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The Power of Food Blogging
Hey Adam, I thought you'd be interested (and maybe others too) in this article on our local food critic here in Toronto...his publisher thought it'd be a gas to dress up his food critic and take him back to all the restaurants he's reviewed in the past... http://www.torontolife.com/features/guess-whos-coming-dinner/
Enjoy - Nicola
The Power of Food Blogging
In activity to the inquire into of whether or not accepting freebies compromises journalistic integrity, I rest assured de facto depends. In this essay, Adam is strikingly not giving Le Cirque a lambent review. To me, this legend appears uncompromising; Adam hackneyed the free lunch meal, yet placid told us what was on his mind.
The Power of Food Blogging
Just what the world needs, 100,000 amateur food critics...OMG! Scarey. If you want to be a critic why not declare open season on all computer companies who haven't perfected a computer to be compatible with MS. What about retail stores who repackage returned (often faulty) merchandise and sell it as new. Consumer goods that don't work or fall apart within a short time. What about lousy service in stores and government offices. Why pick on restaurants. If you really want to know something about restaurants get a job in one for a few months, then lets hear your "critique." When you're "critiquing," restaurants, ask yourself what kind of job your doing when you're at work...Man...make me soooo crazy...Why does EVERYONE wanna be food critique. Go have another hamburger. Then get a life.
The Power of Food Blogging
If you are reviewing a restaurant I don't really think it right to take a free meal. In any other profession that would get you fired. Did you know that you were called a “a world-class mooch" by and article in the NY Mag?
The Power of Food Blogging
You go! It is refreshing to see that "ordinary people" can have a voice in deciding what is great dining and what is not. If only fashion were as responsive! Bloggers are not just amateur reviewers. They provide information not only for foodies, but to real people who are just learning the joys (and the power) of good food. There are enough culinary resources out there that intimidate and discourage readers from having fun with food and thus developing healthy eating habits, using food to draw families and friends together. I will be checking back often to see how you are stirring things up!
Deborah Dowd
http://play-with-food.blogspot.com/
The Power of Food Blogging
Both your experiences just go to show what can be so frustrating for diners--those who are deemed "special" i.e. food bloggers, with their increasing power over the life and death of a restaurant, get special treatment. It doesn't matter that everyone in that restaurant is paying an exorbitant amount for their dinner, only those who are of interest are treated well. It just reinforces to me how much I want to avoid restaurants like that.
The Power of Food Blogging
Unfortunately, you were outed..something a good reviewer never wants. The folks @ Le Cirque knew it and they "worked" you.
You are so good at the graphics ( kind of a Robert Crumb of the food blogger world- a complement). That's an area no one does as well as you. Mexican novela meets Warhol meets foodie, cool stuff!
Folks like Schrambling and Michael Bauer are still incognito. And no one has ever seen Kim Pierce from the Dallas Morning News ( dont even know if Kim is a girl or a guy). Now that's under the radar.
But you are an entertaining fellow! Keep the fun coming.
The Power of Food Blogging
You raise a good point, csl. There are governance and transparency issues that need to be thought out carefully. For our site (http://nycnosh.com), we try to remain as anonymous as possible and to keep the photography quick and done in a way that disturbs nobody. That said, we've been asked a few times about who we were and whether or not we plan to write about the food we're eating, and of course the only ethical answer is 'yes.' So we try to return to a restaurant without the camera to determine if we can spot a difference in service or food. We'll also chat with people sitting near us sometimes, just for a bit of reference, and on the rare occasions when a chef has sent us something unusual just to impress us, it becomes apparent pretty quickly.
The Power of Food Blogging
I think an article about the new power of food bloggers might want to consider what responsibility accompanies that new power, and I don't think that Adam has. What happens when his low profile, which had been a large part of what made his blog so charming and interesting, is no more? Should he pretend that nothing has changed? Should he accept free meals from Alain Ducasse and Sirio Maccioni without much (or any) soul-searching? Should he, like Shelley of Pink House, accept (almost ask for) post-review gifts without disclosing this to his readers? I guess it's fun to find that bloggers have power, but less fun to discover that maybe this should change how they go about their work.
The Power of Food Blogging
a couple of months ago when i dined at eleven madison park (the new chef is one of my faves), my dining companion tongue-in-cheekly blurted out "she's a food critic" to our waiter. even though i quickly said "no i'm not !" , and i had no camera and took no notes, halfway through our meal the chef daniel humm came out to our table to say hello.
3 months prior to that, when i dined there with another companion who had called ahead to pre-arrange a 13 course tasting menu to go with some special wines he had brought, the chef did not come out to say hello to us even though this was a much more expensive meal.
chefs and restauranteurs are aware of the power of public opinion to impact the success or failure of their restaurant, whether from a paid writer or an unpaid blogger, it's part marketing, self preservation and common sense. let's face it, most people with jobs treat their bosses who sign their paychecks with more respect than their co-workers , so the concept of "VIP's" exist everywhere in life, not just in a pricy restaurant.
go bloggers !!
