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The Nasty Bits: Beef Neck
While I am a fan of necks in general, are there still concerns about the amount of central nervous system tissue in beef necks, after the BSE/vCJD scares?
Video: 'Never Say No to Panda' Cheese Commercials
I have always maintained that the threat of physical violence by adorable animals is the only way to really get your product out there.
Dinner Tonight: Muffaletta Sandwich
A traditional muffaletta would be made on a different kind of bread, with a softer, more evenly porous texture than focaccia. It's a round loaf, maybe a bit bigger than a dinner plate, and has sesame seeds. The sandwich is cut into quarters and generally sold by the half. There are variations on the olive salad, but the most classic, and in my opinion the very best, are almost entirely green and black olives, with a few flecks of carrot for crunch and character. The olive salad also does better for having time to sit by itself and meld. I can't recall ever having seen roasted peppers in the mix, and they would add a sweetness that's uncharacteristic. An acceptable variation is the frenchuletta, a similar sandwich served on New Orleans-style french bread.
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Recent Polls
Hannekin answered "Only particularly small or crowded coffee shops." to Should Coffee Shops Ban Laptops?
Poll posted by The Serious Eats Team, August 31, 2010 at 11:15 AM
Hannekin answered "No. Pizza über alles!" to Do you stop eating pizza when it's hot outside?
Poll posted by Adam Kuban, June 28, 2010 at 1:55 PM
Hannekin answered "No f****n' way!" to Pineapple Pizza: Way or No Way?
Poll posted by Adam Kuban, May 10, 2010 at 6:30 AM
Hannekin answered "Nope" to Would You Eat the KFC Double Down Sandwich?
Poll posted by Erin Zimmer, April 12, 2010 at 7:00 PM
Recent Quizzes
Hannekin got 80% correct on Quiz: How Much Do You Know About Tofu?
Quiz posted by Sarah Kuo, October 11, 2010 at 2:00 PM
Hannekin got 50% correct on Quiz: How Much Do You Know About Soda?
Quiz posted by Sarah Kuo, September 20, 2010 at 6:30 PM
Hannekin got 70% correct on Quiz: How Much Do You Know About Tea?
Quiz posted by Joan Fang, July 12, 2010 at 7:30 PM
Hannekin got 70% correct on Quiz: How Much Do You Know About Cheese?
Quiz posted by Joan Fang, July 5, 2010 at 6:00 PM
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Recent Comments
Drinking the Bottom Shelf: Carlo Rossi Burgundy
The trick is to put your finger through the loop and rest the jug on the crook of your elbow as you drink.
The Nasty Bits: Beef Neck
While I am a fan of necks in general, are there still concerns about the amount of central nervous system tissue in beef necks, after the BSE/vCJD scares?
Video: 'Never Say No to Panda' Cheese Commercials
I have always maintained that the threat of physical violence by adorable animals is the only way to really get your product out there.
Dinner Tonight: Muffaletta Sandwich
A traditional muffaletta would be made on a different kind of bread, with a softer, more evenly porous texture than focaccia. It's a round loaf, maybe a bit bigger than a dinner plate, and has sesame seeds. The sandwich is cut into quarters and generally sold by the half. There are variations on the olive salad, but the most classic, and in my opinion the very best, are almost entirely green and black olives, with a few flecks of carrot for crunch and character. The olive salad also does better for having time to sit by itself and meld. I can't recall ever having seen roasted peppers in the mix, and they would add a sweetness that's uncharacteristic. An acceptable variation is the frenchuletta, a similar sandwich served on New Orleans-style french bread.
Do touristy places ever have good food?
In my experience of New Orleans, the greater the number of tourists, the worse the food will be, with some relief at the top end of the scale. And a big part of the problem is that the French Quarter, where the tourists congregate, is a bit of an "island." My recommendation is ask the locals but take their recommendations with a grain of salt, don't be afraid of a little grime and authenticity, and don't be afraid to walk out if you don't like what you see. Tourist pressure will always change the restaurant industry, it's just a matter of numbers. Also, by entering the city you become the personal enemy of 90% of the waiters and waitresses in New Orleans.
