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J. Kenji López-Alt

J. Kenji López-Alt

Chief Creative Officer

I'm the the Chief Creative Officer of Serious Eats where I like to explore the science of home cooking in my weekly column The Food Lab. My responsibilities include managing the recipe development, tasting, testing, and Video production departments, as well as new creative projects and collaborations. If it's about home cooking on Serious Eats, that's my department. Feel free to contact me any time with questions, comments, or concerns at kenji@seriouseats.com.

I did the recipes for the Serious Eats book, and I'm also the author of The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science, to be released by W. W. Norton in two volumes in 2013.

I live in Harlem with my wife, and my two dogs, Jamón (A.K.A. Hambone, Serious Eats' Chief Financial Officer and Official Mascot), and Yuba (Hambone Understudy and Supreme Overlord-in-training).

  • Website
  • Location: Harlem, NY
  • Favorite foods: Asparagus. Ramps. Freshly made tofu. A great burger. Well-cured pork in small amounts.
  • Last bite on earth: Mapo dofu. Ramps.

33 Hamburger Recipes For Memorial Day

I don't know who it is that designated May as National Burger Month, but I'd like to give them a big, sloppy, greasy, onion-scented, cheese-covered kiss on the mouth. What better excuse to celebrate our national sandwich (national food?) and look back at the dozens of well-tested burger recipes we have in our archives? Here are 33 recipes that run the gamut from simple to complex, with representation from around the country, breaking regional borders, and indeed inter-species relations. More

NASA To Fund 3D Space Food Printer; First On The Menu: Pizza

When I was in school for architecture back in the late 90's, 3D printers were state of the art, expensive as all get-out, and really, really finicky to work with. We're not quite at consumer-level pricing yet, but we're already close enough that legislation to stop individuals from 3D-printing firearms. Here's a better idea: don't print guns, print pizza. That's exactly what Systems & Materials Research Corporation recently received a $125,000 NASA grant to do. Using a series of powders and oils with various nutritive properties, the printer will print out the pizza in stages, reports this story from... More

The Food Lab: How To Preserve Fresh Spring and Summer Produce

I go a bit nuts every spring and summer when fresh produce is at its best. I end up buying things willy nilly, without much thought as to how I'm going to prepare, much less eat, all of it myself. After several valiant dinner parties and late night asparagus binges, I still find myself with far too much produce to even consider finishing everything before it starts to lose quality. More

So This Exists: Ravioli Pizza at Rosa's in Huntington, Long Island

We'd already made up our minds to order a chicken roll (that'd be thin-cut strips of fried chicken rolled up in pizza dough, baked, and served with sauce for dipping). But then we heard one of the girls in front of us—the skinniest one, no less—order a "ravioli pizza please."
Uh... what? Surely she means "ravioli, pizza, please," right?.
Nope. She meant ravioli pizza. As in ricotta ravioli baked on top of pizza. As in cheese-stuffed carbs, placed on top of carbs, covered in more cheese, topped with some extra cheese for good measure. Oh, and then baked. More

Serious Entertaining: A New England Seafood Dinner

I was born in Boston and was raised New York as a kid before going back to live in Boston for another 10 years during and after college. Whenever convenient, I like to consider myself a New Englander. That time is usually in the summer, when the rocky beaches are at their drizzliest and the coastal clam shacks fire up the boilers and fryers.

I still make it a point to make at least one or two New England road trips every summer so that I can get my seafood fix. But even when I can't get up to Yankee-land, I'll do my best to get my fix right at home. You can do it too with these recipes for clam chowder, lobster rolls, blueberry pie, and more.

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The Pizza Lab Presto: Vodka Pizza

Our office is at the epicenter of the vodka pizza universe, what with both Pomodoro and Rubirosa a couple blocks away. The former is not worth a damn (despite some rave Yelp! reviews)—overly greasy, unspectacular crust, and candy-sweet sauce—while the latter is spectacular. Crisp and charred with a pleasant chew like all great pizza, it's got a creamy vodka sauce that is just rich enough that you know you're not eating regular pizza, but not so rich that you feel like your stomach may fall out or involuntarily empty itself in protest by the time you're done. It's a great alternative when you've been stuck in a pizza rut, and a recipe that's good to have in your own home arsenal. More

Ask The Food Lab: Is It OK To Probe My Meat?

