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Dear Slice: 'Heading to NYC, and Pepe's in New Haven'
I have had pizza from the wooster street pepe's twice in the last six weeks. Both times the pizza was good, but not great. The crust was kind of stiff and the pies just lacked that bit of pizza soul that separates good pizza from transcendent pizza.
Motorino in Manhattan
I had truly extraordinary pizza at the Manhattan Motorino two days ago for lunch. I ordered three pies, the brussels sprouts and pancetta, spicy soppressata, and a margherita. The crust was slightly chewy and crisp on the outside and tender on the inside.The crusts were not soggy at all. I brought them back to SE World HQ and everyone seemed to agree that this was world-class pizza.
Shake Shack, Bill's, and RUB: It's Rainin' Smashed Burgers In This Burg
I saw Alan Richman's review. I don't think he understands the potential appeal of a thin, crisp, smashed burger. Clearly the burgers he ate at Bill's were not juicy at all. One problem at Bill's that perhaps I should have written about is that nobody at the restaurant wants to tell you that when you order a burger you can ask for it extra juicy. When I asked the chef, Paul Sale, about that he explained that the difference between extra juicy and regular at Bill's is about 10 seconds on its super-hot griddle. Extra juicy just means there will be some visibly pink meat in the burger. Maybe I will see if Alan will go with me to Bill's and have an extra juicy burger.
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Ed Levine's Serious Diet, Week 95: Weighing In The Day After Thankgiving
Posted by Ed Levine, November 27, 2009 at 10:00 AM
Happy Thanksgiving, Serious Eaters
Posted by Ed Levine, November 26, 2009 at 9:00 AM
The Secret to Adam Perry Lang's Amazing Sweet Potatoes: Bananas
Posted by Ed Levine, November 25, 2009 at 4:15 PM
Ed Levine's Serious Diet, Week 94: Too Many Chocolate Chip Cookie Taste Tests
Posted by Ed Levine, November 20, 2009 at 10:00 AM
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Recent Comments | Response to Comments
Ma Peche, 'Momofuku Midtown': Tien Ho Is a Peach of a Chef
the soup isn't served at breakfast. just lunch and dinner starting at 11:30, I believe. No brunch, gargupie. Breakfast goes from 7 to 11. Then the all day menu starts. Dinner sounds great, momstheword. That's the time to go during the week.
Dear Slice: 'Heading to NYC, and Pepe's in New Haven'
I have had pizza from the wooster street pepe's twice in the last six weeks. Both times the pizza was good, but not great. The crust was kind of stiff and the pies just lacked that bit of pizza soul that separates good pizza from transcendent pizza.
Motorino in Manhattan
I had truly extraordinary pizza at the Manhattan Motorino two days ago for lunch. I ordered three pies, the brussels sprouts and pancetta, spicy soppressata, and a margherita. The crust was slightly chewy and crisp on the outside and tender on the inside.The crusts were not soggy at all. I brought them back to SE World HQ and everyone seemed to agree that this was world-class pizza.
Shake Shack, Bill's, and RUB: It's Rainin' Smashed Burgers In This Burg
I saw Alan Richman's review. I don't think he understands the potential appeal of a thin, crisp, smashed burger. Clearly the burgers he ate at Bill's were not juicy at all. One problem at Bill's that perhaps I should have written about is that nobody at the restaurant wants to tell you that when you order a burger you can ask for it extra juicy. When I asked the chef, Paul Sale, about that he explained that the difference between extra juicy and regular at Bill's is about 10 seconds on its super-hot griddle. Extra juicy just means there will be some visibly pink meat in the burger. Maybe I will see if Alan will go with me to Bill's and have an extra juicy burger.
Sunday Brunch: Cheese and Chive Hash Brown Potato Cakes
I'm so glad you liked it.
'Wichcraft For Dinner: Trying To Go Beyond Sandwiches
I'll make sure to try it next time.
David Sax's Top Five Deli Dishes In New York
What about the corned beef hash or the drenched in schmaltz, mondo-sized potato knishes at the Carnegie Deli? Or the brisket Reuben at Artie's? Or even the hot dog with pastrami bits topping at Lansky's?
