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From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Turkey Brining Basics

@hmw0029

I've never tried it with turkey, but I've tried injecting a chicken with melted butter in the past. I wasn't a big fan. It doesn't help keep the meat juicy - if you take the meat beyond 150 degrees, it dries out no matter what, so what you end up with is dry meat surrounded by butter. It still has that awful chalky texture in your mouth. It also just makes the bird taste like butter, instead of like a bird. It's kind of like grinding butter into your hamburgers. It adds some flavor and some fat, but in the end, it becomes a weaker expression of a burger.

For that reason, I'm actually even personally opposed to brining turkey in general - it ends up juicier, but you have more diluted turkey flavor. But to each their own - most people who have tried brined turkey swear by it.

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Turkey Brining Basics

@meat guy

wow - that's interesting to know re: butterballs . I guess the name used to make sense!

I'm working on a recipe for a turkey burger right now, and adding hydrolyzed veg protein and yeast extract are definitely on my list of tests. It's amazine what a difference a little yeast extract can make in the meatiness of your finished dish. It works great in stews and sauces as well (you can buy it in the international aisle - Vegemite or Marmite)

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Turkey Brining Basics

@Burger365

You're right. Adding flavorings to your brine has a pretty minimal effect on the flavor of the meat. That's because the meat has a higher affinity for the sodium ions than it does for most common flavor compounds. When you put your meat in the brine, salt will selectively migrate into the meat, which basically means that there is less room for the other flavorings.

If you want to maximize marinating/brining, you should do two separate soaks. First, marinate your meat in a salt-free flavorful marinade. After that, brine it as usual. The flavor will come out much more distinctly.

Also, bear in mind that unless they are in solution, flavors won't enter the meat. So adding whole herbs to a marinade will have minimal effect unless you first bruise them, chop them, or otherwise rupture their cell structure so that they release flavor into the liquid.

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Turkey Brining Basics

@Trilby
you can do it in a large vessel in the fridge, or in a double layer of oven bags or garbage bags (set them inside a roasting pan to catch any leaks).

You can also brine your turkeys in a cooler out of the fridge. Just add enough ice packs to keep it cool through the night. Ice packs work better than ice cubes because they won't dilute the brine as they melt.

@meat guy

I think some manufacturers do inject oil into the breasts (I've never heard of hydrogenated oil or margarine though), but butterballs don't. It's just a brine:

These are the ingredients from their website:

Ingredients: Turkey, Water, Salt, Modified Food Starch, Sodium Phosphates, Natural Flavorings.

As for a cooked chuck roast, I think it's more than just the fat - it's the conversion of the collagen in its copious connective tissue into gelatin that keeps it well-lubricated in your mouth. That conversion takes temperatures of at least 160 degrees, and plenty of time to take place. I think the statement that "fat makes things juicy" is a pretty common misconception, though I haven't yet done any rigorous tests to prove it. But I've certainly eaten larded meats that are dry, and well marbled steaks that are dry, and fatty salmon that is dry. If something is overcooked, all the fat in the world won't save it - unless, like a chuck roast or a pork butt or a short rib, there is plenty of connective tissue to make gelatin and lubricate the dried-out muscle.

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From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Turkey Brining Basics

@hmw0029

I've never tried it with turkey, but I've tried injecting a chicken with melted butter in the past. I wasn't a big fan. It doesn't help keep the meat juicy - if you take the meat beyond 150 degrees, it dries out no matter what, so what you end up with is dry meat surrounded by butter. It still has that awful chalky texture in your mouth. It also just makes the bird taste like butter, instead of like a bird. It's kind of like grinding butter into your hamburgers. It adds some flavor and some fat, but in the end, it becomes a weaker expression of a burger.

For that reason, I'm actually even personally opposed to brining turkey in general - it ends up juicier, but you have more diluted turkey flavor. But to each their own - most people who have tried brined turkey swear by it.

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Turkey Brining Basics

@meat guy

wow - that's interesting to know re: butterballs . I guess the name used to make sense!

