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Serious Heat: What's Your Secret Chili Ingredient?
a pinch each of cinnamon and cocoa powder
Montreal Bagels: St-Viateur vs. Fairmount
A generation ago, New York bagels were more like these, although never quite as sweet.
My favorite part of the Thanksgiving meal...
Cranberry sauce:
Blanch three 3-inch strips of zest from two large navel oranges for one minute and mince. Peel the oranges, cut them into quarters and add to a bag of cranberries along with the zest and whirl in the food processor until very finely chopped. Remove from processor and add 3/4 cup honey and 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger. Allow to macerate for at least one day.
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Recent Comments | Response to Comments
Taste Test: Finding the Best Apples for Baking
I always use a combination of apples for pie, usually including Macoun and Cortland, Empire and others, depending on what is available. I slice the harder apples thinner than the others, for even baking. I love Honeycrisp apples for eating out of hand, but they are among the worst apples for pie.
Serious Heat: What's Your Secret Chili Ingredient?
a pinch each of cinnamon and cocoa powder
Montreal Bagels: St-Viateur vs. Fairmount
A generation ago, New York bagels were more like these, although never quite as sweet.
My favorite part of the Thanksgiving meal...
Cranberry sauce:
Blanch three 3-inch strips of zest from two large navel oranges for one minute and mince. Peel the oranges, cut them into quarters and add to a bag of cranberries along with the zest and whirl in the food processor until very finely chopped. Remove from processor and add 3/4 cup honey and 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger. Allow to macerate for at least one day.
Come on in 'The Kitchn'
I've never succeeded in getting lump-free polenta until I started it by putting the polenta in the post, then adding cold water and bringing it all to the boil after it was smoothly combined.
What's your favorite cake?
The cake I find myself making most often is a Marcella Hazan almond cake.
Then there's the tres leches cake at Red Cat. When I told the server that I had to really make an effort not to pick the plate up and lick it, she told me that if I had, I wouldn't have been the first one to do so.
But the one that stirs my memories is my mother's banana cake from an old Settlement cookbook, not that she made it very well. It was always gummy on the bottom, but that was my favorite part, even more than the cream cheese frosting. It was the only thing she could make other than Rice Krispies treats. Fortunately, my grandmother lived with us and did all the cooking.
Will you miss Gourmet magazine?
Oops, typo. My comment should have read: I've missed it ever since Ruth Reichl took over.
Homemade liqueur recipes
Pit 1 pound of peaches. Combine with a 750ml bottle of Alsatian reisling and 1 1/2 cups sugar in a non-reactive pan. Bring to a gentle boil, and stir to dissolve the sugar. Simmer for 5 minutes. Let cool and place in a large jar or crock along with 1/2 cup rum. Let sit in a cool, dark place for 2 days. Strain and transfer to bottles. This will keep in the fridge for up to several months.
What Londoners Think of New York Food: The 'Madison Avenue Bagel'
Reminds me of a menu item I saw in West Virginia, under the rubric "New York Deli" or something similar: Cream cheese, grape jelly and bacon on a "bagel."
Taste Test: Mustard
The TJ Dijon is the one thing in that store that is worth the line.
Will you miss Gourmet magazine?
I've missed it every since Ruth Reichl took over.
Delicious Ways to Break the Fast on Yom Kippur
Here's my late mother-in-law's break the fast kugel, also served only on Yom Kippur, as dessert. Fruit salad is good with this.
Janet Levine’s Break-the-Fast Kugel
1/2 lb. fine noodles, cooked.
Grease pan and line with the noodles.
Beat well:
8 oz. cream cheese, 8 eggs, 1 pt. sour cream, ½ lb. melted butter, 1 cup sugar, 2 tsp vanilla
Pour mixture over noodles.
Bake at 325 for about 1 hour.
too many bananas!
For future reference:
Banana Jam
3 lemons, 8 bananas, 3 cups of sugar, 3 cups water, a chunk of ginger about an inch on each side, cloves
Remove the rind from the lemon in very fine strips. Squeeze them and reserve the juice. Boil the water and sugar together for about 10 minutes. Add the lemon juice, rind, the ginger and a few cloves. Simmer for 1/2 - 3/4 hr., stirring often to avoid scorching. Remove the ginger before transfering to jars. One or two cloves may be added to each jar.
