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Cochon, New Orleans

Okay, I am a huge fan of Donald Link, but the delectable food at Cochon is predominantly the work of co-owner and chef, Steven Stryjewski. They whole crew is fantastic, from the bar staff to the pastry and all points in between.

In the event you care to eat vegetables only, the kitchen at Cochon shops for produce at the Crescent City Farmers' Market and otherwise as locally as possible; there is always a slew of fresh vegetable sides dishes. Beets are in season and have been offered in a variety of ways. Also, one of my favorites is a slivered raw mushroom salad tossed with fresh parsley and tender shards of fried beef jerky, dressed simply with lemon juice.

If I may be so bold, I think what Gurgling Cod is trying to say is that locals (that'd be me for one) have a wee bit of a hard time paying big bucks for items at Cochon that are normally had for much, much less, at much, much less fine places. Think boudin or head cheese for instance.

From Serious Eats

Serious Sandwiches: The Chip Butty

The trick to a good potato po-boy is mayo and good beef gravy. The sandwich from Rocky and Carlo's is heavenly.

From Serious Eats

Jazz Fest Food

Lia - Thanks for your thoughts, they are much appreciated. I live here and I don't entirely agree. We are back at our pre-K restaurant numbers (over 800 restaurants open) and the waiters here are making a killing. In fact, Tommy Cvitanovich, owner of Drago's (he gave away 77, 000 meals immediately after the storm) says his problem is finding managers. Everyone wants to wait tables because that's where the money is right now. Many of those "culinary and otherwise" experiences can and are being had here; that they're not is a fallacy perpetuated by I don't know who, but it's a fallacy. It IS a strange time in New Orleans - a little bit of this and a little bit of that (I'm rather tired of the "tale of two cities" metaphor) - but we are coming together, in unfortunately our typically slow-paced fashion. The truth is that making New Orleans (and environs) whole (in my opinion) means starting with the epi-center and then generating a ripple effect outward. That seems to be what is happening here, sort of, but with so many cooks in the kitchen (pardon the cliche), it's not always working nor functional. it's also not always popular. I wish there was a perfect answer, but simply put, there's not. All we can do is take action, help each other as best as possible and get ourselves back on the proverbial horse (vile, another cliche, sorry). I honestly believe most of us here are trying and even amid some racial tensions (that's sadly always been here too), there is a lot of harmony.

As for what you've read: That's not entirely true either. It was certainly the case at first, but there is some movement, albeit way slow. The answer is so complicated - insurance issues, re-building issues, government (state and federal) pokey-ness/ineptitude, money, losses...and it's SO personal as well as individual. It's not race or class distinctive as is often reported - a lot of people from all walks and all colors are/have gotten screwed.

I still want to know from whom Ed thinks New Orleans culture is under siege? That statement from Ed concerns me.

From Serious Eats

Jazz Fest Food

Please explain this: "Especially now, with New Orleans's cultural heritage under siege post-Katrina..." What does that mean? Under siege by whom?

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From Serious Eats

Cochon, New Orleans

Okay, I am a huge fan of Donald Link, but the delectable food at Cochon is predominantly the work of co-owner and chef, Steven Stryjewski. They whole crew is fantastic, from the bar staff to the pastry and all points in between.

In the event you care to eat vegetables only, the kitchen at Cochon shops for produce at the Crescent City Farmers' Market and otherwise as locally as possible; there is always a slew of fresh vegetable sides dishes. Beets are in season and have been offered in a variety of ways. Also, one of my favorites is a slivered raw mushroom salad tossed with fresh parsley and tender shards of fried beef jerky, dressed simply with lemon juice.

If I may be so bold, I think what Gurgling Cod is trying to say is that locals (that'd be me for one) have a wee bit of a hard time paying big bucks for items at Cochon that are normally had for much, much less, at much, much less fine places. Think boudin or head cheese for instance.

From Serious Eats

Serious Sandwiches: The Chip Butty

The trick to a good potato po-boy is mayo and good beef gravy. The sandwich from Rocky and Carlo's is heavenly.

