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From Serious Eats

Top Chef: What It's Like to Be a Diner at the Taping

"Tofu is one of the most processed foods on earth" is a bit of a misstatement, since when we read "processed" we think "massive factories and chemicals." It was and is no more nor less "processed" than kimchi, pickles, hominy or poi; in the case of tofu and poi the aim is to remove toxins and render the nutrients edible and digestible. Whether it's done by hand, as it has been for over a thousand years, or done in, yes, a massive factory, the process is essentially the same and differs only in detail.

As for the notion that eating tofu will lead to male sterility, if that were true it would certainly limit Chinese population growth; I don't see any signs of that at all, do you?

From Recipes

How to Make Crème Fraîche (in One Easy Step!)

Against all the reasons posted as to why it can't possibly work, all of the crème fraiche I've made since reading about the process in the mid-eighties has been generated from pasteurized, sometimes super-pasteurized, ingredients. Cream, sour cream, lowfat cultured buttermilk, yogurt … it all works, it's all good. Simply allowing sour cream, which you can't reduce with heat, to spend time thickening sweet cream in a lightly-covered bowl in a warm place, results in a kind of sour cream you can reduce with heat. How? Ask Harold McGee, because I don't know. It just dammit does.

Without a doubt the most ridiculous statement about homemade crème fraiche was from the author of an otherwise useful book, called (I think) "When French Women Cook." She states flatly that it's impossible to make real crème fraiche anywhere but in France. Why? Because it's different every place in France. If you figure out the logic behind that, get back to me on it, will you?

From Recipes

Kentucky Hot Brown

That is just about exactly the real, authentic recipe from the Brown Hotel in Louisville, and of all the variations I've seen I don't think it's ever been really improved on. My own preference is to split a long crusty roll to make a side-by-side double, and to lay slices of tomato over the turkey and cover all that with the Mornay sauce. I also chop some scallions, both white and green parts, and garnish with those.

There are lots of variations built on this, some better than others; my favorite of those by far is a seafood version with crabmeat and scallops. If you're using the long roll as I do you can also substitute the filled omelet of your choice for the turkey.

From Serious Eats

SE Staff Picks: What's Your Worst Hangover Food?

My hangovers are about my liver; after 50+ years of drinking I've finally realized that my sentimental attachment to Comfort Breakfasts (bacon, eggs, hashbrowns, and gravy all over everything) is profoundly the wrong urge to follow. Lots of cranberry juice and some oatmeal, yes. Even scrambled eggs, as long as they're not awash in bacon grease. Nothing on this earth will stop the agony, but all that fatty, greasy, "yummy" stuff will certainly prolong it.

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From Serious Eats

Top Chef: What It's Like to Be a Diner at the Taping

"Tofu is one of the most processed foods on earth" is a bit of a misstatement, since when we read "processed" we think "massive factories and chemicals." It was and is no more nor less "processed" than kimchi, pickles, hominy or poi; in the case of tofu and poi the aim is to remove toxins and render the nutrients edible and digestible. Whether it's done by hand, as it has been for over a thousand years, or done in, yes, a massive factory, the process is essentially the same and differs only in detail.

As for the notion that eating tofu will lead to male sterility, if that were true it would certainly limit Chinese population growth; I don't see any signs of that at all, do you?

From Recipes

How to Make Crème Fraîche (in One Easy Step!)

Against all the reasons posted as to why it can't possibly work, all of the crème fraiche I've made since reading about the process in the mid-eighties has been generated from pasteurized, sometimes super-pasteurized, ingredients. Cream, sour cream, lowfat cultured buttermilk, yogurt … it all works, it's all good. Simply allowing sour cream, which you can't reduce with heat, to spend time thickening sweet cream in a lightly-covered bowl in a warm place, results in a kind of sour cream you can reduce with heat. How? Ask Harold McGee, because I don't know. It just dammit does.

Without a doubt the most ridiculous statement about homemade crème fraiche was from the author of an otherwise useful book, called (I think) "When French Women Cook." She states flatly that it's impossible to make real crème fraiche anywhere but in France. Why? Because it's different every place in France. If you figure out the logic behind that, get back to me on it, will you?

From Recipes

Kentucky Hot Brown

That is just about exactly the real, authentic recipe from the Brown Hotel in Louisville, and of all the variations I've seen I don't think it's ever been really improved on. My own preference is to split a long crusty roll to make a side-by-side double, and to lay slices of tomato over the turkey and cover all that with the Mornay sauce. I also chop some scallions, both white and green parts, and garnish with those.

