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Lippy

Weekend Cook and Tell: Put an Egg on it!

I'm surprised no one has mentioned fried egg over creamed spinach or polenta. I like to shallow fry the egg in olive oil over rather high heat to get crispy lace edges. Toward the very end, I sprinkle the yolks with grated parmagiano-reggiano and put a lid on the pan to facilitate melting. A shake of pimenton is also good.

Buying a Cast Iron Skillet On a Budget

Good luck finding bargain Griswold pans. They are usually more expensive than new Lodge or Wagner, for two reasons -- they are no longer made and they are much lighter in weight. Make that three reasons -- once seasoned, they are truly nonstick.

Black Radish - What do I do?

Slice them very thin and use the slices as you would potato chips for dip. They are classic with chopped liver, but also terrific with a red pepper or bean dip. I always pile the dip in a bowl and arrange the slices around the edge like a necklace.

What kitchen tools have you barely used?

I hate the food mill and don't own a microwave. I couldn't live without my toaster oven.

Grace/prayer at a dinner party

I have never been subjected to this at an ordinary dinner party. Holiday behavior and expectations are different for both hosts and guests.

The Nasty Bits: Lamb Ribs

I've had so much trouble finding that cut that I've given up.

How did you do with 2011's New Year's Food Resolutions?

I lost 15 pounds.

Seriously Delicious Holiday Giveaway: Korin Knife

My favorite is a small paring knife with a very thin blade that fits my hands perfectly and allows precision cutting.

Seriously Delicious Holiday Giveaway: Filet Mignon Roast from Pat LaFrieda Meats

5 Ways to Organize Your Spice Rack

I have two shallow four-feet long shelves mounted on the wall. They hold dozens of spices and I can vary the size of the bottles, and in some cases, even stack them. Most of the time, I use or re-use the bottles the spices came in. I keep the bottles in more or less alphabetical order. This system is as cheap as they come and has worked perfectly for me for 35 years.

Have You Ever Dry Brined a Turkey?

I always dry-brine, usually with a paste of salt, pepper, sweet paprika, pimenton, crushed garlic and butter, olive oil, goose fat or duck fat. I also use this to roast chicken. Even a couple of hours will add flavor and help make the skin crisp. With this paste, no basting is necessary, or desirable. The skin will be crisp and delectable.

The New 'New York Times' Restaurant Critic: Pete Wells

I didn't mind the first Cooking with Dexter, but my first thought upon hearing that Pete Wells got the gig was that I hoped we wouldn't be experiencing restaurants through Dexter.

The Food Lab Answers Thanksgiving Questions: On Sides and Desserts

Not too sweet cranberry sauce:

Blanch three 3-inch strips of zest from two large navel oranges for one minute and mince. Peel the oranges, cut them into quarters and add to a bag of cranberries along with the zest and whirl in the food processor until very finely chopped. Remove from processor and add 3/4 cup honey and 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger. Allow to macerate for at least one day.

Raw Milk...yay or nay

I was raised on unpasteurized milk from the Walker-Gordon farm in central New Jersey. The milk was "certified," i.e., thoroughly inspected by I'm not sure which agency. The milk tasted much, much better than pasteurized milk. A popular school trip was a visit to the farm to see the cows on a circular milking platform. The cows and the farm were spotless.

I have no idea what a quart of milk produced this way would cost nowadays, although I know it would be prohibitive. The farm is now a retirement community.

Raw milk has to be produced under extremely sanitary condition in order to be safe. We not talking about an upset stomach here, but the danger of tuberculosis of the bone, a very serious and debilitating condition that causes sever curvature of the spine. If the milk is produced properly, it is safe, but it's hard to know.

I am 69 years old and have the bone density of a much younger woman. I can't say that raw milk is the cause, or even a contributing factor, but I like to think so.

How Ceramic Coffee Drippers Stack Up

My Melitta doesn't sit in the back of the cupboard. It's been in steady use for decades -- long before the current fad took hold. After much trial and error, I settled on Oren's Daily Roast Sumatra Mandeling ground on #4, and pour a pre-measured amount of water directly out of an electric kettle that I take off its stand when the water starts boiling, somewhat before it would stop of its own accord. I use Trader Joe's brown paper filters with the cone, and pour the water in a slow circle to wet the grounds. Then I add a bit more and finally pour in the remaining water, again in a circle. The result: a perfect cup of coffee.

Classic Pumpkin Pie

I make James Beard's recipe, substituting bourbon or rum for the cognac, which takes pumpkin pie to a different level:
http://www.press-enterprise.com/turkey/html/james_beard_s_pumpkin_pie.html

Cook the Book: 'The Food52 Cookbook'

Apple pie. Fennel ice cream. Not together.

Spice Hunting: 5 Ways to Spice Up Fall Ingredients

Don't forget nigella, also known as charnushka. It's a small black seed that adds crunch as well as a flavor that's a combination of caraway and onion.

Weekend Cook and Tell: Roast Chicken Roast-Off

I butterfly the chicken by cutting out the backbone and pressing hard on the breastbone, so that it it relatively flat and cooks evenly, avoiding the problem of overcooked white meat and undercooked dark meat.

I rub the bird generously with a past of crushed garlic, salt, pimenton, sweet paprika, and either olive oil, duck fat or goose fat. The chicken is cooked in a 375 F. oven on a jelly-roll pan. I may or may not have put it on top of a few lemon slices. It's done with the skin is an appealing brown and crackling crisp --- from 45 minutes to a little over an hour, depending on the size of the bird. Transfer to a serving plate or carving board, cover with aluminum foil and let it rest for at least 5 minutes before cutting into pieces -- quarters or smaller -- with poultry shears or knife.

The only disadvantage of this method is that you don't get a classic presentation. No one will care when they realize that they all have a perfectly done piece of chicken with parchment-like skin. Carving is much, much easier and less risky when the bird has been butterflied. If you manage to remove the wishbone before cooking, so much the gbetter.

How many do you have, and what spices can you not be without?

73 jars on the shelf, 8 bags of whole Indian spices in the freezer. Can't do without pimenton, cinnamon, cumin.

What Food Do You Cook Better Than Anyone Else?

I've been told to add choucroute garnie and brisket.

What Food Do You Cook Better Than Anyone Else?

Vinaigrette, in many variations, and, by extension, salads. My husband calls me the salad queen.

Roast chicken -- perfectly cooked white and dark meat, parchment-like skin.

Seared scallops.

Apple pie.

The Burger Lab: An Even Better Way To Make Any Cheese Melt Like American (This Time in Slices!)

Why not just slice raclette or fontina with a cheese plane and got right down to the eating?

Spice Hunting: Turbinado Sugar

I used it the other day when I was all out of plain ol' white sugar to make a bit of jam from some of the figs that got bruised on the way home. I'll never go back.

Discovering Tomato Pies at DeLorenzo's Pizza in Trenton, New Jersey

I grew up on DeLorenzo's (Hudson St.) and I can tell you that it was even better before the fire that led to the replacement of the old coal oven.

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