From Serious Eats

Jazz Fest Food

Lia - Thanks for your thoughts, they are much appreciated. I live here and I don't entirely agree. We are back at our pre-K restaurant numbers (over 800 restaurants open) and the waiters here are making a killing. In fact, Tommy Cvitanovich, owner of Drago's (he gave away 77, 000 meals immediately after the storm) says his problem is finding managers. Everyone wants to wait tables because that's where the money is right now. Many of those "culinary and otherwise" experiences can and are being had here; that they're not is a fallacy perpetuated by I don't know who, but it's a fallacy. It IS a strange time in New Orleans - a little bit of this and a little bit of that (I'm rather tired of the "tale of two cities" metaphor) - but we are coming together, in unfortunately our typically slow-paced fashion. The truth is that making New Orleans (and environs) whole (in my opinion) means starting with the epi-center and then generating a ripple effect outward. That seems to be what is happening here, sort of, but with so many cooks in the kitchen (pardon the cliche), it's not always working nor functional. it's also not always popular. I wish there was a perfect answer, but simply put, there's not. All we can do is take action, help each other as best as possible and get ourselves back on the proverbial horse (vile, another cliche, sorry). I honestly believe most of us here are trying and even amid some racial tensions (that's sadly always been here too), there is a lot of harmony.

As for what you've read: That's not entirely true either. It was certainly the case at first, but there is some movement, albeit way slow. The answer is so complicated - insurance issues, re-building issues, government (state and federal) pokey-ness/ineptitude, money, losses...and it's SO personal as well as individual. It's not race or class distinctive as is often reported - a lot of people from all walks and all colors are/have gotten screwed.

I still want to know from whom Ed thinks New Orleans culture is under siege? That statement from Ed concerns me.

From Serious Eats

Jazz Fest Food

Please explain this: "Especially now, with New Orleans's cultural heritage under siege post-Katrina..." What does that mean? Under siege by whom?

From Serious Eats

Meet & Eat: Anthony Bourdain

Funny, the reason I read Bourdain or anything on Bourdain is the same reason he reads Regina. I read Regina too. She's brilliant, funny and yes, the tiniest bit bitter...somewhat like Bourdain, if you ask me.

From Serious Eats

Serious Sandwiches: The Chip Butty

and by the way, I'm Welsh, and "butty" is a term of endearment as in "shw mai butty" - "hello my old friend".

From Serious Eats

Serious Sandwiches: The Chip Butty

About 20 years ago I was working in Washington, D.C. I always have my supper at the bar in the hotel, and one evening, I was just finishing off my meal by opening my dinner roll and loading it with fries. a guy down the bar said "Excuse me, you're British, aren't you?"

From Serious Eats

Cochon, New Orleans

WHY would anyone be HAPPY to see that A_ _ hole "FRANK BRUNI"
Ever the New york Times made Bruni their Food Critic I have had to "Question" this publications "Judgement" and "Integrity" Frank Bruni is "Totally Unqualified" to critque Restaurants for a newspaper such as the Times. Maybe in Bumf_ _ k Idaho, but New York, New York. Just becuse this MORON lived in Rome for a couple years, "does not qualify" him to be the Food Critic of the New York Times. "What were these pople thinking. The guy rants and raves about all sorts of thing, except the Meat & Bones of what a Food Reveiw should be; 1!) the FOOD, 2) Service, and
3) Ambiance, with the FOOD being of the most Importance.
I've seen the "IDiot" in Action. He goes to a restaurant with 1 or more of his "QUEENY FRIENDS" and keeps asking them what they think of "This and That."
"HIS REVEIWS are AWFUL." !! THANK GOD he's leaving the TIMES soon. With any LUCK, he'll End Up in Bumf _ _ k IDAHO.

Daniel, NEW YORK, NY

From Serious Eats

Serious Sandwiches: The Chip Butty

correction,
- i just did a little lookup on the old interwebs - it seems the word butty in welsh is more for "mate" or "friend" and the use of butty for "sandwich" seems to be a northern england slang, so - hey, there we go!

best wishes

From Serious Eats

Serious Sandwiches: The Chip Butty

Here's some other details:

- the word butty is a welsh word for a sandwich.

- butty is pronounced with the first syllable like "book", not like "putty", and not like "booty". The double "tt" is soft, not pronounced like a "d"

- one of my favourite variations is to make these using triangular ciabatta buns - mmmmmmmm - i gotta go now and make one

ta ra for now then love

From Serious Eats

Serious Sandwiches: The Chip Butty

When you're hungry and need to be fed,
Get some frites (still hot); butter and bread;
With a sprinkle of salt;
And some vinegar (malt).
Haute cuisine — this chip butty will spread!

From Serious Eats

Jazz Fest Food

I'm sorry, I didn't mean to offend you or anyone and I certainly didn't intend for this to be contentious . I really just wanted to know more from Ed about his "...New Orleans cultural heritage under siege" comment. We are all passionate about our city and so in my passion-filled moment several days ago, I suppose I got a bit carried away. Mea Culpa. I certainly did not intend to engage in a one-upmanship of who knows more or who's got it worse; I think we've all had enough of that for one lifetime. I'm sorry for my role inciting that behavior too.