I'm working on a recipe for a turkey burger right now, and adding hydrolyzed veg protein and yeast extract are definitely on my list of tests. It's amazine what a difference a little yeast extract can make in the meatiness of your finished dish. It works great in stews and sauces as well (you can buy it in the international aisle - Vegemite or Marmite)

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Turkey Brining Basics

@Burger365

You're right. Adding flavorings to your brine has a pretty minimal effect on the flavor of the meat. That's because the meat has a higher affinity for the sodium ions than it does for most common flavor compounds. When you put your meat in the brine, salt will selectively migrate into the meat, which basically means that there is less room for the other flavorings.

If you want to maximize marinating/brining, you should do two separate soaks. First, marinate your meat in a salt-free flavorful marinade. After that, brine it as usual. The flavor will come out much more distinctly.

Also, bear in mind that unless they are in solution, flavors won't enter the meat. So adding whole herbs to a marinade will have minimal effect unless you first bruise them, chop them, or otherwise rupture their cell structure so that they release flavor into the liquid.

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Turkey Brining Basics

@Trilby
you can do it in a large vessel in the fridge, or in a double layer of oven bags or garbage bags (set them inside a roasting pan to catch any leaks).

You can also brine your turkeys in a cooler out of the fridge. Just add enough ice packs to keep it cool through the night. Ice packs work better than ice cubes because they won't dilute the brine as they melt.

@meat guy

I think some manufacturers do inject oil into the breasts (I've never heard of hydrogenated oil or margarine though), but butterballs don't. It's just a brine:

These are the ingredients from their website:

Ingredients: Turkey, Water, Salt, Modified Food Starch, Sodium Phosphates, Natural Flavorings.

As for a cooked chuck roast, I think it's more than just the fat - it's the conversion of the collagen in its copious connective tissue into gelatin that keeps it well-lubricated in your mouth. That conversion takes temperatures of at least 160 degrees, and plenty of time to take place. I think the statement that "fat makes things juicy" is a pretty common misconception, though I haven't yet done any rigorous tests to prove it. But I've certainly eaten larded meats that are dry, and well marbled steaks that are dry, and fatty salmon that is dry. If something is overcooked, all the fat in the world won't save it - unless, like a chuck roast or a pork butt or a short rib, there is plenty of connective tissue to make gelatin and lubricate the dried-out muscle.

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Turkey Brining Basics

@meat guy

yep - I should have pointed out that this information pertains only to short term (IE in the range of an hour to overnight) brining. As the test I did using a saturated salt solution shows, the effects that the salt has on the protein structure of the meat is much more important that the effects of osmosis, but you are right that if I had left that turkey breast in there for several days, it would have eventually lost enough moisture that it would affect the moisture level in the cooked product.

Thanks for the clarification re: denaturing vs. dissolving of myosin, and for the info about enhanced turkeys and sodium phosphate! No wonder butterballs are so moist. I actually find it really offputting (beyond the fact that those turkeys are raised in horrid conditions). The meat is almost spongelike because of the amount of moisture in it.

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Turkey Brining Basics

@Michele Humes

Yes - cooking a turkey whole is always a problem because of the difference in cooking between the breasts and the legs. I decided for myself a couple of years ago that the benefits of having a whole turkey arrive at the table are far outweighed by the benefits of cooking the breasts and legs separately. Taste trumps appearance in my book!

I'll be working up a recipe for turkey that'll appear in this column in 2 weeks (in time for Thanksgiving!) that'll address these very issues.

For now, I've found that to get tender meat and crisp skin, the best way is a two-stage cooking process. Once at low temperature (around 200-250, or even lower) until the turkey is cooked through, followed by a rest at room temp for at least half an hour, and then finishing it in a really hot oven (around 500) just to crisp up the skin.

From Recipes

Cook the Book: Bolognese Sauce

Interesting. I've never seen a bolognese recipe that doesn't contain some dairy element.

It also seems like a huge amount of tomatoes for a bolognese, which traditionally contain very little. This seems to me more like a recipe for a 3-day Italian-American Sunday Gravy without the sausage and braciole!

