Kerry Saretsky’s Profile
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French in a Flash: Bouillabaisse Pasta
Sorry Simon! I was trying to be punny. I guess it didn't translate at all! I know, they do have nice wines. They don't even say Cassis the same way, do they? Haha oh well. Hopefully my next pun will work better! Thanks for all the info. I love your comments.
French in a Flash: Pizza Savoyarde
@hungrychristel: Creme fraiche, is, from what I've found, very traditional in pizza savoyarde anyway. Good call. And yes, substitute prosciutto for sure. I have even used Serrano as a sub for jambon cru or Jambon de Bayonne.
@Chris: Thanks for the tip. And can you find Reblochon? I actually had a very hard time getting it in the States, as apparently there are some tight laws covering its importation. If you can, I'm sure we'd all love to know where. Otherwise (for everyone else!) substitute the kind of cheese I mentioned in the ingredients.
@Tracy: Let us know how it comes out! I hope you love it.
I was also thinking, a nice addition to this might be a drizzle of truffle oil, if it suits your fancy...
French in a Flash: Pizza Savoyarde
Oh, the Calanques! I think that was my favorite part of the trip.
Let me know how the smoked salmon works out. Sounds like a great idea.
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Black and Orange: Shrimp and Black Olive Orange and Lime Ceviche in Little Gem Lettuce Cups
Posted by Kerry Saretsky, October 31, 2009 at 3:00 PM
French in a Flash: Bouillabaisse Pasta
Posted by Kerry Saretsky, October 29, 2009 at 4:45 PM
Snapshots from the UK: Brothers Toffee Apple Cider, a Caramel Apple-Flavored Beverage
Posted by Kerry Saretsky, October 29, 2009 at 2:00 PM
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Recent Comments | Response to Comments
Snapshots from the UK: Brothers Toffee Apple Cider, a Caramel Apple-Flavored Beverage
I got it in my MCR bar, which stocks up at a discount liquor store down the road. Sorry that's not the best place to advertise where to buy it, but I have seen it for sale online as well. Try:
http://www.thedrinksmenu.co.uk/alcohol/Brothers_Bottled_Ciders.html
French in a Flash: Bouillabaisse Pasta
Sorry Simon! I was trying to be punny. I guess it didn't translate at all! I know, they do have nice wines. They don't even say Cassis the same way, do they? Haha oh well. Hopefully my next pun will work better! Thanks for all the info. I love your comments.
French in a Flash: Pizza Savoyarde
@hungrychristel: Creme fraiche, is, from what I've found, very traditional in pizza savoyarde anyway. Good call. And yes, substitute prosciutto for sure. I have even used Serrano as a sub for jambon cru or Jambon de Bayonne.
@Chris: Thanks for the tip. And can you find Reblochon? I actually had a very hard time getting it in the States, as apparently there are some tight laws covering its importation. If you can, I'm sure we'd all love to know where. Otherwise (for everyone else!) substitute the kind of cheese I mentioned in the ingredients.
@Tracy: Let us know how it comes out! I hope you love it.
I was also thinking, a nice addition to this might be a drizzle of truffle oil, if it suits your fancy...
French in a Flash: Pizza Savoyarde
Oh, the Calanques! I think that was my favorite part of the trip.
Let me know how the smoked salmon works out. Sounds like a great idea.
French in a Flash: Sorrel Shrimp Rissoles with Artichoke Aïoli
Definitely zest! I would keep leaves to a minimum, to keep the inside as dry as possible. Just look for a slight flavor accent. So, I would just choose a nice, fresh, soft-leaf herb. My favorite would be chervil, but you could do parsley, or chives, or tarragon, or dill, depending on where you wanted to take it. You could also just leave out the sorrel entirely, as the artichoke aioli has a lot of flavor.
French in a Flash: Lavender-Apricot Chicken Drumsticks
Great! I can't wait to hear how it turned out. That will be so interesting!
French in a Flash: Lavender-Apricot Chicken Drumsticks
Thank you, plaurel and ElizabethS!
