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Serious Heat: What's Your Secret Chili Ingredient?
a pinch each of cinnamon and cocoa powder
Montreal Bagels: St-Viateur vs. Fairmount
A generation ago, New York bagels were more like these, although never quite as sweet.
My favorite part of the Thanksgiving meal...
Cranberry sauce:
Blanch three 3-inch strips of zest from two large navel oranges for one minute and mince. Peel the oranges, cut them into quarters and add to a bag of cranberries along with the zest and whirl in the food processor until very finely chopped. Remove from processor and add 3/4 cup honey and 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger. Allow to macerate for at least one day.
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Recent Comments | Response to Comments
Taste Test: Finding the Best Apples for Baking
I always use a combination of apples for pie, usually including Macoun and Cortland, Empire and others, depending on what is available. I slice the harder apples thinner than the others, for even baking. I love Honeycrisp apples for eating out of hand, but they are among the worst apples for pie.
Serious Heat: What's Your Secret Chili Ingredient?
a pinch each of cinnamon and cocoa powder
Montreal Bagels: St-Viateur vs. Fairmount
A generation ago, New York bagels were more like these, although never quite as sweet.
My favorite part of the Thanksgiving meal...
Cranberry sauce:
Blanch three 3-inch strips of zest from two large navel oranges for one minute and mince. Peel the oranges, cut them into quarters and add to a bag of cranberries along with the zest and whirl in the food processor until very finely chopped. Remove from processor and add 3/4 cup honey and 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger. Allow to macerate for at least one day.
Come on in 'The Kitchn'
I've never succeeded in getting lump-free polenta until I started it by putting the polenta in the post, then adding cold water and bringing it all to the boil after it was smoothly combined.
What's your favorite cake?
The cake I find myself making most often is a Marcella Hazan almond cake.
Then there's the tres leches cake at Red Cat. When I told the server that I had to really make an effort not to pick the plate up and lick it, she told me that if I had, I wouldn't have been the first one to do so.
But the one that stirs my memories is my mother's banana cake from an old Settlement cookbook, not that she made it very well. It was always gummy on the bottom, but that was my favorite part, even more than the cream cheese frosting. It was the only thing she could make other than Rice Krispies treats. Fortunately, my grandmother lived with us and did all the cooking.
Will you miss Gourmet magazine?
Oops, typo. My comment should have read: I've missed it ever since Ruth Reichl took over.
Homemade liqueur recipes
Pit 1 pound of peaches. Combine with a 750ml bottle of Alsatian reisling and 1 1/2 cups sugar in a non-reactive pan. Bring to a gentle boil, and stir to dissolve the sugar. Simmer for 5 minutes. Let cool and place in a large jar or crock along with 1/2 cup rum. Let sit in a cool, dark place for 2 days. Strain and transfer to bottles. This will keep in the fridge for up to several months.
What Londoners Think of New York Food: The 'Madison Avenue Bagel'
Reminds me of a menu item I saw in West Virginia, under the rubric "New York Deli" or something similar: Cream cheese, grape jelly and bacon on a "bagel."
Taste Test: Mustard
The TJ Dijon is the one thing in that store that is worth the line.
Will you miss Gourmet magazine?
I've missed it every since Ruth Reichl took over.
Delicious Ways to Break the Fast on Yom Kippur
Here's my late mother-in-law's break the fast kugel, also served only on Yom Kippur, as dessert. Fruit salad is good with this.
Janet Levine’s Break-the-Fast Kugel
1/2 lb. fine noodles, cooked.
Grease pan and line with the noodles.
Beat well:
8 oz. cream cheese, 8 eggs, 1 pt. sour cream, ½ lb. melted butter, 1 cup sugar, 2 tsp vanilla
Pour mixture over noodles.
Bake at 325 for about 1 hour.
too many bananas!
