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Critic-Turned-Cook Gets Hurt Mixing Politics and Food
@FlavorCountry: If you really want to understand the history of the levees and why they and those responsible for building and maintaining them ought are at fault here, I'd direct you and anyone else interested to a phenomenal book called Rising Tide: The Great Mississippi Flood of 1927 and How it Changed America. The historical lessons are directly on point and, because the book came out well before Katrina, it has none of the political finger-pointing that typically overwhelms disagreements about Katrina.
Also, without getting into a political discussion of how the role of government has changed since the 1870s, I'd still argue that the comparison to Chicago is inapt. Even after the fire, transcontinental commerce and transportation was such that Chicago was critical to the nation's financial lifeblood. There was a whole lot of money for private investors to make by buying up land and building up businesses in the city, some of which actually expanded thanks to the fire. New Orleans does not occupy nearly as important of a place in the country's finances. Even before the current financial crisis, there was simply not anywhere near enough immediate incentive for private business to invest in New Orleans.
Chicago Openings: Nella Pizzeria Napoletana, Nov. 20, 2009
I'm going to give them a few weeks before doing a formal review, but I went tonight for a family and friends night before the official opening and the pizza is phenomenal. This place more than lives up to all of the advance hype.
Cheeseburger Pizza at Nite 'N Gale: Too Much Pickle
@lkrier: The burrito pizza looks really good. Fewer pickles definitely would have been an improvement. I think an ideal cheeseburger pizza would also have some onion and another cheese in addition to mozzarella. The pickles were just way too strong of a flavor.
@hmlicata: The purpose of the trip was to try the cheeseburger pizza so Buffo's was not what I was looking for. I'll make it to Buffo's eventually.
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Recent Posts
Cheeseburger Pizza at Nite 'N Gale: Too Much Pickle
Posted by Daniel Zemans, November 18, 2009 at 3:30 PM
Hackney's in Chicago: The Best Underseasoned Mushy Burger in Town
Posted by Daniel Zemans, November 12, 2009 at 10:45 AM
Imo's Pizza: St. Louis' Inexplicably Addictive Pie
Posted by Daniel Zemans, November 11, 2009 at 10:30 AM
Mundelein, Illinois: Bill's Pizza & Pub
Posted by Daniel Zemans, November 4, 2009 at 3:15 PM
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The AHT Guide to Hamburger and Cheeseburger Styles
Posted by Adam Kuban, September 18, 2009 at 9:55 AM
Dinner Tonight: Smoky Chipotle-Balsamic Dressing
Posted by Nick Kindelsperger, September 12, 2007 at 4:00 PM
Doughnut Plant's Creme Brulee Doughnuts
Posted by Kathy YL Chan, December 5, 2008 at 4:00 PM
Grilling Smackdown: Lump Charcoal vs. Briquettes
Posted by Joshua Bousel, May 21, 2008 at 12:15 PM
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Recent Comments | Response to Comments
Whoa, Nella: Grassano's Return to Chicago's Pizza Scene Is Imminent
@jedfielding: Thanks for commenting; I'm a fan of Spacca as well. Incidentally, when posting about Spacca, you should probably disclose that you are friends with the owners and that your photographs (which">http://www.jedfielding.com/city-of-secrets.html">which are great) adorn the walls.
Critic-Turned-Cook Gets Hurt Mixing Politics and Food
@FlavorCountry: If you really want to understand the history of the levees and why they and those responsible for building and maintaining them ought are at fault here, I'd direct you and anyone else interested to a phenomenal book called Rising Tide: The Great Mississippi Flood of 1927 and How it Changed America. The historical lessons are directly on point and, because the book came out well before Katrina, it has none of the political finger-pointing that typically overwhelms disagreements about Katrina.
Also, without getting into a political discussion of how the role of government has changed since the 1870s, I'd still argue that the comparison to Chicago is inapt. Even after the fire, transcontinental commerce and transportation was such that Chicago was critical to the nation's financial lifeblood. There was a whole lot of money for private investors to make by buying up land and building up businesses in the city, some of which actually expanded thanks to the fire. New Orleans does not occupy nearly as important of a place in the country's finances. Even before the current financial crisis, there was simply not anywhere near enough immediate incentive for private business to invest in New Orleans.
