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From Serious Eats

Have You Tried Modernist Cuisine at Home?

Indeed, I'm working my way through MC as well, and am greatly inspired by it. It adds so much context and reliable info to what has been somewhat of a confusing set of resources in the past. Here's my take on the famous MC caramelized carrot soup: http://bit.ly/pFzFsi.

From Recipes

Yaki Onigiri

Not so sure about the advice to leave rice out at room temperature for several hours. The general safety rule is no more than 2 hours in the danger zone from 40-140 degrees F.

From Recipes

Sunday Brunch: St. Louis Gooey Butter Cake

Interesting... I'd never heard of GBC before, and then I happened to see a prepackaged snack of them at Walgreens the other day. I'm not normally tempted by plastic wrapped drug store snacks, but this one was odd enough ("St Louis style Gooey Butter Cake" ?!?) that I was tempted, though I fought it off. Odd to see it here just a couple days later, now I know what it really is. Thank you!

From Recipes

Quesadilla Fritas (Fried Quesadillas) with Pickled Jalapeños, Cilantro, and Chipotle Crema

This same method works awesome with corn tortillas. Frying with enough oil makes all the difference. I've written about it here: http://www.herbivoracious.com/2008/07/quesadilla.html

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Recent Posts

From Photograzing

Saag with Kale and Collard Greens

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Kala Chana (Black Chickpea Curry)

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Quick Marinated Feta with Orange, Mint and Aleppo Pepper

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Pan Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Shiitakes and Smoked Paprika

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Seriously Meatless: Fresh Tagliatelle with Green Beans, Rainbow Chard, and Aged Goat Cheese

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MichaelNatkin got 33% correct on How Much Do You Know About Condiments?

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Recent Comments

From Serious Eats

Have You Tried Modernist Cuisine at Home?

Indeed, I'm working my way through MC as well, and am greatly inspired by it. It adds so much context and reliable info to what has been somewhat of a confusing set of resources in the past. Here's my take on the famous MC caramelized carrot soup: http://bit.ly/pFzFsi.

From Recipes

Yaki Onigiri

Not so sure about the advice to leave rice out at room temperature for several hours. The general safety rule is no more than 2 hours in the danger zone from 40-140 degrees F.

From Recipes

Sunday Brunch: St. Louis Gooey Butter Cake

Interesting... I'd never heard of GBC before, and then I happened to see a prepackaged snack of them at Walgreens the other day. I'm not normally tempted by plastic wrapped drug store snacks, but this one was odd enough ("St Louis style Gooey Butter Cake" ?!?) that I was tempted, though I fought it off. Odd to see it here just a couple days later, now I know what it really is. Thank you!

From Recipes

Quesadilla Fritas (Fried Quesadillas) with Pickled Jalapeños, Cilantro, and Chipotle Crema

This same method works awesome with corn tortillas. Frying with enough oil makes all the difference. I've written about it here: http://www.herbivoracious.com/2008/07/quesadilla.html

From Drinks

How to Make Your Own Cocktail Bitters: Krangostura

Good lord. Don't let the idiotic comments get you down, Zach. I was just thinking about learning how to make bitters and was planning to do some research, and you just handed me the keys to the car in one neat, easy to follow post. Thank you!

From Recipes

Maple Syrup Caramels

What is the purpose of step 2? Why wouldn't it work to just stir the cream, butter and salt into the sugar caramel at step 4?

From Drinks

Serious Beer: The Best Pumpkin Ales

I'm a big fan of Lakefront Brewery's pumpkin, from Milwaukee.

From Serious Eats

No Oven Required: My Peanut Butter Cup Runneth Over

I personally love that slight amount of grit in the Reese's filling. My thought, not yet tried, is to use tapioca maltodextrin to dry up the oiliness of the peanut butter and create a sandy texture. I'd add some finely ground sea salt to it as well.

From Recipes

Seriously Meatless: Polenta with a Leek and Mushroom Ragu

A young, semi-soft pecorino would be superb. The truffle-flecked kind if you are feeling indulgent.

From Serious Eats

Serious Heat: Obsessed with Gochujang, the Korean Chile Sauce

Love the stuff. It just has so much more flavor than typical hot-sauce bases. I've noticed that affinity for soft-boiled eggs. Here's another dish, with a crispy pancake made from soba noodles.

