We've been on Chris Bianco overload for the last couple weeks around here, but the maestro had one more surprise up his sleeve that we couldn't possibly ignore. What if we said he just opened a new trattoria and a second Pizzeria Bianco in Phoenix? Okay, what if we told you we already checked out both? More
You probably heard that Chris Bianco is opening up his second pizzeria, but that's only part of the story. We had a long talk with him to find out about his new place in Tucson, what's driving him thirty years into his illustrious career, and how he got to be so damn good at making pizza. More
Oh, what a difference a decade makes. Ten years ago, Village Pizzeria was one of LA's top shops. Today, it's barely discussed in pizza circles. But did it change or did we? We returned after a long sabbatical to find out for ourselves. More
Every March, the pizza world comes together for at the International Pizza Expo in Las Vegas to show off their wares and give away thousands of free samples. Couldn't make it? Don't worry, we brought a camera. The Expo may be more about dollars and cents, but that doesn't mean we didn't learn a ton about where pizza is going and the people behind the industry. More
Sweet potato mousse crust? Check. Crab, bacon, salsa, and blue cheese dressing on the same pizza? Double check. What about cookie dough crust? You betcha. That can only mean one thing: We went to Mr. Pizza so you wouldn't have to. You're welcome. More
"Cheffy" is a word that can go a couple different ways. To some, it means high-quality, ingredient-driven food that's sometimes complex, but always skillfully prepared. Others use it dismissively, and even pejoratively, to write off fare that they view as pretentious, esoteric, or overly complicated. No matter where you come out on the usage, I can assure you of one thing: Gjelina serves cheffy pizza. More
Caleb Schiff started out with great pizza, but in the eighteen months since opening, the pies at Pizzicletta have only gotten better. Need proof? Have a look at the transformation of the Amore oi Mari. More
When the word "wholegrain" is used in conjunction with "pizza," I am usually "out." But when renowned baker Peter Reinhart came up with a new sprouted grain dough for Charlotte's Pure Pizza, it immediately became a must-try. The party line for sprouted grain is, "all the nutrition of whole wheat with the taste of white." So is there truth in advertising? More
Pizza in Los Angeles has become kind of a high art/low art scene, and the rest of the country doesn't seem that different. It's like you're either a down and dirty slice joint or a gourmet shop pushing premium toppings at primo prices. Enter Urbano Pizza Bar, a downtown LA establishment that attempts to skirt the line between the two poles with trendy toppings and "artisan" crust, but in a more accessible package (read: slightly larger portions). More
Nobody cares who makes their pizza at your chain du jour, but at critically acclaimed spots like Paulie Gee's and Kesté, having a pie made by the boss is an honor. But is the pizza appreciably better? Do some pizzaioli have magic in their hands? To find out, we talked to two people who would know. More
If you're visiting Slice, there's a very good chance that you're obsessive about your pizza. You've eaten your 10,000 slices, you've developed an excellent palette...and you no longer have any time in your life for shitty pizza. You want the pizza in the picture above. Well, unless you want to be in a prison of your own creation I would suggest you make a little time for bad pizza. Here's why. More
Skateboarding legend Salman Agah's Pizzanista! has garnered quite the buzz in hip downtown Los Angeles, but when we checked in again last week, we ended up with a tale of two slices... More
Bez Compani is as obsessed about Neapolitan pizza as anyone, but his restaurant, Mother Dough, is still flying under the radar in Los Feliz, despite plenty of raves. We went in to find out why and ended up eating some great pizza in the process. More
Pepperoni is becoming known as the most boring and predictable of all pizza toppings. So what does an old school place like Barone's do to compete in a post-pepperoni world? They double down and turn their thick-cut slices of pork into cheese bowls, of course. More
My biggest complaint with Mozza was always the Margherita, and the biggest problem with the Margherita has always, always been the too herby, overly tangy, borderline sludgy tomato sauce. Enter Bianco DiNapoli plum tomatoes. More
800 Degrees is leading the charge for a new group of Chipotle-like, fast casual pizzerias. But can assembly lines really produce a quality Neapolitan pizza? We got in line (multiple times) to find the answer. More
Neapolitan pizza has gained a solid foothold in America, but where does it go from here? Los Angeles' Sotto responds with more intense flavors and next-level char...but is that the right answer? We went in to find out. More
L.A. has picked its game up when it comes to gourmet pizza, but its still lacking in authentic New York style. Fortunately for Angelenos, Vito's Pizza has come to the rescue...via New Jersey. More
Casa Bianca Pizza Pie has been slinging pies since 1955 and carried around the "best pizza in the city" title for much of it, but is a great story and a heavy dose of nostalgia good enough to slice it in a post-Mozza L.A.? We went in to find out, and ended up in a pizza-style debate. More
Lance Roberts is known around Slice for his pizza pilgrimages. On his most recent tear through NYC, the LA Slice'r tackled the most epic pizza tourism itinerary to date, clocking 40 slices from NYC pizzerias in just three days. Here's how he did it. More
Stella Rossa advertises itself as a "pizza bar" and it delivers on both fronts. Their emphasis is on pizza and the guiding principle of the menu is using local, fresh and seasonal ingredients. Come for the crust, stay for the crust. More
In mid June, Slice reader Lance Roberts emailed me, asking if I'd help him complete his pizza itinerary. He was visiting New York City from Los Angeles, and he wanted to pack in as much pizza as he could--but only the best. I gave him some recs. He came, he ate, and then he wrote. What follows is a wonderful tale of 2.5 days of pizza mania. Buon appetito! --The Mgmt. An NYC Pizza Tour from an LA Perspective As a Los Angeleno who grew up in Detroit, it's a little odd that I love pizza so much. Neither city... More
Editor's note: If you read the Dear Slice letter yesterday from homeslice Lance R. asking for New York pizza-eating advice, you'll remember he mentioned a piece he wrote for us about Pizzeria Bianco in Phoenix. I forgot to run it when he sent it in. But here it is. No worse for the delay, I might add. Lance, sorry about spacing this; I'm an asshat. —The Mgmt. Sorry about the quality of the pics, I was too giddy about the food to focus. Anyway, here's the rundown. My friend Mat and I are in the same pizza obsession club with... More
@dhorst and shyboyje: Yeah, I kind of blew by that one. Shyboyje is right, he cooks his pies much longer than you would a Neapolitan pie, so by keeping the wood off the floor he can get a more even heat. And he also doesn't have to worry about any long-term wear to the floor because he can just put another slab in.