"I've heard that probing meats to test temperatures can be bad because you creates holes that juice leaks out of. Is this true? I've always used the leave in thermometers that stay in and I don't remove it until my meat has rested. Is this an unnecessary step? What if you have to test multiple times, will that cause a difference?" More

Taste Test: Potato Chips

This week we gathered around the kitchen table to taste our way through a half dozen of the most widely available standard potato chip brands in order to determine who makes the crispiest, crunchiest, saltiest snack in town. More

14 Ramp Recipes To Celebrate The Season

There are some folks out there who don't like the culture of ramps. I get it. They're seasonal. They're expensive. They're only available on the East Coast to those people who are lucky enough to have them growing in their back yard, or are willing to get up early to beat the crowds at the farmer's market. These are all valid reasons for disliking the culture and mythos built up around something that in the end, is really just another onion. I myself am not a fan of this mythos. At the same time I admit to the hypocrisy of being one of its biggest contributors. Here are just 14 of the ways in which you may also find yourself joining the ranks of ramp lovers. More

The Burger Lab: A 60-Day Dry-Aged Home-Ground Prime Rib Burger (That You Will Probably Never Make At Home)

I'm not even going to pretend that anyone is going to actually make this recipe start to finish from scratch, or even from not-scratch. It's just not practical unless you own a restaurant or are planning on aging 80 pounds of beef yourself and saving the trim to make a half dozen or so burgers. So you can consider this slideshow to pretty much be straight-up food porn. More

Ramp Week: Ramp Gravy

Cream gravy, made with a blond roux, onions, cream, and plenty of black pepper is a natural partner for buttery mashed potatoes, chicken-fried steak, or yes, biscuits. After all, what goes better with fatty starch than a bit of starchy fat? More

Ramp Week: Grilled Ramps

Sometimes the simplest methods are the best. Strike that. Usually the simplest methods are the best. We continue our rampage with my favorite cooking method: simple grilling. Fresh spring ramps, tossed in a bit of olive oil, seasoned with salt and pepper, and cooked over a roaring hot fire. It's the ideal way to enhance the natural flavor of this awesome wild spring vegetable. More

Kajitsu Slips with New Chef, New Location; Still Best Vegan Meal in New York

A little over a year ago I wrote about the meal I had at Kajitsu. Based on the principles of shojin-ryori—Japanese Buddhist monk cuisine—it started out as an attempt to find a halfway decent vegan restaurant in New York. It turned out to be not just decent, but indeed the best, most memorable meal I had all of last year. It was the kind of restaurant that you could easily bring a meat-eating friend to and not worry that they will be missing anything, so complex, interesting, and vibrant are the courses.

Since then, the restaurant has undergone a few major overhauls. There's a new location and a new chef, and if Kajitsu 2.0 doesn't quite meet the standards of its predecessor, it's far from a disappointment. More

Ramp Week: How To Make The Rampiest Risotto

The great thing about ramps is that unlike, say, garlic, they can give you all that awesome sweet onion-y flavor without leaving your breath smelling like garlic. I mean, they do leave your breath smelling like ramps, but that's a much finer, rarer thing to smell like. People will literally want you to breathe into their face after eating a bowl full of this extra-ramp-y ramp risotto. More

NYC: Truly Terrible Burgers Barely Saved By Excellent Fries at Hudson Common

I'm not really the type of person who deals in take-downs or overly negative posts. But once in a while I feel so duped, so cheated, so entirely frustrated that I just spent $13 on the worst burger I've had since my middle school cafeteria days that I feel a bit of warning is due to our readers, in the hopes that the same fate will not befall them. More

Taste Test: Kinoko No Yama vs. Choco Boy, Mushroom-Shaped Chocolate Snacks

KINOKO.

Choco-boy DOES taste like crayon, despite the fact that he looks a lot like I did as a kid.

The Food Lab: How To Make Tacos Al Pastor At Home

@todlessness

Yep, coincidence. They usually operate about 8 months in advance (that is, they tested this recipe last summer/fall). For this particular recipe, I was on nearly the same timeframe, though I've been working on iterations of it for a couple of years now.