From Recipes

Cook the Book: Mashed Potatoes, Finally Revealed

@mike1213

At most restaurants, they use an extremely fine tamis for the potatoes (an expensive tool that is too pricey for me to spring for at home, although I've found a good, cheap alternative: a large splatter screen, which you can buy for a couple bucks). That's how they get the super-smooth texture.

From Recipes

Cook the Book: Mashed Potatoes, Finally Revealed

More than simple steaming, the final temperature the potatoes come to is also important. Too hot, and too many cells will burst and release starch, turning the potatoes gluey.

From Recipes

The Nasty Bits: Confit of Pork Tongue with Warm Lentil Salad

Yum. I looooooooove tongue.

I had a decent lamb's tongue salad at Babbo the other week, though it was a bit too vinegary, and I prefer my tongue warm.

One thing Chichi - do you ever peel your tongues? I find the outermost layer of the tongue skin to be a little tough in texture, even when confited and that the whole thing is much better if you peel it off (very easy to do once its cooked and half cooled). Have you tried it? I've also found that it makes the thing much more appealing to the slightly squeamish, since peeling it removes all of the papillae as well.

From A Hamburger Today

The Burger Lab: Bacon Attack!

@jpacella

Thanks!

There's a link at the top and bottom of the stories that leads to a separate page with the full recipe for both the patty and the bun.

Let me know if it works out!

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs

@pookay

p.s. All of this is starting to remind me why thermodynamics was my second least favorite class in college :)

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs

@pookay - yes, you're right. I jumped the gun in my response there. I stand corrected.

But at the risk of putting my foot in my mouth again, I'm going to ask you another question: my immediate reaction is that your statement that the rate of heating is inversely proportional to the distance is not quite accurate, because it does not take into account the heat transfer coefficient of the egg. In a vacuum, yes, the rate of heating is proportional to only the distance, but an egg has mass, and so there is a coefficient involved, and that coefficient is proportional to thickness of the egg that the heat has to pass through, so does that not turn the equation into an exponential one instead of a linear one?

And one more question: are we losing the other SEers here? :)

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs

@Pookay
Thanks for the correction, although I think the original statement is technically not inaccurate - the temperature I did say proportional, which is not to say that there are not constants involved (such as the temperature of the heat source) in the equation that takes care of the zero/infinity case.

Newton's law of cooling only states that the rate of heat transfer is proportional to the temperature difference between the body and its surroundings - it doesn't have anything to do the temperature gradient formed within a solid mass. To solve that, I think it helps to think of the egg as something like a russian doll - a series of solids. From there you can see that because of Newton's law of cooling, the outer layers heat up at a much faster rate than the inner layers and that the differences in the rate at which the various layers are heating up is proportional to the distance, which means that the differences in the actual temperatures of the various layers are proportional to the inverse square of the distance.

@Attack monkey
I was doing it lid off - but like I said in the post, you can't control for all the variables that might affect cooking time - your house might be a few degrees cooler than mine, or your stove might have a few more btu's than mine. This article is meant more as a guide so that you know what aspects to consider when boiling an egg, and so that you understand the science behind it, and will thus be able to optimize cooking in your own particular environment. If that means putting on a lid to reduce the rate of heat loss, so be it!

- Kenji

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Animal Fat Mayonnaise

@LexieLo

Oops - right you are. I guess I sometimes mix up heads and tails. Either way, the concept is the same, and the mayo is delicious!

From Serious Eats: New York

Totally Unnecessary But Awesome Gadget: The Automatic Butter Spreader

Shake Shack uses them too!

Pretty standard appliance in diners and burger joints.

It'd be great for parties. Not sure exactly why, but I'd be willing to bet that if you throw a hot butter roller into a room full of drunk people, some form of entertaining hijinks would ensue.

From Recipes

Baconnaise

@semarr

Yeah... I looked at that recipe with a fair deal of skepticism. The science behind it is all wrong. For instance, the emulsifiers in egg yolks work much better at room temperature, when in that recipe, they specifically say chilled. They also recommend dumping all the fat into the egg yolks at once.