Chicago Openings: Nella Pizzeria Napoletana, Nov. 20, 2009
I'm going to give them a few weeks before doing a formal review, but I went tonight for a family and friends night before the official opening and the pizza is phenomenal. This place more than lives up to all of the advance hype.
Cheeseburger Pizza at Nite 'N Gale: Too Much Pickle
@lkrier: The burrito pizza looks really good. Fewer pickles definitely would have been an improvement. I think an ideal cheeseburger pizza would also have some onion and another cheese in addition to mozzarella. The pickles were just way too strong of a flavor.
@hmlicata: The purpose of the trip was to try the cheeseburger pizza so Buffo's was not what I was looking for. I'll make it to Buffo's eventually.
Standing Room Only: Budacki's Drive-In
Have never had the mild there. I'll try to get to Budacki's soon and report back on the sauce questions.
Standing Room Only: Budacki's Drive-In
These wings are addictive. They sell 5 for $5 or 10 for $7. I live 2 blocks away and have been many times. I've managed to limit myself to an order of 5 just once. Just thinking of these incredible wings has me salivating.
Nick, which heat level did you try? I've always gotten spicy. I'm tempted to go for the hotter one, but a bit worried about is as well.
Imo's Pizza: St. Louis' Inexplicably Addictive Pie
@lemons: Very well said.
Hackney's in Chicago: The Best Underseasoned Mushy Burger in Town
@ALRUI: It's possible that the griddle wasn't hot enough, but the medium rare buffalo burger was also mushy.
@RossS: I agree that the problems are with the work Hackney's does, not with the quality of their ingredients. But Hackney's took good ingredients and failed to season them well and then failed to cook them well. How does my writing about that make the review unfair?
$5 Burgers Next Week at Primehouse in Chicago
@jjchampion: I was there for lunch today as well. You're right that they weren't technically included, but if requested, as my dining companion did, they did throw them in at no extra charge. I had the pastrami burger, which was incredible (40% pastrami, 60% chuck, with onions, swiss and bacon mustard all on a rye bun).
Whoa, Nella: Grassano's Return to Chicago's Pizza Scene Is Imminent
It's official: Doors will open on Friday, November 20.
In Which I Find Margherita Pizzas Boring
Adam, this post warms my heart. Welcome to my world.
A Pizza-Eating Feat for the Ages
I just discovered that Scharoff's feat is not unprecedented. Matt McClellan, owner of Tour de Pizza in Tampa, went a month earlier this year eating nothing but pizza. He was motivated to the challenge by a desire to show that pizza isn't actually that bad for you. His results were shocking: eating nothing but pizza for 30 days, McClellan lost over 20 pounds! Read all about his month in this article from the St. Petersburg Times.
Whoa, Nella: Grassano's Return to Chicago's Pizza Scene Is Imminent
@seriouspizza: Not yet, but they are very close. A couple of red tape delays. Should be good to go in two weeks. Hopefully.
Mundelein, Illinois: Bill's Pizza & Pub
@MsHumpal: It's my understanding that virtually everyone who has lived in Mundelein or the surrounding parts of Lake County in the last five decades has been to Bill's. I'm guessing your dad has some good memories of the place.
@Mad Ernie: Thanks. I don't know about Pyramid Pizza, but Beau Jo's has a considerably larger and denser crust than the Double Decker at Bill's.
@steelcity: Every kind of pizza is my kind of pizza! I looked at the website for Bill's in NC and the pizza looked very Midwestern to me (square cut, lots of cheese). Then I read the history section and it all made sense - the people who started it moved there from Indiana. I am very intrigued by the Carolina influence of the place though - they offer a mustard pizza sauce?
@DinnerDuJour and hookrilla: Glad you approve of my description of your local pizzeria. It really was a fun place to visit.
Is Chicago's La Madia a Pizzeria or Restaurant? Who Cares?
Since I revisited this post once to reiterate how good La Madia is, I feel bound to come back once again to report on the pizza I had there Sunday night. It was about 9:30 and Jonathan Fox was nowhere to be seen. The difference was astounding - the pizza was bad. I won't write off the place, but for now I can't recommend it unless Fox is in the kitchen.