The Nasty Bits: Yak Testicles
Is that startling yellow color unique to yaks? Is that yak "soft roe?"
The Crisper Whisperer: What's a Cucuzza?
Interestingly, I get these from my Asian grocer as opo. They're generally shorter and fatter than the ones you've pictured, but according to the almighty google, they're the same gourd.
Slice Poll: Do You Blot the Grease from Your Pizza?
Am I alone in folding then slice, then allowing the grease to run down the channel created by the fold? Also, usually it's necessary on a pepperoni slice but not a plain slice.
Having It Your Way: Is Too Much Choice Ruining Coffee?
This coffee debate is evidence of two human impulses that I think are pretty universal: the need to dictate the tastes of others and the idea that spending a few dollars somewhere makes a multinational conglomerate your exclusive servant. First, why would you ever think that you could tell someone else what they like? Maybe they really enjoy that laundry list of requirements. They'll go to a coffeeshop where they can get just that, and that coffeeshop will serve them. The idea that "plain coffee, black, and only that with no questions or I will spend the next forty minutes discoursing on the collapse of civilization," is any less stringent a requirement than a half-caf soy whip nonfat mocha is a failure of self-critical assessment. Second, yes, you will have to wait in line at coffeeshops, and the other customers will take longer than you think they should. This is in the nature of things. Accept it, go to a different, faster coffeeshop, or make your own. The debate is worse than pointless, since it's division over irreconcilable trivialities without any objective truth.
Snapshots From Honolulu: Shave Ice from Waiola
A New Orleans-style snowball is very similar, being shaved extremely thin and having a soft, fine texture. It's also often served drizzled with sweetened condensed milk, though none of the other Hawaiian-style toppings. It's a treat to watch the extremely ancient machine at Plum Street Snowballs churn out fluffy little piles of ice-cold deliciousness.
The Nasty Bits: Testicles, Grilled and Fried
Plants are, in a sense, feminine, since they contain compounds called phytoestrogens that mimic female hormones to varying degrees in the human body. I would imagine that testicles are fairly high in testosterone; does one feel aggressive after eating Rocky Mountain oysters?
Video: Jim 'No-Knead Bread' Lahey Reviews Domino's New-Recipe Pizza
Back in the day, I would've eaten the box a Domino's pizza came in before I ate the pizza. Now, it's probably my favorite of the chain pizzas, given the doughy gumminess of Papa John's and the stark inedibility of Pizza Hut. For the giant swath of Americans who have no access to the miracle-producing ovens and pizza competence proliferating on the coasts, this is a step forward. A mild, heavily commercialized step, but a step. I've eaten at lots of local pizza joints that thought a gentle steaming was the best way to cook a pizza, and the sins of Domino's are much less apparent when the alternative is an overtopped, damp mass of clashing flavors for $20.
Jamie Oliver's Food Revolution Hits America
If you put aside all of the ideas about class and income, there's still a simple truth: the way these children are being taught to eat will shorten their lifespans and reduce their quality of life. However unpalatable you may find the messenger and the message, it's true. A fried diet free of vegetables will result in unhealthy people. You don't have eat organically farmed heirloom varieties of greens, you just have to include greens in your diet: they're available fresh and frozen at reasonable prices year round. By defending their right to determine their own culinary destiny with fast food, prepackaged convenience, and cheap snack foods, all you're defending is their right to be ignorant and sick, allowing pride to keep them so. The snack food industry and fast food giants regularly fund puppets who talk about the right of Americans to make choices about food, which is all well and good, but it masks a campaign that wants them to buy highly profitable products of questionable nutritional value. But those people will make choices that hurt not only them but their children and the society at large. Food ignorance is as much a part of the poverty trap as anything else. It's not necessary to eat arugula and organic bean sprouts every day to eat better than these people are eating now. The school, the home, and their local culture have got to change or they will continue to be hurt by it. I'm not advocating an end to processed foods, fast foods or snack food, but for God's sake, these things cannot be allowed to become your entire diet. If it were only the person making that choice, fine. But it affects ALL of us; these people will have fewer opportunities, will drive up health care costs through higher insurance rates, higher taxes and higher incidental costs. Pretending that their choice doesn't affect you will not work, nor will indignation that it does. Sometimes we have to encourage other people to make the right choice, because the wrong one hurts the whole society.
