Josh Mandel

The Food Lab: The Best Way to Temper Chocolate

Hi, Iluvtoeat,

Great discussion, thank you! One website here says that milk chocolate wasn't even invented until the advent of powdered milk. But later, it goes on to say that sweetened condensed milk is sometimes used (and they don't explain what it is about sweetened condensed milk that allows it to liason with chocolate, whereas regular liquid milk does not).

I will continue to research...

The Food Lab: The Best Way to Temper Chocolate

BTW, Kenji, this technique, right here, is the kind of thing you're teaching us to expect from you: brilliant and enormously useful. If I'd paid a year's subscription to some magazine (say, this one), and this was the only item in the whole year's worth, I'd have considered my money well-spent.

Thank you, and congratulations.

The Food Lab: The Best Way to Temper Chocolate


I belief that milk chocolate uses dried milk solids.

Perfect Apple Pie

I had the same experience as Steffano2 and several others here. The apple flavor (I used Golden Delicious exclusively, as the recipe calls for) was significantly weaker than I'd expected. I was reluctant to serve it because the apples just weren't very flavorful.

Other than that, it was just about perfect, indeed. Pretty as a picture, didn't fall, didn't leak a lot of juice, and the crust turned out beautifully even without the shot of vodka I've come to depend on. :-)

Forget Pumpkin Pie: Use a Waffle Iron for Quick Pumpkin Custard

Daniel, I have your book and love it! (I've also given copies as gifts.) Much success to you and I'm really glad to see you're here!

I may try this recipe tonight with the family, to get us in the pumpkin mood. Thank you!

Ultimate Birthday Cake From 'Baked Occasions'

Frenchsoda, sounds fantastic, and thank you for the advice re: vanilla. What brand did you use for the jimmies?

The Rise of Awesome Milk Chocolate

I'll put in a good word for Green & Black's milk chocolate as a fine entry point for those who are just dipping their toes into the world of dark milk chocolates. It's the first one I tried several years ago when I made up my mind to give milk chocolate another chance, and I was very pleasantly surprised.

Introducing the Ultimate Four-Layer, Candy-Packed Halloween Ice Cream Cake

I don't think plain chocolate wafers are at all hard to find. Just about every sizable supermarket I've been in carries Nabisco "Famous Chocolate Wafers." It's just that the box is hard to SEE since it's so small compared to its neighboring packaged cookies. They should pack 'em in a Pringles-like can instead of that long low box.

For the Best Sour Patch Kids, Go to a Show

People do not get enough blue food, period. It's the second-biggest health crisis facing Americans today.

Win a Copy of 'Baked Occasions'

Milk Chocolate Creme Brulee with Orange Buttermilk Sorbet, a recipe from an old issue of CHOCOLATIER.

Taste Test: The Best Frozen Puff Pastry

I love it when people use Martha Stewart as an example of a top-flight chef.

How to Make The Best Chicken Stock

Reading over both the article and the comments, it sounds like the best stock would be made with a combination of breasts and feet.

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Boeuf en Daube a la Albert Stockli, a recipe my parents used to make. Totally weird recipe, with red wine, olives, orange juice, lots of anchovies!

Should You Refrigerate Tomatoes? Further Testing Says...

The world has gone topsy-turvey! Next, you're going to tell us that you CAN'T actually rid your hands of garlic smell with stainless steel, or that you CAN'T fetch warts with a dead cat and some stump water!

The Best Slow-Cooked Tomato Sauce

I've got a pot in the oven as we speak, in its fourth hour.

If nothing else, it's worth it for the way it's perfumed the house/neighborhood.

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Buttermilk, cast-iron pan, triple-dipped so that it's unbelievably crunchy!

The Real Reason Sugar Has No Place in Cornbread

It's really strange how insistent some people are about the version of some food category or another (in this case, cornbread) is "correct" and "traditional" and "authentic" and others are not.

If you only read one page of one foodie book in your life, make it page 14 of Volume 1 of "Modernist Cuisine," on the myth of tradition. You'll never think of recipes in absolutes of authenticity again.

Taste Test: 1 Day, 23 Pop-Tart Flavors

Why You Should Stop Boiling Your Oatmeal and Start Baking It

Yvonne, many years ago, CI (while you were still there, I think) printed a recipe from a subscriber that described steaming oatmeal. Put a steamer insert in a pot, then fill the pot with enough water to submerge the steamer. Bring to a boil, add the oatmeal to the steamer, allow the oatmeal to boil in the steamer, for two minutes, then remove the steamer insert and pour out enough of the water to be below the steamer line. Put the steamer w/oatmeal back in the pot, cover, and let steam for 10 minutes (no need to put the heat on under the pot).

Oatmeal cooked this way is so fluffy and light that we've never gone back to regular oatmeal. I'm going to try this baked oatmeal, but really, it's gonna be hard to beat the steamed!

Taste Test: 1 Day, 23 Pop-Tart Flavors

I'm holding out for a tasting of all the varieties of Kellogg's Danish Go-Rounds.

Taste Test: 1 Day, 23 Pop-Tart Flavors

Why buy them when you can make them yourself?

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Having at last tried an egg cream made with Fox's U-Bet, can somebody PLEASE explain to me the fondness for that particular syrup? Is it just because it's made in Brooklyn? The chocolate flavor is negligible; it's mostly just sweet. Is this a triumph of tradition over taste?

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After decades of hearing about the Fox's U-Bet, I finally tried some. The flavor is about as far removed from chocolate as I think a product can get before simply being called "chocolate-colored sugar syrup." Despite being untraditional, I think even Hershey's syrup (or, better yet, Hershey's Special Dark syrup) would bring an egg cream a lot closer to being identifiable as chocolate.

Win a Copy of 'Sweet and Vicious: Baking With Attitude'

Marcel DeSaulnier's recipe for "Death By Chocolate," seven layers of brownies, ganaches, and mousses. I pull it out when I need to absolutely blow away everyone and the arteries they rode in with.

Bake the Book: Vanilla Cream Cheese Cupcakes With Black Raspberry Buttercream From 'Fruitful'

They look and sound delicious. Can't wait to try these!

Substitutes for conventional gelatin?

So there are a lot of dishes I'd love to make that call for gelatin. Trouble is, there are members of my family who Will Not Eat Pork (not for religious reasons, but because pigs are so intelligent). What do I do?

I remember well the big Emes Kosher Gelatin scam, so "Kosher Gelatin" is probably out. I've heard of "fish gelatin," which I'd be happy to use, but I haven't heard anything about how well it does compared to pig- and cow-based gelatin, or how to substitute it.

I've also seen carrageenan-based gelatin subs. Do any of those work, and, if so, how do you substitute?

Any guidance would be appreciated. I'm happy to place a big order for one of the so-called Modernist ingredients...