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Dinner Tonight: Easy Hot and Sour Soup
@Nick, you definitely don't to use a fine, aged balsamic in lieu of black vinegar, but a decent mass marketed brand will give you enough complexity and sweetness (perhaps a touch more than you want) to replicate the flavor of black vinegar. Regular rice vinegar is sharper than black vinegar and wouldn't blend as well.
Dinner Tonight: Easy Hot and Sour Soup
Balsamic vinegar would be a more appropriate substitute to black vinegar. It has a similar flavor profile and acidity.
The Nasty Bits: Duck Tongue
I have been quite eager to broaden beyond my favorite fuqi feipian at my local Chinese restaurant and now it looks like duck tongues in hua jiao dressing might the perfect rich and spicy option!
@Burger365, I often see duck tongues available at Chinese markets either frozen or by the lb. in the butcher's case.
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Recent Comments | Response to Comments
How to Torture an Eggplant, or Make Tortang Talong
Burnt Lumpia is one of my favorite blogs. The writer is a real treat to read -- he'd be a great guest writer around here come to think of it!
Dinner Tonight: Easy Hot and Sour Soup
@Nick, you definitely don't to use a fine, aged balsamic in lieu of black vinegar, but a decent mass marketed brand will give you enough complexity and sweetness (perhaps a touch more than you want) to replicate the flavor of black vinegar. Regular rice vinegar is sharper than black vinegar and wouldn't blend as well.
Dinner Tonight: Easy Hot and Sour Soup
Balsamic vinegar would be a more appropriate substitute to black vinegar. It has a similar flavor profile and acidity.
The Nasty Bits: Duck Tongue
I have been quite eager to broaden beyond my favorite fuqi feipian at my local Chinese restaurant and now it looks like duck tongues in hua jiao dressing might the perfect rich and spicy option!
@Burger365, I often see duck tongues available at Chinese markets either frozen or by the lb. in the butcher's case.
Raising the Bar: Finger-Lickin' Good at Bar Blanc Bistro
The pate is terrific. Very rustic with chunks of pork and meaty nuts, it is perfect with wine or beer.
Jim Leff: 'Foodiots' Need to Get a Life
I can understand how Mr. Leff might come across with some supriority in his tone, but I don't think that compares to the vanity and superficiality of babbling foodiots. There's no passion for food to inspire them, so much as reveling in the experience of dabbling in the fashion of cuisine and broadcasting that to the world. Foodiots might obssess over food much as anyone here, but engaging with them is often like talking home economics with toddlers playing House. There is no depth, no real interest in food because they are not talking about food in the first place, so much as they are talking about themselves and their narrow rung on the ladder. When Mr. Leff talks about Hounds chasing the "shiny big things," he speaks to the deeper self-absorption of the foodiots who aren't writing about food; they're sharing their personal takes on the hottest and the newest, holding forth on their rarest open secrets as if beating UrbanDaddy to the punch earns them a medal as they grandstand on the Manhattan boards, monologue on their Blogspot self-shrines and populate our Facebook Feeds with endless portraits into their special lives.
The Nasty Bits: From Beak to Claw, Chicken and Duck Feet Steamed with Shiitake
You are even more expressive and elegant than some native-born writers! I can't wait for the next dispatch from the hinterlands of culinaria.
Serious Heat: The Quickie Banh Mi
This isn't too different from my quick banh mi except I use headcheese instead of pork chops and cannot imagine offering up a banh mi without a healthy dash of fish sauce.
French in a Flash: Tarragon Chicken
I love your anthropomorphosizing tarragon as a feminine flavor. There is something mysterious, risque and veiled about it, an indiscernible flavor I can't quite place. That said, I'm not much of a fan, but I occasionally have some lying around and perhaps your saute might be a better use than Poulet au vinaigre a l'estragon.
What Are Eggs Blindfolded?
I've seen Jacques Pepin do something similar to prepare what he called the perfect "mirror eggs" (oeufs miroirs).
I Want This: Ensaimadas
Although it may be difficult to find Mallorcan ensaimada in NYC (if not impossible), you can find Filipino ensaimada at the better Filipino bakeries in Queens. Krystal's may be your best bet.
Who Likes Grape Soda?
I love grape soda more than life itself! One of the major selling points for my last apartment on the Upper West Side was that the local market sold diet grape soda, which was my white whale living downtown. I haven't seen it in a couple years and would appreciate any tips!
Dinner Tonight: Chicken Fried Steak with Cream Gravy
My basic recipe is fairly similar except that my preferred fat is lard in which I also fry crumbled breakfast sausage to make the gravy base.
The Nasty Bits: Menudo Rojo, or Red-Chile Tripe Soup
@Chichi, I think we're trying to describe the same elusive quality of tripe. Not exactly chewy, not exactly tender, but in this delicious space in between. Something to be tasted in order to be comprehended!