How to Cook Dried Beans
I use what I guess might be a hybrid method, which is a long cold soak or a shorter hot soak, followed by pressure-cooking. It usually gives a firm but creamy texture and intact beans. I don't use slow cookers, and I always discourage others from using slow cookers to cook beans, as it never gets hot enough to destroy a potentially toxic chemical present in most beans, but especially red kidney beans, called phytohemagglutinin. A particularly low-temperature cooking actually makes larger amounts of the toxin available. Boiling reduces it to safe levels, whereas canning or pressure-cooking virtually eliminates it.
Do You Like Eating Pie Crust By Itself?
The filling is often too sweet. Even when the filling is just right, it's best to have plenty of warm, flaky crust to set it off. Then again, I think the crust is the best part of a pizza, too...
Sous-Vide Cooking with Heston Blumenthal
Chicken cooked to 140F just isn't safe. The "quality and freshness" of your ingredients don't matter; chickens are biological organisms and they frequently contain salmonella no matter how fresh they are, how free their range or whose backyard they were raised in. Your handling of the ingredients doesn't matter if they're already contaminated. Long holds (I am loathe to call it cooking) at low temperatures in anaerobic conditions is a recipe for disaster. The USDA didn't pick the numbers to be mean or to limit our options, they picked them in an attempt to help people avoid foodbourne illness.
Video: 'Yellow Cake' Animated Short by Nick Cross
Subtle, nuanced allegory.
Seriously Asian: The Function of Cornstarch
While I cringe a little bit inside whenever people refer to it as "sealing in juices," searing and/or treating with starch is usually a technique to add flavor and a pleasant or contrasting texture. The technique works, even if the mechanism doesn't work the way one might think. Viz, searing a steak doesn't seal in one drop of juice, but you really do want your steak seared.
The Nasty Bits: Crisp Fried Pig's Tail
Blot the tails dry before reintroducing them to the oil, and dust them with cornstarch or flour before frying them the second time. It cuts down on the explosive effect.
Seriously Asian: Searching for the Perfect Wok
I've used both carbon steel and cast iron woks, and I've found that neither works well on home range. Both, however, shine like diamonds when you use them over a very, very high flame. I've never been able to use a flame that's as intense as the upside-down jet engines they have at good Chinese restaurants, but a very powerful outdoor burner yields a fast-recharging surface that resists sticking even after the addition of a starch slurry. It always gives a really wonderful, almost smoky, wok hee. It's all a matter of the right tool for the right job. But seeing as I'm usually cooking on a much more pedestrian cooktop, the anodized aluminum wok seems perfect. I'll be first in line for the Chichi Wang Superwok.
Who Likes Grape Soda?
Grape soda is awesome, in a way that is totally unrelated to grapes. The flavor always seems vaguely powdery to me, probably because I remember it from those equally awesome Lik-m-aid candies. The best, though, is when you can mix the purple drank with the lemon drank and get something that is altogether more than the sum of its parts. It's very near exactly that idee fixe of hipster nostalgia, Purplesaurus Rex.
When Is It Socially Acceptable to Share Food?
Sharing food willingly denies one the joy of cross-table fork duels and condiment bombardments.