From Serious Eats

What Can a Vegetarian Eat at The Bazaar, Jose Andres' Temple of Molecular Gastronomy?

@erOck - yes, they leave the anchovies out when they do a vegetarian version of it.

From Recipes

Keftes De Prasa, the Sephardic-Style Leek Fritters

I don't think they would ever be as crispy in the oven, but they might be ok. Far and away the best way to eat them is out of the frying pan, onto the plate, salt, fork.

From Recipes

Seriously Meatless: Polenta with a Leek and Mushroom Ragu

@akatzman - I've heard good things about the oven technique but never tried it. I see no reason it shouldn't work well, though for me the stovetop technique doesn't seem to be any big deal either. I've never been sure why folks act like it is such a trial.

From Serious Eats

Mobile Chowdown 3: Seattle vs. Portland Street Food

Great job, Jay! As it happens I'm down in PDX right now and had *two* whiffies pies for dinner last night (a vegetarian empanada with pumpkin and soyrizo) and a raspberry. It was too bad they couldn't make it up for the Chowdown, no doubt they would have been a big contender.

From Serious Eats

Taste Test: Store-Bought Tofu

@Kenji and the rest of the silken gang -

Ok, I just went and bought three firm silken tofus - Island Springs (Organic), Azumaya (Organic, not labeled firm, just silken, but quite firm), and Mori-Nu Organic Firm (unlike the Mori-Nu non-organic extra firm I used before).

I've got several thoughts.

(1) There is a lot more silken tofu out there then I realized. I've been tofu blind. Probably because I tend to use tofu a lot more in fried applications, and I've always associated silken with soft. But that isn't correct.

(2) The Azumaya was good; I could eat it up plain, no problem - which confirms my thought that I'm not anti-silken :). The Island Spring was slightly sour, but it also expires just a few days from now, which goes back to my point above - you really want tofu that was made as recently as possible.

(3) The Mori-Nu Organic Firm was *much* better than the Mori-Nu Non-Organic Extra Firm. (I wish I could change just one variable, but that is what was available). Downright edible. It definitely has more of a dead, long stored taste than the bright flavor of the Azumaya. But not disgusting. Now I'll have to try and get the other two Mori-Nu's (organic, extra firm and non-organic firm) to see which was the original problem.

From Serious Eats

Taste Test: Store-Bought Tofu

@dwebs - the only other place I've seen it is Uwajimaya, and that is pretty close to the factory. Uwajimaya also carries Chuminh, another locally produced brand.

From Serious Eats

Taste Test: Store-Bought Tofu

@Kenji - fair enough. Time permitting, I'll go by Uwajimaya and see what other silken tofus I can scare up and add a note.

From Serious Eats

Taste Test: Store-Bought Tofu

@steamsoldier - thanks for pointing that out. You are quite right, the Nasoya is organic. I think I actually transposed that detail with the Sun Luck, which appears not to be organic. I will double check tonight and get the article corrected.

@everyone - I've got no problem with soft silken tofu. I like it quite a lot. I've seen no evidence that firm silken tofu is a traditional product, and the Wikipedia page on the topic (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tofu#Fresh_tofu) seems to concur. And it hardly seems surprising that a shelf-stable product like Mori Nu is not going to be as good as fresh.

From Serious Eats

Taste Test: Store-Bought Tofu

@all - no slight intended against all of the other Asian cultures in which tofu is made and appreciated! I should have said "In Japan, for example, ...", as indeed there is a deep tradition of wonderful tofu in many other countries.

With regard to the need for a blind taste test, that is a valid point - though honestly it wouldn't have made a difference. I can tell the same-day local product from the grocery brands blindfolded, and that Mori Nu extra firm I would have spit out no matter what. Someone else who genuinely likes tofu, go buy the Mori Bu *extra firm* and tell us what you think. Maybe I'm alone on this one, but I don't think so.

Overall, my biggest two takeaways:

(1) Freshly made local tofu is generally going to stomp any other choice. Freshness counts.

(2) I was surprised there wasn't more difference among the grocery store brands. If you had told me they were all made in the same factory I wouldn't have been surprised at all. All that really made a difference was expiration date / freshness.

