Serious Eats - seriouseats.com

Congratulations medfood. You have just won the award for the blogosphere's most obvious shill.

Ciao,

Paulie Gee

I'm on it, bro, thanks for the tip!

I took a Village walk-thru yesterday eve(5-6:30pm) and picked up a few slices... I hadn't had pizza or pasta in over a week, so I was gastro-primed for whatever was in store. It was essentially a, "GIVE ME RED SAUCE, OR GIVE ME DEATH..." kind of moment. I was hungry.

My intentions were to go with standard slices; limiting myself to one per joint. But what man's fortitude is strong enough to deny first-cut of a hot virgin pie capped with fresh mozz? Don't strain the grey matter--it's a whole different ball game when she's looking you in the face. Being speechless, I pointed, and $3.25 later, I was out on the sidewalk in front of Joe's. After one good bite, I ventured across to that fine triangular park to bench with my newly found piece of pie'ss.

First stop: Joe's, $3.25. Uber fresh and hot, excellent hand-feel & fold('libretto') great crunch to the crust, good depth with a nice chewy texture. Cheese tasted great, nice and tender, no gummy residue. Sauce tasted ok, a bit bland(akin to canned paste) and overall, was missing something... I do prefer some fresh basil on a this genre of pie. Verdict: A solid slice; better than average.

Second stop: Pizza Box, $3.50(I think). Needed a quick reheat, but did seem freshly made. "Bleeker, we have a problem with the crust!" I would love to maintain a direct writing style here, but we need to be frank about the failure of my crust last night... (Ask your doctor about C.D...) I tried to hold the fold; I really wanted it. I even offered her rest in between attempts... Nothing but soggy limpness. I was let down. I marched slowly to the fork tray, and returned to my seat, keeping my gaze directed away from the ovens... The last three inches of slice entirely collapsed, causing a cheese + sauce avalanche of sorts. I wish I could post the pic. here... Alas, armed with my fork, I ate on.

Moving along: cheese was okay, a bit tough, leaving a slight gummy afterchew, but not too polly-o (it did need to be deliverd via utensil, so it's consistency may have been concentrated, per lack of crust.) The sauce was very good and really satisfied my crave of things red. I'd say a bit more oily that watery, and left an oily residue on the paper plate, yet I really was enjoying the balance of salt to sweet, with the constant kick of the fresh basil. Verdict: An unacceptable slice; disqualified by the crust SNAFU. The sauce scored enough yum points to bring me back for a chance at redemption.

Third stop: Bleeker Street Pizza, $2.75. Fresh, but with a reheat. Can a crust be too cruchy? Yes. I don't know what they cook the pie on, but it comes out with a fabricated texture--a fine grid pattern. When attempting to fold, it literally cracks along its fault lines. The end result is an awkward hand feel, with jagged sharp approaches to the bites. The chew is a masticatory assault--sharp, crispy, yet finishing loose..."Where the hell is my gluten?" Risoterria may have been smiling, but I was not. The finish reminded me of what happens intra-mouth after chewing down a cheap graham cracker, or Capt'n Cruch--a reduction to homogeneity. Whatever it was, it seems like they were unnaturally forcing the crunch quality, therefore compromising the ideal crusts which crunch only to reveal a softer, more breadlike center. The cheese was nice--well-located, good taste and texture, without gummy residue. Sauce was very good, and the basil taste was excellent. Verdict: Pizza is bread, not cheese and crackers--the crew needs to go re-read the chapter on leavening dough. But, for that dime, I'll be going back to check for improvements...

So, with that, each slice had it's merits. And it was clear that all the shops were serious about their pies. I'd like to have a $3.00 max per slice price, and all to receive the basil treatment. I suppose if the crust issues are a chronic problem, I could slap a Pizza Box slice over a Bleeker slice, and see what happens with the hybrid... Next week I'm walking with a friend to see what those coal ovens can do...

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