Our Authors

Inside the Mexican Pantry of New York's Top Pueblan Restaurant

The pantry of Dennise Chavez's Carnitas El Atoradero puts the rest of New York's Mexican kitchens to shame. While the city is home to the largest concentration of Poblanos outside Puebla, it's still difficult to find fresh, quality chilies, herbs, and spices. Here are just a few of the ingredients that go into her jawdropping moles and Pueblan dishes. More

Why the Knish Became New York's Miss Congeniality

"People used to say, 'the streets in New York are paved in gold,'" Laura Silver said to me over the phone. "No they're not. They're paved in knishes." Born in Brooklyn and bred in Queens, Silver is the world's leading authority on the knish, and she knows just how vital it is to Jews'—and New Yorkers'—culinary heritage, even if everyone else forgets about the poor thing. More

Regional Mexican Cuisine: All About Puebla and Central Mexico

What is Poblano cuisine? Meat wrapped in fragrant leaves and roasted underground or braised in tomatoes and tomatillos. Pumpkin seeds used in more ways than you thought possible. A sophisticated bread culture. And of course there's mole, the chocolate-tinged sauce that takes dozens of ingredients and days to make, which, when done right, is a Proustian madeleine of the New World. More

What's it Like to Open a Gentrifying Restaurant?

In conversations about gentrification, small business owners that ring in the changes—the fancy coffee shops and hip art galleries, for instance—are characterized as drivers of social change. But for a certain class of food entrepreneurs, opening a business in a gentrifying neighborhood has less to do with the change you want to make and more to do with where it's possible for you to thrive. More

Arthur Avenue's Calandra Cheese Sells Burrata's More Flavorful Cousin

Calandra's Cheese, the stoic Italian cheese shop, is an Arthur Avenue O.G., one of a few holdouts of a once solely Italian neighborhood that's diversifying every day. It's especially vital for its owner's insistence on quality; unlike other Arthur Avenue bakeries and restaurants, it doesn't rest on its ancestral laurels. The must-buy? Burrino, aged mozzarella stuffed with butter. More

Regional Mexican Cuisine: The Yucatán's Mayan Splendor

@PomeeDG that's an excellent point for conversation. Do you consider chilies to be a mainstay of Sichuan cuisine? Are tomatoes a mainstay of Italian cooking? Yucatan food would change demonstrably w/o sour orange, just like Sichuanese food wouldn't be the same w/o chilies. It doesn't matter where they came from, they're integral now. Cuisine is an exchange. It's constantly evolving.

As for whether sour orange supplanted a similar fruit, that's a good question. Citrus is native to Asia and didn't come to Mexico for some time. But there's plenty of native varieties of fruit in the state and throughout Mexico.

Set Course for Dumpling Galaxy: The Makings of My Favorite Dumplings in NYC

This is an excellent look into what makes an equally excellent place tick.

Robyn Lee Is Leaving Serious Eats a Mere 7 1/2 Years After She Got Here

Bon voyage, Robyn! You are awesome. I will fondly remember the many noises you made over these last three years.

The Ultimate Guide to Buying Italian Ingredients on Arthur Avenue

Thanks, JustinH!

I wouldn't fret about: you're going during the week and it's the summer, meaning most students are gone. You can find parking on side streets pretty easily (no meters!).

The Ultimate Guide to Buying Italian Ingredients on Arthur Avenue

By not taking it too seriously. It's a convenient way of saying, a lot of the Italian-American people you'll see there on sunny days or holidays are coming in from Westchester.

That being said, there's definitely a Westchester accent, rooted in the city accent (particularly Jewish/Italian), that is different than the accent in Connecticut or Maryland, for example.

Meet the Bronx Italian Importer Conquering New York's Restaurant Scene

The Serious Eats Field Guide to Asian Greens

Still reading, but can't resist the urge to comment on celtuce. Does anyone else think that, when sautéed, it tastes like popcorn? Both me and roommate agree, don't let us down, Serious Eats!

Taste Test: The Best Frozen Puff Pastry

The Best Italian Hero on Arthur Avenue is a DIY Sandwich Hack

The loaf will run you $2.99, the sausage between $8-11 (you'll only use 1/3rd of it), the pancetta goes for $8.99 a pound (ask for a slice slices, it'll cost you $2-3), the ricotta is $3.99 for a container, the mozzarella costs around $8, get 1/4th pound of each antipasti and you'll spend around $5-6, and the fried eggplant will cost just a few bucks, let's say $3. All of that will add up to about $33, but you'll have tons of leftovers of everything but the bread.

The Best Italian Hero on Arthur Avenue is a DIY Sandwich Hack

We're just having a little fun, don't take the headline too seriously ;)

What a New York Food Minute Looks Like

Thanks for sharing these fantastic glimpses into New York's food world with us. Excited so see all that comes next.

Video: Bar Bolonat's Einat Admony Wants More Cooks, not Chefs

What's it Like to Open a Gentrifying Restaurant?

@Beavis, can you explain how that quote seems to contradict yourself?

