it's definitely worth trying.

Otherwise, I don't know. I worked on the UES (78th and Madison) for a long time, and never found a casual restaurant better than medicore (other than Shake Shake.) I barely even found INTERESTING options, and the few I did find weren't memorable and were overpriced.

What should I do with this amazing broth?

That would be good, but we actually ate all the pork already, separately, on sandwiches. That's pretty much my meat ration for the week.

Wilted Kale Salad - substitutions

I think collard greens would work pretty well in a wilted salad. I made one recently with beet greens, which I find to behave quite similarly to collards, and it was wonderful.

I doubt they'd stay quite as crisp as kale, but they'd stay much crisper than a traditional lettuce. Frankly, collards aren't as crisp as kale is when they're raw, so you're starting from a losing position.

Anyway, it certainly can't hurt to try it.

Favorite Yogurt

My first 8-10 attempts at making my own yogurt resulted in some pretty mediocre stuff (fine for my yogurt-ravenous baby and a major cost savings, but not particularly delicious or creamy), but I finally got my temperatures right and my last few batches have put all but the most expensive commercial yogurts to shame. Using Kroger store brand 2% milk, Kroger store brand greek yogurt as starter (starting fresh every 3-4 batches),and Kroger store brand powdered milk, it comes $3+$2.50+$0.80 = $6.30 per gallon of thick, creamy yogurt.

I skip the powdered milk about one out of every 3-4 batches, get basically the same result after straining (less yogurt, more time, less money - tradeoffs!), and refrigerate the whey to drink, mix with vodka/gin, and bake with.

Supermarket Smackdown

My local Kroger is completely and utterly mediocre, but I do the vast majority of my shopping there and get by. I will occasionally go to Whole Foods or a tiny neighborhood organic store for something a little higher quality (and frequent the farmer's market obsessively in the spring-autumn), but for weekly staples Kroger mostly gets me by. The exceptions are eggs, milk, and meat - I get them all from local sources, and big chains like Kroger don't carry them (the local Whole Foods does, as does my local butcher and some smaller stores).

I'm in a town with plenty of Publix's (though none within 10 miles of me), but the few times I've visited I've found them pricey. Yes, they have a nicer bakery, etc, but I make my own bread anyway.

What is the most expensive/least used tool in your kitchen?

Hmm. The stand mixer, probably, but I actually use it with fair frequency. I try really hard to avoid buying things I don't plan to use a lot. I've used my mandoline at least 10 times, and since it was a $15 model it is fine in the dollar-per-use department.

Actually, I've only used the meat grinder attachment for the stand mixer one time. Mostly because I've moved to eating meat only about once a week and get all my meat from a VERY local butcher who will gladly grind it for me (or sell me the pre-ground-but-just-that-day beef they keep on hand) if I need ground. I'll still use the meat grinder when I want to make burgers, but I only do that about once a year or so.

I only use my citrus juicer when I make pitchers of margaritas for parties, but at $20, using it to juice 30 limes even one time is worth it. And I also used it to juice enough key limes for a pie one time - REALLY earned its keep there.

The Food Lab: Fresh Ricotta in Five Minutes or Less

@mellyrn

Possibly late, but I don't think you can make ricotta from the yogurt whey. The protein, necessary to make the cheese, is all in the yogurt. This is why strained yogurt has a much higher protein content by weight than regular yogurt - straining the whey leaves the protein behind.

From what I've gathered, yogurt whey, rennet whey, and acid whey are all different wheys. Only the rennet whey can be made into ricotta because it still has a pretty high protein content.

If your yogurt whey has enough protein to make ricotta, you should be able to do it by heating the whey and mixing in acid, just like Kenji does in this recipe. You'll get a (very few) curds you can strain again to make ricotta. But it will taste yogurty, you definitely won't get much, and you'll still have whey!

I bake with the yogurt whey (it's a great buttermilk substitute for even lighter pancakes and biscuites) and eat it on oatmeal. It also makes a very refreshing cocktail mixed with a little sugar and some gin, believe it or not. But I have also reduced my whey amounts by mixing powdered milk in with my milk before making yogurt - I use a blender and don't get any textural issues, and the yogurt is significantly thicker straight out of inoculation, so I don't have to strain nearly as much to get real greek yogurt texture.

Pasta with Snap Peas, Garlic, Lemon Zest, and Black Pepper (vegan)

@bhorn I have been buying California Olive Ranch olive oil from my supermarket (a Kroger in Nashville - if you can get it here, I'm sure you can get it many places). I think it is a little richer and fruitier than Colavita, and is the same price range.

I'm making this pasta recipe tonight. Don't know what kind of veggie I'll use, but it sounds delicious with almost anything, so we'll see.

Crispy Buffalo Fried Cauliflower (Vegan)

But what do you use to replace the blue cheese?

