@RicoSuave I mostly copied a design from this site:
http://www.aleiens.com/profiles/blogs/wallace-the-weldless-brew

The part numbers on that site can be found at www.mcmaster.com. His price list is a little out dated, but it's pretty close. I went this route for now because I'm welding-impaired. This build did require the use of a good angle-grinder to cut the steel, so if you don't have experience in that area I recommend asking the help of a friend who does. He doesn't list everything on his site, so you can expect to spend a couple hundred more on a pump, hoses, quick disconnects and burners. It's a fun project though, so if you have the time and space I recommend it!

@cardinalsfan - that's a great question about the DMS, and one that I've never really heard a satisfying answer to. I've made a couple of these no-boil versions, I've also tasted Jonathan Moxey's version, and I've never been able to pick out a distinct DMS flavor. It's possible it just gets covered up with the tart flavors, but maybe there's a more technical answer.

@rhallen - I recommend trying at least one or two extract brews before moving up to all grain, but I agree with the above posters that you can probably move to brew-in-a-bag very quickly. Brew-in-a-bag is an all grain method that doesn't require a lot of expensive equipment. The only downside is that you can't make high alcohol beers, but for many people that's not an issue. I have posted several recipes on this site that use the brew-in-a-bag method.

As far as sanitizer goes, I never recommend bleach or ammonia based sanitizers. They can potentially leave off-flavors in your brew. As far as environmentally friendly sanitizers, I think StarSan is your best bet. I don't know much about that type of chemistry, but the company claims it's biodegradable and it won't harm "helpful" bacteria in a septic system. I think if you use anything other than commonly accepted brewing sanitizers (starsan or idophor), you're opening your brew up to potentially off-flavors or infection.

Lorenzo - I was convinced of the "must mash" technique for pumpkin for a long time, but talking to other brewers eventually changed my mind. After adding baked pumpkin to the boil and tasting the results, I'm not sure I'll ever add pumpkin to the mash again (even with an all-grain recipe).

rodisan - This is actually the first time I've used maple, and I have to say the flavor came through surprisingly well! It is definitely a better and more interesting beer with the addition. I think the trick is getting the very dark "Grade B" cooking syrup to get the biggest bang for your buck. I picked up a 14oz bottle at Whole Foods for $10 or $11.

neebington - I used to be a strong proponent of trying to get fermentable sugars out of the pumpkin, but after discussing it with both pro and home brewers I've changed my mind. I know the arguments on both sides, but adding to the boil brings out the flavor without the mess or complication of adding the pumpkin to the mash.

Thanks!

I don't think the fermentation won't really increase the spice flavors. If you give it a taste before bottling and you still think it needs more, just add a pinch. That gap between "just enough" and "way too much" is not very big. Even commercial breweries have a lot of problems getting it just right.

@hungry - I don't see any problem with doing primary in plastic. I'll avoid plastic if I know it will be there for 6 weeks or more, but less than that I don't really worry about it. The krausen is smaller on a lager, but if you want to avoid overflow in primary by using a bucket then go for it.

@Lorenzo - I think Noonan's book is a classic and hands down still one of the more comprehensive books for lager homebrewers. It's an excellent reference.

@nataku - Nice eye! The label's a little hidden, but you can see a Rosso E Marrone on the right side as well!

Actually, I'll be making an American Wheat this weekend using the brew-in-a-bag method. I'll try squeezing the bag and see if it seems to extract detectable tannins or if it changes my usual efficiency. I'll report back when it's finished.

Oh, and keep an eye out for the American Wheat recipe in a few weeks. It's one of my summer favorites!

You're correct. My intent was to say that there is really no benefit from using dry yeast as there is more than enough yeast cells in a single package of liquid yeast to ferment such a low ABV brew. For the same reason, there isn't a benefit to making a yeast starter from a liquid yeast either.

Cost is a factor, but it would be a small factor in this case. I think my total bill for this recipe came in at less than $20 for 5 gallons of beer.

I would expect that any precursors to DMS (a chemical that produces cooked vegetable flavors) would be eliminated in the production of the extract, so I don't think it's something to worry about in an extract recipe.

Some people do a 90 minute boil when using a large percentage of Pilsner malt in an all grain style recipe, but cmdrico7812 has the right idea - leave you're brew kettle uncovered and make sure you have a vigorous boil.

The hops in the photograph are as fresh as they come. I buy all my hops in bulk from http://www.hopsdirect.com/store/ and I store them vacuum sealed and in the freezer until use. This particular variety is Willamette and it's from the 2010 crop.

Fresh dried leaf hop color can range anywhere from the moss green in the photograph to almost-neon bright green. It mostly depends on the variety. Avoid hops that are brown like old oak leaves. If you're unsure about the quality of your hops, the smell test works every time. Old hops have a distinct cheesy smell to them and shouldn't be used.

I used these Willamette hops in a Saison I brewed last weekend, and the aroma was a beautifully spicy and earthy. I will be dry hopping this beer with the same variety.

mr guy - joshcalvi is exactly right. It sounds to me like the fermentation was not complete when you bottled. Fermentation continued in the bottles and the bottle couldn't contain the CO2 that was produced. With higher alcohol beer, the time for complete fermentation increases substantially. I haven't talked about beer above 8% yet, but my method is to allow the beer to ferment for about 3 or 4 weeks, then transfer the beer to a secondary fermenter and let it sit for another couple weeks. This helps ensure that fermentation is really complete.

Also, just because the airlock isn't bubbling doesn't mean that the fermentation was done. The only way to be certain that fermentation is done is to take gravity readings on two different days and make sure they are exactly the same.

The exploding bottles are called "bottle bombs". I had a really bad experience with them once when I did about the same thing you did - Make a 9% beer, ferment for 2 weeks, then bottle. They're like glass hand grenades and they scared the crap out of me. I put on a helmet to protect my face and opened all the surviving bottles in the bathtub. That's a lesson you only have to learn once... Always allow time for complete fermentation and check your gravity with a hydrometer before you bottle.

I agree that you can absolutely do this beer as a full boil. If you own an 8 gallon pot, the recipe can be performed as-is starting with 6 gallons instead of 3. Then there would be no topping off at the end. Technically, there would also be a slight adjustment to the hop schedule, but it's not significant enough in this recipe to address. The point mayan makes is valid, the hop utilization is not quite the same with a concentrated batch like this, but this is a great way to start for a new brewer. This recipe will make a great porter whether you do a 6 gallon boil or a 3 gallon boil.

I have never actually had an issue with topping-off using unboiled tap water. I understand the issues with sanitation, but municipal water generally is sanitary straight out of the tap. If there is a concern that your tap water might be contaminated, then it would be best to pre-boil it.