In your first comment, you wrote, "Seems to me it's a regular restaurant that exists to make a profit as any other businesses do. It's just being marketed as 'helping the community.'" Where in this article does Dan say Fritzl's exists to help the community? He never does. I never do. You willfully misread what I wrote.

"The purpose" of the restaurant is its reason for existence. Therefore, according to Dan, Fritzl's exists to "make money and give his kids a future."

The Best Food to Eat Around Yankee Stadium in the Bronx

Charles deserves all the praise it gets. Thanks for mention it. We do limit the list to Bronx restaurants in order to highlight the borough's food.

What's it Like to Open a Gentrifying Restaurant?

@DCDreams there are restaurants that operate like that (see, Rockaway's Shore Soup), but at the end of the day businesses are for profit enterprises. I think people who run restaurants and say that it isn't about making money and doing what they love tend to be disingenuous. (Unless they run a not-for-profit like Shore Soup.) No one here is saying it's not gentrification. As far as I'm concerned, by the very act of living in New York, we're all complicit in the process.

Finally, I disagree with the premise that value is determined by raw price alone. That's like saying a basketball player's worth is based on his scoring and rebounding alone. (The sabremetrics of food, anybody?)

Saying something is a good value because it is cheap ignores the human and environmental costs that are a consequence of the cheapness that we, the consumer, benefit from. What's really happening here is that the cost is being displaced from the consumer to the environment, the animal, and the laborers who produce it. Of course I'm talking about foods like hamburgers and steak that should never be cheap to begin with. Raising a cow is expensive and impactful on the environment. That era of cheap meat that we romanticize was unsustainable and destructive.

Is Fritzl's $10 burger, made by a well trained, knowledgeable chef who is getting meat from farmer's who raise their animals more humanely, a better value than the $6.95 chimichurri, made from industrially processed meat, down the street? In my eyes, absolutely.

@BeavisPeters did you read the article? Because Dan never says Fritzl's is anything but a business. That's fantastically clear here: "Hopefully a BYPRODUCT of what I do means giving neighborhood residents jobs and raising their standards of living. That's NOT the purpose of running a restaurant—I want to make some money and give my kid a future."

Dan very clearly conveyed that the restaurant is not a community enterprise.

The Best Food to Eat Around Yankee Stadium in the Bronx

That's a McDonalds, dude. And they have fantastic milkshakes.

Arthur Avenue's Calandra Cheese Sells Burrata's More Flavorful Cousin

Thanks for that tip, BXGirl! Nice to hear from you again.

@foodandscience burrata always comes in a "pouch" made of mozzarella scraps. I'm using the word rind liberally here.

@Lyco not to my knowledge, no.

Arthur Avenue's Calandra Cheese Sells Burrata's More Flavorful Cousin

@lilac6 it's not listed on the board, but they do have it! Just ask for the burrino, it's one of the two hard cheeses hanging above the counter.

Arthur Avenue's Calandra Cheese Sells Burrata's More Flavorful Cousin

@lilac6 it's not listed on the board, but they do have it! Just ask for the burrino, it's one of the two hard cheeses hanging above the counter.

Brunch at Estela is Delicious But Pricey

@BeavisPeters not to say that piece of cod isn't pricey, but you do know that the American cod fishery has totally collapsed, right? That restaurants on Martha's Vineyard import their cold from Iceland and elsewhere? Consider the fact that you're complaining about the price of an animal that we've nearly fished to extinction.

Find the Bronx's Best Fried Pork Snack Near Yankee Stadium

Sorry about that. They're $9.50.

Brighter, Fresher West African in the Bronx at Patina African Restaurant

I was absolutely infatuated with the mafe at the dearly departed Maryway; to my taste, it was the best in the city. For Bronxites, Saloum is the best substitution I've found.

In Harlem, I really enjoy Keur Coumba.

Dave Cook has extensively documented Manhattan's (and elsewhere's) Senegalese scene.

Brighter, Fresher West African in the Bronx at Patina African Restaurant

Dave, I'm pretty sure they're Ghanaian or Nigerian. I say this for three reasons:

A) Banga soup is strongly associated with Nigeria, to my knowledge.

B) Conversely, on the menu, puff puffs were also listed as "Ghanaian donuts." Although, apparently, puff puff is the Nigerian word for this food.

B) Their accents were relatively transparent. You will not overhear the staff speaking with those lovely Francophone accents you do at Senegalese, Guinean, and Malian restaurants.

I do plan on revisiting soon and writing a more complete piece, so I'll ask them.

The Secrets of Immigrant Cuisines Revealed at League of Kitchens Cooking Classes

These classes are focused on cuisines and not skills. You'd use a wok in a Sichuanese class, of course, but you might want to see if Brooklyn Kitchen offers something like that. Kenji has some great stuff on wok cooking right here on SE, too.

The Secrets of Immigrant Cuisines Revealed at League of Kitchens Cooking Classes

That would be the spinach pie!