Japanese Udon with Mushroom-Soy Broth with Stir-fried Mushrooms and Cabbage (Vegan)

I made this tonight, with a few small (mostly accidental or circumstantial) changes. I used porcinis instead of morels because I always have them on hand (I buy them by the pound from Amazon) and I think I accidentally bought the wrong mushrooms at my Asian market. Nothing was labeled "woodear" but there were bags of both "black fungus" and "black and white" fungus that both looked a bit like the dried version of the fresh wood ears they had in the produce section. I went with the black and white almost randomly, and ended up with some rehydrated mushrooms that were very thin and very wide - like small coffee filters, almost. They were rather chewy, but tasty, and the broth was delicious, so even though I don't think they were actually woodears I consider it a success! Next time I will try the "black fungus" and compare.

I also couldn't find pre-fried tofu at my Asian market (I think they were just out as I saw where it would normally live) so I fried my own. I used white peppered panko and an egg wash, thus destroying the veganocity, but it sure was delicious!

The broth is definitely mushroomy, so if you don't like mushrooms look elsewhere. But if you enjoy the mushroom-umami, this recipe will definitly satisfy your stomach.

The Vegan Experience: How to Stock a Vegan Pantry

Im not vegan, but Trader Joes meatless meatballs are actually great if you never ever think of them as meat and pretend they were just sold as crumbled soy protein. They fall apart nicely in pasta sauce and add great texture and protein - honestly a simple tomato sauce with several of these crumbled in it is a great simple spaghetti sauce and superior to every "quick ragu" I have ever made with beef. Not better than a real multi hour ragu, of course, but it takes 20 minutes or less.

The Pizza Lab: Foolproof Pan Pizza

Tonight, I made Green Pan Pizza by modifying this dough (I reduced amounts, kneaded a bit to save some rise time, and added some herbs directly to the dough to boost flavor since I had no cheese) and combining it with a favorite veggie pizza recipe.

Oh. My. God. It was so good. I ate way more than my stomach wanted because I couldn't bear to leave it not eaten. I will be making lots of pan pizza in the near future, and I highly recommend everybody try a pesto-topped pizza with this method! Amazing.

Spicy, Smoky Bean Cakes with Lime Slaw and Charred Avocado

Spicy! My wife thought these tasted overwhelmingly of chipotle. I agreed though I enjoy that taste so wasn't as offended. We both loved the texture so next time I will reduce the chipotle by half or more, and possibly reduce the lime in the slaw a bit.

A Sandwich a Day: Tilapia at Rainbo's Fish

I really like the taste of tilapia. Even the super-cheap individually frozen fillets from Kroger. I cook it extremely simply - dredge in salted peppered flour, pan-fry in a couple of tablespoons of butter, add a little squeeze of lemon and possibly some capers if I'm feeling fancy - and it's great. I eat it, cooked just like that, once or twice a week.

In Nashville, there are a few places I can get really good fresh fish - a couple of guys that drive it up from the coast every few days, for example - but it costs a minimum of $16/pound, and usually way more. The tilapia is $9.99 for a 30 oz bag. If I could have decent wild-caught Mahi-Mahi instead, at a similar price, I would. But I can't.

Seriously Delicious Holiday Giveaway: La Quercia's Pork Belly Heaven Package

Sliced very thin on a neopolitan pizza.

Holiday Giveaway: The Amazing Thermapen Thermometer

Gift Guide: Books For The Kitchen Nerd

When will we get the Food Lab cookbook to add to this list?

I got the Cooks Illustrated book as an early present from a friend, and it really is a cut above their other works in terms of food science - much better than I was expecting and very well laid out. The vast majority of the recipes are already in other books, bu the science isn't collected anywhere else.

Seriously Delicious Holiday Giveaway: Counter Culture Coffee Subscription

Black, paper filtered.

What should I do with this amazing broth?

So today, I made this slow-cooker pork shoulder recipe (yes, I know that it probably shouldn't be called barbecue, but it delicious nonetheless). In addition to leftover barbecue sauce, I also strained and skimmed the fat from nearly 3 quarts of the broth that the pork cooked in for 8 hours.

The broth is part apple juice, part chicken stock, part pork-juice, and part onion-juice. It is sweet, like really good onion soup, with lots of onion flavor and plenty of meaty backbone from the chicken stock and pork. It's also pretty well seasoned from the dry rub on the pork and the bay leaf and thyme combo called for in the recipe.

Honestly, I would happily just eat it as is for my next meal, but my wife is not as fond of broth-with-nothing-in-it, so I'm looking for suggestions; what should I add to this broth to make a filling, hearty soup? At this point I'm leaning towards embracing the onion-soupness of it all and caramelizing some onions with Kenji's super-fast method, stirring them in, and adding cheesy croutons, but I'd love other ideas to knock around.

Anybody made a good Thermapen clip?

Has anybody found or made a good clip for their Thermapen, to clip it to the side of a pan candy-thermometer style?

I'm currently jamming it into my Trudeau pot clip, but it doesn't quite fit right, and I have to turn the pot clip nearly perfectly sideways to get the probe into the pot which reduces stability. If any of you have a good DIY design, I'd love to hear about it / see pictures. Google was NOT my friend.

P.S. I learned the other day that if you accidentally drop your splash-proof Thermapen in a pot full of 300 degree oil, it can survive! I do have some cracks all around the casing (and a couple of small ones on the display), and the probe opened and closed VERY smoothly for a couple of weeks, but it still functions!