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STEINGARTEN AND I HEAR THE DINNER BELL!
Is there a difference between a food writer and restaurant critic?
I think there is a real difference. One is a subset of the other. As in:
1) Writer
.........i) Food Writer
.................(a) Restaurant Critic
Just because a person writes about a restaurant in grand detail, doesnât make that person a critic. And usually restaurant critics, who are constrained by a word limit, do not have the luxury to wax philosophical unless they are really good--in a Confucian sort of way.
Though the characteristics of a great food writer and a great restaurant critic bleed into each other, I think a critic must possess some rather unique traits.
A great restaurant critic has:
*an eidetic taste memory
*a biologically great palette
*a sense of humor (anyone who disagrees with this, show me one great restaurant critic without one)
*a bottomless pit instead of a stomach, or at least the ability to supress the satiation response
A great restaurant critic is:
*a great writer
*obsessed with food
*a good home cook
WIN DINNER WITH ME AND A FAMOUS FOODIE!
I donât believe that the greatest restaurant critic lives in Chicago, but I do think that in order to critique a critic, you must at the very least, eat what they eat. So with that in mind, my vote is for Mike Sula of the Chicago Reader
Who?!
Sulaâs an obsessed foodie, who pays no attention to the celebrity of chefs. He eats and writes with a fearless wit and has a distinctive point of view that includes a sense of value, both monetary and aesthetic. He refuses to drag his readers through the mundane and loves to highlight the weird.
Smokin' Smoked Sausage
AUTHOR: Kristina
EMAIL: trixiepea@gmail.com
IP: 68.253.254.191
URL:
DATE: 06/15/2006 11:14:19
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Recent Comments | Response to Comments
Why do the French Fries at Blue Smoke suck?
I'm usually too occupied with the hush puppies & jalepeno jelly to worry about the fries. Actually now that you mention it, I can't even remember ever eating fries there.
STEINGARTEN AND I HEAR THE DINNER BELL!
Is there a difference between a food writer and restaurant critic?
I think there is a real difference. One is a subset of the other. As in:
1) Writer
.........i) Food Writer
.................(a) Restaurant Critic
Just because a person writes about a restaurant in grand detail, doesnât make that person a critic. And usually restaurant critics, who are constrained by a word limit, do not have the luxury to wax philosophical unless they are really good--in a Confucian sort of way.
Though the characteristics of a great food writer and a great restaurant critic bleed into each other, I think a critic must possess some rather unique traits.
A great restaurant critic has:
*an eidetic taste memory
*a biologically great palette
*a sense of humor (anyone who disagrees with this, show me one great restaurant critic without one)
*a bottomless pit instead of a stomach, or at least the ability to supress the satiation response
A great restaurant critic is:
*a great writer
*obsessed with food
*a good home cook
WIN DINNER WITH ME AND A FAMOUS FOODIE!
I donât believe that the greatest restaurant critic lives in Chicago, but I do think that in order to critique a critic, you must at the very least, eat what they eat. So with that in mind, my vote is for Mike Sula of the Chicago Reader
Who?!
Sulaâs an obsessed foodie, who pays no attention to the celebrity of chefs. He eats and writes with a fearless wit and has a distinctive point of view that includes a sense of value, both monetary and aesthetic. He refuses to drag his readers through the mundane and loves to highlight the weird.
Smokin' Smoked Sausage
AUTHOR: Kristina
EMAIL: trixiepea@gmail.com
IP: 68.253.254.191
URL:
DATE: 06/15/2006 11:14:19
Papaya King
AUTHOR: Kristina
EMAIL: trixiepea@gmail.com
IP: 68.251.64.240
URL:
DATE: 05/26/2006 10:17:01
WIN DINNER WITH ME AND A FAMOUS FOODIE!
By that measure, in my experience -- and I've followed his taste recommendations in both New York and San Francisco, in high-end restaurants as well as holes-in-the-wall -- the best food writer I know of is Ed Levine.