For the record, their recipe looks like something that's... not al pastor. (nor particularly good). They have a tendency of majorly f'ing up recipes that aren't in the American (and really Yankee American) canon.

Ask The Food Lab: Is It OK To Probe My Meat?

@Raymond or Fish

Two reasons: First, a sausage is not a steak or a solid piece of meat. Any moisture that is lost will collect within the skin, as opposed to a steak where the moisture lost just evaporates into the air. There *is* moisture loss in a cooked piece of meat (around 15% or so if you are cooking to medium rare), and that moisture loss generally just evaporates into the atmosphere, or if you are roasting, collects in the pan. In a sausage, it stays as a liquid or steam layer outside of the meat and within the skin.

That said, your sausages also look like they are overcooked. I can see liquid inside the skin bubbling, which means that the meat has been cooked probably well beyond 180°F or so. A sausage should be cooked like any other piece of meat—145 to 160°F at the very most. Any more than that and yes, you'll lose excess moisture.

Fortunately for a sausage, it retains more moisture in general than a piece of meat, so even overcooking it slightly will still result in a juicy end result. But you're best off not overcooking them.

I also don't know where you are getting your sausage from, so I can't guarantee that it's well made. If a sausage is not ground properly (fat emulsified, kept properly chilled), or if it is not cured properly (not enough salt or not enough time between salting the meat and forming the sausages), then it will not retain moisture properly either.

Breville Crispy Crust Pizza Maker

Haven't tried that one, but we tested another countertop model that didn't do well. I'd like to test this one...

http://slice.seriouseats.com/archives/2010/09/how-well-does-the-deni-pizza-bella-countertop-electric-pizza-oven-work.html

Roasts - rest time impact on carryover?

A regular roast won't carryover for more than 10 to 15 degrees and at most 20 minutes or so. After that, it starts to cool, which is a good thing. I aim to serve my roasts at 5 degrees lower than the final maximum temperature during carryover. If you tent with foil, you should be able to rest 60 minutes no problem.

Vodka Pizza

@fredipus

Ah, I might have tossed some Romano on that particular one. Not essential, but a nice touch!

Ask The Food Lab: Is It OK To Probe My Meat?

@Aaron R

A perfectly formed and cooked sausage shouldn't spurt juice. At least not much. But if it's at all overcooked or made improperly, it will. For sausages I try and temp just one to minimize juice loss.

The Pizza Lab Presto: Vodka Pizza

@kengk

Any brand will do. Even the cheapest. I you don't want to keep it around the house, get a couple of nips!

Italian Easy: How To Make A Stromboli

@deborah

I've had some good Stromboli in Naples and in Sicily and yes, they did not contain ricotta. The were actually quite small and very lightly stuffed. Also pretty darn delicious.

I'd disagree about ALL pizz in Italy being great. I must say I've had some pretty poor ones at restaurants in some of the more touristy parts of Rome, but of course the average level of pizza there is excellent.

Italian Easy: How To Make A Stromboli

Huh. Well wikipedia says that there are fried calzones too, particularly from puglia. Interesting.

Italian Easy: How To Make A Stromboli

@Gardenstater

That's strange, I've never heard of those definitions. Every calzone I've seen (both in the states and in Italy) have been baked as half moons. Where are you seeing deep-fried versions? In New Jersey?

Bacon and Ramp Dumplings

Ack, my bad. 1 cup boiling water!

The Pizza Lab: Baking Steel vs. Lodge Cast Iron Pizza

@dignan

Try cold fermenting your dough, which will improve its browning characteristics. Or use a different dough, like my New York-style pizza dough.

Italian Easy: How To Make A Stromboli

@monopod

This one is actually pretty darn close to a muffuletta what with the provolone, olives, and meats.

Taste Test: Potato Chips

@Mike Farrell

Have you done your own tests double blind? This was a landslide. Every taster picked them as their favorite...

Taste Test: Potato Chips

@sacxcolossusjr

They are completely pointless and also don't work as advertised (they don't seal properly 75% of the time). I wrote a bit about them here. Basically they are trying to solve a problem that doesn't exist and don't even do it well at that.

Taste Test: Potato Chips

@elangomatt

Check the link in the first paragraph for our kettle cooked taste test results!