The Nasty Bits: Crisp Fried Pig's Ears
I don't care much for pig's ears myself, but I really enjoy Chichi's Nasty Bits posts. They are entertaining, informative, and downright fun. And they don't make me feel like any less of a foodie. And offal in particular and trends in general are by no means the only things we champion here at Serious Eats.
Lady M Cake Boutique Cheesecake: The Last Cut Is The Deepest
I did keep a straight face, rebeccadiamond. But I still can't believe I didn't say anything to the woman who did the extraneous slicing, whereintheworldisben. It's not like me. I usually would squawk. I should have said, "Have you no shame, gentlewoman?" That would have been appropriate for the neighborhood.
Need Off The Radar Dining Suggestions
Here's a good one: $50 White Truffle Dinner every Tuesday night through December 1st at Sapori d’Ischia in Woodside. There's no deal like it in the city.
Top 10 Sandwiches in Brooklyn
two excellent roast beef, mozzarella and brown gravy hero spots:
Monte's
156 Avenue O,
718-259-1500;
Clemente's
138 Avenue T,
1-800-427-0556.
Impressive Lunch in NYC this Friday
Jean-Georges is a great choice, as is Alto. The Inoteca side of Del Posto is also really good value at lunch or dinner.
The Dessert Files: SWEET at the New York Wine and Food Festival
Those chocolate and olive oil bastoncino sound incredible. I want one now.
Lamb Burgers from Eleven Madison Park
They're available at the bar and in the lounge area at both lunch and dinner. We had them at lunch.
Lamb Burgers from Eleven Madison Park
Good question, gustoct. You certainly could argue that these are meatballs, except they don't have any breadcrumbs in them. Doesn't a meatball have to have some breadcrumbs in it to be considered a meatball?
Hot Doug's in Chicago: Good Hot Dogs and Good Neighbors in Line
Thanks, Teachertalk. You're absolutely right. I've made the correction.
How Do You Slip the Waiter Extra Tip Money?
This is indeed is a tough one, Adam. Most of my friends look to me to tell them how much to leave as a tip. I don't know what I would do in the situation you laid out.
"Date night" lunch on Friday
Mookie has a great idea. I reviewed eleven madison park's lunch deal a couple of weeks ago. jean-georges also has the same lunch deal as well. In Brooklyn I really like Char No. 4's Friday-only lunch menu. My review of it is going up tonight.
Critic-Turned-Cook Finds Her Dream Job at a Frat House Kitchen
A frat house with good food. That's a man-bites-dog story, for sure. Great post, Leslie.
Serious Beer: Tasting Oktoberfest Brews
Great post, Maggie. We're thrilled to have you as our beer bureau chief. A toast, then, to Maggie Hoffman, Serious Eats' first beer bureau chief.
Recreating the Adult Brownies from Andronico's
Tam brought these brownies into Serious Eats World HQ. They are amazing, the best brownies I have ever eaten, sweet, salty, and amazingly intense. I made her write this post. All serious eaters will be happy I did.
Ed Levine's Serious Diet, Week 86: Is 200 Pounds Out of My Reach?
I play squash three times a week and ride my bike to work another 2 or 3 times a week.
Bar Americain Fried Chicken
No, I didn't even know about Bar Americaine's fried chicken Mondays. We will check it out for sure. Thanks for the heads up. Ed
Shacktober Fest: A Frank Appraisal
My bad on the invention front. I will say, and I know this may be painful to hear for present or past St. Louis residents, when we did a straight comparative blind taste test between Shake Shack and Ted Drewes frozen custard, Shake Shack won handily. Of course it must be said that the Ted Drewes custard was shipped and the Shake Shack custard was fresh.
The Great New York Fancy-Pants Fried Chicken Roundup
The value thing is tricky, but I do think we were reasonably consistent. You get a whole chicken, vegetables, and pancakes at monofuku for $50, which is a very good deal. It feeds four people with leftovers At Brooklyn Bowl, the half-chicken and two not special sides for $18 probably feeds 1 1/2 people,is not nearly as good, deliciousness-wise. And you're in a bowling alley (albeit, a really cool bowling alley).
Does Anyone Really Love Pumpkin Pie?