Gyro Pizza at Italian Express: Love the Concept, Less Excited About the Reality
When I was growing up in Chicago, this was where we would get our pizza and fried chicken. If I learned one thing, it is this: do not trust a place that sells pizza and fried chicken under the same roof. The pepperoni tastes like a cross between soujuk and old hot dogs. The sausage also lost something in translation. I don't think they had gyros pizza when I went there, but it is interesting enough a concept to try at home. I have a Gino's in my freezer, perhaps I might try topping it with some Kronos.
The Nasty Bits: Menudo Rojo, or Red-Chile Tripe Soup
I love menudo -- it is one of the best imports from our neighbors down south. But I would take issue with your description of tripe's texture. Well-cooked tripe should be tender. The initial resistance of the outer membrane yielding to an almost gooey center. If tripe is too chewy, it hasn't been cooked long enough. If, however, it is melting into your stew, you know you've gone too far in the other directoin.
Tasty $1 Treats in NYC
There's also grilled squid, lamb and chicken next to the Manhattan Bridge mall for $1. I have yet to see deep-fried tripe anywhere, though.
First Look at Mantao Chinese Sandwiches
The sandwiches are a decent size for lunch. The bread is fantastic, but I agree with the assessment of all the proteins. I'm hoping they improve with time as I could easily see them becoming my favorite local lunch.
Some New Food Words for Merriam-Webster's Dictionary
Mohammed was worried that the carbon footprint of his açai tea and schwarma with goji berry raita woud be considered haram by those stuffy locavores in Dubai.
'What We Eat When We Eat Alone'
I almost always eat alone, which frees me to make anything I want, whether it be the slice of cheese on a cracker I had for breakfast or the fusiony morcilla and kimchi lettuce wraps I had for dinner last week. I can go small as with the tandoori chicken I'm having for lunch, or as elaborate as the pasta con sarde and fiddleheads I had for lunch on Friday.
The Nasty Bits: Tongue Tied
I'm with the others, this is my favorite column on the site. I love the truly interesting dishes you have to offer, Chichi, and you can be certain I will be trying out your tongue recipe very soon. It should be an interesting change from my normal estofado braise where tongue is braised until so tender that it can be cut with a spoon and served in a sweet soy sauce.
Dinner Tonight: Soy Poached Chicken
Mushroom soy sauce adds depth of flavor to the broth. Light soy would be too little, so mix that with dark soy (or kecap manis) for something more savory. A little orange peel and cinnamon bark will also spice the sauce and cut through fat if you have an especially lardo chicken.
The Nasty Bits: Lamb's Neck Stew
Thank goodness my parents exposed me to every bit of the animal and then some! I still remember being a kid and seeing strange veiny ovals in the halal butcher's case and asking "What's those?" In Middle Eastern slang, the butcher drily giggled, "Eggs."
Neckbones make a particularly flavorful stew with white beans and kale, but I would not call bones offal. I think that word is reserved for entrails and those bits that frighten more than they attract.
Dinner Tonight: Chicken Adobo
Geenersaurus - do dilaw or atsuete sound like what your father puts in his adobo?
This sounds like an interesting take on an old favorite. I might swap black vinegar for the balsamic to keep things a little more economical. Like other commenters I agree that reducing the braising liquid and frying the meat and smashed garlic until crisp is a must. That concentrated sauce served over the crunchy chicken skin is addictive.
The New Breed of NYC Hot Dogs: Are They Really Better?
The hot dog at Elettaria should definitely be added to this list! It has great flavor, decent snap and comes with a sinus cleansing Asian mustard.
Serious Eats City Guide Premiere: New York (How to Leave Here Pleasantly Full)
@Ed: I think most New Yorkers might be over the Shake Shack burger - am I alone here? There is an amazing burger down in FiDi at a hotel bar - I would definitely add it to the list - at The Libertine..
Dinner Tonight: Easy Hot and Sour Soup
Do you think that Kitchn recommended regular white vinegar because it would blend more easily into the dish? I can't honestly remember the last time I used white vinegar. Maybe its relative lack of taste and straightforwardness is suitable for this mission, when you just need that sharp shock. Obviously, it's not recommended when black vinegar is available.
Thanks everyone for the comments. This is fascinating.
Dinner Tonight: Easy Hot and Sour Soup
Rice vinegar to me tastes like diluted white vinegar with a splash of sake added, very different flavor profile from black vinegar, bland, kind of yeasty toasty smelling, not sour enough.
I agree industrial balsamic (the stuff you buy at the supermarket) is sort of in the same direction as black vinegar. Real balsamic is not, it's far too sweet and thick.
Dinner Tonight: Easy Hot and Sour Soup
Rice vinegar is an interesting idea and it'd have towork. I just was just following the recipe as is written in the Kitchn, and not wanting to screw things up. But I'll try that next time.
Is that really true about balsamic? That interests me to no end.
Dinner Tonight: Easy Hot and Sour Soup
We use rice vinegar.