Glad to hear someone ackowledge that reviewing food is something that should be accible to the other 95% of restaurant goers, not just those who like to feel superior. A review of a meal that only 5% of your viewers would ever consider eating is just forgetting your audience or perhaps just appeasing yourself over them. Reviewing food in your mind is for the chef, reviewing it in your words is for readers.
Papaya King
A few years ago I went to New York to sample hot dogs. Three of the places I went to served the same recipe Sabrett all beef dog; Papaya King, Gray's, and Katz's. That particular day the Katz's dog didn't spend enough time on the griddle, Gray's dog was fine, Papaya King's dog seemed fresher and better. This past summer, I went to New York again with the Newark Star Ledger. This time, all 3 were equally as good, except the bun at Papaya King fell apart. I would go with Gray's since they are cheaper. But all 3 use the same recipe dog; the Papaya places use a 10 to a lb dog, while Katz's is slightly bigger. But the exact same recipe. I have this on authority of several Sabrett distributors as well as the person in charge of private label at Sabrett, now owned by Marathon Enterprises.
I prefer the spicing in these dogs to the natural casing Nathan's in Coney Island. But all 4 are excellent. For an all beef dog that surpasses these, I suggest making the trip to N.J. to go to Syd's. They recently moved from Union to Springfield. The dog served is a 5 to a lb natural casing dog from Best Provisions that is simmered in water, then charbroiled. The result is a dog that was named best in Jersey by the Star Ledger (we went to N.Y. as well) and a bus load of hot dog fanatics that attended my 3rd annual New Jersey Hot Dog Tour. Did you know that Sabrett, while considered by many to be the quintessential New York hot dog, actually began in New Jersey. On Cole and Henderson St. in Jersey City, until the company was sold to Marathon in East Rutherford N.J. The dogs are produced at the Stahl Mayer plant in the Bronx. They also make a beef/pork dog that is used by The Hot Grill, Callahan's, and The Windmill; all New Jersey hot dog joints.
WIN DINNER WITH ME AND A FAMOUS FOODIE!
My favorite restaurant âcriticâ is the Zagat guide. While the consumer-based surveys are not sophisticated, they give me a sense of the restaurantâs food, service and atmosphere. Iâve consistently found their reviews to be on target and I like being able browse by ratings, top lists and location. Whenever I travel, I use the Zagat guides to orient me to the restaurant scene and give me ideas of places to try and places to avoid. Everything I want is accessible, easily read, easy to interpret, relatively trust worthy, and is contained in one very portable little red book.
WIN DINNER WITH ME AND A FAMOUS FOODIE!
I love Trillan, Apple and the Sterns, but they don't write about restuarants I eat at, so my favorite food writer is...me! That sounds cocky, but I honestly feel I'm a damn good writer. I know about food, I'm always learning about wine and I love my job (one of the food writers for "The Tucson Weekly").
Local food critics at other publications don't share the passion, talent or knowledge I bring to my work. I've done other food related work and people always tell me that my articles make them hungry. What better compliment for any food writer?
STEINGARTEN AND I HEAR THE DINNER BELL!
This unanswerable question's answer is Calvin Trillin. A man who lures his daughter back from California with bagels, who enlists his wife's Chinese students to decipher the Chinatown menus, who refuses to ever dine at "le maison de la casa house", who taught us how to pack a proper airplane meal, is a man who deserves his place in the Pantheon. He discovered American cuisine while it was learning to crawl. Nothing has been the same since.
In a time when food writing is bursting with more talent than the '27 Yankees, we must honor the Ur-men: Ruth. Escoffier. Trillin.
WIN DINNER WITH ME AND A FAMOUS FOODIE!
Iâd like to mention a food writer who has set higher standards for fearless honesty in the medium I work in, the internet. In Regina Schrambling I trust. She knows how to cook and it shows. Sheâs not afraid to call out a naked emperor when PR flacks are trying to sell us new clothes. She answers the simple question those of us who donât have bottomless expense accounts ask: Will I go back? No florid sycophantism, no tenuous metaphors, just a sense of place, service, and taste in a pithy package.
STEINGARTEN AND I HEAR THE DINNER BELL!