There are lots of variations built on this, some better than others; my favorite of those by far is a seafood version with crabmeat and scallops. If you're using the long roll as I do you can also substitute the filled omelet of your choice for the turkey.

From Serious Eats

SE Staff Picks: What's Your Worst Hangover Food?

My hangovers are about my liver; after 50+ years of drinking I've finally realized that my sentimental attachment to Comfort Breakfasts (bacon, eggs, hashbrowns, and gravy all over everything) is profoundly the wrong urge to follow. Lots of cranberry juice and some oatmeal, yes. Even scrambled eggs, as long as they're not awash in bacon grease. Nothing on this earth will stop the agony, but all that fatty, greasy, "yummy" stuff will certainly prolong it.

From Recipes

Homemade Crunchy Nutella

Umm, "reserve pod for another use", and then below that "Combine water, sugar, vanilla bean seeds, honey or corn syrup, and minced vanilla bean ...". Was that the "other use"?

I know, picky, picky. But inconsistencies aside this looks wonderful, and I don't even DO sweets. At least not in this universe. H'mmm ...

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Homemade Mayo In 2 Minutes Or Less (Video)

I've been making it in my elderly Cuisinart since - well, since it wasn't elderly (and I wasn't either!), with zero problems except when I tried making it during a thunderstorm (that is NOT an old wives' tale, turns out). The pusher tube has a tiny little orifice meant for exactly that purpose, metering the first half-cup of oil. In the bowl I put one whole egg, a tsp of mustard, two scant Tbs of lemon juice or vinegar (or one of each), a pinch of salt, and about a Tbs of the oil - you'll want 1 1/2 cups of oil total; I typically use half canola and half olive. Everything at room temp. Run the machine for a minute, pour four ounces of the oil into the pusher tube, let it drool until it's all gone, then remove the pusher and start pouring the rest of the oil in a thin stream. This makes roughly a pint of buttery-thick mayonnaise. My favorite variation is to drop one or two peeled cloves of garlic into the running machine before doing anything else.

Having said all that, I can hardly wait to try it with my stick blender. While the Cuisinart let me make great mayo very easily, it's still a bit tedious and a pig to clean up (although licking the scraper paddle eases the annoyance quite a bit!).

From Serious Eats

The Best Way To Eat Breakfast at McDonald's

Add me to the chorus of hundreds - and here I thought I was the only one! - who go for the twofer Sausage McMuffin and potato-ize it; in my case I get the eggs and one hash brown, break that in half and insert each piece between cheese and muffin, then devour. No, the hash browns aren't particularly good by themselves, but in the sandwich they lend crunch and aroma (oh, and carbs too, like I really needed those!). I don't do this often, but if I have to be on the road before breakfast this is my ritual.

From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Pan Bagnat

We had those in Nice - got some to take out on a relative's boat, and they were delicious. These did not have anchovies, but tuna; the filling, as the relative explained to us, was essentially Salade Niçoise without the potatoes or haricots verts. The rolls were a coarse-textured, crusty rounded oblong, giving a sandwich about the size of a very large patty-melt. That was twenty years ago; don't know if I could eat a whole one today, but I wouldn't mind trying!

From Recipes

Great Deviled Eggs

I've been making them with nothing more than a bit of salt and Trader Joe's wasabi mayonnaise, though Mrs. O wants a dash of green food coloring just for fun. Only one dozen at a time, and all by hand: the yolks get rubbed through a wire strainer, and then the mayo is beaten in by hand until the appropriate gooeyness is achieved. We then use a decorator tube with no tip on it to fill the whites; there's always enough filling to overfill and still have some left for "dessert" (mine!). Then we finish by sprinkling smoked paprika on top. Lovely flavor combo, and the bright red over green is very cool.

Your homemade mayo and oil looks pretty nice too. As for curry in there, so many people were doing that twenty years ago I almost swore off curry for life.

From Recipes

Pimento Cheese

I never suspected this stuff existed until I moved to Nashville. Spent most of my time there living within a mile or two of the Mrs. Grissom's factory, maker of just about every store-bought rendition of the compound sold in that part of the world. I'm originally from Illinois and was brought up to distrust any compound such as this, unless it came in a jar with the Kraft label on it. My wife hates sweet peppers of any kind, especially pimentos. We are both just crazy about this stuff anyway.

From Slice

A Pizza Snob's Approach To Toppings

About "cured": if simply salted meats are cured, then can anyone explain all those packages of bacon and hot dogs at Trader Joe's labelled proudly as "Uncured"? And just why it is anyone should want to buy them?