A Pizza-Eating Feat for the Ages
@HeartofGlass: In the Tribune article, he actually listed Tombstone as one of his favorites. Who am I to judge? As for the Tabasco, I don't use it myself, but it's not that different from using red pepper flakes, is it?
@dmcavanagh: You might be right. But like climbing Mount Everest, there is a big difference between having the theoretical capability of doing something and actually doing it.
@lemonfair: The weight loss is perhaps the most impressive part of all this. The guy who lost the bet attributes the weight loss, at least in part, to the fact that the bet stopped him from finishing off food his kids left behind on their plates.
Prairie Grass Cafe: One Restaurant With Two Styles of High Grade Burgers in Illinois
@pastry262: Good catch and I've changed the review to reflect that. The server did not hesitate one bit when I asked for the Top Sirloin Burger on a bun. I suspect it's not an uncommon request and it was one they were happy to accommodate.
Pi Pizzeria, St. Louis: Checking Out President Obama's Purported Favorite Pie
@Brian Spangler: Is that because you don't like Little Star or is it just the concept of using someone else's recipe as the basis for a pizzeria?
Thai Pizza Co in St. Louis: Testing the Universality of Pizza
@bogusrogus: Good point regarding the bread. I still the cheese issue is relevant, but you're definitely right to point out that people not particularly concerned with making bread would have trouble producing a quality crust.
@foolishpoolish: I'm with you on saag paneer pizza 100%. In fact, it was thinking of that that stopped me from condemning all of Asia. And back to my cheese point and bogusrogus's bread point - neither of those apply to India, a country that does use cheese and puts out nan, a classic flatbread.
@finewinendine: Thanks for the editing help. I've fixed the text to reflect my original sentence. I must have messed up cutting and pasting in the editing process.
@Lyra Ngalia and esseelig: I feel bad writing a place off after one visit so I'll have to give the chicken satay pizza a try next time I'm in U City. Could be a while before that happens though.
Dinner Tonight: Patty Melt
@Nick: I might have to go to my decidedly not reputable local market and get some ground beef to whip one of these up tonight. Thanks for the idea.
@Meat guy: How do you get from "e coli concern" to not showing a picture of a rare burger. Leaving aside that I have no idea how you can declare that burger to be rare, I'll address the overreaction to e coli fears. If you, as I'm guessing Nick did in this case, grind the meat yourself, your chances of e coli are somewhere around zero. If you buy your meat from a butcher who grinds fresh chuck, then once again the chances of e coli are somewhere around zero. If you buy your ground beef from a store with standards like Costco that actually tests the meat they buy before they put it on the shelves, once again, your chances of e coli problems are about zero. Caution is a good thing and making sure that your beef comes from a safe source is certainly a good idea, but paranoia gets in the way of some excellent eats.
@hungrychristel: Try mixing an egg into your ground beef (one egg per pound). I don't think it affects the taste at all and the egg works binding magic.
Lobster Pizza at Chicago's Blue 13
@forzapizza: I haven't tried Porretta's. I'm always happy to try a new cracker crust pie, so perhaps a trip over to Portage Park is in order.
@miznoodles: I'm a little confused by your response. When lobster is served in a sauce, do you think the chef's intent is for the diner to let the sauce fall away from the lobster before eating it? Seems to me the intent is for the creamy, usually well-seasoned sauce to be enjoyed with the lobster. It works frequently in that scenario and, I thought, it worked really well at Blue 13 on a pizza.
Lobster Pizza at Chicago's Blue 13
@Chew on That: There's definitely more lobster on the pizza than appears in the picture. It wasn't overflowing with lobster, but I definitely didn't feel close to cheated. The manchego had a strong flavor but there was enough lobster that I could taste it in almost every bite.
An Epic Quest For Pizza Immortality: Eating Nothing But Sausage Pizza for a Month
@Sean: As I mentioned above in the comments, adding things to an already cooked pizza is not allowed, so there will be wings or anything else tossed on after the fact. Our hero's wife and kids seem to be unaffected by his devotion to pizza.
He had a dinner out at a nice restaurant that only sells a couple of pizza appetizers, only one of which has sausage. While his wife had a full meal, he had the one sausage appetizer pizza on the menu and a second off-menu one that the restaurant made upon learning of his bet.