Though I do like pumpkin pie, there are many pies that I would prefer any day, such as strawberry rhubarb or lemon meringue. I did find an AWESOME recipe, though, for pumpkin pie, and it was the second pie to disappear at a Thanksgiving dinner for 30 friends this year, out of about 7 other pie chioces. (The first to disappear was also mine- Dorie Greenspan's "Favorite Pecan Pie" with chocolate and espresso.) I'll be making it again for my family...it's Sherry Yard's Triple Silken Pumpkin Pie from "Desserts by the Yard." Baked in a springform pan, the bottom layer is pumpkin custard, then a layer of maple whipped cream, then a layer of caramel pumpkin mousse....truly an awesome pie and worth the work!
Dear Slice: 'Heading to NYC, and Pepe's in New Haven'
Adam out of respect for the Wooster St legacy I kept Pepe's at #3 because of the respect issue and because there are other pies Like the Clam which are out of this world. But I observed other people cutting into their pies and everyone was having the same issue and looked upset that it was taking so much work to eat their pies.....
the slice when you would pick it up would stay straight that's how tough the actual crust has been coming out of the oven lately at both locations.
I've eaten Pizza in quite a few cities and I've followed the GQ Pizza Article on a few of the Detroit pizzeria's since I have family on my wife's side who live out that way.
I really enjoyed buddy's pizza and actually found photos on my cell phone that I sent in. Way different pizza squares and such....
But back to New Haven, for the health conscious Pizza eater up the road about 4 miles up on Whitney ave in Hamden there is Olde World Pizza they do lo carb and even wheat pizza. It's not coal oven but it's pretty good stuff as well.
I haven't eaten yet at the new Yonkers location or the Mohegan Sun for Pepe's but once they went to 7 days a week and opening up at 11:30am something has changed, you need more staff, different people making the pizza and it's just different at Pepe's right now...
I should send them an email because I'm asked all the time 6'3 300lbs which of the big 5 is the best and I tell anyone depends on what you like on it. Sausage hands down is Zupps...... Modern is bigger in seating capacity, very thin Apizza...But they have won best pizza in the Advocate for the past 7 years....Ballot stuffing who knows..... But everyone I know loves Modern. The one thing I do love in regards to the peperoni used at Sallys and Pepe's is that it's cut off the stick.....It doesn't get any better than that......
Then you have to go down the block on Wooster for Italian Ice at Libby's.
Libby's has a new location in North Haven right down the street from me.
Homemade just awesomeness is all I can say. You want any Italian Cookie or Angel Wings, expresso , etc.....It doesn't get any better than Libby's after throwing down.....
Anyone ever wants to do a Pizza throwdown with a Former/Transplanted New Yorker.....
Just drop me a line.....
Enjoy the weekend and holidays everyone...
Ma Peche, 'Momofuku Midtown': Tien Ho Is a Peach of a Chef
Here's a voice from the Peanut Gallery (Los Angeles). On the West Side, Pho 99 at 11819 Wilshire Blvd, has excellent Banh Mi for about $4.95, delicious Pho, and many other Vietnamese dishes well prepared at low prices. Pleasant atmosphere with attractive art on the walls. Accommodating waiters, who take substitutions helpfully (noodles instead of rice in some standard dishes).
Don't be put off by seeming distance; it's their newly growing command of English that makes THEM uncomfortable. With a few seconds of effort they warm up and become quite friendly. And any back-and-forth when asking for substitutions is not reluctance, but an attempt to get your request clear in their mind despite any possible language barrier.
I've eaten there several times a month. Recently I was under the weather and their chicken soup Pho was a life-saver. it's not just from Jewish mothers.
Motorino in Manhattan
Motorino's pizza is very close to the napolitano pizza I grew up with in Italy. It's not American-style pizza. I understand it's different. I love it! If the chef is there, he inspects the pies. I've seen him throw away pies that were too charred.
Motorino in Manhattan
I agree with you. was there two night ago and had the margherita. Very good crust. poor toppings, by which I mean not enough of all and too much oil.
Ma Peche, 'Momofuku Midtown': Tien Ho Is a Peach of a Chef
@Pupster: I'm pretty sure 99% of Ed's reviews have prices in them. The difference this time was that none of the prices were online and we couldn't get in touch with someone who could tell them to us...but lesson learned for the future: take note of them while eating!
Ma Peche, 'Momofuku Midtown': Tien Ho Is a Peach of a Chef
The hamburger was great--pricey at $16, but great...!!