Taste Test: Potato Chips

@scalfin

We love cape cod, but don't consider them to be "regular" potato chips, as they are much thicker than a normal chip.

Taste Test: Potato Chips

@knucklesandwich

Our criteria for chip selection is based on brands that are available on both coasts and in the middle. Basically, if you can't find the chips in NYC, Chicago, and LA, then they won't be included.

The Burger Lab: A 60-Day Dry-Aged Home-Ground Prime Rib Burger (That You Will Probably Never Make At Home)

@Jashh

It really depends how you butcher it, but I'd guess you'd get about 8 ounces of usable scrap out of a 16 pound roast, and most of that is fat (which is good - that's where the flavor is). You can definitely cryovack and freeze to collect it. that's what I did!

A Fond Farewell To National Managing Editor Erin Zimmer

Wooooooooooooo Erin! You were the first Serious Eater I met in person (remember that dinner we invited you to in Brooklyn with the beets and stuff?), and have always been the one I first turn to (not to mention the most understanding) when I have to say, "uhh... my story's not gonna be done in time again. sorry." Your easy going nature, stellar work ethic, knack for knowing what will work, and inimitable sense of humor will be sorely missed at Serious Eats, but I'm sure we'll be seeing more of it wherever your path takes you. See you around, I'm sure!

Ask the Critic: Where to Eat in Downtown Brooklyn, Best NYC Pizza

I find john's to be pretty poor, actually. Not the John's I remember from my youth. I'd much rather have a slice from bleecker street or Joe's than John's, which has long lines and cheap fresh mozz that turns to rubber nearly instantly...

NYC: Truly Terrible Burgers Barely Saved By Excellent Fries at Hudson Common

@nopomo

Nope, had this very fightwithnan editor a few years ago and did a lot of research. They mostly caramelize. There's a tiny bit of Millard browning going on, but not much.

Got Extra Popeye's Biscuits? Save'em For Breakfast Sandwiches

@beersnob

If your biscuits are dryer than English muffins, you're doing it wrong!

Then again, I expect no less from a hard egg lover ;)

Got Extra Popeye's Biscuits? Save'em For Breakfast Sandwiches

@johnsm6

Fair enough, but did to come here just to poop on other people's opinions, or are you gonna offer one of your own? Who do *you* think makes the best biscuits?

The Serious Eats Guide To Pizza In Naples

A few months ago, my wife and I spent all of 24 hours in Naples on our way home from Sicily. It was probably the second-most pizza-packed 24 hours of my life (the first being when I took my Colombian brother-in-law on a whirlwind pizza tour of New York). We hit over a half dozen pizzerias over lunch alone, and a few more for dinner. Here now, I present to you the Serious Eats guide to Eating Pizza in Naples. More

Video: Serious Eats Cooks Peking Duck At Buddakan

Ever made a traditional Peking duck? Turns out it's a pretty involved process, requiring not only multiple steps but multiple days, cooking apparatuses, and spices. The end result: an incredibly crispy, juicy bird that's seriously delicious. Come along with Serious Eats's own Carey Jones as she learns how to make Peking Duck. Chef Brian Ray of Buddakan gives us the grand tour. More

60+ Holiday Snacks in 20 Minutes Or Less

Uh oh. The buzzer rings. Friends are coming over to spread holiday cheer and you panic. Serve frozen dumplings...again?! You can do better than that. Print out this list of easy-to-assemble, stress-free, mostly-sub-20-minutes-to-prepare munchies and paste it to the fridge. Here are 60+ dips, hors d'oeuvres, small bites, toasty snacks, sweet nibbles, appetizers, and more festive munchies to prepare in a snap. More

30 Cookie Recipes from the 2011 Serious Eats Cookie Swap

The Serious Eats Cookie Swap has become an annual tradition. We break out the Duane Reade tinsel and twinkle lights, and are forced to do a major office detox to make room for cookies. Many, many cookies. (OK, maybe a dozen doughnuts snuck in this year too). It was our third year swapping, and as per tradition, the tables were covered with butter-laden treats. Our NYC-based contributors really pulled out their ninja baking skills. Get all the recipes here. More