Without having actually made the recipe and followed it, my inclination is to say that there's no way that the baconnaise forms a true emulsion in that recipe. More likely, it is whipped, chilled bacon fat enhanced with egg yolks. It gets it's thickness from the crystallization of the saturated bacon fat, not from the oil in water emulsion that a true mayonnaise has. Not that that means it can't be delicious, only that it's *not* a mayonnaise in the true culinary or scientific sense of the word.

I did do experiments with bacon fat alone, and it has some of the same problems as the beef fat - difficult to form a stable emulsion. You don't have to dilute it quite as much as the beef fat, but you still need to dilute it some for it to work well.

On a side note:
When are restaurants gonna stop trying to be fancy by using the word aioli when they really mean mayonnaise? It really annoys me. An aioli is a very specific condiment that does not necessarily even have egg yolks in it. I've seen things called "aioli" on menus that don't even contain garlic in the, ferchrissake! It's my book, it's worse than calling any small hamburger a slider. Just man up, and call your sauce what it is: flavored mayonnaise!

From Serious Eats

Sous-Vide Cooking with Heston Blumenthal

@RossS

Don't think I haven't thought about it! I'll definitey be trying it next week. My concern would be that the patty would get compressed under the pressure of the bag, but we'll see. I've had burgers cooked in a C-vap then finished on a plancha before (That's how Tony Maws does it at Craigie STreet Bistrot), which is a similar concept (C-vap is a fancy steam oven that gives you results somewhat similar to sous-vide style cooking).

From Serious Eats

Sous-Vide Cooking with Heston Blumenthal

Oops - dunno what happened to the first half of that comment. What I was saying was that the contents are under pressure: pressure is defined as the force per area applied perpendicularly to a surface. For air pressure, that force is proportional to the relative air density between two areas. In a sous-vide bag, the air density inside is much lower than the air density outside (because of the vacuum inside), and since it is in a compressible plastic pouch, this means that the outside air "presses" on the contents of the bag, and they end up compressed.

For example, put a cube of watermelon in a sous-vide bag, and when it comes out, is will have been pressed to less than half of its original volume.

From Serious Eats

Sous-Vide Cooking with Heston Blumenthal

@squeezebottle

In fact, the contents of the the bags that have been put in a vacuum sealer are

@Barry Foy
I really believe that this one is different! It's the first time that a product has been introduced to the market that is already in use by every single top restaurant in the world, and not just as a curiosity used once in a while to produce an interesting dish - it is used for pretty much every single protein in every single high-end restaurant. All those chefs can't be wrong!

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Animal Fat Mayonnaise

@sanhedrin

wow - awesome! That gives me ideas for the holiday meal this year...

@cassandra

I'd think that hellman's probably had something to do with it. A good olive oil mayonnaise is excellent. One thing though. You can't make it in a blender or a food processor. The rough action incorporates too much air in to the mix which causes the olive oil to turn bitter and oxidize (try making to evoo mayos side-by-side, one by hand, the other in the food processor, and you'll see). The best way to make an evoo mayo is to make a regular mayo to begin with in the food processor, using a little bit of regular vegetable oil, say 1/2 a cup. Then transfer it to a regular bowl, and add the olive oil with a whisk. It'll prevent the oxidation problem. Or you can make the whole thing with a whisk.

If you're extra lazy, you can also just buy regular prepared mayo, then whisk in olive oil slowly. A regular jarred mayo can hold about it's own volume in extra oil without breaking!

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Animal Fat Mayonnaise

@szmansour

Thanks - that one is on my "must read" list. I've scanned it, but it deserves a more in depth look. I love that cover photo on it. And now that I know there's a baconnaise recipe inside, I gotta read it!

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Animal Fat Mayonnaise

@PaigeBW

Thanks - I've actually never seen that (seen the bacon salt, but not the may).

BUT!