More recently, he was at a conference for work and he drank water at a large meal where everyone else feasted on prime rib before retiring to his room for some take-out pizza.
An Epic Quest For Pizza Immortality: Eating Nothing But Sausage Pizza for a Month
@graciecat and Adam: One of the rules is that he can't add anything to the pizzas - ingredients must be cooked with the pies. So unless he finds a place that offers prunes as an ingredient, that's not an option. Of course, there are no rules against him asking for sausage with a quadruple helping of tomatoes, but inventive ways to get fiber onto the pizza isn't really necessary though because...
@Garvey: Metamucil is allowed as long as it's not in lieu of eating pizza.
McDonald's Coming to the Louvre Next Month
America's domination of the world is now complete. Victory!
Whoa, Nella: Grassano's Return to Chicago's Pizza Scene Is Imminent
Don't know much about the new guys, but Spacca's thin crust is the best this side of Naples
Critic-Turned-Cook Gets Hurt Mixing Politics and Food
Although I felt a strangle in my chest when I read this post, I'm glad to have done so. I love the Crescent City and could easily go on a diatribe regarding the aftermath of that devastating storm. But I'll just stick to the food and say the post puts me in the mood for a good muff, whose piece de resistance, of course, is the olive salad.
Cheeseburger Pizza at Nite 'N Gale: Too Much Pickle
There are some hybrid pizzas that work: a buffalo chicken pizza and a philly cheese steak pizza can be delicious if done correctly.
Cheeseburger Pizza at Nite 'N Gale: Too Much Pickle
Ah, I thought of an exception. I used to like the Thai chicken pizza from Schlotzsky's, but then they cut way back on how spicy it was, and then they discontinued it altogether. :-(
So... maybe I've just been unlucky, but in my personal experience, most of the time these hybrid pizzas fall into some sort of food uncanny valley where they're not necessarily disgusting or anything, but are still inferior to either of their "parents".
But hey, I might try one again someday, as long as you're buying! :-)
Cheeseburger Pizza at Nite 'N Gale: Too Much Pickle
Hey, shouldnt this be on AHT too?
Cheeseburger Pizza at Nite 'N Gale: Too Much Pickle
They obviously took the meaning of "cheeseburger" too damn literally.
It is deplorable to even THINK about putting mustard and ketchup on a pizza, let alone pickles! This looks disgusting and probably tastes even worse.
Who wants to eat this crap?? They should stick to the basics: beef, cheese, (maybe more cheese), and onions.
Cheeseburger Pizza at Nite 'N Gale: Too Much Pickle
I tried the cheeseburger pizza at California Pizza kitchen. It didn't have ketchup, mustard or pickles, but it did get topped with lettuce, tomato and avocado. I liked it. [/ducks]
Whoa, Nella: Grassano's Return to Chicago's Pizza Scene Is Imminent
My family has been going to SpaccaNapoli since it has opened...we love the place! Great ambience, everyone gets what they want and it doesn't cost a fortune.....wouldn't go anywhere else for Neopolitan-style pizza!
Whoa, Nella: Grassano's Return to Chicago's Pizza Scene Is Imminent
@forzapizza I'm just glad my ship is going nowhere near Somalia.
Ciao,
Paulie Gee
Whoa, Nella: Grassano's Return to Chicago's Pizza Scene Is Imminent
Looks like Christmas come early for you Mr. Gee! Something tells me the scene at the dock is gonna look something like this...
Waiting for the oven!
Buona Fortuna!
Whoa, Nella: Grassano's Return to Chicago's Pizza Scene Is Imminent
It's no longer a rumor. And it's on the water. It left the Naples dock on 11/15. Due to arrive at the Brooklyn piers on 11/28. Or perhaps 11/29.
Ciao,
Paulie Gee
Whoa, Nella: Grassano's Return to Chicago's Pizza Scene Is Imminent
Hmmmm could mr ferrara be exporting that oven to ummmm? Brooklyn?
Whoa, Nella: Grassano's Return to Chicago's Pizza Scene Is Imminent
Is Wednesday too early to start waiting in line?