In spite of both my foodie and former New Yorker / food industry-insider status, the NY Times restaurant reviews always made me feel like an outsider. So the hiring of Frank Bruni by the Times was long-overdue fresh air. Heâs a fantastic, entertaining writer, though to me his success is because he writes like someone with a regular person's palate. He loves both high-end and low-end food. His words arenât high-falutin, theyâre real. As a reader, you sense he's one of us, not above us. As such, he's made fine dining suddenly accessible to all. That's why he rocks.
STEINGARTEN AND I HEAR THE DINNER BELL!
Last year, I moved to New York shortly before my birthday. It proved to be a truly awful birthday - I had to wake up at 5 am to dress up as the Pillsbury Doughboy (no joke!) for a temp job. Coming to New York seemed like the biggest mistake of my life: what city could be worth the humiliation I'd just suffered through? Then my roommate gave me a birthday present - a copy of Robert Sietsema's Food Lovers Guide to the Best Ethnic Eating in New York City. I started flipping through the chapters, and I think I just about read the whole thing cover to cover that night. Sietsema introduced me to the city as a collection of edible jewels, to be sought out and prized, there for the brave diner to seek out and enjoy. I found several listings for eateries in my own neightborhood of Crown Heights, and a few days later I made my way to AA Bake & Doubles to try the cheap Trinidadian chickpea sandwiches known as doubles. Thanks to Sietsema, I knew I that "doubles" applies even if one is only buying a single sandwich ("I'll have a doubles, please"), and I felt at ease in the tiny storefront even as I stood out like a sore thumb. But on a larger scale, I knew that I was in the right place, that the sacrifices I would make to survive in New York would be well worth it. A year later, whenever I feel frustrated or dispirited by a crowded train or the sight of another Starbucks, I pull out that slim yellow book and set off, in person or in my mind, to try the best dish I've never heard of.
Why do the French Fries at Blue Smoke suck?
Megnut is absolutely correct. In-N-Out fries are amazing, especially when eaten out of the same box as the burgers. In your car. That glorious aroma spreads throughout the whole interior, and lingers long into the next day. Too bad they don't make a car deodorant in that scent!
WIN DINNER WITH ME AND A FAMOUS FOODIE!
Linda Bladholm writes about global cuisine for The Miami Herald with a sense of adventure, and she expertly uses language to convey the sense of the restaurant, the feel of its menu and ambiance, and the taste of its food. Her warmth jumps off the written page and her columns are extremely compelling.
I have been to several restaurants that she reviewed and found her reviews to be right on base. She is knowledgeable about the cuisine of the restaurant, and in terms of the larger context, how that cuisine fits into the uniqueness of Miami.
WIN DINNER WITH ME AND A FAMOUS FOODIE!
Calvin Trillinâs writing on food, travel, culture and life make me feel a personal connection to him and his subject matter. His infectious enthusiasm is endearing, and his command of the language gives his writing authority and clarity.
Although Trillinâs accomplishments are enviable, he never condescends. He projects a warmth and trustworthiness that make him convincing and thought-provoking. And besides feeling that it would be a privilege to know him (his dedication to his late wife, Alice, and his three daughters is inspiring), the idea of going to a restaurant that he particularly liked is just plain exciting.
Why do the French Fries at Blue Smoke suck?
Every time I've been to Blue Smoke, the fries have indeed sucked. Sure, the rest was pretty good, but they fries really stood out.
I'm glad Ed took it right to them. They need to get their act together. Plenty of dumpy joints with tiny kitchens make good to great fries. Blue Smoke is a huge place. None of their defenses for the lousy fries is believable.
Why do the French Fries at Blue Smoke suck?
I seem to recall that the first time I ate at Blue Smoke, the fries were great. Subsequent to that visit, they were not. Is my memory of the first visit unreliable or did they once use fresh potatoes?
Almost everyone I know likes the French fries at Shake Shack. I've never understood why. They suck. It's nice to know someone agrees with me. They are a poor excuse to consume ketchup, a condiment I generally avoid.
Why do the French Fries at Blue Smoke suck?
I'm not really a French fry person, but I find the Shake Shack fries tolerable if doused in cheese sauce. Perhaps Blue Smoke should do the same.