I just took a look at their ingredients list, and either they've got an extremely well-stocked pantry, or their little anecdote about two dudes waking up every morning to experiment with making bacon-flavored mayo until they got it just right is a bold-faced lie. Looks like they've got every ingredient in there except... bacon!

soybean oil, water, egg yolk, gluconic acid, yeast extract, stabilizer (microcrystalline cellulose, modified food starch, xanthan gum, guar gum, gum arabic), cultured extrose, salt,, sugar, dehydrated garlic, paprika, dehydrated onion, spice, natural smoke flavor, natural flavors, tocopherols (vitamin E ), calcium disodium edta, autolyzed yeast extract.

I'll stick with the real deal. Thanks!

From Slice

Roberta's the 'Best Naples-Style Pizza'? Really, Village Voice?

With you on this Adam. Went there a few months ago and was not impressed with the pizza either. Not bad, and certainly a nice atmosphere in that back garden, but I can think of a dozen better places off the top of my head.

From Recipes

Serious Chocolate: Balloon Bowls (Not a Hoax)

@jo wang

I've tried them with air in the past. It works, but it's harder to get the balloon out without breaking the chocolate, since you have to pop them to remove them. With water, they lost volume at a much slower rate, so more gentle on the chocolate.

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Turkey Brining Basics

I think a reference to On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen by Harold McGee would have been nice... I am a follower of your writing and articles but some of this is almost verbatim to what is in the book.

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Turkey Brining Basics

@J. Kenji Lopez-Alt ......They're probably a few different Butterball Turkey products out there.For example; natural butterballs versus "self basting" butterballs.I've cut quite a few butterball turkeys in half on a band saw at work,and they certainly do have either a margarine solution or what I think looks like butter flavor crisco all in the middle of the turkey.Kinda looks gross.

From Recipes

The Fake Shack (or the Shack Burger at Home)

After drooling over the picture, I made the Fake Shack today and had no problem polishing off two of them. By far, the BEST burger I have ever made in my own kitchen.

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Turkey Brining Basics

Am also curious about the plastic garbage bag for brining. really? I didn't know it was ever okay to use garbage bags for food, and some actually have a petroleum smell. I know various non-food containers get used in large kitchens (trash cans, for example). I'd love it it you'd explore this topic more.

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Turkey Brining Basics

I'm wondering if you know how much actual salt the brining technique adds to the bird; I've got relatives who never salt their food and I'm curious if I can argue that not that much salt ends up in the bird.

If herbs etc don't end up in the meat via the brine, how about sugar?

I'm trying to work on a really satisfying vegetarian burger - are you saying that marmite might help there too?

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Turkey Brining Basics

P.S. Another great job Kenji - someone needs to donate some lab equipment (moisture analyzers, pH meters, etc) to your culinary-educational cause!

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Turkey Brining Basics

I always brine my birds - and start them upside down in a very hot oven. The result is spectacularly juicy birds that have prompted guests to remark, "This doesn't even need gravy!"

(who needs gravy?? I always thought it more of a passionate desire)

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Turkey Brining Basics

@butterball
so, does that mean one could inject olive oil, butter, or better yet, bacon grease, into turkey breasts to make a roasted turkey with juicy white meat? how would that work??

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Turkey Brining Basics

@oscarb The LA Times did a "Great Turkey Smackdown" a few years back and the dry "brining" technique emereged as the winner.
http://www.latimes.com/theguide/holiday-guide/food/la-fo-turkeycontest,0,3586629.story

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Turkey Brining Basics

There is a "dry" brining technique I've seen applied to chicken. I don't know if anyone has done it for turkey - you separate the skin and put kosher salt directly on the chicken flesh and let it sit overnight in the fridge. Seems like it would work for turkey.

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Turkey Brining Basics

Perhaps they have changed since I worked for them. Nothing was better than their buttery greasiness. I worked for Their parent company in R&D in the 70's and 80's and we had " Fang" our two needle injector designed to baste the whole birds with margarine. I forget that Butterball is now a company and not just a single product anymore, i think they have many product levels. Almost every major turkey processor uses a basting blend that is injected into the breast. usually it is a salt phosphate brine. It may be flavored with spice extractives, onion flavorings, broth, or a little hydrolyzed vegetable protein or autolyzed yeast extract to enhance the broth flavor.