-Forza Pizza
Whoa, Nella: Grassano's Return to Chicago's Pizza Scene Is Imminent
I think it’s interesting that Spacca Napoli – my favorite Neapolitan pizza place outside of Italy - is about to expand. Then I read about other places opening now. Any of those will have to do a lot to take on Spacca.
Robert Scarola - Co-host "Cuisine Scene - Chicago" WIND-AM Radio at 7:03AM on 11/17/09
Standing Room Only: Budacki's Drive-In
Agreed on the sambal oelek. Wow, I bet that these are heaven... now I am kicking myself for not having tried them while we lived in Chicago. Oh, boo.
Standing Room Only: Budacki's Drive-In
Yep, that looks like sambal, not Sriracha.
Standing Room Only: Budacki's Drive-In
@Daniel Zemans: Absolutely went with spicy. Would the mild just be the buffalo sauce by itself?
In Which I Find Margherita Pizzas Boring
Too much talk, just eat your favorite pizza and enjoy.
Hackney's in Chicago: The Best Underseasoned Mushy Burger in Town
@DanielZemans: Hi Daniel, I came off wrong, it won't be the first time.:) I was weighing the fact that they actually made it rare, which seems to be the first place that "burger joints" err. As a customer, I would have overlooked the lacked of seasoning and been overjoyed that they didn't over-cook it. However, you were there to critique, which is simply what you did. So, I take back the unfair comment.
In Which I Find Margherita Pizzas Boring
One of the few benefits of living on LawnGuyland is we can get enough soil to grow basil the proper way.
@pizzablogger: I had to stare at GMAFB for a full thirty seconds before its meaning came to me. I've been out of Brooklyn too long.
In Which I Find Margherita Pizzas Boring
Crack for pizza eh Adam? is this driving the pizza commodity market up or down in the PNW?
In Which I Find Margherita Pizzas Boring
Please don't mention me in the same breath as the foolish one in this case. When it comes to whispering into the yeast, he is in a league of his own.
Ciao,
Paulie Gee
In Which I Find Margherita Pizzas Boring
@passion4pizza: yeast whisperer = no. raving lunatic with a propensity to blather at times = yes.
The real yeast whisperers here would be people like Foolish Poolish and Paulie Gee.....and most definitely some of the folks over at pizzamaking.com. I'm still a rank amateur when it comes to pizza making.
@seriouspizza: GMAFB. Don't use hydro basil, have and use 3 SD cultures as well as instant yeast and fool around with squares, rounds and grilled pizza for fun....although that mixture may brighten my mood today! :)
In Which I Find Margherita Pizzas Boring
Italian food has always been one of the more ingredient-driven cuisines, versus technique-driven cuisines like French and the various varieties of Chinese food. It's about starting with very high-quality ingredients and 'giving them respect.' Having high-quality ingredients that can stand on their own without much alteration can be hard for a business to do, and still sell enough pizza to stay in business.
I don't eat pizza much any more, and when I do I get just a very little bit of tomato sauce and one or two veggies, usually, not Margherita. For me, the most important and unique thing about any pizza is the crust, and that can never be 'boring,' just good or bad.
Re: toppings--I think there is a difference between getting one or two high-quality toppings, versus getting some kind of 'specialty' pie (like Hawaiian, artichoke, sausage and fennel, and so forth) because then you're throwing a completely different flavor profile into the mix.
Just out of curiosity, what do you think is the ideal cheese combo? It sounds like you're saying that, given the choice between a truly outstanding Italian-American slice, with provolone or some other cheeses in the 'mix' and the standard Margherita, you'd take the former. I think lots of people would agree with you on that choice.