For future reference:
Banana Jam
3 lemons, 8 bananas, 3 cups of sugar, 3 cups water, a chunk of ginger about an inch on each side, cloves
Remove the rind from the lemon in very fine strips. Squeeze them and reserve the juice. Boil the water and sugar together for about 10 minutes. Add the lemon juice, rind, the ginger and a few cloves. Simmer for 1/2 - 3/4 hr., stirring often to avoid scorching. Remove the ginger before transfering to jars. One or two cloves may be added to each jar.
In Memory of The Silver Palate's Sheila Lukins
Chicken Marbella was my standard Seder main course for many years.
Scientists Say Popcorn Is Good For You
Will the polyphenols counteract the effects of sitting in the movie theater, eating the popcorn instead of exercising?
Florida Bagel Maker Using 'Brooklyn-Style' Water
Susan173 is right.
Who Are Your Favorite Farmers at Farmers' Markets?
My favorties at the Union Square Greenmarket are Yuno, for produce, including some things you don't see elsewhere and eggs with true bright orange yolks and a verey rich flavor. Paffenroth for a wider range of produce than Yuno at lower prices. In season they sell purslane, one of my favorite salad greens, for %1 a big bunch. Blue Moon for flapping fresh fish. I also love Cato Corners for cheese.
Do you have a recipe you won't share?
I don't mind sharing, and when I do share I try to be as accurate as possible, but every time I make something it's a bit different, because I'm an improviser. Experience has shown that even those who try to make my specialties are unable to duplicate them exactly.
Cook the Book: '660 Curries' by Raghavan Iyer
Does Anglo-Indian count? My very first experience with Indian flavors, if not Indian food, was at the Newarker restaurant, one of the first Restauarnt Associates fine dining establishments, at Newark Airport! My first taste of real Indian food came later, in New York City, in the mid 60s. I took to the flavors immediately, bought some books and started cooking.
How to Politely Take Food Photos in Restaurants
Before food blogging became so popular, taking a picture in a restaurant was considered comically gauche. With all the self-absorbed semi-professionals who now have a justification for the activity, it has become a rare meal without someone taking pictures, even in the most sophisticated places.
I'm conflicted. I like to look at pictures of dishes that people have taken in restaurants, but I hate to see them taking the pictures in the restaurant. Obviously, taking the pix without flash is preferable, even, maybe especially, if you think your flash doesn't bother others. If I were in the restaurant, for example, it would bother me, even if I didn't turn around and give you a dirty look.
How do YOU make a tomato sandwich?
The important thing for a tomato sandwich is to cut the tomatoes from pole to pole and not across the equator.
Cook the Book: 'Seven Fires'
Steak with chimichurri, dulce de leche
What's Your Favorite Ice Cream Flavor
Dulce de leche and others in the caramel/toffee/butterscotch family..
Some potluck etiquette questions...
The most important thing the host can do is make sure that the guests know in advance that the party is a potluck. Don't invite everyone and after they accept tell them they have to bring the food. Give your prospective guests the opportunity to decline the invitation if they don't want to participate.
Taste Test: Finding the Best Apples for Baking
Emily of Black Rock Orchard swears by Ida Reds.
If I've only got a choice of supermarket fruit, Golden Delicious is my favorite option, but at the farmers' market, I prefer talking to growers, sampling, and then selecting a mixture.
Taste Test: Finding the Best Apples for Baking
My new favorite this fall is jonagold for pies. Made a perfect tarte tatin this year: soft, cooked, and held its shape, though with tarte tatin, the apples are more cooked than they are baked. I have to say that in an informal crisp test I performed (I make dinner at a shelter twice a month) golden delicous outperformed granny smith by a mile. The grannies turned to mush while the goldens were sweet and held their shape. I'd think it would be hard to do an apple pie test without any apple pie seasoning though. Who's to say that plain apples in the presence of cinnamon, nutmeg, etc. would still perform the same?
Taste Test: Finding the Best Apples for Baking
Cortlands should surely be considered, a pamphlet put out by NYS apple growers names them as the best for pie. I am a Macoun fan myself, both for pie and out of hand snacking.
Taste Test: Finding the Best Apples for Baking
Winesaps! I had forgotten about them. Used to love them and think they were the best in pies! Haven't seen one in ages.