There are no dirty secrets in meat processing. We are required to label EVERYTHING we put into a meat product. The real problem is consumers don't understand the labels and why the ingredients are there. To be USDA inspected means the USDA has to approve our processing plan and the labeling and food safety plans before we can produce a product. We have inspectors in plants verifying what we do after the USDA approves the product. That is one of the reasons you see meat recalls, required testing and record verification finds problems and hopefully recalls occur before anyone gets hurt.

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Turkey Brining Basics

Awesome post. The nerd in me loves learning about the science behind what makes food taste "good."

Can you comment on using liquids besides water and other additions such as herbs to the brine. I'm not a brine expert, but from my own cooking I really haven't noticed much difference between a simple brine and one that includes a bunch of additions.

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Turkey Brining Basics

gah, I meant to type "If" not It. being a foreigner doesn't help making grammatical errors but I can't even type...

I like it when Meat guy reveals meat industry's dirty secrets.

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Turkey Brining Basics

Actually Butterballs are juicy and with that texture is not due to brine. Butterball uses an injection system to place margarine into the breast of the raw bird, so it is basically like making a larded roast. Fatty, buttery tasting. Fat is a greater contributor to lasting juiciness than water. Think of how tender and juicy a slow cooked fatty chuck roast is, the moisture is cooked out but the fat makes it juicy. Melt some butter and inject that into the breast if you really want juiciness. Most other processors use a salt brine containing flavorings and phosphates to enhance moisture retention. Phosphates will actually make the product moister at the far safer fully cooked range of 160F internal, though the meat may stay pink.

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Turkey Brining Basics

So how do you do it exactly? In some very large vessel in your fridge? You wouldn't leave the turkey sitting out at room temperature all night, right?

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Turkey Brining Basics

Brilliant! This will be my first year hosting Thanksgiving, and I've been wondering about brining. Thank you!

Coincidentally, I was just talking about gluten formation the other day...

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Turkey Brining Basics

I am a huge fan of brining. Especially poultry.
We've also experimented with how the bird is positioned while cooking and have found great differences on both the grill and the oven.
I now roast the turkey on a V-shaped roasting rack, breast side down.
This allows the breasts to retain moisture much better than the traditional breast up position.
I don't care if my bird looks pretty. It get's carved in the kitchen before serving anyway. Just want a moist, tasty final product and both brining and roasting breast down help.

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Turkey Brining Basics

Thanks, Kenji! Norman Rockwell is rolling in his grave a little, but hey :)

I have only ever made one Thanksgiving turkey (am a recent arrival to US) and I basically pretended I was cooking a very large version of Thomas Keller's "poulet roti a ma facon." So I salted my unbrined, unstuffed bird like crazy--with coarse salt--and put it in a roaring hot (450) oven for 2 hours. Didn't touch it or baste it during that time. Fast and moist, but, like I say, I don't have a lot to compare it to.

Which is all to say that if you ever feel like doing a exhaustive, and surely exhausting, comparison of methods, I would be very eager to see how that method stands up. I won't hold it against you if you don't, though.

From Serious Eats: New York

FergusStock at The Breslin

No thanks for the eyeball, but I'd love to try the head. It's all pork skin and fat what's not to love?! Lamb neck looks amazing too.

From Recipes

Cook the Book: Bolognese Sauce

I bet this would make a hell of a lasagna.

From Recipes

Cook the Book: Bolognese Sauce

My bolognese takes most of one afternoon, but it is worth it. 3 days? Gimme a break.

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Animal Fat Mayonnaise

You know they already sell Baconaise in the stores but it isn't made with real Bacon. It tastes really good though. I am going to make your version as I have some rendered bacon fat in my refrigerator. Never thought of making it myself. I can just imagine what that lamb mayo tastes like! Yikes. Lamb is such a highly flavored fat as it is.

From Recipes

Cook the Book: Bolognese Sauce

Pork roast in milk, Marcella's recipe.