In Memory of The Silver Palate's Sheila Lukins
Chicken Marbella was my standard Seder main course for many years.
Scientists Say Popcorn Is Good For You
Will the polyphenols counteract the effects of sitting in the movie theater, eating the popcorn instead of exercising?
Florida Bagel Maker Using 'Brooklyn-Style' Water
Susan173 is right.
Who Are Your Favorite Farmers at Farmers' Markets?
My favorties at the Union Square Greenmarket are Yuno, for produce, including some things you don't see elsewhere and eggs with true bright orange yolks and a verey rich flavor. Paffenroth for a wider range of produce than Yuno at lower prices. In season they sell purslane, one of my favorite salad greens, for %1 a big bunch. Blue Moon for flapping fresh fish. I also love Cato Corners for cheese.
Do you have a recipe you won't share?
I don't mind sharing, and when I do share I try to be as accurate as possible, but every time I make something it's a bit different, because I'm an improviser. Experience has shown that even those who try to make my specialties are unable to duplicate them exactly.
Cook the Book: '660 Curries' by Raghavan Iyer
Does Anglo-Indian count? My very first experience with Indian flavors, if not Indian food, was at the Newarker restaurant, one of the first Restauarnt Associates fine dining establishments, at Newark Airport! My first taste of real Indian food came later, in New York City, in the mid 60s. I took to the flavors immediately, bought some books and started cooking.
How to Politely Take Food Photos in Restaurants
Before food blogging became so popular, taking a picture in a restaurant was considered comically gauche. With all the self-absorbed semi-professionals who now have a justification for the activity, it has become a rare meal without someone taking pictures, even in the most sophisticated places.
I'm conflicted. I like to look at pictures of dishes that people have taken in restaurants, but I hate to see them taking the pictures in the restaurant. Obviously, taking the pix without flash is preferable, even, maybe especially, if you think your flash doesn't bother others. If I were in the restaurant, for example, it would bother me, even if I didn't turn around and give you a dirty look.
How do YOU make a tomato sandwich?
The important thing for a tomato sandwich is to cut the tomatoes from pole to pole and not across the equator.
Cook the Book: 'Seven Fires'
Steak with chimichurri, dulce de leche
What's Your Favorite Ice Cream Flavor
Dulce de leche and others in the caramel/toffee/butterscotch family..
Some potluck etiquette questions...
The most important thing the host can do is make sure that the guests know in advance that the party is a potluck. Don't invite everyone and after they accept tell them they have to bring the food. Give your prospective guests the opportunity to decline the invitation if they don't want to participate.
Does Anyone Really Love Pumpkin Pie?
Though I do like pumpkin pie, there are many pies that I would prefer any day, such as strawberry rhubarb or lemon meringue. I did find an AWESOME recipe, though, for pumpkin pie, and it was the second pie to disappear at a Thanksgiving dinner for 30 friends this year, out of about 7 other pie chioces. (The first to disappear was also mine- Dorie Greenspan's "Favorite Pecan Pie" with chocolate and espresso.) I'll be making it again for my family...it's Sherry Yard's Triple Silken Pumpkin Pie from "Desserts by the Yard." Baked in a springform pan, the bottom layer is pumpkin custard, then a layer of maple whipped cream, then a layer of caramel pumpkin mousse....truly an awesome pie and worth the work!
Taste Test: Finding the Best Apples for Baking
Sad we cant get bramleys cooking apples here :( oh well. I got mystery apples in my CSA and used those, lets hope they work!
Serious Heat: What's Your Secret Chili Ingredient?
My secret ingredient?
Love...