Serious Eats' Bacon Banh Mi

Our recipe for Bacon Banh Mi brings our favorite Vietnamese sandwich home, swapping out the usual array of cold cuts and charcuterie for bacon but staying true to the other elements that make this sandwich so balanced and irresistible. More

My All-Pie Thanksgiving Fantasy

When you think about Thanksgiving and you think about various elements of the Thanksgiving meal, it seems like you're just waiting through the big meal to get to the pie. I really believe this, which is why I always fantasized about an all-pie Thanksgiving. (Anyone with me on this?) At an editorial meeting about a month ago, we were at the office talking about Thanksgiving coverage and I shared this fantasy with the team. Knowing how much I adore and obsess over pie, the Serious Eats editors weren't too shocked, so we did the only thing we know how to do: make it happen. More

BraveTart: Make Your Own 3 Musketeers

Urban legend has it that some industrial candy snafu botched the names of 3 Musketeers and Milky Way. The tale has a certain logic. 3 Musketeers doesn't have three ingredients but Milky Way does. And the very name Milky Way recalls the smooth, uninterrupted creaminess found in 3 Musketeers. Those kinds of wonky urban legends ran amok in the eighties, but we have the internet now, so let's clear this stuff up. It's not a tasty tabloid tale of "Switched at Birth!" but rather "Murder, She Wrote." More

BraveTart: Make Your Own (Better) Soft Batch Cookies

When you first joined me in my quest to unlock the secrets of culinary time travel, I told you it would take equal parts science and magic to make the foods that could power the flux capacitor of the mind. I said, "leave the DeLorean in the garage, preheat your oven to one point twenty one gigawatts, and rev that Kitchen Aid to eighty eight mph. We're going back to the Eighties." And we did. But while there, what if some careless action altered our timeline? Could we, like Marty McFly, inadvertently create an alternate universe? One where the Keebler Soft Batch Cookie tastes freaking delicious? Friends, this isn't speculation. I have done such a thing. More

Sauced: Memphis-Style Barbecue Sauce

This "Memphis-style" is my favorite to make at home—it takes the aspects of sweet tomato-based sauces I grew up on, but by dialing back the sugar and amping up the vinegar, creates a sauce where seasonings and spice are more defined and achieves a pleasing balance between the main defining aspects of a barbecue sauce. More

Boston: Fried Ipswich Clams at B&G Oysters

These are the only fancy-restaurant fried clams I think are really worth the cash ($14 half/$26 full). That they start with Ipswich bellies makes all the difference; these juicy, sweet, whole-belly behemoths are harvested from the mud flats off Ipswich, where experts claim that the particularly nutrient-rich soil gives the bivalves their superior, almost nutty flavor. More

Boston: Tamarind Bay's Lalla Musa Dal

As food aesthetics go, the murky, rust-brown, pebbly lalla musa dal at Tamarind Bay Coastal Kitchen can't compare to the restaurant's other specialties like the fennel cream-sauced cauliflower dumplings or the spiced lobster tail. But famed Indian chefs like Julie Sahni don't consider this dish "the most exquisite of all dal preparations" for nothing, and speaking in terms of decadence, it outclasses the rest by a long shot. More

Guide to Grilling: Planking

For all that I've grilled (150-plus recipes and counting), there's always plenty of uncharted territory. One of those areas: planking. There aren't usually many planking recipes in cookbooks, save the ubiquitous planked salmon. Put simply, planking is cooking food directly on a piece of hardwood. When cooking this way, the surface of the food touching the wood picks up some of the plank's natural flavors. More

How to Make Bagels at Home

I don't use the word magical lightly, but there really is something wondrous about making bagels at home. Maybe it's the shape. I think most everyone understands a loaf of bread, but the round shape with a hole ... well, it seems like a whole lot more work than simply plopping some dough in a loaf pan. But it's not. Really. Try making just one batch of these, and I'm sure you'll have the process down pat. Put on your sorcerer's robe and follow along! More

The Ultimate In-N-Out Secret Menu (and Super Secret Menu!) Survival Guide

Anybody who's been halfway around the block is aware of In-N-Out's secret menu, which allows you a few custom options other than the regular hamburger, cheeseburger, fries, shakes, and Double-Double that appear on their printed menus. But the options don't stop there. Here's a rundown of everything you can get at In-N-Out, secret menu and beyond. More