And hungrychristel: Thanks! You could definitely do this with a little bit of fresh rosemary instead of lavender, or maybe some fresh thyme, or just some good black pepper. And, another way I like to do it is with currant jam. I think, just avoid the really sweet jams--anything that you can see going sweet or savory would be fine. Marmalade could be terrific. But I'm not sure about, say, a blueberry preserve. Let us know what you try!
French in a Flash: Carrot Muffins with Sweet Chèvre Icing
I understand, everyone. I feel like my original premise was making these recipes quick and easy, and sometimes I think I stray too far from that, so this was an effort to make something very readily accessible, that was "in a flash" and still good. I happen to really like them. But I hear you. Maggiej, you're completely right. I used the Betty Crocker Cinnamon Streusel muffin mix, omitting the streusel topping. I hope you enjoy the icing!
The Secret Ingredient (Harissa): Harissa-Honey Glazed Roasted Salmon
@Gipsygrrl: Amazon sells it! Try this.
The Secret Ingredient (Harissa): Harissa-Honey Glazed Roasted Salmon
@Nikki: Absolutely. I would let the chicken roast, similarly to the salmon, naked for a bit, and then add the glaze later. I think it will work great. Let me know how it turns out!
@avisualperson: Exactly! Chutney and jam sounds great with harissa.
@cxg231: I have actually never seen that show! Can you believe it? Did they make something similar?
French in a Flash: Tarragon Chicken
Rhetor, YOUR spelling is interesting! I think I may have to rethink this too. I think you may be right...
Snapshots from the UK: Rules, London's Oldest Restaurant
AnnieFannie and unarata: I'm so interested! I've never heard of sea beans. Are they common in a particular part of the country?
Snapshots from the UK: Rules, London's Oldest Restaurant
Oh, shoneyjoe, I'm so glad you love it too! I'm thrilled it brought back good memories. As I'm sure you and other frequent Serious Eaters know, Memory Lane seems to be my favo(u)rite address.
And can I just reiterate that we need to start importing Marsh Samphire into America immediately, and must all start eating it in vast quantities. It's amazing!
The UK's Biscuit Injury Threat Evaluation
Another reason to eat Jaffa Cakes! Has anyone ever found the apple and blackberry variety? It's on the back of the box...but I've only ever seen chocolate orange.
French in a Flash: Drunken Angel Hair with Leeks and Cream
@cienfuegos: You're absolutely right that you shouldn't cook with wine you wouldn't drink. I always use wine that's drinkable. When I say I use wine that I don't like, that's not to say that nobody likes it. It's a decent wine; just maybe one that I personally don't want to sip out of the glass again. In my house, there's always one too many bottles of white wine open in the fridge. So, for me, truth be told, when I'm making this dish, it'll usually be like, gosh, I still have this, better use it up! Clearly, nothing else is being done with it. That's what goes into the boiling water. The sauce, however, is reduced, and especially because you are adding raw wine at the end, that flavor will be more distinguishable when you make the dish. So for that, you may want to think a bit more. If the wine was acidic, or you just didn't like it, it's true--you won't like it in your food. As I was doing my actual tests to write this recipe, I used the $4.50 white wine that you see pictured above--the one that I usually pour into my water at dinner! It worked perfectly. Because you have the cream and the leeks, what you're really getting from the wine is a nudge of flavor, an alcoholic hint. I would not use an expensive wine here, because I think it will get lost. You taste wine, but you can't taste WHICH wine. But, this proves the point that good wine is not always expensive. So, to sum up, don't waste something you'll miss, but don't treat the pasta water like a sewer either.
French in a Flash: Drunken Angel Hair with Leeks and Cream
I know, Wilma! I found the most gigantic leek I've ever seen at my farmers market! It's actually what inspired this dish. Reheating tips (because I've been there): nonstick saute pan with a lid, dash of water, dash of cream (or milk or half and half), and let it heat through before you move it around too much, or the angel hair will tend to break.