Taste Test: Finding the Best Apples for Baking
I used to use Golden Delish (with skin on) in my pies. Keeping the skin on, helped maintain the firmness of this otherwise, kind of mushy apple, and their relative sweetness allowed me to cut back on the sugar I would normally add. However, after finding them at the farmer's market in Union Square, I've become a Mutsu/Crispin convert. You only need one (one!) apple to fill an entire, normal depth, pie and these apples compliment traditional pie spices really well. I'm making two for thanksgiving (a regular one and a bacon cheddar one)!
My mom, on the other hand, uses freshly picked Cortland apples and has for years.
Taste Test: Finding the Best Apples for Baking
I like Ida Reds but can't find them anymore. I use a mix of Gala, Granny Smith and Macintosh. Not really much variety here in the stores, lucky to get those. The best way to get great tasting heirloom apple varieties is to plant a tree or two in your yard. If you are lucky enough to have a yard. We have seven acres and went a little crazy. Here are two great nurseries with excellent quality and service :
http://www.vintagevirginiaapples.com/
http://www.raintreenursery.com/
We have planted 30 or so fruit trees and we're waiting....in 3 more years they should start producing. What we're going to do with it all I don't know, but we just couldn't resist all the different varieties!
Taste Test: Finding the Best Apples for Baking
I made my first batch of applesauce 35 years ago at the suggestion of my new MIL with Courtlands and since I bought a couple of bushels I would use them for pies and crisps as well. They don't require added sugar and the sauce is pink and the kids always thought that the color made it special. Each year I find I run out sooner than I should since there are more grandkids:-)
Taste Test: Finding the Best Apples for Baking
Maybe, if possible, the seeds of those far-flung 800 apple varieties should be carefully collected and saved in the deep cold seed bank up in ?Finland?Sweden? Future generations may need them along with all the other vast varieties of foodstuffs our planet used to provide. Sadly, our modern-day food delivery system just can't handle the variety and logistics involved in providing them to us readily. Another reason for "back to the land"! We must seek them out...farmer's markets etc. Just as an aside...anyone remember when the Shriners, dressed as clowns, used to sell big delicious Macs on city street corners as a fundraiser? One of my treasured memories of the 50s!!
Taste Test: Finding the Best Apples for Baking
About 1 1/2 hours outside of LA (off the 10) there is a great apple growing region called Oak Glen, you can get all the heirloom varieties you can dream of. My current little bit of apple heaven... Arkansas Black- little sweet, little tart and super crisp. I don't like my fruit cooked, so I have no idea how they would bake, but if you can get your hands on them... so good!
Taste Test: Finding the Best Apples for Baking
I wonder if the Russet & Orin are regional apples because the Whole Foods in my area (PA) doesnt carry them. I'm going to try a mixture of Gala, Golden Del & Granny Smith w/the vodka pie crust!
Watch out!
Taste Test: Finding the Best Apples for Baking
Haven't seen it mentioned yet, but Ambrosia's seem to bake up really well with a lot of flavor. Haven't tried them in a pie yet, but in muffins & other baked goods the texture holds up really well, and the flavor deepens and becomes more complex.
Taste Test: Finding the Best Apples for Baking
i just made the most unbelievable {if i do say so myself} tarte tatin with mostly pink ladies, with some russets, pippins, and winesaps thrown in. heaven!
Taste Test: Finding the Best Apples for Baking
Emily of Black Rock Orchard swears by Ida Reds.
If I've only got a choice of supermarket fruit, Golden Delicious is my favorite option, but at the farmers' market, I prefer talking to growers, sampling, and then selecting a mixture.
Taste Test: Finding the Best Apples for Baking
My new favorite this fall is jonagold for pies. Made a perfect tarte tatin this year: soft, cooked, and held its shape, though with tarte tatin, the apples are more cooked than they are baked. I have to say that in an informal crisp test I performed (I make dinner at a shelter twice a month) golden delicous outperformed granny smith by a mile. The grannies turned to mush while the goldens were sweet and held their shape. I'd think it would be hard to do an apple pie test without any apple pie seasoning though. Who's to say that plain apples in the presence of cinnamon, nutmeg, etc. would still perform the same?
Taste Test: Finding the Best Apples for Baking
Cortlands should surely be considered, a pamphlet put out by NYS apple growers names them as the best for pie. I am a Macoun fan myself, both for pie and out of hand snacking.
