This fish with black bean sauce takes flavor and amps it up to tongue-blasting levels. (May become your fave recipe ever!)
Part two of a three part series by farmer Anthony Boutard of Ayers Creek Farm on what measures different states are taking to insure food safety and encourage family farms. Read the entire essay here.
In the first installment of "Farewell Frikeh," we noted that the Oregon Department of Agriculture (ODA) defines "food processing" as the "…cooking, baking, heating, drying, mixing, grinding, churning, separating, extracting, cutting, freezing, or otherwise manufacturing a food or changing the physical characteristics of a food, and the packaging, canning or otherwise enclosing such a food in a container." While this long recitation certainly includes all activities that happen in food processing factories, the definition also covers many traditional farm activities that fall well short of what we consider processing foods. Under a strict interpretation of ODA's rules, all of the activities identified above must take place within a licensed facility.
Because frikeh involves heating and drying, ODA calls it a "processed food." Like many other traditional foods, including raisins, sundried tomatoes, dried peppers and herbs, frikeh is prepared outside in the field, and not in a factory. Under ODA's scheme, if a "processed food" is not produced in a licensed facility, the agency prohibits the sale of the food. If California took such a view of food processing, we would have neither raisins, nor domestic sun dried tomatoes and peppers.
The food industry is where the problem lies, not the family farm. The reality remains that, in states with progressive views on farm-based food production, food borne illnesses have not been an issue at farmers' markets or with CSA's.
It's a time when newspapers and magazines all over the country are vaporizing like flies on a bug zapper.
So it's encouraging when a print publication actually finds an audience, as well as advertisers, and increases its output to reflect that. And that's just what's happening to MIX (which I've written for), the glossy food magazine that's put out by the same folks who bring you the Oregonian's FoodDay section (ditto), according to FoodDay editor Martha Holmberg.
Currently publishing every two months, MIX will begin publishing ten times a year. "There will be a couple of 'double' issues, in summer and at the end of year," Holmberg said.
Local Hood strawberries made into the ultimate strawberry dessert at Toast cafe in Portland, Oregon.
All wood-fired, all the time, the food here is fabulous!
Portland restaurant CAVA, which established an outpost for casual dining on a little-known stretch of SE Foster Road, has closed. Owner Amy Ruppel, in an e-mail to patrons, said it was a victim of the downturn in the economy.
"We've stayed open as long as we could," Ruppel wrote, "Digging deep into our own pockets to try to keep it all running, but to no avail...It makes me ill to think about all the work and love we put into that place, only to have it fade away and become another statistic."
David Anderson, the chef de cuisine at Portland's Vindalho, has decided to leave the restaurant he helped craft into the city's go-to spot for great Indian-inspired cuisine.
A new opportunity presented itself when he met former Nike exec Rudy Chapa and his wife, attorney Patricia Eiting, dedicated eastside Portland residents who'd just purchased the much-beloved Genoa with the intention of reopening it. Anderson, just past his 30th birthday, had ideas he'd wanted to put into practice and impressed the couple with his experience and drive.
The magic happened, Anderson tendered his notice at Vindalho and is currently on board as executive chef and general manager with an equity stake in the business. The plan is to reopen Genoa in November along with a second concept, an Italian-style enoteca/bar, in the space next door.
Fresh market asparagus with red onions and crumbled egg. How great is that?
Sumptuous combination of flavors and textures. Perfect!
Where goeth chef Kevin Gibson, there also will you find his signature deviled eggs.
Ready in 15 minutes, these simple stuffed peppers are the perfect appetizer!
Not only is it deeeelicious, it's lactose-free, vegetarian, vegan (using bread that's animal-free) and can even be gluten free (again, depending on the bread used)! Is that the perfect food or what?
Maybe it's the prize-inside-the-Cracker Jacks promise of the creamy, fatty yolk hidden inside the egg's high-protein white jacket. But they've got me all up-ons lately.
Our friends Bruce and Mary Fishback, owners of Bread & Ink Cafe, love this odd member of the onion family and bring in some every year to feature as specials.
From Nick Zukin of Kenny & Zuke's in Portland, Oregon: "DDD reuben—as in triple-decker. The middle is a standard lovely reuben with house-made pastrami, two slices of swiss, russian, and kraut. Above and below is another reuben, battered & fried."