Taste Test: Finding the Best Apples for Baking
New England tradition demands baldwin apples.
Baldwin:
Raw: bland and uninteresting
Baked: Full of layered spicy notes
I'm down in VA where Baldwins cannot be found, so I'm experimenting tonight with a heirloom variety called "gold rush" which is an ugly beast, but crunchy, tart, and with a lot of layered flavors when raw. We'll see how it cooks up.
Taste Test: Finding the Best Apples for Baking
My mom always used Granny Smiths because she is not too big on sugary tastes so I used those until I took a baking class in Philadelphia years ago with a pastry chef from a well known restaurant who ONLY used Golden Delicious. I started using them then and have never looked back but I do sometimes use equal Golden Delicious and Granny Smiths to even out the sweetness. Northern Spy is an interesting thought but Macs and Empires I would think would turn to mush!!!
Taste Test: Finding the Best Apples for Baking
Macintosh and Granny smith, heavy on the granny, are my winning combo.
Taste Test: Finding the Best Apples for Baking
Empires----an improved descendant of the Macintosh-------tart and crisp to eat and great flavor in pies, applesauce whatever. (Although Honeycrisp are still my faves for eating out of hand fresh---for people who don't see them as special, consider the source was it a supermarket (yuck) or fresh off the tree or farmers market, they don't do so well at room temp so if they've been off the tree for a couple weeks they become pretty inferior unless kept cool.
Taste Test: Finding the Best Apples for Baking
I'm with you Kerosena! I always feel kinda silly admitting that in the baking world cause they're not supposed to be the best baking apple, but I love them and use them for everything.
Taste Test: Finding the Best Apples for Baking
Add me to the group who give affection to Macs and Cortlands--both are what apples are "supposed" to taste like, to my palate: like a great glass of fresh-milled cider! Both are great bakers, though I prefer Cortlands for pie and sauce and MacIntoshes for crisps or simple baked-apples...Yum.
I made a batch of applesauce this past weekend from Macouns, and was pleased with the results--an interesting fresh-sawed wood back note I've never experienced before. Not my fav, but an interesting twist.
Taste Test: Finding the Best Apples for Baking
Granny Smith and Braeburns are also good.
Taste Test: Finding the Best Apples for Baking
Macs and Courtlands are my favorite baking/cooking apple. they bake down, yet somehow hold part of their shape during cooking. Maybe it's my new england upbringing, but they are the only apple I'll be using next week for my pies.
Taste Test: Finding the Best Apples for Baking
@Bemijohm, I think that since the pies were actually small tarts instead of full sized pies, it's perfectly logical to only cook them for 35 minutes. Otherwise you're going to over cook them.
Taste Test: Finding the Best Apples for Baking
The best part of this article are the comments. It's amazing how different everyone's opinions are about apples, and how strongly they hold onto their apple beliefs!
The interesting thing about apples is that just 100 years ago, you could buy somewhere around 800 types of apples at stores and grocers, whereas today, you really can't find more than 80 types. Most of the heirloom varieties have almost totally disappeared, except for the stray forgotten orchard in someone's back yard. It does make you wonder what kinds of delicious flavors we're missing.
As for what I like, well, I guess it depends on the time of year. Year round, I love nothing more than to eat a lovely Gala. They're usually the cheapest apple in the store, stores easily and is pretty tasty. I love the soft skin. Later in the year, Macs and Cortlands are are top at my list, especially when the local orchard has pick-your-own. Lately I've been eating a lot of Empires, which are really good, sweet and crispy.
I hardly ever make pies, so the only thing I'm looking for in an apple is a pleasant snack.
Taste Test: Finding the Best Apples for Baking
It seems to me you missed some of the classic pie apples: Granny Smith, Winesap, Macintosh, and Jonathons. Also in my opinion you cooked the pies for far too short a time. I have won awards with my apple pies baked fro 1.5 hours at 350.
Taste Test: Finding the Best Apples for Baking
This is a fabulous post!