STEINGARTEN AND I HEAR THE DINNER BELL!
Everyone, regardless of socio-economic class, deserves an escape. Ruth Reichl went to absurd lengths to ensure that the restaurant experience was an egalitarian one. As importantly, she blew the doors off of the then staid NY Times by reviewing
restaurants that weren't the typical haute French and Italian temples frequented by the wealthy. She investigated the all-night Korean barbecue joints, the Chinese dim sum houses located in (gasp) Queens,while also even giving those who could afford it their first look behind the noren at sanctuaries such as Kurumazushi and Honmura An.
--Guttergourmet
STEINGARTEN AND I HEAR THE DINNER BELL!
My favorite food critic is you Mr. Levine! and of course Mr. Steingarten!
Really!!
I just sat down to read my email and ended up here within five minutes as a result of going to the food section website and saw your website listed and had to click in. Then I read about this dinner you are offering - registered and wha - la - sending you this posting. Had no idea what I was doing and posted 3 photos of this foodie cutie - apologize for the "x" as I said I did not know what I was doing.
I absolutely know what I am doing now.
So you and Jeffrey used to be on one of the PBS stations years ago and I watched the show religiously. I even ventured up and down Sullivan Street to look for the best baguette per you and you were right!! Then I bought your book - New York Eats (More) - carried it with me each weekend driving all over the city with my boyfriend in search of all your picks.
Then sadly to say, you and Jeffrey were missing.
Then success (for me and you)see you are writing for the New York Times - stilll have no idea where Jeffrey is - Is he still with Vogue or am I confused?
I finally got to meet my food idol. A couple of years ago ironically after cleaning my house and prepraring for passover I had the idea to to to have pizza in Totonnos (you know no leavin things for 10 days) I walk in and saw you Mr. Levine (not to be confused with leavin) and I totally flipped out saying to my boyfriend and father - THERE'S ED LEVINE - THERE'S ED LEVINE ! (It was also the day SLICE was there - photos of you and the crew on the SLICE website). I felt embarrassed to go up to you - but had to - cause you were my FAVORITE FOOD CRITIC- IT WAS GREAT - WE ENDED UP SHARING A CANNOLI WITH MR. TOTONNO (stated he bought them from Fortunatos - the best - he must be right cause my lifelong Italian friend who was raised in Greenpoint only bought her cakes there).
Dinner with you and Jeff would totally flip me out - we already had dessert together - and you know what they say - why not have dessert first?
Estelle
STEINGARTEN AND I HEAR THE DINNER BELL!
AUTHOR: Stelly
EMAIL: estelle.haber@verizon.net
IP: 70.107.13.71
URL:
DATE: 11/01/2006 18:26:29
WIN DINNER WITH ME AND A FAMOUS FOODIE!
Jonathan Gold is:
Versatile. Reviewed art, music, and architecture in past critical incarnations.
Nuanced. Delves deeply into regional cuisines and discusses the impact of agriculture and economics on cooking.
Virtuosic. Reviews have visceral immediacy: blowfish like a âtreacherous, iridescent flower,â a âseething, volcanic massâ of tofu, âgarlic-reeking Alps" of short ribs.
Entertaining. You can read âCounter Intelligence,â his anthropology of L.A. foodways, like a book of short stories.
Intrepid. If the health department closes a restaurant, heâs probably eaten pig uterus, goose intestines, or crispy frog skin there.
Indefatigable. Who else would eat at every Pico Boulevard restaurant?
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Hands down, my choice is Peter Meehan. He writes about restaurants I can afford in neighborhoods Iâm not tired of going to. The big time NY critics pick greatly anticipated new arrivals and well established old timers, rarely venturing outside of Manhattan. Peter takes us to Red Hook, Bushwick, and Astoria, to hofs, taquerias, areperias, and kimchi stands. I would know nothing about the subtleties of Korean twice-fried chicken or Russian dumplings without Meehanâs articles. Additionally, Meehan is my favorite critic because he seems like heâs having fun, always mentioning the music playing in the background while he eats.