Re: "canned mushrooms are evil", and similar pronouncements: a very popular and famous (if controversial amongst the foodie population) pizzeria in Eagle Rock, Casa Bianca, was begun and run for 50-some years by an old-school guy who insisted, right up until he died a while back, that the ONLY mushrooms that belong on a pizza are canned ones. And those are the only ones available on any Casa Bianca pizza. Aside from the fact that they're traditional and fresh ones aren't, he noted that fresh mushrooms get all dried out and crackly instead of simply cooking a bit as the canned ones do.

As for my own tastes, I agree with most of J. Kenji's thesis. I would add, however, that I consider the anchovy to be a vital ingredient for most pizzas; while I don't want them on every kind, I want to have the option, and any pizzeria that does not offer them is in my estimation no pizzeria at all.

From Serious Eats

Staff Picks: Our Favorite Cereals

Grape Nuts, but with a pre-soak in some half-and-half, then a bit of sugar and the 2%. Wheat Chex when I'm being virtuous, Corn Chex when I want to indulge. (I remember when wheat was all there was, and it was called Ralston!) I bet I'd still like Kix …

Sugar Pops were the first pre-sweetened cereal. Since we were restricted by parental fiat to ONE TEASPOON of sugar to the bowl of cereal, my mother was horrified at this sugary mess and wouldn't let it in the house, though plain puffed wheat was frequently on the table. Cooked cereal was something she had no talent for - it always came out lumpy, so steel-cut oats was a revelation to me. I love that too, with butter, salt and pepper, plus a bit of brown sugar.

From A Hamburger Today

What Defines a Gastropub Burger?

Plate 38 in Pasadena just about fills that bill, I think. Don't know about the ketchup, since I never touch the stuff, but the cheeseburger I got there was the most overall satisfactory one I've paid money for - not PERFECT in any one way, just excellent in sum: flavorful beef, cooked precisely to the medium-rare I requested; good tomato, good lettuce, brilliant pickle on the side; great cheese and a brioche bun exactly the size of the 6-ounce* patty. None of this is exactly how I'd specify my idea of perfection, but in ensemble it was perfectly done. Under ten bucks, too.

* I notice the burger is now 8 ounces, and it's $7. Guess I'll just have to go back …

From Talk

Annoying Lunch Habits of Coworkers

There was one guy I worked with - and this was in a small room with just three of us - who would stand in the middle of the room and eat as loudly as possible, smacking and slurping and crunching, while carrying on a (usually one-sided) conversation. If it was a between-meal snack, of which he ate many, he would stand behind one of us and watch what we were working on, almost leaning on our shoulders; he seemed to have no concept of "personal space" at all. More than once he dribbled crumbs on me, which he thought was really funny. Even the most pointed objections to any of this rolled right off him; he'd give his bland smile and (for the tenth time that day) say, "Oh, you're saying I'm rude, crude and socially unacceptable?"

In many ways I enjoyed working in an office or studio environment, and usually liked many of my co-workers and got along okay with most of them, even the serious b***holes, but there were those few who justified Sartre's definition of Hell. Now I have only myself to annoy me …

From Talk

Eating at Someone Else's House

We've eaten regularly with friends whose cats cannot be kept off the counters, one chef/restaurant owner whose home kitchen is a sticky smelly mess, one neat freak whose kitchen is spotless but who honestly can't cook, and (many years ago) countless neighborhood moms with wildly divergent views about what "acceptably clean" and "acceptable food" meant. I grew up attending so many potlucks, the best being a giant two-family reunion (of two very intertwined German Mennonite families, yum yum!!), that the prospect of sharing other people's food and/or sharing my own has always been a happy one to me. And I must say that the only case of food-borne illness I've ever had was one I gave myself!

From A Hamburger Today

Reality Check: The Comté Burger at McDonalds, France

Okay, I can get both rolls like that and Comté cheese at Trader Joe's. I am SOOO going to do that! Not with either salad cream or MW, though …

From Talk

I *did* eat it as a kid...and I never stopped!

Braunschweiger, Swiss cheese and sliced hard-boiled egg sandwich on homemade white bread, smear of mustard and plenty of mayonnaise. It was a flash of inspiration by either my mom or grandma, but it was an instant hit with me and so remains.

Aside from that: tuna-noodle casserole made with cream of mushroom soup, Kraft Dinner with or without sliced hot dogs, creamed eggs and chipped beef on toast, Spam dipped in egg and cornflake crumbs and fried, canned corned beef hash and eggs. Mrs. O grew up eating her dad's gourmet fare, mostly French, poor kid, so I had to introduce her to most of these delights. She was delighted.