French in a Flash: 'Summer' Lobster Sandwiches with Zucchini Frites and Heirloom Tomato Salad
Thanks, CharlieB. I never thought I would find either! Oh, I just checked D'Artagnan, and they do mail order duck fat for those of you not in the Miami area. Maybe we can make duck confit and potatoes Sarladaise as soon as the weather turns cold... Yum! I've never been to Marky's, but their truffle section alone is tantalizing. I'll have to check it out. Thanks again!
French in a Flash: 'Summer' Lobster Sandwiches with Zucchini Frites and Heirloom Tomato Salad
Thank you, Mr. Guy! And dhorst, let us know how it turns out...
Mario Batali's Jarred Pasta Sauces
So, I have now officially had all four sauces. The Marinara and the Vodka are tied as favorites, but I'll tell you this: the Arrabiata packs serious heat. I stirred into some penne with an unorthodox scoop of ricotta, and even with the cheese, it was fiery!
Mario Batali's Jarred Pasta Sauces
@Walter F: What I've been doing is cooking the pasta to al dente, putting the sauce into the pot on fairly high heat, and then tossing the pasta in and cooking it until the pasta has sucked up the moisture. It's been working brilliantly. Maybe try that next time?
What to eat in Marseilles
Absolutely bouillabaisse, and I agree also with Simon that you should have soupe de poisson with its rouille. That's my personal favorite. Other Provencal dishes to look out for are fantastic pistous, in both the green and red varieties, aioli, which is a boiled fish and vegetable dish with a garlic mayonnaise, and one of my favorites, which is a Nicois tradition, but you may find it in Marseille, which is zucchini flower beignets. Also, ratatouille, and all of their fantastic dips and spreads. I wrote an article about it for Serious Eats a while back. Here it is. Things like anchoiade and tapenade with baguette are just to die for. I also love caviar d'aubergines. I have never actually eaten anywhere in the city of Marseille aside from my family's house, but I've spent some time in the coastal town of Cassis not to far away, and Chez Gilbert has the best bouillabaisse in town. I understand from hearsay that Miramar is the most reputable bouillabaisse restaurant in Marseille, so you may want to try that. Report back and let us know what you found!
Dried lavender buds in NYC?
I'm sorry I don't know about Brooklyn, but I always buy them at Eli's on 81st and Third in Manhattan. Call ahead to be sure, but I think they're a sure thing. Good luck! What are you making?
Riding the Eurostar for the Food
Aha! That takes vigilance. Sometimes, you do risk missing the window. It's a matter of availability and not of timing. But you want to look for when the price between economy and leisure is within about 30 dollars.
Frozen Shrimp: To Use or Not to Use?
I live on frozen raw shrimp. I make enchiladas and stir fries and pasta dishes and shrimp salads...everything. It's just so much cheaper, and I really don't see the difference. The only time I insist on buying the freshest I can find is when they stand alone: like grilled jumbo prawns. Then, and perhaps I only imagine it, I think I can tell the difference. But I don't feel the same way about frozen scallops, or lobster tails, or fillets of fish. It really does change the texture. But, shrimp, I don't know. They seem to work.
French in a Flash: Pizza Savoyarde
Well, we finally got around to making our own version of the Pizza Savoyarde and, in the words of my daughter, it's a keeper.
We sourced the closest thing to Reblechon, "Prefere de Nos Montagnes"
($14.99/lb) from Union Market (http://www.unionmarket.com/) in Park Slope, Brooklyn. It is a washed-rind cow's milk cheese from the Savoie.
We also used pizzeria-purchased dough.
We made two versions: as I indicated in my previous comment, we're not a meat-eating household, so we substituted smoked salmon (also from Union Market). One version was true to the recipe you provided above, using the smoked salmon instead of the jambon cru. We were not happy with the look of the arugula in our local market, so we used baby spinach instead. For the second pie, we eliminated the cheese beneath the yukon gold potatoes and substituted dollops of creme fraiche with a sprinkle of finely chopped chives. Of course, with the pie warm, the creme fraiche melted and found its was around the pie.
