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I haven't been to Morandi. I assume that Bruni's review is accurate, because most of his reviews are accurate, and the critical consensus seems to agree with the review.
OTOH, Levine's argument that "Bruni adores women" is utter nonsense. There are plenty of men who adore women out there, and some of them have subtle sexist biases against women. If that's the best that Levine can do for his friend, I am going to assume that there is something to the criticism.
Its pretty obvious to me that Gabrielle Hamilton is deserving of at least two stars at Prune. If Bruni has time to rereview a Danny Meyer restaurant every six months, you would think he might take a moment to upgrade Prune. Moreover, everyone else in the world other than Bruni seems to think that April Bloomfield of Spotted Pig deserves two or more stars.
In short, (1) the review of Morandi may be fair, (2) Bruni seems to be developing a pattern of giving short shrift to women chefs, and (3) Levine doth protest too much.
Nice blog, by the way.