@Linebacker: That is pretty close to the reality, but you're the one arguing you shouldn't have to tip. If you want shift the cost to others and/or risk screwing over a driver who ends up getting stiffed the whole night, that's your business. I never said it wasn't anyone's right to be cheap, just know that you are actively hurting some guy's wallet who probably makes much less than you.
@Linebacker: Nobody is arguing that it would be more fair to pay a real wage to drivers (and service workers), forego the notion of tips, and raise the price of food. However, THAT IS NOT GOING TO HAPPEN ANY TIME SOON. Drivers take those jobs because society has decided on the whole that we will tip and after the extra money it makes sense. That is part of the deal on both sides. If you didn't get tipped, it wouldn't make financial sense to deliver pizzas for any person and there would be no delivery. You are arguing principles and ignoring the reality we live in.
I'm always confused by people who want to push back on inefficiencies in society by taking it out on the low end of the totem pole. There are so many stupid financial constructs in our world...maybe choose your battles better?
@Linebacker: What is different from you working in KFC? Uh, car payment, gas, maintenance, repairs, insurance. He's putting miles on his car so you don't have to. The whole carrying your food thing is the least important part of the transaction.
I was waiting for the "why do we tip?" stuff. I don't have any problem with anyone questioning the service industry tip structure, just don't act like you're a freedom fighter if you stiff some poor bastard who is trying to make child support. The reason we currently tip is simple -- the extra cost of a real living wage are being passed on to the consumer. You are being given the choice to be cheap instead of the owner. It is not fair, but it is what we have right now.
Nobody would ever put thousands of miles on their own car, pay for repairs, and stink their vehicle up for life for minimum wage. You aren't paying a pizza delivery guy to hand your pizza over with a smile, you're paying him for using his own gas to drive over in shitty conditions so that you can finish Colbert. Why WOULDN'T you want to tip?
@Kelly: Don't bring objectivity and reason into this.
@tea-and-syncope: As a former English major I shudder and blame Mr. Pizza.
@SkyHigh: Don't smear my post with facts. I think you're right, but I always think of Gjelina first because of the Spice Girl thing.
@Adam: To be fair, the pizza usually looks a little better. With that said, I did go twice. My bigger issue is less with the annoying molten char bubbles and more the hollowed out portions that break apart when you take a bite.
@jo_wang: I liked it. But I think you could cut 15 minutes out of it.
@f r y: Why didn't you tell me you were f r y when I saw you before Christmas? I just blew ten minutes going through your comments trying to figure out where you were making pies at.
It's funny, the first time I walked in to your place (like at 5:30 on a Friday a couple years ago) looking to order, I got a version of the "next pick-up time is this or you could get it later" speech. It did not come off as sarcastic, but it did make me feel like an idiot for not calling ahead.
@cpd: I checked with David. He uses cornmeal. He tried it with and without and preferred it with. There's also another deep dish place called Zelo around here that uses a TON of cornmeal -- that's their claim to fame even -- so it can obviously be done. Maybe it's that LA water?
@cpd: I've had Gino's, Malnati, Uno, Pizano, Pequod's, Burt's, etc. The sausage patty is lean and doesn't have any noticeable fennel. But if it's a garlic sausage, that particular flavor gets a little lost in the sauce.
Also, David didn't look to Chicago as a guide, he hasn't been back in a while. He developed his own recipe in San Diego, and we're pretty sure there's cornmeal in it.
@Will: I caught you on a slow night a while back but pizza and service were both on point. When I get back to Portland I'll be back for sure. Really loved the interview, too. I love when pizzaiolos aren't afraid to be honest.