The Power of Food Blogging
Adam, I still don't understand why you expect good food at Le Cirque. Food isn't what it's selling. You might as well complain that the snacks at Great Adventure are nutritionally unbalanced. What people go to Le Cirque for is what you got the second time you arrived, and what the common gourmet-on-the-street will only get if he/she writes a scathing blog review!
The Power of Food Blogging
But is this a good thing? You left Le Cirque this time with a better impression of the restaurant and the Maccioni family because they treated you like a celebrity, but they only did that because you embarassed them the first time and because they now know that people read your blog. If they really cared about anonymous customers, you would have been treated well to begin with.
The free meal demonstrates the power of blogging, but it doesn't get the Le Cirque staff off the hook for being jerks. I doubt they treated every customer so well that night, and someone will always have to take the loser table. We can either support these places or not. If I get an invitation to a free meal in response to a bad review, I just ignore it. Let the restaurant prove itself to new customers.
The Power of Food Blogging
Shelley (Pink House) - one answer is that you could have simply said no thanks to the offers that came to you via e-mail. They couldn't have shipped you that "thank you" gift without your explicit cooperation by supplying your mailing address. Is it a bribe or a thank you gift? I only set my ethical meter for myself, no one else. Only you can answer that.
I used to write for a local media outlet and all I can tell you is that I never accepted anything from anybody because I never wanted the possibility to exist that by doing so it could cloud my judgement.
Re what to read before choosing a restaurant - I go with the "preponderance of evidence theory." Which means I rely on lots of opinions and then my own knowledge and gut.
The Power of Food Blogging
Interesting. I've been blogging about restaurant meals for about two years...and I've never received an email or letter from restaurant management about any article. And yes, I am a nobody. However, this past summer about two weeks after I wrote a positive post about a product that I'd purchased, I received an email from a VP in their corporate headquarters thanking me for the positive publicity and asking for my shipping address so that they might send me a thank you gift. It arrived about a week later...more products totaling about $50. I never mentioned THAT in my blog.... This also happened when I wrote a positive review of a shop that I had visited and liked. I received an email, and then later a gift card for that shop. Again, I didn't write more about it. So when is it a "thank you gift" and when is it a "bribe"?
Also - I use food bloggers' restaurant reviews almost exclusively before I travel to decide where to make reservations. I especially like it when there are photos. I much prefer a "real person's" (like me) honest review over a professional food critic. Before my last trip to New York, I read through Amateur Gourmet and Gotham Gal's blogs to select my restaurant choices (rather than reading the NY Times reviews).
The Power of Food Blogging
A few years ago, I complained in a New York Times forum that I was rushed at Restaurant Daniel's and did not enjoy my meal because of the hurried spacing of my meal. Some time later, I received a letter, signed by Daniel Boulud, that offered an apology and an invitation to return to the restaurant for a free meal. Pretty classy all around. I did go back to the restaurant but not as "the guest of the house." The absolutely fabulous meal was more than worth it.
As for Le Cirque, while we did not register on Mr. Maccioni's "important person" scale, we encountered a most accommodating and professional staff whose service was impeccable.
I usually try to stay away from restaurants that are well known to fawn over "personalities" and treat "regular people" like a nuisance, they are simply not worth it. In my experience, there are many great restaurants that treat all customers excellently. It is a good development that bloggers are now keeping score of both types of restaurants. Hopefully readers will eat out accordingly.
The Power of Food Blogging
Let's talk about the power food bloggers have now to direct the diner's dollar. I think that's what chefs and restaurateurs are beginning to recognize. It's all about business baby and we, increasingly, have the power to put people in restaurant seats. When you're looking for a restaurant, especially in a city as restaurant-rich as New York, do you pay closer attention to the recommendation of someone like Frank Bruni or to a food blogger? I listen the the food bloggers because they feel more like my peers than a Frank Bruni ever will.
The Power of Food Blogging
I think this really has less to do with the power of food blogging (because, if, let's say Frank Bruni had a bad experience, wouldn't they want him to reappraise it as well?) and more to do with Le Cirque being in the wrong by having such a severe VIP policy, and realizing it themselves. Does the average Le Cirque diner not have as discerning a palate or as much of a desire for a well-hosted meal than a food-blogger?
The Power of Food Blogging
After reading this I went back to the original "review" from September. Taken together, the two pieces suggest that (a) the author was originally upset about the fact that VIPs get special treatment at Le Cirque (b) the author is now happy to receive special treatment at Le Cirque as a VIP. A direct quote, "... we enjoyed the 'star treatment,' if you could call it that, and savored the evening for what it was."
The thing is, as your readership grows, you can't really call yourself a "nobody" or an amateur anymore. With increased readership and influence come increased responsibility. And, obviously, scrutiny.
The Power of Food Blogging
In response to the question of whether or not accepting freebies compromises journalistic integrity, I think it depends. In this essay, Adam is clearly not giving Le Cirque a glowing review. To me, this article appears uncompromising; Adam accepted the free meal, yet still told us what was on his mind.
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Hey Adam, I thought you'd be interested (and maybe others too) in this article on our local food critic here in Toronto...his publisher thought it'd be a gas to dress up his food critic and take him back to all the restaurants he's reviewed in the past... http://www.torontolife.com/features/guess-whos-coming-dinner/
Enjoy - Nicola