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Who could be better than Steingarten. Exhausting. Probably humiliating. But you'd learn more than you could in a year by any other source and your worst fear would be choking from laughing so much. I do hear his wife is quite charming.
On the matter of JS he seems to be giving his best stuff to Men's Vogue now: His Knife Quest in the current issue is one of his best ever in my book. and they've got his amazing Foie Gras piece, which made the Best Food Writing book, online at: http://www.mensvogue.com/food/articles/2006/08/21/foie_gras