Taste Test: Finding the Best Apples for Baking
Winesaps! I had forgotten about them. Used to love them and think they were the best in pies! Haven't seen one in ages.
Taste Test: Finding the Best Apples for Baking
New England tradition demands baldwin apples.
Baldwin:
Raw: bland and uninteresting
Baked: Full of layered spicy notes
I'm down in VA where Baldwins cannot be found, so I'm experimenting tonight with a heirloom variety called "gold rush" which is an ugly beast, but crunchy, tart, and with a lot of layered flavors when raw. We'll see how it cooks up.
Taste Test: Finding the Best Apples for Baking
My mom always used Granny Smiths because she is not too big on sugary tastes so I used those until I took a baking class in Philadelphia years ago with a pastry chef from a well known restaurant who ONLY used Golden Delicious. I started using them then and have never looked back but I do sometimes use equal Golden Delicious and Granny Smiths to even out the sweetness. Northern Spy is an interesting thought but Macs and Empires I would think would turn to mush!!!
Taste Test: Finding the Best Apples for Baking
Macintosh and Granny smith, heavy on the granny, are my winning combo.
Taste Test: Finding the Best Apples for Baking
Empires----an improved descendant of the Macintosh-------tart and crisp to eat and great flavor in pies, applesauce whatever. (Although Honeycrisp are still my faves for eating out of hand fresh---for people who don't see them as special, consider the source was it a supermarket (yuck) or fresh off the tree or farmers market, they don't do so well at room temp so if they've been off the tree for a couple weeks they become pretty inferior unless kept cool.
Taste Test: Finding the Best Apples for Baking
I'm with you Kerosena! I always feel kinda silly admitting that in the baking world cause they're not supposed to be the best baking apple, but I love them and use them for everything.
Taste Test: Finding the Best Apples for Baking
Add me to the group who give affection to Macs and Cortlands--both are what apples are "supposed" to taste like, to my palate: like a great glass of fresh-milled cider! Both are great bakers, though I prefer Cortlands for pie and sauce and MacIntoshes for crisps or simple baked-apples...Yum.
I made a batch of applesauce this past weekend from Macouns, and was pleased with the results--an interesting fresh-sawed wood back note I've never experienced before. Not my fav, but an interesting twist.
Taste Test: Finding the Best Apples for Baking
Granny Smith and Braeburns are also good.
Taste Test: Finding the Best Apples for Baking
Macs and Courtlands are my favorite baking/cooking apple. they bake down, yet somehow hold part of their shape during cooking. Maybe it's my new england upbringing, but they are the only apple I'll be using next week for my pies.
Taste Test: Finding the Best Apples for Baking
@Bemijohm, I think that since the pies were actually small tarts instead of full sized pies, it's perfectly logical to only cook them for 35 minutes. Otherwise you're going to over cook them.
Taste Test: Finding the Best Apples for Baking
The best part of this article are the comments. It's amazing how different everyone's opinions are about apples, and how strongly they hold onto their apple beliefs!
The interesting thing about apples is that just 100 years ago, you could buy somewhere around 800 types of apples at stores and grocers, whereas today, you really can't find more than 80 types. Most of the heirloom varieties have almost totally disappeared, except for the stray forgotten orchard in someone's back yard. It does make you wonder what kinds of delicious flavors we're missing.
As for what I like, well, I guess it depends on the time of year. Year round, I love nothing more than to eat a lovely Gala. They're usually the cheapest apple in the store, stores easily and is pretty tasty. I love the soft skin. Later in the year, Macs and Cortlands are are top at my list, especially when the local orchard has pick-your-own. Lately I've been eating a lot of Empires, which are really good, sweet and crispy.
I hardly ever make pies, so the only thing I'm looking for in an apple is a pleasant snack.
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I always use a combination of apples for pie, usually including Macoun and Cortland, Empire and others, depending on what is available. I slice the harder apples thinner than the others, for even baking. I love Honeycrisp apples for eating out of hand, but they are among the worst apples for pie.