Yup. That's him in the picture in today's NYT. Watching a ball game and drinking a beer.
According to an article in today's Times, he went to a (Chicago, of course) Bulls/Wizards game recently. And he and Michelle have even (gasp!) dined out at Washington restaurants like Equinox, Bobby Van's Steakhouse and other spots not normally associated with presidential appearances.
Whose cockamamie idea was this, anyway? Doesn't he know that a president isn't supposed to venture outside the bubble that is the White House with its sycophantic, self-referential babble? And how welcome a sign is that?
More to the point, even: What that beer he's drinking?
The James Beard Foundation Awards has recognized chef Cathy Whims of Nostrana in Portland, Oregon, as a professional who exhibits "high national standards in restaurant operations and entrepreneurship." Whims was notified of her "Best Chef NW" award at noon today by a friend who saw it on the Beard Foundation website.
Whims was a founding chef of Genoa restaurant in Portland, a progenitor of Portland's movement toward use of local, organic and sustainably grown ingredients. In an article on its closing in November of 2008, Oregonian writer David Sarasohn wrote:
"So, while some Genoa stories are about Mick Jagger coming in one Halloween, or Sandra Day O'Connor accompanied by a battalion of federal judges, more are about the farmer from Philomath [Frank Morton of Wild Garden Seed] who would mail his greens in layers to the restaurant (with a chart explaining which was which), or being the first restaurant in the country to bring in prosciutto di Parma (after the law against importing it was repealed), or about founder Michael Vidor's wife growing her own basil at a time when it couldn't be bought anywhere in Portland."
"For a lot of people," says Cathy Whims, whose 10-year stint as chef/part owner was a high point in the restaurant's history, "it was their first experience with high-quality ingredients."
After a trip to Italy's Piedmont, she started Nostrana with friends Deb and Marc Accuardi in 2005, which was named the Oregonian's Restaurant of the Year in 2006. Whims eventually took over ownership of the restaurant in 2008, continuing her commitment to the cuisine of Italy and the Piedmont.
A decade ago, Portlander Duane Sorenson founded Stumptown, which, along with other roasters who emerged in the mid-'90s, quickly became the standard-bearer for artisan coffees: well-sourced and roasted to bring out nuances that weren't necessarily in the vocabulary of earlier roasters whose focus was often on deep and dark. Stumptown's beans are brewed around the city, the West Coast and now in New York. And while Stumptown's volume is still small compared to the name-brand roasting giants, in indie-minded Portland, Stumptown might be considered "establishment."
Enter the micro-roasters, people who, like most of their predecessors, were drawn from other fields to the life of a coffee roaster for reasons that aren't necessarily rational, but can be felt by the cascade of beans spilling from a cloth bag, smelled through the waft of coffee toasting in a drum-roaster, heard in the crack of beans as they're transformed from simple fruit to the source of so much pleasure and sustenance for rain-soaked Portlanders.
Read about five of the city's hottest new roasters in this month's MIX magazine.
The organic seeds you're buying for your garden may be tainted with GMOs. Read the article here.
Great audio slideshow on today's Oregonian website about a guy in Portland, Oregon, who had an epiphany while eating a taco in Mexico. The taco was so good and the place so magical that he decided then and there to go back and open his own tacqueria with a green and socially conscious edge.
When my husband wanted to grill something for Valentine's, instead of steaks we did a fabulous Stuffed Boneless Pork Leg Roast. Simple, easily and as tasty as a boneless pork loin for half the price!
In a fascinating (if occasionally repellant) article titled "The Maggots in Your Mushrooms," E.J. Levy enumerates the "defects" that are allowed in our food by the FDA.
Like tomato juice, which "may average '10 or more fly eggs per 100 grams [the equivalent of a small juice glass] or five or more fly eggs and one or more maggots.' Tomato paste and other pizza sauces are allowed a denser infestation — 30 or more fly eggs per 100 grams or 15 or more fly eggs and one or more maggots per 100 grams."
Levy sums it up by saying, "In case you’re curious: you’re probably ingesting one to two pounds of flies, maggots and mites each year without knowing it, a quantity of insects that clearly does not cut the mustard, even as insects may well be in the mustard."
Thanks for sharing. I think.
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