Chris is the associate editor for New York magazine's Grub Street. Before taking on that role, he covered Bronx restaurants, delved into the lives of Smorgasburg vendors, profiled New York food entrepreneurs, and reported on the aftermath of Hurricane Sandy for Serious Eats.
@PomeeDG that's an excellent point for conversation. Do you consider chilies to be a mainstay of Sichuan cuisine? Are tomatoes a mainstay of Italian cooking? Yucatan food would change demonstrably w/o sour orange, just like Sichuanese food wouldn't be the same w/o chilies. It doesn't matter where they came from, they're integral now. Cuisine is an exchange. It's constantly evolving.
As for whether sour orange supplanted a similar fruit, that's a good question. Citrus is native to Asia and didn't come to Mexico for some time. But there's plenty of native varieties of fruit in the state and throughout Mexico.
This is an excellent look into what makes an equally excellent place tick.
Bon voyage, Robyn! You are awesome. I will fondly remember the many noises you made over these last three years.
I wouldn't fret about: you're going during the week and it's the summer, meaning most students are gone. You can find parking on side streets pretty easily (no meters!).
By not taking it too seriously. It's a convenient way of saying, a lot of the Italian-American people you'll see there on sunny days or holidays are coming in from Westchester.
That being said, there's definitely a Westchester accent, rooted in the city accent (particularly Jewish/Italian), that is different than the accent in Connecticut or Maryland, for example.
Judith, will do.
Still reading, but can't resist the urge to comment on celtuce. Does anyone else think that, when sautéed, it tastes like popcorn? Both me and roommate agree, don't let us down, Serious Eats!
This is amazing
The loaf will run you $2.99, the sausage between $8-11 (you'll only use 1/3rd of it), the pancetta goes for $8.99 a pound (ask for a slice slices, it'll cost you $2-3), the ricotta is $3.99 for a container, the mozzarella costs around $8, get 1/4th pound of each antipasti and you'll spend around $5-6, and the fried eggplant will cost just a few bucks, let's say $3. All of that will add up to about $33, but you'll have tons of leftovers of everything but the bread.
We're just having a little fun, don't take the headline too seriously ;)
Thanks for sharing these fantastic glimpses into New York's food world with us. Excited so see all that comes next.
@Beavis, can you explain how that quote seems to contradict yourself?
In your first comment, you wrote, "Seems to me it's a regular restaurant that exists to make a profit as any other businesses do. It's just being marketed as 'helping the community.'" Where in this article does Dan say Fritzl's exists to help the community? He never does. I never do. You willfully misread what I wrote.
"The purpose" of the restaurant is its reason for existence. Therefore, according to Dan, Fritzl's exists to "make money and give his kids a future."
Charles deserves all the praise it gets. Thanks for mention it. We do limit the list to Bronx restaurants in order to highlight the borough's food.
@DCDreams there are restaurants that operate like that (see, Rockaway's Shore Soup), but at the end of the day businesses are for profit enterprises. I think people who run restaurants and say that it isn't about making money and doing what they love tend to be disingenuous. (Unless they run a not-for-profit like Shore Soup.) No one here is saying it's not gentrification. As far as I'm concerned, by the very act of living in New York, we're all complicit in the process.
Finally, I disagree with the premise that value is determined by raw price alone. That's like saying a basketball player's worth is based on his scoring and rebounding alone. (The sabremetrics of food, anybody?)
Saying something is a good value because it is cheap ignores the human and environmental costs that are a consequence of the cheapness that we, the consumer, benefit from. What's really happening here is that the cost is being displaced from the consumer to the environment, the animal, and the laborers who produce it. Of course I'm talking about foods like hamburgers and steak that should never be cheap to begin with. Raising a cow is expensive and impactful on the environment. That era of cheap meat that we romanticize was unsustainable and destructive.
Is Fritzl's $10 burger, made by a well trained, knowledgeable chef who is getting meat from farmer's who raise their animals more humanely, a better value than the $6.95 chimichurri, made from industrially processed meat, down the street? In my eyes, absolutely.
@BeavisPeters did you read the article? Because Dan never says Fritzl's is anything but a business. That's fantastically clear here: "Hopefully a BYPRODUCT of what I do means giving neighborhood residents jobs and raising their standards of living. That's NOT the purpose of running a restaurant—I want to make some money and give my kid a future."
Dan very clearly conveyed that the restaurant is not a community enterprise.
That's a McDonalds, dude. And they have fantastic milkshakes.
Thanks for that tip, BXGirl! Nice to hear from you again.
@foodandscience burrata always comes in a "pouch" made of mozzarella scraps. I'm using the word rind liberally here.
@Lyco not to my knowledge, no.
@lilac6 it's not listed on the board, but they do have it! Just ask for the burrino, it's one of the two hard cheeses hanging above the counter.
@BeavisPeters not to say that piece of cod isn't pricey, but you do know that the American cod fishery has totally collapsed, right? That restaurants on Martha's Vineyard import their cold from Iceland and elsewhere? Consider the fact that you're complaining about the price of an animal that we've nearly fished to extinction.
Sorry about that. They're $9.50.
I was absolutely infatuated with the mafe at the dearly departed Maryway; to my taste, it was the best in the city. For Bronxites, Saloum is the best substitution I've found.
In Harlem, I really enjoy Keur Coumba.
Dave Cook has extensively documented Manhattan's (and elsewhere's) Senegalese scene.
Dave, I'm pretty sure they're Ghanaian or Nigerian. I say this for three reasons:
A) Banga soup is strongly associated with Nigeria, to my knowledge.
B) Conversely, on the menu, puff puffs were also listed as "Ghanaian donuts." Although, apparently, puff puff is the Nigerian word for this food.
B) Their accents were relatively transparent. You will not overhear the staff speaking with those lovely Francophone accents you do at Senegalese, Guinean, and Malian restaurants.
I do plan on revisiting soon and writing a more complete piece, so I'll ask them.
These classes are focused on cuisines and not skills. You'd use a wok in a Sichuanese class, of course, but you might want to see if Brooklyn Kitchen offers something like that. Kenji has some great stuff on wok cooking right here on SE, too.
That would be the spinach pie!