So much to hit from this post. First off, 8PTHMD is my favorite annual slice post so I really hope it never ends. I've gone back to the other posts over the years and they've been great guides for what to order specifically when I'm traveling. And though I don't find this year's list lacking in any way, the fact that you A. have already had most of the great pizza in the country in previous years and B. have 90 percent less free time in your life, obviously earns you a mulligan if you wanted to take it. But it's obviously not necessary. The Speedy Romeo was killer. The cheese slices make me incredibly angry/jealous. And TXCraig1's garage is on my pizza bucket list.
Also, I'd be interested in seeing some kind of post covering the division on Slice that dmc and imwalkin alluded to: the homecook versus the diner. I put in a ton of work this year to figure out how to make genuinely good pizza (though I'd still get laughed off pizzamaking), and I really love cooking for friends, but I would MUCH rather eat at one of the greats (or even the really goods) than make my own. I honestly find it more satisfying to eat something I could never duplicate. Oh, and I love not cleaning up. But I think it's really interesting how these completely different worlds collide here.
Finally, following the rules of the game (new experiences only), here's my personal list in no particular order:
1. Garlic and chili peppers (but honestly, anything) at Great Lake in Chicago
2. Grandma slice at Lo Duca in Brooklyn
3. Vodka Slice at Rubirosa in NYC
4. Sicilian slice at L & B Spumoni in Brooklyn
5. Half sausage/half Sopressata at Emilia's in Berkeley, CA
6. Margherita at Apizza Scholls (I'm cheating since it was in November of 2011, but it's still haunting me)
7. Bianco DiNapoli Margherita at Mozza2Go
8. That damn Del Poppolo truck I keep missing. Went up to SF last weekend and got UPN, Emilia's, Zero Zero, and Delfina...but Darsky was off for the year.
@Caleb: Are you telling me you didn't invent Cacio e Pepe?!
@Adam L.: "It gets better."
@Adam K.: I think I owe you two thousand more recs before you have to say thanks.
Thanks to everybody chipping in with their thoughts and opinions.
@mfrapp: Very kind.
@Adam L.: I was going to ask you about Scholls, GREAT example. That place is amazing. And Pettit didn't make my pie at Delancey but it was also killer.
@cspirou: You should read down to the part where I basically agree with you.
I think the reason I don't get delivery is because I delivered pizzas for so long. I end up spending way too much in tips because I know how awful a deal it is for drivers and their cars. Gas and repairs eat up the bulk of your money and you get the extra bonus of seared-in pizza smell for life.
@imwalkin: I actually do make pretty good (friends say really good) pizza, but I have a lazy streak you dodged. And though I agree that anyone can learn to make good pizza, it takes real effort, and not everyone is up for it.
@smsingram: I really appreciate that. It's exactly what I was going for.
@Tim: We are sympatico.
@Joe: If Taco Bell works let me know and I'll pick up some Trader Joe Scotch.
@hard2handle: Ha, I was waiting for that one. The Blue was a gift. I never drink anything but single malt, but that was the most recognizable bottle I have and everyone knows that JW is Scotch. In other words the pic is for clarity.
Thank you Sonny! Shit's about to get crazy in LA via Detroit.
I'm sure Adam tackled myths and why it's profitable to traffic in them a couple times before, but we're probably due for a refresh. Obviously the closer you get to any subject, the more cracks you see, and that's especially true for the restaurant business. I imagine most (if not all) shops play up their narrative, and it's something I've gotten better at sniffing out. I really try to take everything I hear with a grain of salt. John Wozniak, on the other hand, has large rocks of salt on hand for posts like this one. He is my pizza skeptic, he keeps me in check, and he also knows 382 times more about pies than I do. But...
...regarding Mother Dough, I feel pretty comfortable with Compani's story. I've seen him doing the dirty work and I trust the people I spoke to for the piece. Could I have been snookered? Sure. But the reason I went into all of his obsessive details is that the pizza ISN't at a national or "road-trip worthy" level -- even if his devotion is. I think that shows how truly difficult it is to make great pizza consistently. I hope that's what came through, not any myth making.
Oh, and SkyHighGluten and Wozniak? You guys need to have a sourdough sitdown with a side of cold, hard pizza truths.
I really enjoyed this. Great piece. And I'd love for someone in out west to try to crack the Detroit code.
I can't explain how confused I was about this place until I read this. Great piece, Kenji.
The single best food you ate in 2012? Can you even answer such a question?! Upon serious reflection, we sort of did. From breakfast in Israel to sandwiches in Chicago to a kale salad in the Bay Area, here are the very best bites the Serious Eats team ate, all over the globe, this year. More
"We can be on best of lists and people can talk about snipping the basil 30 seconds before they put it on the pie, but the only thing that really matters is that primal reaction when you put it in front of someone and they say, 'This is fucking delicious.' Nothing else matters." More
Stella Rossa advertises itself as a "pizza bar" and it delivers on both fronts. Their emphasis is on pizza and the guiding principle of the menu is using local, fresh and seasonal ingredients. Come for the crust, stay for the crust. More
@Mike: They didn't have the goat special the day I was there so I'm not sure what they're doing with it. It's definitely roasted, simple, and good though.