From Serious Eats

Taste Test: Store-Bought Tofu

@franko - I understand silken when it comes to the soft varieties, but the combination of silken + extra firm I found revolting - I wouldn't want it in a soup or anywhere else.

From Serious Eats

Try Making Refried Beans in a Pressure Cooker

I'm going to stop arguing with you, because you clearly aren't listening. The Bayless and Kennedy fundamental frijoles refritos recipes both start with frijoles de olla, and both proceed to fry the beans. One with onion, one with onion and garlic. Nothing Tex-Mex about it.

From Serious Eats

Try Making Refried Beans in a Pressure Cooker

You are quite right that there are large regional variations throughout Mexico, which is why I find your original assertion that Mexicans don't use onions or garlic kind of silly. It is going to vary from cook to cook. The recipes I cited from Bayless and Kennedy are not some obscure variation; in both cases I cited their *most fundamental* recipe for refried beans.

(And yes, you are quite correct that refried means well fried, not fried twice. The recipe I've given here doesn't really involve any frying at all, so is quite inauthentic in that way, though plenty tasty.)

From Serious Eats

Try Making Refried Beans in a Pressure Cooker

@resolutejc - I'm not sure there is a need to be so rude in your comments. I just doubled checked Diana Kennedy (The Cuisines of Mexico), and her basic refried beans recipe calls for onion, and epazote only when using black beans. Then I checked Rick Bayless (Authentic Mexican), and he calls for both onions and garlic, and he also has you soak them overnight.

From Serious Eats

Try Making Refried Beans in a Pressure Cooker

I'm glad my article has sparked such a discussion! I'm not going to weigh in on the nutrition issue, since it is sure to spark more heat than light.

But with respect to the lard flavor: even though I'm a vegetarian, I actually do know what it tastes like because I've accidentally tasted refried beans with lard in them a few times over the past 25 years, in situations where I was told they were lard free but one bite made obvious that they weren't.

I can understand why people like the flavor, it is certainly very savory. On the other hand, beans without them can be equally, if differently delicious. You can taste the sweet, natural flavor of the beans more clearly. It is good to have a decent quantity of onions and garlic to add complexity though. So I don't think there is only one right way.

To the commenter that suggested epazote, it is fine with me - I love that flavor. AFAIK, it is more typically associated with black beans, but would be delicious with pintos as well. And by the way, this whole same recipe works just fine with black beans.

From Recipes

Fresh Ricotta in Five Minutes or Less

Just tried it; it came out well. Possibly a little more sour than I might like. Did you experiment with the quantity of vinegar to see if you really need the whole 2 tablespoons? In any case, a very efficient method. Good tip about doing the initial separation with a slotted spoon.

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Recent Posts

From Photograzing

Saag with Kale and Collard Greens

From Photograzing

Kala Chana (Black Chickpea Curry)

From Photograzing

Quick Marinated Feta with Orange, Mint and Aleppo Pepper

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Pan Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Shiitakes and Smoked Paprika

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Pan-seared Tofu with Apples and Champagne Vinaigrette

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Crispy Yuba (Tofu Skin) Rolls

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Fuyu persimmon carpaccio

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Cheddar and apple panini with rosemary candied pecans

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Chocolate-chunk bread pudding

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Farro and chickpea soup

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Savory Bread Pudding with Morel Mushrooms

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Spicy vegetarian spaghetti alla carbonara

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Beet curry

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Jackfruit upside-down cake

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Crostini with Young Pecorino, Grilled Figs, and Arugula Pesto

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Polenta with pan-seared porcini

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Strata with caramelized onions, mushrooms and smoked mozzarella

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Thick and cakey chocolate chip cookies

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Scallion curd (yogurt) rice

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Larb jackfruit (Lao-Thai salad made vegan with jackfruit)

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How to make an umami-packed vegetarian broth

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Have you ever heard of winged beans?

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Lightly cooked cherry tomato bruschetta with fresh ricotta

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Peach-Sour Cream Buckle

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Watermelon and sweet onion gazpacho

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Seriously Meatless: Fresh Tagliatelle with Green Beans, Rainbow Chard, and Aged Goat Cheese

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MichaelNatkin got 33% correct on How Much Do You Know About Condiments?

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About MichaelNatkin

Website: http://herbivoracious.com

Location: Seattle

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