From Serious Eats

Jazz Fest Food

Well, Lorin, I live in New Orleans, as well. I'm interested to know if you ever look into the kitchens of the many places that you apparently regularly dine in. Was Spanish the language of the kitchen in New Orleans before the storm? I'm pretty sure that it wasn't. I'm not saying that this is a bad change (we are, after all, a port city and a city made up largely, historically, of immigrants, at that), but I am asking you why do you think that situation is occurring? Could it be because the people who have performed these jobs for many years, completely underpaid in most cases, can't afford to live here? Perhaps it's because the places and neighborhoods where they used to live pretty much don't exist anymore? You should probably get out of The Isle of Denial more often than you apparently do. It's not pretty. We have no meaningful public transportation, expensive housing and utility costs that are outrageous by anyone's standards. Our hospital system is shot to hell, the cops are undermanned and untrusted, localized crime is out of hand, and the criminal justice system is a national disgrace.

Then again, the "waiters are making a killing." Every night? Most nights? A few nights? What waiters? Waiters at Drago's? Where might all of these rich waiters be? If Tommy is turning them away, perhaps he could direct them to just about anywhere else, as most people in all levels of service seem to be hurting badly for front of house staff and could use the help-especially if there is a killing to be made.

And as for a comparison between the Sonnier's and the Scotch House? Are you really making a comparison or just another of your overstated generalities designed to make some kind of point? The Sonnier's had, among other things, good health and the advantage of being relatively young, insurance, a nice place worth selling over by the Track (though flooded it was still useful real estate in what had been a great location before the levees broke), some money in the bank, and the ability buy a place (in what has become the most desirable and bizarrely insulated section of Uptown) to get things up and running by themselves. Sadly, in what is surely one of the most complicated situations that I have ever witnessed (and pretty much a by the book "Just what's wrong with this place" situation) they have not been able to do that and have probably lost their asses in the bargain. It's a shame because they ran a great place and they are supremely nice people, but it's what it is. Willie Mae had none of those things. None. Those people that helped her did so because they had good hearts-nothing more- as surely 90% of the people who worked there had never been to the place before and many, many of them had never even been to New Orleans-they just wanted to help out in a bad situation. And they did. They didn't expect anything and, in the end, they got alot more than they bargained for on those long weekends in that junky ass place in Treme. Why don't you get a list of them and see if they wouldn't do it again, there or somewhere else, in a heartbeat? Volunteerism is about doing work for others and feeling good about it. Not much more, I don't think.

How can you possibly say that "traditions aren't at risk?" Perhaps not the stuff in the unflooded and previous to the storm fairly affluent (though, clearly, this being New Orleans, mixed shoulder to shoulder with the not so affluent-the huddled wodies, if you will) areas along the River, but as for the REST OF THE CITY? Treme, Gentilly, Broadmoor, the Lower 9, the East, etc would seem to be pretty much in danger of being marginalized or drastically changed. And you know what? I'm one of those who is honest enough to say that some of it is probably for the better, but not all of it and I'm certainly not blind enough to say that there is no threat to these traditions. I can't believe any thinking person would believe otherwise.

New Orleans is, without a doubt, a culture that is all of it's own and completely unique-this is, at the same time, our greatest weakness and by far our greatest strength. We're who we are and we don't apologize to anyone for it. This fixing things will take awhile and it's not going to be fast. We'll be doing it, largely on our own without the help of, or inspite of, the government on every level and every step of the way. But we will do it. There's too much to lose here and many of us can't seem to fathom living anywhere else.

Thankfully there are many people around the country who kind of don't get us, and don't even pretend to, but in many ways they want part of what we have. They see something, though often they're not even sure what, that they don't have in Des Moines, or Chattanooga, or even New York-and it's not just "go cups (though this IS one of our most civilized features)." This is a place where people "work to live" not "live to work" and while most of us are doing alot more work than living right now, at least we (or at least most of us) know what we are missing.

From Serious Eats

Jazz Fest Food

Thanks for your response Ed. I understand your position, but I too am a food writer in New Orleans and I disagree that our traditional foods/restaurants are at risk. The "Mom and Pop" places that many of your journalist friends thought would not return, have, and there are also new joints that have arisen to be our "new guard." Everyone is vitally aware of the importance of our food heritage and traditions, even big wheels like Besh, Adolfo Garcia, Frank Brigtsen, et al., are heping keep traditions alive and present. This isn't New Orleans without grit and soul - everyone here knows that - and I don't see that being lost, it's too much of who we are - Nonetheless, I hear you.