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Jeff Steingarten, author of âThe Man Who Ate Everythingâ and âIt Mustâve Been Something I Ate: The Return of the Man Who Ate Everythingâ is a star among contemporary food writers. Jeff indulged his obsession with food by giving up a law career and becoming a food critic. He is the winner of numerous awards from the James Beard Foundation and the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Jeff approaches food writing with discipline and gluttony, and his writing is entertaining, thought-provoking, authoritative and witty. Jeff has been called our most original investigative food writer and I could not agree more.
- Pam@erogers.net
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Self-described âalpha houndâ Jim Leff, cofounder of chowhound.com, uncovers secret deliciousness around New York and around the world. Jim leads an on-line community of adventure eaters and has written for publications such as Newsday, Slate, Wine & Spirits, The New York Times, Time Out New York. He is also a regular contributor to The Next Big Thing on NPR. Right now Jim is crisscrossing North America on a two-month delirious road trip in search of hyperdeliciousness. This eclectic and off-beat food writer will go to culinary extremes to find edible treasures that are cooked with heart and soul.
pam@erogers.net
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There's one more criterion I'd like to add to your list: infallibility. In other words, if you follow the writer's advice, are you ever likely to have a bad meal?
By that measure, in my experience -- and I've followed his taste recommendations in both New York and San Francisco, in high-end restaurants as well as holes-in-the-wall -- the best food writer I know of is Ed Levine.
It isn't sucking up if it's true.
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I have relished the simplicities at Sushi of Gari , been transported to the briny coast of Amalfi by Le Bernardin, dreamed of lazy days and earthy cigars at Cafe Habana, felt improper at the propriety of Honmura An, tasted the bravura of real lox at Barney Greengrass, suffered disappointment at the hands of David Chang, endured the post-coital regrets of Koreatown, cried at the loss of 2nd Ave deli, laughed at overindulgence of per se, applauded the performance at Double Eight Palace, relished the company of MY diner, sipped my dreams at Milk and Honey, and hoped for acceptance at Il Mulino. But I have not yet dined with Frank Bruni.
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Self-proclaimed love child of James Beard and Julia Child, Jim Harrison brings a poet's voice to food writing filtered through the lens of a writer of screenplays. He describes his meals with an almost mysticism as he hunts game birds in the woods near his Michigan home and prepares them utilizing classic French technique or dining at the top restaurants in LA and NY on the movie studio's dime. Sharing the gourmand's disease with him , i.e. gout, he made me laugh and cry when he mourns about having "one foot in the grave" (technically one toe) after overindulging.
-Guttergourmet
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I didn't grow up in a home with gormet cooking, nor did I grow up in a metropolis with an abundance of delicious resaurants to choose from. Alas, I grew up in the western Sierra Nevada, in a small mountain town, with my Mom who was a single mother, and worked two jobs. Her busy schedule kept her from long stints in the kitchen and lead her straight to the quick and easy meals. Perhaps that is what sent me nose first into a pluthera of cook books. I will never forget my first encounter with "The Silver Palate," it was not only a spiritual awakening but it was when I first found out that not everything is cooked in a crock pot. After that I have been on what some would call a pilgrimage to learn, see, experience, and taste everything that involves food. This is where I have come across Anthony Bourdain, Ruth Riechel, and Jeffery Steingarten, and I have to say, that I have been truely inspired by Mr. Steingarten. I promise I am not sucking up, I don't even want to win, I just wanted to put in my two cents. His honesty and sincereity are inspiring, and who knows more about single ingredients than he? His writings have sent me into numerous amounts hunger fits. My newest food fantasy involves a long Steingarten tour of Eurpoe, stopping at all the restaurants and B&B's he speaks so highly of, and then to come home with a waist wider than my smile. His hours spent perfecting recipies in the kitchen shows exactly how dedicated he is to his job. He always leaves me wanting more, and that is, after all, the job of any food critic, restaurant, and/or chef.
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I'm usually too occupied with the hush puppies & jalepeno jelly to worry about the fries. Actually now that you mention it, I can't even remember ever eating fries there.