From Talk

Care to introduce yourself?

I'm 70, and I'm enjoying it more every day. Still the family cook, get to putter at it all day if I want to; to me the term "golden years" refers to the color of long-braised pork shoulder, or a good batch of biscuits. Used to design stuff, draw pictures, write and edit for a living, still do as much of that as comes my way. Have a nice old house with Mrs. O in Pasadena, CA; a brother, a son and a grandbaby in Nashville I get to see once a year and friends all over. To keep busy I have that aforementioned old house and a couple of rather less elderly Alfa Romeos. Got great health, most of my original parts, and senior discounts out the gazoo. Life is good …

From A Hamburger Today

In-N-Out vs. Five Guys vs. Shake Shack: The First Bi-Coastal Side-By-Side Taste Test

It was a moment of joy for me when I saw Julia Child being interviewed on her 90th birthday, and she told us that she always carried in her purse a list of every In-N-Out between San Diego and Santa Barbara. My first one was a 60th birthday present to myself; I don't have them very often (ten years later!) but they never disappoint. Yes, I've had much better, but the last great one I had for this kind of money was in Oklahoma in 1960. That they can give us so much for so little, and still treat their people so well, ought to be a lesson to more than a few burger chains.

From Serious Eats

Snapshots from Amsterdam: The Best Street Food

Out here in SoCal we have an excellent source for aged Gouda, the Westminster Dairy 'way down south near Temecula. An honest-to-Pete Dutch farm out in the desert! Or at least what looks a lot like a desert … They grow their own milk and make it into six or eight different subsets of Gouda, some plain and some flavored (garlic, herbs, smoked), but the aged ones are my faves, with a great depth of flavor and those lovely crunchy crystals. On a hammering-hot summer day their nice cool showroom, complete with friendly attendant in full Dutch costume, is a real treat, as are the cheese samples.

From Recipes

Sunday Brunch: Salade Niçoise

I may be preaching to the choir here - I'd like to think so! - but PLEEEEEASE everyone, resist any temptation you might have to "improve" this by substituting fresh tuna, as I've seen suggested (or even insisted on) in too many newspaper and magazine articles. This salad and vitello tonnato are two dishes invented after the advent of canned tuna, and depend on that for authentic flavor and texture.

And second the motion for pan bagnat, probably the best lunch-on-bread ever devised!

From A Hamburger Today

The Burger Lab: What's The Best Way To Grind Beef?

I have two KA grinders, an old Swedish-made forged steel one from the '30s and a Hobart-made plastic one from (judging from the box graphics) the '70s. I bought the latter because the old one came with only the fine plate, and this one was part of a huge bargain we got on a refurbished '50s K5B. While the steel one is probably immortal and the plastic one emphatically is not, the newer one is easier to mount and use, and much easier to clean. Although we have a dishwasher, I've washed by hand all my life, including a stint as a professional "pearl diver", and have no real problem getting either grinder clean. Put the disassembled grinder in plenty of hot water and soap immediately after using it, soak it well while you're doing something else, then use a good bottle brush, plastic scrubber or whatever, rinse it well and dry it thoroughly.

I've been using it just for sausage, but will grilling season upon us I'm taking Kenji's suggestions to heart. Thanks!

From Serious Eats

The Four High End Steaks You Should Know

All the T-bones and porterhouses I've had have been either panfried or flat-grilled; that was the first real steak I ever ate, and remains my all-around favorite. Flame-grilling is fun to do, but the only reason I cook most of my steaks that way nowadays is the fan in my range hood is kaput, and our hard-wired smoke alarm calls the security company! It's really not my favorite way to cook beef at all.

A good choice or prime bone-in ribeye is pretty good too. I have had some tasty filets, but they were carefully dry-aged then flat-grilled with good bacon around them. Straight from the store they're a waste of plate space and money.

From Serious Eats

Los Angeles: 14 Sandwiches We Love for $6 and Under

One sandwich too few! I'm sure those are all quite lovely, but the best sandwich I've ever had for under $6 is the sandwich - that's THE SANDWICH - made by Rosario at Roma Deli in Pasadena. Crusty roll split, each half drizzled with olive oil, then two or three slices each of mortadella, provolone, and however many are needed of coppa and salami. That's it. He wraps it, asks if there's anything else, and you go pay $5.50, take it off to your lair and devour it. Moaning and/or growling optional.

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