Using pizzeria-bought dough, the total preparation time for both pies was less than forty-five minutes. We loved both pies and can easily see starting a meal with them the next time we cook for friends.
Here is the link to photos on flickr of both pies:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/46303442@N00/
Thanks, Kerry. Keep those great recipes coming!
French in a Flash: Bouillabaisse Pasta
@simon: Thanks for the heads up! I added some info to clarify things. :)
French in a Flash: Bouillabaisse Pasta
No worries, just thought I'd clarify it :)
French in a Flash: Rustic Roast Duck with New Potatoes, Sugar Snaps, and Spring Onions
... better to eat, even. Ha!
French in a Flash: Rustic Roast Duck with New Potatoes, Sugar Snaps, and Spring Onions
This was just fantastic to read. I bet it'll be even better to read. Thanks so much.
French in a Flash: Pizza Savoyarde
Kerry,
I live in Asheville, NC, and a local market named Earthfare has a pretty broad cheese selection; they often carry Reblochon. More and more, I have found very interesting cheeses produced here. American cheeses are getting more complex and some are as deep as Reblochon.
Cheers,
Chris
French in a Flash: Pizza Savoyarde
Did you know that Dominos in France make the Savoyarde? I discovered this when scouring the internet for a suitable recipe for the pizza. Anyway, did not score on the French Reblochon either. The cheesemonger at Dean and Deluca said she is having a hard time getting it. So I am substituting Swiss reblochin instead. Struck out on the Bayonne as well, so I am going to try both proscuitto and speck. I think the slight smoke of the latter will be very very good!
French in a Flash: Pizza Savoyarde
Kerry,
Thanks for a very good entry, I am happy to have found you and the pizza. I have been having fun with grilled pizza which would work with the Reblochon but I'd have to do the potatoes earlier. Reblochon was one of my father's favorites.
I have looked at your blog (and saved the link, I will be back!) We both read some of the same people. I'd like to recommend my favorite pastry site, Foodbeam. You probably know it, but she disappears from time to time, but she is back with very good things. Her recipes and photography are superb and she is fun to get to know.
Thanks again,
Chris, NC
French in a Flash: Pizza Savoyarde
mmm smoked salmon would totally work. Maybe with some dollops of créme fraische avect un petit dill.
I really like the potatos on this. A lot. I could use prochutto instead of Jambon de Bayonne, right? I don't know if my local deli has it.
French in a Flash: Pizza Savoyarde
Many years ago, while on vacation in Italy, my husband enjoyed a pizza with potatoes in the town of Varenna on Lake Como. We've never seen pizza savoyarde on the menu in this country. A few weeks ago, while in the French village of Bonnieux in Provence, he got to taste that special pizza again at La Terrasse. I am so happy you have shared your recipe. I know what we're having for dinner tonight!
Frozen Shrimp: To Use or Not to Use?
A little fun fact: Sushi grade fish is always previously frozen to kill any potential harmful parasites. There really is no such thing as fresh seafood when you buy it in stores. And many of us have never tasted fresh shrimp since we don't catch and cook it ourselves on the same day.
Snapshots from Paris: Lobster Sandwiches and Goose Fat Fries at Spring
That lobster looks like it was poached with butter, "sous vide".
French in a Flash: Lavender-Apricot Chicken Drumsticks
I've been planning to make this since it was posted, and I finally got around to it tonight. I made it (mostly) as written; it was amazing! I cooked my drumsticks the same way Alton Brown cooks his chicken wings; steam them first to remove fat, then bake till crispy. I also put the lavender in the glaze along with a dash of soy sauce for salt and depth. They were crispy, sweet, slightly charred, and with just the right amount of lavender. Went perfectly with rosemary-spiked roasted root vegetables (sweet potatoes, rutabagas, and beets).
French in a Flash: Lavender-Apricot Chicken Drumsticks
followup@kerry et al: The rubarb (sp?) preserve was unsweetened so I added honey to the glaze mixture. Twas devine!