Homeward Bound: Chef Floyd Cardoz Returns to India

What if you were given the chance to revisit the place that shaped your entire perception of food? North End Grill chef and Top Chef Masters winner Floyd Cardoz did just that, returning to Goa, India, where he visited his great-grandmother every summer before emigrating to the United States 25 years ago. Here, he shares both his snapshots and his impressions of India's rapidly evolving food culture today. More

Carnitas El Atoradero Serves the Mexican Home Cooking We've Been Waiting For

Until recently, the only way to enjoy owner Denisse "Lina" Chavez's cooking was to eat your picadata while leaning against the narrow store's shelves. Now she has opened up a full restaurant in the former pint-sized Mexicocina space next door. At first glance, the restaurant reads like an basic taqueria, with a menu that mostly lists antojitos and seating for about ten. But take a second look and you'll see that Carnitas El Atoradero is where you go to order the food you never get at your local taqueria. This is the home-style cooking, way beyond the taco, that New York needs. More

Mission Cantina: Danny Bowien's Foray Into Mexican Falls Short

After a few meals at Cantina I can feel the dedication and energy going into the restaurant. But the crushing ordinariness of the food suggests it's not enough. Petite, overstuffed tacos, high on style, are wan in the punch-to-the-gut flavors that made Bowien's name. Housemade Oaxacan cheese, bland as grocery store mozzarella and plated with some useless greens, is head-scratching. The question to ask at this early stage isn't "is it good," but rather, "would we be talking about it if it were owned by someone besides Danny Bowien?" More

The Food Lab: The Science of the Best Chocolate Chip Cookies

I've never been able to get a chocolate chip cookie exactly the way I like. I'm talking chocolate cookies that are barely crisp around the edges with a buttery, toffee-like crunch that transitions into a chewy, moist center that bends like caramel, rich with butter and big pockets of melted chocolate. I made it my goal to test each and every element from ingredients to cooking process, leaving no chocolate chip unturned in my quest for the best. 32 pounds of flour, over 100 individual tests, and 1,536 cookies later, I had my answers. More

Equipment: 9 Essential Pots and Pans

My personal "essentials" lists evolve slowly over time based on not only minor refinements in selection or new product availability, but also on my own cooking style. It's impossible for me to tell you that the pots and pans that I use the most will be the same as the pots and pans you'll use the most. But I can tell you this: I cook a lot, and I cook a wide variety of things, and with these pots and pans in my arsenal, I never find myself saying, "man, I wish I just had [insert pan X here]. Nearly every recipe on this site can be cooked in a kitchen equipped with these bad boys, so if you or a loved one has been extra nice this year, listen up! More

Paulie Gee on Belief, Baltimore, and Being Your Own Boss (Part 1)

Paulie Gee's done plenty of interviews about his rise and he's even answered questions directly from Slice'rs, but he's rarely as candid as he was when he opened up to us about his amazing journey from Corporate IT Guy to Brooklyn Pizza Legend. There's a lot of pizza talk to be sure. So much, in fact, that we'll be running our interview in segments. So keep an eye out for part two next week; in the meantime, here's Paulie on the joys of opening a restaurant, the importance of hiring locally, and why he thinks more people ought to open their own business. More

Serious Entertaining: A New England Seafood Dinner

I was born in Boston and was raised New York as a kid before going back to live in Boston for another 10 years during and after college. Whenever convenient, I like to consider myself a New Englander. That time is usually in the summer, when the rocky beaches are at their drizzliest and the coastal clam shacks fire up the boilers and fryers.

I still make it a point to make at least one or two New England road trips every summer so that I can get my seafood fix. But even when I can't get up to Yankee-land, I'll do my best to get my fix right at home. You can do it too with these recipes for clam chowder, lobster rolls, blueberry pie, and more.


Street Food: The Red Hook Food Vendors Return this Weekend

On Saturdays and Sundays from April to late October, street food and Latin American food lovers of all stripes flock to Red Hook Park's ball fields to savor foods from the legendary Red Hook Food Vendors. Since 1974, vendors have operated on the edges of the park on Clinton and Bay Street. But this year is different. In the words of veteran vendor Marcos Lainez from El Olomega Pupusas, "This is the beginning and it could be the end." More

The Nasty Bits: Chopped Liver

The chopped liver at Russ and Daughter's is sweeter than most. It gets its sweetness from the onions. Of course all recipes for chopped liver call for sautéed onions to be mixed in with the liver purée, but what distinguishes the onions used at Russ and Daughters is just how very sweet they taste. These are onions that get cooked for a long time, I suspect. More

Food For Thought: Xiao Long Bao and Authenticity in Food

When considering foods eaten out of context—that is, foods eaten in a country or region that they do not originate from—the question of authenticity and what it means to be "authentic" is always a vexing one. Take, for example, Xiao Long Bao—the soup-filled dumplings hailing from Shanghai that have since been popularized throughout the world. Even referring to them as "dumplings" is enough to set off some food scholars who insist that they are distinct from what we traditionally classify as dumplings. The question is, what does it mean to be authentic and more precisely, is it even possible for authenticity to be preserved across the many barriers of language mapping, social custom, and regional tastes? More