From Recipes

Cook the Book: Bolognese Sauce

I've got to agree with Kenji -- although this recipe sounds good, it does sound more like a version of Italian-American gravy than Bolognese sauce. From the introduction to the recipe in Italian Classics, by the editors of Cook's Illustrated (Boston Common Press, 2002): "Unlike meat sauces in which tomatoes dominate... Bolognese sauce is about the meat, with the tomatoes in a supporting role. Bolognese also differs from many tomato-based meat sauces in that it contains dairy -- butter, milk, and/or cream. The dairy gives the meat an especially sweet, appealing flavor."

I make Bolognese sauce often. My everyday version is based on Marcella Hazan's in the revised edition of Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking, and my fancy recipe is from The Complete Book of Pasta by Jack Denton Scott (Galahad Books, 1968). Hazan and Clark both use nutmeg as a key flavor (in small amounts), and they do not brown the meat, either. They also use white wine, not red. And there is NO garlic. Clark adds some mushrooms and chopped chicken liver. Either of these recipes takes about 3 or 4 hours from start to finish. When it's done to my liking, the sauce is salmon-colored. If it's red, I've used too much tomato or too little cream.

Interestingly, the recipe in The Sliver Spoon (touted on its cover as "the bible of authentic Italian cooking") uses butter but no milk or cream. In The Food of Italy, Waverly Root describes Bolognese ragu as "an unctuous blend of onions, carrots, finely chopped pork and veal, butter, and tomato." He adds that ragu is often richer than his description of the basic recipe, and I suspect the richness comes from liberal use of milk and/or cream. I usually use both -- adding milk toward the beginning, after I've taken the redness out of the meat but without browning it, and a bit of cream just before serving.

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The Fake Shack (or the Shack Burger at Home)

From A Hamburger Today

The Burger Lab: The Fake Shack

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The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs

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Perfect Boiled Eggs

From Talk

Fall pesca-vegetarian main courses that reheat well?

From A Hamburger Today

The Burger Lab: Mastering the Art of Burger Blending with Eight Cuts of Beef

From Recipes

The Blue Label Burger Blend

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30-minute weeknight farmer's market supper: pasta e fagioli

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Di Fara's Pizza - Know before you go!

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GoodEating: Grilled Bread Salad! Easy Summer Grilling Recipe

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Grilled naan, grilled vegetables, and homemade sausage sandwich

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Just-slaughtered chicken from Pete & Jen's Backyard Birds

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Rabbit terrine and Foie open faced sandwich at GoodEater

Recent Favorites

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Turkey Brining Basics

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Dr. Frankenstein's Lab

From A Hamburger Today

The Burger Lab: Bacon Attack!

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Animal Fat Mayonnaise

From Serious Eats

Video: André Soltner Makes an Omelet

From Recipes

The Fake Shack (or the Shack Burger at Home)

From A Hamburger Today

The Burger Lab: The Fake Shack

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs

From Photograzing

Cheeseburger with wild chickweed

From Photograzing

COM's Burger

From Photograzing

Pauli Gee's Arugula Pizza

From Photograzing

Brussels Sprouts with Bacon

From Photograzing

Chicken Liver Mousse with Stellaria

From Photograzing

Spring Asparagus with tsuyu and katsuobushi

From Photograzing

Corn in Beijing

From Photograzing

300 lb. Roasted Tamworth Hog

From Photograzing

Roated Pumpkin with Tare, Ginkgo nuts, and Cranberry

From Photograzing

Romanesco

From Photograzing

Deep Fried Apple Pie

From Photograzing

Eggie VonBurgwickle

From Photograzing

Mapo Dofu

From Photograzing

Smoked and Fresh Haddock

From Photograzing

Homemade Roasted Chile Oil: the key to sichuan food

From Photograzing

Ramp Dumplings

From Photograzing

Turkey leg sausages with just-laid eggs

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About J. Kenji Lopez-Alt

Website: http://www.goodeater.org

Location: goodeaterkenji

About: I love dead animals, live vegetables, and hamburgers.

Favorite foods: The pig

Last bite on earth: Anything but my tongue.