Recent Posts
Cheeseburger Pizza at Nite 'N Gale: Too Much Pickle
Posted by Daniel Zemans, November 18, 2009 at 3:30 PM
Hackney's in Chicago: The Best Underseasoned Mushy Burger in Town
Posted by Daniel Zemans, November 12, 2009 at 10:45 AM
Imo's Pizza: St. Louis' Inexplicably Addictive Pie
Posted by Daniel Zemans, November 11, 2009 at 10:30 AM
Mundelein, Illinois: Bill's Pizza & Pub
Posted by Daniel Zemans, November 4, 2009 at 3:15 PM
Prairie Grass Cafe: One Restaurant With Two Styles of High Grade Burgers in Illinois
Posted by Daniel Zemans, October 29, 2009 at 10:00 AM
Pi Pizzeria, St. Louis: Checking Out President Obama's Purported Favorite Pie
Posted by Daniel Zemans, October 28, 2009 at 1:15 PM
Baconfest: An Ode to Pig Belly in Chicago
Posted by Daniel Zemans, October 26, 2009 at 5:15 PM
Whoa, Nella: Grassano's Return to Chicago's Pizza Scene Is Imminent
Posted by Daniel Zemans, October 23, 2009 at 11:40 AM
Top 5: Daniel Zemans' Favorite Burgers in Chicago
Posted by Daniel Zemans, October 22, 2009 at 10:00 AM
Thai Pizza Co in St. Louis: Testing the Universality of Pizza
Posted by Daniel Zemans, October 21, 2009 at 10:30 AM
An Epic Quest For Pizza Immortality: Eating Nothing But Sausage Pizza for a Month
Posted by Daniel Zemans, October 8, 2009 at 5:00 PM
You Can't Go Wrong with Sliders at Eat Rite Diner in St. Louis
Posted by Daniel Zemans, October 8, 2009 at 10:00 AM
Trattoria Roma: Come for the Pie, Stay for the Cake
Posted by Daniel Zemans, October 7, 2009 at 1:00 PM
Chicago Gourmet: A Can't Miss Culinary Celebration
Posted by Daniel Zemans, October 3, 2009 at 4:00 PM
Modern Burgers in the Modern Wing at Terzo Piano in Chicago
Posted by Daniel Zemans, October 1, 2009 at 10:00 AM
Terzo Piano: A Masterpiece in the Art Institute of Chicago
Posted by Daniel Zemans, September 30, 2009 at 11:15 AM
Zeeks Pizza: Seattle's Decent Mini-Chain Inspires Deep Pizza Thoughts
Posted by Daniel Zemans, September 24, 2009 at 5:15 PM
Zaharakos: A Wonderful Trip Back in Time with Burgers and Floats in Columbus, Indiana
Posted by Daniel Zemans, September 24, 2009 at 11:15 AM
Flying Squirrel Pizza Company: Former Starbucks Employee Treats Seattle Right
Posted by Daniel Zemans, September 16, 2009 at 1:25 PM
Burger Nirvana at David Burke's Primehouse in Chicago
Posted by Daniel Zemans, September 10, 2009 at 10:00 AM
Serious Pie: Seattle's Favorite Pizzeria Lives Up to Its Name
Posted by Daniel Zemans, September 9, 2009 at 1:45 PM
Frankie's Fifth Floor Pizzeria: Critical Error in Execution Dooms This Visit
Posted by Daniel Zemans, September 2, 2009 at 10:00 AM
An Overcooked Burger Is Saved by Good Seasoning at Erwin in Chicago
Posted by Daniel Zemans, August 27, 2009 at 10:45 AM
Recent Favorites
The AHT Guide to Hamburger and Cheeseburger Styles
Posted by Adam Kuban, September 18, 2009 at 9:55 AM
Dinner Tonight: Smoky Chipotle-Balsamic Dressing
Posted by Nick Kindelsperger, September 12, 2007 at 4:00 PM
Doughnut Plant's Creme Brulee Doughnuts
Posted by Kathy YL Chan, December 5, 2008 at 4:00 PM
Grilling Smackdown: Lump Charcoal vs. Briquettes
Posted by Joshua Bousel, May 21, 2008 at 12:15 PM
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About Daniel Zemans
Location: Chicago
About: Chicago correspondent for Slice; born, raised and live in Chicago, but had stops in Minnesota, St. Louis, New York and DC in between. Send complaints to dzemans [at] gmail.com.
Favorite foods: Pizza, smoked meats, candy, Mexican
Last bite on earth:

@jedfielding: Thanks for commenting; I'm a fan of Spacca as well. Incidentally, when posting about Spacca, you should probably disclose that you are friends with the owners and that your photographs (which">http://www.jedfielding.com/city-of-secrets.html">which are great) adorn the walls.