I also included some port I had in the cubpard--it made the glazes' colour quite nice. I almost wish it would have had less of a 'runny' texture. Perhaps I could have thickened it with something else? This could have been a personal preference for me but it still tasted PHENOMENAL
I used some fresh thyme from Papa's garden (I'm on an anti-rosemary kick lately: don't ask why) and lots of fresh cracked pepper. I garnished with some grey salt too (did I waste it? LOL)
So yes! Thanks again for the inspiration :)
Mario Batali's Jarred Pasta Sauces
I'm with the other posters on here. If I wanted a recipe i'd have asked for one. Bought Mario Batali's sauce last night at Food Emporium in midtown Manhattan.
"Pasta sauce, almost by definition, is fast and easy to make. Stop wasting your money on these BS, corn syrup-laden monstrosities. " Uh, there is no corn syrup or sugar added to the Batali sauces. They are incredible!
Keep you comments to facts girlie...
French in a Flash: Lavender-Apricot Chicken Drumsticks
I only make one recipe with lavendar and its biscotti with honey lemon and lavendar and it smells lovely (like tea or really good soap). I think this could be made with some apricot puree and brandy or vermouth and actually cooked down to a thick glaze.
I am really disappointed that people are afraid to make sauces anymore.
It is not hard to cook down fruit.
French in a Flash: Lavender-Apricot Chicken Drumsticks
I tried cooking with lavender when I was testing recipes for a certain popular french food blogger, and bought them at a local health food store.
If memory serves the recipe included stone fruit and a syrup with lavender. My boyfriend had one bite and said 'this tastes like soap. my grandmother's soap'. That was the end of cooking with lavender for us.
French in a Flash: Lavender-Apricot Chicken Drumsticks
Excellent Kerry: can't wait! I have this home-made rubarb(?) preserve from my neighbour at home I've been dying to use in a savoury application
I plan to use drumsticks and thighs - so excited now.
I'll try and follow-up and let you know!
Mario Batali's Jarred Pasta Sauces
just bought this at publix in central fl for $6. i chose the arribiata sauce because i wanted some heat. IT WAS HOT!! delicious, but if you aren't into spicy foods..this is not for you.
French in a Flash: Carrot Muffins with Sweet Chèvre Icing
you haven't lost me, Kerry. i am making these this weekend and will report back...
French in a Flash: Multigrain Spaghetti with Pistou Forestier
Made this for dinner last night and it was a HUGE hit with all four of us, including two kids. Fabulous and the house smelled AMAZING as it was cooking. Wonderful recipe and came together fabulously quickly for a weeknight. Hearty enough (with the prosciutto) for a meal, but would also be great (in small servings) for a first (pasta) course. Nom nom.
French in a Flash: Green Tapenade Pasta Salad
Excellent and unusual taste.
Snapshots from the UK: Rules, London's Oldest Restaurant
I was in London alone, and the waiters at Rules treated me like a queen--bringing me extra everything, including their wonderful bread. Soups at Rules are also wonderful.
The Secret Ingredient (Harissa): Harissa-Honey Glazed Roasted Salmon
This sounds outstanding. I love harissa - my aunt introduced me to this awesome spicy spread about a year ago. What a great idea for a Rosh Hashanah main course!
The Secret Ingredient (Harissa): Harissa-Honey Glazed Roasted Salmon
Any thoughts on where those of us not living in an urban center can find harissa? I was looking for it this winter for a tagine and was told that World Market stores once carried it - but no longer. Thanks!
