Hi Stella! Thats a great piece :D
I'd just like to add that lactose is NOT a monossacharide, but a dissacharide made up of galactose and glucose joined by a glycosidic bound. Lactose is a reducing sugar - i.e. it can take part in the maillard reaction - just like all monossacharides, because of it's capability of converting to an open-chain form with a free aldehyde group that reacts with aminoacids. Sucrose is nonreducing because it's glycosidic bound happens between two anomeric carbons, and thus cannot convert to a structure with a free aldehyde.
Also, pH affects the maillard reaction and not caramelization because it's effect is on the aminoacids: higher pH exposes the reacting amino groups. Because caramelization doesn't envolve aminoacids at all, there was no need for testing.
It also works as slice and bake!!
Stella, I'm from Brazil where tapioca starch (polvilho doce) is a staple in traditional cooking and baking. I make a buttery cookie (or maybe wafer? It's throughly baked and melts in your mounth, we don't do many "half-baked" soft cookies around here, they are mostly crunchy... Anyways) with a 3-2-1 formula that's amazing. I melt 200g butter and mix with 100g organic sugar that's been milled to a fine powder in a coffee grinder and whatever flavoring I'm interested in (maybe 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract, or te zest of 1 lime and/or orange). Mix just untill incorporated and smooth and add 300g tapioca starch to form a pliable dough. Then shape the dough (you can make little 5g balls and flatten them with a fork, which is traditional, or roll the dough and cut out the cookies) and bake at 180 °C for 17min. They puff a little. Wait untill cool to remove from the baking sheet. You should really really try this formula and see what you can do with it. It's AMAZING. And it holds together super well even though it's glutenfree.
Your hibrid idea is basically what Stella Parks does in her berry ice cream recipes! I don't know what ratio of sugar you used to macerate your berries or how much you reduced the resulting syrup when you were testing this idea, but with Stella's recipe I get a thick purree full of fresh strawberry flavour, on its own it doesn't even completely freezes ever! She then instructs us to mix the purre with the same weight in half-and-half, full-fat coconut milk or a vanilla custard base, depending on the results you want. They're all amazing!!!
Max, sorry about the confusion, imperial mesures always get the best of me. A quart is like two pints, I see... Stella's recipes are the best I've found for custard-based ice creams, but I love your philly-style recipes and overall dig all your icecream related articles.
A favourite ice cream of mine involves cooking a can of condensed milk with two table spoons of nescau (a brazilian chocolate-drink powder) or one tablespoon of good quality cocoa untill the mixture doesn't stick to the botton of the pot (the "brigadeiro" moment, about ten minutes), then adding 400ml of cream and a pinch of salt to it. I take this base out of the machine before it fluffs up completely for a really dense truffle-like texture, like you have us do in this recipe. Super easy and delicious, worth a try for those who like the taste of condensed milk and brigadeiro. It also keeps scoopable for quite a while, tough it usually doesn't last
I love stella parks' ice cream recipes because they are super dense and chewy. At her blog, bravetart, there até several recipes, the biggest diffrence to regular ice cream recipes being the cream to milk ratio (1:1) and an obsene amount of yolks. Really obscene. I make a custard with 280g each milk and cream and 170g each yolks and sugar, add salt and freeze. Best ice cream EVER. I believe it's worth it to investigate yolk-heavy icecream bases here at serious eats (come on, on you taste tests about yolks you only went as far as five per quart! Stella's recipe has me using twelve!!!)
Also: to ensure perfect grit-free meringue why not heat whites and sugar together over a double bath, henas making a swiss meringue? Or even make an italian meringue if you think adding sugar to unwhipped whites will make danser meringues? I mean, what if the sugar that started to melt in the oven where to solidify before you add it to your whites and form hard clumps? Just a thought
Also: to ensure a perfect grit-free meringue wouldn't ir be easier to heat sugar and whites together on a double bath - aka making a swiss meringue?
Hi Nila! First of all: I love your posts and your aproach to desert!! One curiosity: are you Dutch/do you live in the Netherlands? I see some reference to dutch stuff on your posts but didn't find anything about it in your biography.
Now about the recipe: when you say molasses do you mean stroop? Is 1/4 teaspoon enough to flavour the meringue?
In my not so humble "I grew up on beans" opinion black beans cooked without bay leaf is heretic.
But the orange trick is really great. In Brasil se usually add a whole orange (not juiced) with some cloves stuck in to the feijoada. It's subtle but game-changing.
And if you suffer from abdominal disconfort after eating beans do throw away the soaking water, as it's full of fructoligosacharides... They will be paler but a lot easier to digest!
I meant *perfect* not "perecer". Stupid portuguese auto-correct.
I'd appreciate to see some more written about the taste and texture of the componets of the cake, speacially the mousse, which seems to be the most unusual one. I mean, I never heard of blender-mousse, is it airy and bubbly or is it dense and silken? It seems to me more like a ganache... How does dulce de leche contribues to the flavour? Doesn't it turn out too sweet??? While I enjoy the column, I think it's not perecer yet. It feels somewhat as if the authors were holding back a little, worried about writting too much. Don't worry guys, go for it. We are used to Kenji's feet-long pieces and we love them. The more (useful) information, the better!
I was wandering what makes italian meringue more stable than swiss, could you explain it? I've always felt they were sort of interchangable given the whites/sugar ratio were the same. Is it not true?
@candide while I surely understand your intentions (we should always try to convince everybody to go the home-made route) I have to say it seems like you're just angry because the food lab doesn't go into the subjects you'd like it to.
This site has an amazing "sweets" page, and there are tons of information there. It's not food-lab-style, but it's there and it's great.
Now, you can't blabe a guy who writes an autoral column for not talking about what you find interesting. It would be like being angry because @Max Falkowitz never gave a recipe for your favourite icecream flavor or because @Joshua Bousel never wrote about that sauce you like so much. @Kenji will only write about stuff he finds interesting and noteworthy, and that might not be the same stuff you or I find.
Stop bitching and go write a blog about how easy it is to make puff-patry.
PS. I make my own puff-patry and don't dry-age beef at home, nor do I intend to, but I still think you're silly, stop overreacting.
Why didn't you taste heinz brand? Isn't it avaliable in the US?
It's such a pitty there will only be one article a week! I'm eager to read it all :)
Daniel, thank you so much for this article! I've been longing for this information. Being from Brazil I've never considered buying canned or jarred beans, because cooking them from dried has always been a normal, almost daily acativity. Canned beans always grosed me out, big time. I often cook from american sites, and you just made my life a lot easier.
Cajuzinhos have always been my favourites! Not too sweet and even easier to make
I haven't spoken dutch in a long time. The correct names are "muntdrop mild zoet" "honingdrop" and "dubbelzoutdrop".
Do make an effort to find some ducth licorice - Drop - it is as good as it gets. I would suggest the classic "middle zoet munt" (coin-shaped, just sligthly salty) someting more exciting like "honing drop" or mint-scented drop, and of course, the adventurous DZ "doubel zout" (duble salt, extremely salty and icky, yet delicious)
Thanks for the comments and ideas!
I'll definitely try it when it gets colder (it's summer right now). I fell in love with the idea of raw wilted hearty greens.
Is it possible to use the same strategy of wilting leaves with collard greens? I fell in love with this salad (love onions, love sumac, love chickpeas) but I have never seen kale here in Brazil. Collard greens, on the other hand, are quite abundant.
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