Dear Slice: 'Heading to NYC, and Pepe's in New Haven'
Wow. Thanks for the great intel, offthemeter. Interesting that Pepe's still comes in at No. 3 even from what you say above. Before I got to your ranking, I expected it to be somewhere after Bar or Zuppardi's. It's now clear we'll have to go back and do Bar and Zuppardi's (and re-try Pepe's).
Dear Slice: 'Heading to NYC, and Pepe's in New Haven'
I want to chime in since I grew up in New York City and now live 10 minutes from the Big 5 Modern, Sally's Pepe's, Zuppardi's and Bar.
Pepe's the last 3 times in the past 2 months and 1 time at the Spot which is the original Pepe's. Their crust I couldn't even cut it with my knife and it was beyond noticeable. 4 times same Original Location and the same experience it's not a coincidence until I read the other posts on here today.
Sallys sauce when you ask for extra sauce is the sweetest of the bunch. The rudeness factor makes me laugh but my wife refuses to eat there and she's a native and lifer of the area. The issue is they can only squeeze in 10 pies into their oven at a time and they take phone orders if you can get through.
Modern is our favorite out of the Big 5 the Italian Bomb is a hearty pie sausage, pep, bacon, onion, red pepper. I'm a Pepperoni guy that's all I need and sometimes just good old Sauce and Grated does me fine as well.
Bar Pizza is made by someone who used to work at Sally's so that's why it gets high marks as a sleeper pizza. I've only had pepperoni and cheese and it was pretty good.
Zuppardi's in West Haven...Their sausage Pie is really good not Coal Oven though and the decor is very old school.... Gives it Character.
1.Modern
2.Sally's
3.Pepe's
4. Zups
5. Bar
Dear Slice: 'Heading to NYC, and Pepe's in New Haven'
"My experience is also that Pepe's is much more variable than it was when the previous generation was running it and before its expansion, but I have had some remarkably good pizza there recently...."
IMO, I strongly feel that product AND consistency is what makes a great pizzeria. Most pizzerias, either because of lack of ingredient quality, lack of skill sets by the pizzamakers and/or lack of passion are not even capable of making a great pizza to begin with.
A "great" pizzeria is capable of making a great pizza and is driven to get as close to that greatness as often as possible.....which is most of the time.
It sounds like Pepe's is in the process of falling, or has already fallen from greatness, even if it can still crank out a great pizza from time to time. That's really sad to this pizza lover and a situation that hopefully will right itself sooner than later.
Adam, the pic of the Sally's pizzas look delicious BTW. I need to get to New Haven ASAP! --K
Dear Slice: 'Heading to NYC, and Pepe's in New Haven'
@gustoct: Point noted. I'll have to try Pepe's next time I'm in New Haven to see how the crust fares again. Now that I know how easy/quick it is to get to with a Zipcar, that should be soon.
Just called to verify with Zuppardi's Apizza: They use a gas-fired oven. No coal.
Dear Slice: 'Heading to NYC, and Pepe's in New Haven'
As a New Haven whose exposure goes back 47 years and who simply won't put up with the treatment at Sally's, I have mainly frequented Pepe's with occasional detours at Modern (as well as other places not as good and some really great ones, alas no longer with us). My experience is also that Pepe's is much more variable than it was when the previous generation was running it and before its expansion, but I have had some remarkably good pizza there recently and disagree with Ed's verdict (of course, I didn't have the pies he had). You get superb pizza more often than not and I haven't had a BAD one. My experience with the Fairfield location has actually been quite good, but I haven't tried the others.
I'll have to try Zuppardi's in West Havenm. Do they have a coal oven?
Ma Peche, 'Momofuku Midtown': Tien Ho Is a Peach of a Chef
Prices are almost never mentioned on this site.. I wish they would list the prices of the things they ate.
Thanks pupster.
Ma Peche, 'Momofuku Midtown': Tien Ho Is a Peach of a Chef
Oh, and the house banh mi wasn't very good. Some slack because they are just opening up, but really, that sandwich was nothing to write home about. There are better versions in Brooklyn for $4.
Ma Peche, 'Momofuku Midtown': Tien Ho Is a Peach of a Chef
You neglect to price any of these items, but I'll do it for you because as Ma Peche is inside the Chambers Hotel, you are working with hotel food prices.