Dinner Tonight: Easy Hot and Sour Soup
I'm surprised no one has suggested it: rice wine vinegar would be a good substitute for the plain white vinegar. It's slightly sweet, and has that distinctly "generally Asian food" taste
Dinner Tonight: Easy Hot and Sour Soup
*raises hand* my house has day lily buds, chinkiang vinegar and wood ear fungus. gotta love chinese moms. :]
Last time i made hot and sour soup, it was wonderful. I had all sorts of mushrooms/fungi (shiitake, wood ear, cloud ear, golden, king oyster) in the house. plus the lily buds, a can of bamboo shoots, dried-from-the-garden thai chilis, white pepper. So good.
I didnt add an egg, but it the pot was already so full, i didnt even think of it. :P
I should make more tonight!
Dinner Tonight: Soy Poached Chicken
I make something very similar to this.
Mei kuei lu chiew a rose flavored distilled alcohol. I would substitute unsprayed rose petals and chicken broth for the wine or rose water (which you can get at an Indian store). Of course, one doesn't consume the petals.
I have Bittman's book "How to Cook Everything". It is a really wonderful book. All of the recipes that I have made from it are very good.
Jim Leff: 'Foodiots' Need to Get a Life
Ahh, I see. So when Jim Leff raves about a pizzeria, it's because it's important, useful, and life-improving information, but when other people rave about a pizzeria, they're idly frothing. Gotcha.
The Nasty Bits: Duck Tongue
First I cant stop laughing cuz I keep thinking about the AFLAC duck. Second they look really funny stacked up like that. But I figure anything fatty and fried cant be to bad, I like cracklins. If anyone in Atlanta has a heads up on where to get some post it so I can quack my friends up!
The Nasty Bits: Duck Tongue
Mmmm duck tongue, how delicious art thou.
I have a small plastic container of duck tongues stewed in soy sauce in the fridge right now. Perfect tv snacks!
They actually had duck tongue as one of the ingredients presented to a challenger on The Next Iron Chef. Unfortunately, I didn't stay tuned to see what they did (the show was annoying after a while as most "reality" shows tend to be) with them.
@NWcajun: Lol...but also, the bone isn't normally eaten, but you sure can if you want. It's not splintery or hard, its kinda spongy and papery. Sometimes I chew on the little nub of bone to get all the extra flavor out.
I personally think the best part is the tiny bit of cartiledge on the end of the bone. It's a great texture contrast to the crispy-fatty meat!
@chanterelle: aww c'mon, live a little!
The Nasty Bits: Duck Tongue
@NWcajun: That has to be the comment of the week.
The Nasty Bits: Duck Tongue
Hi guys, I've only ever seen duck tongue sold at Chinese markets. Whenever I get a chance I buy several packs to squirrel away for a rainy day.
Gastronomeg: Let's see, I like to nibble on a dozen or so tongues per sitting, so I'm thinking that a pound would be 5 people, give or take?
With regards to the bone issue, you gnaw around the bone in your mouth - like a savory sunflower seed :)
The Nasty Bits: Duck Tongue
Funny, I was in a fantastic gastropub in London, England and this was one of the bar snacks. My mother didn't look impressed but I was wowed. My dad and I just had fresh home-made Scotch egg (still slightly soft) and black pudding-lined sausage roll instead. What a pub, the Bull and Last in case anyone is in the area (Highgate / Hampstead). I wish I'd tried the tongues now.
The Nasty Bits: Duck Tongue
@NWCajun - I don't eat the bone. But I didn't realize the interior was fat?!
The Nasty Bits: Duck Tongue
YES YES YES! Chichi, you are the best. I have so many wonderful memories tied to duck tongue. When I would visit my dad in Hong Kong he would always take me to Shenzhen for my favourite, duck tongue! I would love to recreate this, but has anyone seen duck tongue for sale in Toronto?
The Nasty Bits: Duck Tongue
Okay, I'm sold. Chichi, I love your posts!
The Nasty Bits: Duck Tongue
I am headed to H&M mart now!!! You say there is a bone down the middle, do you eat the bone or suck the meat off. (I'm talking about the duck tongue)
The Nasty Bits: Duck Tongue
I've seen plates of these at Deluxe Food Market in Chinatown (NY) and wondered how to cook them. So odd yet so cute. Thanks!
The Nasty Bits: Duck Tongue
omg yes. lovelovelove duck tongue
The Nasty Bits: Duck Tongue
I don't know why -- I'll eat most internal organ meat -- but for me tongue as a food is up there in the grossness stakes with eyeballs or genitals.
The Nasty Bits: Duck Tongue
I was lucky enough to have the Duck Tongue vinegrette at Babbo...sensational. Thanks foir a great article.
The Nasty Bits: Duck Tongue
It may not be duck, but the smoked beef tongue canapé at Hungry Mother in Cambridge, MA is one of the best things I've eaten all year. Don't be intimidated--it's a must order if you go.
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Burnt Lumpia is one of my favorite blogs. The writer is a real treat to read -- he'd be a great guest writer around here come to think of it!