Recent Posts
Black and Orange: Shrimp and Black Olive Orange and Lime Ceviche in Little Gem Lettuce Cups
Posted by Kerry Saretsky, October 31, 2009 at 3:00 PM
French in a Flash: Bouillabaisse Pasta
Posted by Kerry Saretsky, October 29, 2009 at 4:45 PM
Snapshots from the UK: Brothers Toffee Apple Cider, a Caramel Apple-Flavored Beverage
Posted by Kerry Saretsky, October 29, 2009 at 2:00 PM
Black and Orange: Black Pepper-Crusted Sliced Steak with Crème Fraîche Sweet Potato Mash
Posted by Kerry Saretsky, October 28, 2009 at 10:30 AM
The Secret Ingredient (Liquid Smoke): Smoky Hogfish and Pepper Escabeche
Posted by Kerry Saretsky, October 26, 2009 at 11:30 AM
Black and Orange: Black Sesame Seed and Sea Salt-Crusted Salmon with Wasabi-Lime Sauce
Posted by Kerry Saretsky, October 25, 2009 at 11:00 AM
French in a Flash: Pizza Savoyarde
Posted by Kerry Saretsky, October 22, 2009 at 5:30 PM
Black and Orange: Black Bread with Manchego, Marmalade, and Hazelnuts
Posted by Kerry Saretsky, October 20, 2009 at 7:00 PM
The Secret Ingredient (Liquid Smoke): Smoky Bison Sandwiches
Posted by Kerry Saretsky, October 16, 2009 at 12:00 PM
French in a Flash: Sorrel Shrimp Rissoles with Artichoke Aïoli
Posted by Kerry Saretsky, October 15, 2009 at 5:30 PM
The Secret Ingredient (Liquid Smoke): Black Bean Soup with Smoked Sour Cream
Posted by Kerry Saretsky, October 9, 2009 at 2:30 PM
French in a Flash: Lavender-Apricot Chicken Drumsticks
Posted by Kerry Saretsky, October 8, 2009 at 6:00 PM
French in a Flash: Summer Berry Rissoles
Posted by Kerry Saretsky, October 2, 2009 at 11:30 AM
The Secret Ingredient (Harissa): Salade Cuite
Posted by Kerry Saretsky, September 30, 2009 at 11:45 AM
French in a Flash: Green Tapenade Pasta Salad
Posted by Kerry Saretsky, September 24, 2009 at 5:45 PM
The Secret Ingredient (Harissa): Harissa-Fried Scallops
Posted by Kerry Saretsky, September 23, 2009 at 10:30 AM
French in a Flash: Carrot Muffins with Sweet Chèvre Icing
Posted by Kerry Saretsky, September 17, 2009 at 5:00 PM
The Secret Ingredient (Harissa): Harissa-Honey Glazed Roasted Salmon
Posted by Kerry Saretsky, September 16, 2009 at 11:30 AM
Snapshots from Paris: Perrier with Smaller Bubbles
Posted by Kerry Saretsky, September 11, 2009 at 2:15 PM
French in a Flash: Tarragon Chicken
Posted by Kerry Saretsky, September 10, 2009 at 5:00 PM
Snapshots from the UK: Rules, London's Oldest Restaurant
Posted by Kerry Saretsky, September 9, 2009 at 4:30 PM
French in a Flash: 'Summer' Lobster Sandwiches with Zucchini Frites and Heirloom Tomato Salad
Posted by Kerry Saretsky, September 3, 2009 at 4:45 PM
The Secret Ingredient: Squid Ink
Posted by Kerry Saretsky, September 2, 2009 at 1:15 PM
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Snapshots from the UK: Parma Violets
Posted by Kerry Saretsky, December 16, 2008 at 5:00 PM
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About Kerry Saretsky
Website: http://www.frenchrevolutionfood.com
Location: New York City
About: I'm a former Serious Eats intern, a writer, and a student taking a gap year between masters at Oxford. You'll probably find me in the kitchen concocting modern French recipes--and devouring them!
Favorite foods: Lobster. French Fries. Truffles. all Cheese. Artichokes! fabulous Bread. Lemon Tart. Salt. Carrot Soup. Macarons. Brussels Sprouts and Haricots Verts and Broccoli. and absolutely anything flavored with Rose.
Last bite on earth: Laduree's rose macaron--no contest.

I got it in my MCR bar, which stocks up at a discount liquor store down the road. Sorry that's not the best place to advertise where to buy it, but I have seen it for sale online as well. Try:
http://www.thedrinksmenu.co.uk/alcohol/Brothers_Bottled_Ciders.html