First, the Midtown Lunch specials are only on weekdays and for a limited time. We found this out when we went on Saturday.
Bahn Mi $10 (just a six inch sandwich, no side, no garnish)
Pork rice noodles $18
Burger w/ fries $16
The 4 cookies and milk $10 (!)
In other words, this stuff (like the downtown Momos) are overpriced for what you get. Unless you get multiple items, expect to be hungry with these portions.
Serious Eats City Guide Premiere: New York (How to Leave Here Pleasantly Full)
@Ed: I think most New Yorkers might be over the Shake Shack burger - am I alone here? There is an amazing burger down in FiDi at a hotel bar - I would definitely add it to the list - at The Libertine..
Motorino in Manhattan
My wife and I were there a month ago. Service was great. The flavors were great. I like a nice charred crust, but they were a little burnt in my opinion. I have only been there once, I would go back anytime.
Shake Shack, Bill's, and RUB: It's Rainin' Smashed Burgers In This Burg
it's restaurant conglomerate versus restaurant conglomerate here; i can't imagine a burger from the same people as blue water grill would be any good but . . . . i want some of those veggie fries!
Dear Slice: 'Heading to NYC, and Pepe's in New Haven'
@jwardell: Went to the Pepe's on Wooster. The big one, not The Spot. We ordered a clam pie and a sausage/mozzarella pie. My main complaint was with the ABSOLUTE TOUGHNESS of the crust. OMG. Jawache after trying a slice of each. Even if it had the most flavorful plain sauce/grated cheese, I'd still have an issue with the crust. Tell me how ordering a plain pie is going to change the crust situation and I may reconsider my assessment on further review.
Dear Slice: 'Heading to NYC, and Pepe's in New Haven'
How can you diss Pepes when you didn't order a plainchees pie to compare it to the others?
I also wonder if you wen to one of its satellite locations which of course are nowhere near the original.
Also head into Reginas in boston (again, the original north end location), get a plain cheese well done.
Dear Slice: 'Heading to NYC, and Pepe's in New Haven'
We're pretty much with you, Adam. I like Sally's best overall, Lil digs Modern's tomato pie, but Sally's mozz. We agree that Pepe's is third. Still, we'd be happy with any of the three on any given day.
Dear Slice: 'Heading to NYC, and Pepe's in New Haven'
A few weeks ago, I stopped at Sally's while driving back from Boston to NYC, around 8pm on a Wednesday night. It was about half-full. The service was friendly, and not unpleasant. But the pizza... was superb. For two of us, we got a medium pie with mozzarella, and a medium eggplant parmesan pie (it was a special). Both were exceptionally delicious--if they have the eggplant pie, definitely get it--it's the best eggplant pizza you'll ever eat.
Dear Slice: 'Heading to NYC, and Pepe's in New Haven'
I'm astounded by the undeserved dis of Pepe's clam pie. It was only a few weeks ago that my food writer friend and I drove up to NH with the specific intention of eating that very pizza. We even called ahead to make sure Pepe's had a clam pie that day since we were disappointed last time around when no clams were to be had. We arrived about 3pm. Not much of a wait at that time of day. We were seated almost as soon as we walked through the door. We ordered our prey. It came to the table large, hot, redolent of garlic and chopped fresh salty succulent clams. A little sprinkling of cheese (not a no-no in this instance) The crust was perfect. Chewy, crisp and light. Not a bit doughy or tough. The pie was, in a word, perfection and I will defend it to the death. To paraphrase a well-respected, former contender for the vice presidency of the United States-- I have had Pepe's clam pie and Lombardy's you are no Pepe's.
Dear Slice: 'Heading to NYC, and Pepe's in New Haven'
Man, I really dont like sliced tomatoes on my pizza...but the "plain" and sausage look gooood! Used to go to Ricky's Clam House often back in the daze of yore..so funny its a Frank Pepe's now. Hope its good.
Dear Slice: 'Heading to NYC, and Pepe's in New Haven'
With 20/20 hindsight, we should have hit Bar instead of Pepe's. Even then, we would have been cutting it close. We were told by a New Havenite who joined us at Modern that Bar would likely have a long wait but that we could probably do a Pepe's take-out pie in between Modern and Sally's. And so that's what we did.