Impromptu Taste Test: The Cult of Yakult
Never enjoyed the sweet fruitiness. I think there are plenty of folks who prefer their yogurt more clean and acidic, like Kefir.
Keggers of Yore
I am told I've been to keggers, though the memories themselves were stolen by, well, the nectar which flowed forth from the kegs...
A Tofu Throwdown: Lions Head Meatballs vs. Tofu and Orzo
I don't like the "raw" flavor of tofu, and I'd be hard-pressed to love a dish with uncooked tofu in it. And our palates, be they American or Asian, get used to lots of things that are very hard to love, while certain things are universally delicious. American palates tend to be dulled by plenty: we like lots of fatty, salty and sweet along with little else. We trade subtle flavors for the slickly rich, and strong flavors for sugary sweetness. We'd do well to be told, "You're doing it wrong," more often, just to make us think about the way we cook and eat.
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Polls
Hannekin answered "Only particularly small or crowded coffee shops." to Should Coffee Shops Ban Laptops?
Poll posted by The Serious Eats Team, August 31, 2010 at 11:15 AM
Hannekin answered "No. Pizza über alles!" to Do you stop eating pizza when it's hot outside?
Poll posted by Adam Kuban, June 28, 2010 at 1:55 PM
Hannekin answered "No f****n' way!" to Pineapple Pizza: Way or No Way?
Poll posted by Adam Kuban, May 10, 2010 at 6:30 AM
Hannekin answered "Nope" to Would You Eat the KFC Double Down Sandwich?
Poll posted by Erin Zimmer, April 12, 2010 at 7:00 PM
See more polls by Hannekin »Loading...No more polls by Hannekin
Quizzes
Hannekin got 80% correct on Quiz: How Much Do You Know About Tofu?
Quiz posted by Sarah Kuo, October 11, 2010 at 2:00 PM
Hannekin got 50% correct on Quiz: How Much Do You Know About Soda?
Quiz posted by Sarah Kuo, September 20, 2010 at 6:30 PM
Hannekin got 70% correct on Quiz: How Much Do You Know About Tea?
Quiz posted by Joan Fang, July 12, 2010 at 7:30 PM
Hannekin got 70% correct on Quiz: How Much Do You Know About Cheese?
Quiz posted by Joan Fang, July 5, 2010 at 6:00 PM
Hannekin got 50% correct on Quiz: How Much Do You Know About Sushi?
Quiz posted by Joan Fang, June 21, 2010 at 7:30 PM
Hannekin got 40% correct on Quiz: How Much Do You Know About French Fries?
Quiz posted by Joan Fang, June 7, 2010 at 7:30 PM
Hannekin got 60% correct on Quiz: How Much Do You Know About Ramen?
Quiz posted by Joan Fang, June 1, 2010 at 9:00 PM
Hannekin got 62% correct on How Much Do You Know About Regional Sandwiches?
Quiz posted by Katie Quinn, May 17, 2010 at 11:30 AM
Hannekin got 100% correct on How Much Do You Know About Beer?
Quiz posted by Katie Quinn, May 10, 2010 at 6:45 PM
Hannekin got 80% correct on How Much Do You Know About Hot Dogs?
Quiz posted by Katie Quinn, May 3, 2010 at 6:30 PM
Hannekin got 50% correct on How Much Do You Know About Food TV and Its Personalities?
Quiz posted by Katie Quinn, April 26, 2010 at 1:45 PM
Hannekin got 50% correct on How Much Do You Know About Spring Vegetables?
Quiz posted by Katie Quinn, April 5, 2010 at 6:45 PM
Hannekin got 75% correct on How Much Do You Know About Food Preservation?
Quiz posted by Katie Quinn, March 1, 2010 at 4:30 PM
Hannekin got 100% correct on How Much Do You Know About New Orleans Food Culture?
Quiz posted by Katie Quinn, February 1, 2010 at 7:00 PM

The trick is to put your finger through the loop and rest the jug on the crook of your elbow as you drink.