@Kerosena, Macs have been in my apple pies for years! We'd go apple picking in Massachusetts every Fall and fill our bushels with Macs and Cortlands, and we'd mix those for our pies. I think there's nothing that signifies Fall to me quite like a crisp Macintosh pulled off a tree and eaten in the orchard. I get teary just to think of it. It's hard to find really crisp Macs down here in Atlanta, because it's not the most popular apple to grow in these southern orchards -- so by the time my grocery store gets them, they are past their crispy peak.
Given the choice, I'd do a mixture of Macs and Cortlands, but I've also enjoyed going the Granny Smith route and upping my sugar just a tad. I love the tartness of the granny and how it holds up in the pie.
Taste Test: Finding the Best Apples for Baking
Honeycrisps are terrible for pies. Their amazing texture is best left raw. They're decent for sauces and stews but given that they're more expensive than other apples, you really shouldn't be cooking them - their texture when raw is unparalleled so just eat them as is!
The best apples for pies are Northern Spy, Stayman Winesap, and Newtown Pippin. I use a combination of the first two - there's something about that Pippin that I just don't like.
My favorite apples are Macouns - they work well in pies, too, but make sure to use small ones (large ones are overgrown and are mealy - Macs are meant to be small) and mix them with something else, like the Northern Spy.
Taste Test: Finding the Best Apples for Baking
Many bakers recommend a mix of apple varieties; I like Grannys for texture and Golden Delicious for flavor.
Taste Test: Finding the Best Apples for Baking
I'm a native of upstate NY and lived my first 40 years in the middle of apple country and most of the old-school farm ladies used 20 Ounce apples for baking and applesauce. Macs, Romes and Spies made frequent appearances too, but 20 OZ. ruled.
Taste Test: Finding the Best Apples for Baking
for my money, gala is the way to go for apple pies--nicely done. most outstanding taste test ever, and that's that.
Taste Test: Finding the Best Apples for Baking
I love SE taste tests. Thanks. I don't make many pies, but I love to eat Fuji apples.
Taste Test: Finding the Best Apples for Baking
I'm a Rome person. I swear by Rome Beauty and Red Rome for pies, turnovers and fried apples with pork chops. Luckily, we have an independent year 'round produce market nearby that stocks them during pie season.
I like Paula Red and Cindy Red for baking, too, but they're really hard to find.
Taste Test: Finding the Best Apples for Baking
Personally, I hear all this hype about Honeycrisps, but every one that I've bought has been very disappointing. My favorite eating apple of all time is the Jazz apple, but when not in season, a regular old Fuji beats a Honeycrips everytime, if you ask me.
Serious Heat: What's Your Secret Chili Ingredient?
The key is suet. Almost impossible to find in New York these days, but the butchers at Ottomanelli will scoop it out of the porterhouse sides by hand if you ask them nicely. Browning the beef (and pork if you use it) in rendered suet gives an incredible depth of flavor.
Beyond this I use freshly ground anchos, pasillas and especially guajillos, with pequins or birdseyes ground in by hand to taste as the chili cooks. My guide is John Thorne, though I add tomato paste and sometimes beer (to deglaze) or pork belly if I have a taste for it. And... onion powder. So not politically correct all the way. But SUET... if you can find it. Some butchers have openly laughed at me when I asked for it. "We used to feed it to the birds!" said one East Village butcher, otherwise a kingly establishment.
Taste Test: Finding the Best Apples for Baking
You guys read my mind. I was seriously just looking for an article like this a couple of days ago. I found that NPR one that's under "Related," but this one certainly makes me happy, since Galas are easy to find (and inexpensive) to get around here! And I do enjoy Galas as raw snacking apples too, so extras will not go to waste.
@Kerosena, Macs are my favorite to eat as raw snacking apples. I don't care if they're not the most crisp apple in the world, because the slight tart perfect taste makes up for it. I don't think I've ever baked with them though, for whatever reason.
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I always use a combination of apples for pie, usually including Macoun and Cortland, Empire and others, depending on what is available. I slice the harder apples thinner than the others, for even baking. I love Honeycrisp apples for eating out of hand, but they are among the worst apples for pie.