Recent Posts
Ed Levine's Serious Diet, Week 95: Weighing In The Day After Thankgiving
Posted by Ed Levine, November 27, 2009 at 10:00 AM
Happy Thanksgiving, Serious Eaters
Posted by Ed Levine, November 26, 2009 at 9:00 AM
The Secret to Adam Perry Lang's Amazing Sweet Potatoes: Bananas
Posted by Ed Levine, November 25, 2009 at 4:15 PM
Ed Levine's Serious Diet, Week 94: Too Many Chocolate Chip Cookie Taste Tests
Posted by Ed Levine, November 20, 2009 at 10:00 AM
Ma Peche, 'Momofuku Midtown': Tien Ho Is a Peach of a Chef
Posted by Ed Levine, November 17, 2009 at 11:00 PM
Ed Levine's Serious Diet, Week 93: Can Pizza Be Diet Food?
Posted by Ed Levine, November 13, 2009 at 8:30 AM
Brooklyn Star Brunch: The South Has Risen Again in Williamsburg
Posted by Ed Levine, November 10, 2009 at 11:00 PM
Win Tickets To A Pre-Thanksgiving Feast For A Great Cause This Monday
Posted by Ed Levine, November 6, 2009 at 5:30 PM
Ed Levine's Serious Diet, Week 92: What Happened to Caffeine-Free Diet Coke?
Posted by Ed Levine, November 6, 2009 at 8:30 AM
Amazing 66: A Truly Amazing Menu in Manhattan's Chinatown
Posted by Ed Levine, November 3, 2009 at 11:00 PM
Ed Levine's Serious Diet, Week 91: Diet Armageddon or Hell Week
Posted by Ed Levine, October 30, 2009 at 8:45 AM
Yankees vs. Phillies: The Serious Eats World Series
Posted by Ed Levine, October 28, 2009 at 2:45 PM
Shake Shack, Bill's, and RUB: It's Rainin' Smashed Burgers In This Burg
Posted by Ed Levine, October 27, 2009 at 11:00 PM
Book Giveaway: Mike Colameco's Food Lover's Guide to NYC
Posted by Ed Levine, October 24, 2009 at 12:00 PM
Ed Levine's Serious Diet, Week 90: The Return of Thinner
Posted by Ed Levine, October 23, 2009 at 8:40 AM
'Wichcraft For Dinner: Trying To Go Beyond Sandwiches
Posted by Ed Levine, October 20, 2009 at 11:00 PM
Lady M Cake Boutique Cheesecake: The Last Cut Is The Deepest
Posted by Ed Levine, October 19, 2009 at 11:30 AM
Is Locavorism For Rich Folks Only?
Posted by Ed Levine, October 18, 2009 at 5:00 PM
Ed Levine's Serious Diet, Week 89: Will No Thinner Make Me Fatter?
Posted by Ed Levine, October 16, 2009 at 8:55 AM
Save Prime Burger, A Burger Shop With Real Character
Posted by Ed Levine, October 15, 2009 at 10:00 AM
The Sam Sifton Era Begins: He's A Serious Eater, All Right
Posted by Ed Levine, October 14, 2009 at 10:30 AM
Joseph Leonard for Lunch: Next Stop, Yummyville?
Posted by Ed Levine, October 13, 2009 at 11:00 PM
Lamb Burgers from Eleven Madison Park
Posted by Ed Levine, October 12, 2009 at 3:00 PM
Ed Levine's Serious Diet, Week 88: Are Bananas Helping or Hurting My Weight?
Posted by Ed Levine, October 9, 2009 at 8:30 AM
Did the Internet Kill 'Gourmet' Magazine?
Posted by Ed Levine, October 8, 2009 at 2:15 PM
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About Ed Levine
Website: http://www.edlevineeats.com
Location: NYC
About: I am the Serious Eats overlord. Launching the site has been the greatest experience of my life, and it continues to be that to this day.
Favorite foods: fried chicken, pizza, barbecue, pie, ice cream
Last bite on earth: Gus' World Famous Fried Chicken, some awesome fries, a few hush puppies, and some piping hot biscuits
the soup isn't served at breakfast. just lunch and dinner starting at 11:30, I believe. No brunch, gargupie. Breakfast goes from 7 to 11. Then the all day menu starts. Dinner sounds great, momstheword. That's the time to go during the week.