All of us here are painfully aware of government ineptitude - it stinks, but we must keep going, 'cause we can't wait for the yahoos to get straight.

I know you're fond of Willie Mae's, me too; I was there on her re-opening day and it was exeptional. Sadly the restaurant has remained closed since then owing to some staffing issues and as I've been told, "it's now in Willie Mae's hands." Such good work has been done, but there are others who need your (our) attention. Greg and Mary Sonnier who own Gabrielle restaurant (they were/are ardent supporters of Willie Mae throught her turmoil) need us now. It's their turn. Talk about being under siege. You can get details on their debacle from your New Orleans pals; they'll know what I'm talking about.

Again, thanks for your love and passion for New Orleans and a special thank you for responding to my question.

From Serious Eats

Jazz Fest Food

Lorin, Ed Levine here. First of all, let me say right off I love New Orleans with all my heart and soul. I love its food, its music (I co-produced two Dr. John solo piano albums in a former life), and its very soul. Post-Katrina, I have observed a colossal failure by every level of government, starting with Bush, "Brownie," Governor Blanco, and Ray Nagin. I have been down there twice, and to see entire neighborhoods still lying in ruins is heartbreaking. Some of these are neighborhoods that can and should be rebuilt, others will never be safe from another Katrina-like hurricane and unfortunately should not be rebuilt, and yet no one seems to have the courage to say that. The resulting paralysis is both heartbreaking and debilitating.

Although restaurants are bustling, what I fear (and many of my journalist friends in New Orleans do as well) is that New Orleans will end up being a theme park of a city, and that much of the cultural soul and grit of the city will be lost as a result. God knows I don't want this to happen. I want every po' boy joint and every red beans and rice establishment in every neighborhood of New Orleans to come back better than ever. I have given money to Willie Mae Saeton's restaurant building fund,, and publicized it every chance I get. In fact, I am going to post about it again next week.
But I don't think there's any question that some important stuff has been washed away by Katrina, and at least some of that important stuff isn't coming back. So who is New Orleans under seige from? From every branch of government you or I could name.

From Serious Eats

Jazz Fest Food

Lorin, I can't speak for Ed, but from what I've read many food industry workers were among those evacuated, and many of them made the hard decision to not move back. A lot of restaurants are gone, sure, but structures can be rebuilt; it's the people who ran them, cooked their food, and passed down recipes through generations that can't be replaced. There are pre-Katrina experiences, culinary and otherwise, that no one will ever have again, because the people that made them are just not there.

From Serious Eats

Meet & Eat: Anthony Bourdain

Tony's honesty, true delight in adventure, and self-deprecating humor are so refreshing in today's world of superstar chefs and pompous restaurateurs. He's our modern-day American Bobby Burns, and I for one like the steamin' rustic heap of haggis he's servin'.

From Serious Eats

Meet & Eat: Anthony Bourdain

Regards noodlepie Mike. The funny thing is, five or more people over the years, possibly including yourself, have likened what I write on the blog to Tony Bourdain. Before I started the blog I'd never heard of the guy. A friend of mine gave me his book, Kitchen Confidential, which I'll admit I enjoyed for the first 70 pages or so before I got distracted by something else and meanwhile someone else decided they'd borrow it from my bookshelf in Saigon.... ach... Vietnam...

Also, I'd never seen any of his TV shows until a couple of weeks ago I searched around YouTube and found a couple of clips of his which I added to the Vietnamese food video round up:

http://www.noodlepie.com/2007/02/vietnamese_food.html

I don't think his expereince of Vietnam is anything like ours, although he may have flirted with the edges of daily life there. The freak show end of things in Vietnam is not a freak show when you live it. It's just normal life.

Then, the other day I was culling my podcast subscriptions when I noticed eGullet had a couple of Bourdain interviews I hadn't heard. So, I downloaded them,

http://offthebroiler.wordpress.com/2006/05/28/podcast-16-and-17-tony-bourdain/

The sound quality is total crap, BUT, what Bourdain says especially re: the scarcity of quality food, quality street food in developed societies and what we've lost etc. is something I very much recognise. I live in Toulouse which is filled with quality nosh, but unlike Saigon that quality is not available to all regardless of wealth, on every street corner at all hours of the day. Although foie gras is available in every and any strain 2 minutes from my gaff :)

From Serious Eats

Meet & Eat: Anthony Bourdain

I adore Anthony he is my favorite food snob. I think he should write more books. If I wrote a book it would along the same lines. Food snobs unite.

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