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From Recipes

Seriously Asian: Thai Curries, Part One: Yellow

Hi Dcarl1, there isn't any fish sauce in the curry paste recipes - only shrimp paste or anchovies as a substitute. I'm not sure where you're seeing fish sauce listed as an ingredient in the paste recipe.

Fresh turmeric root is terribly difficult to track down; otherwise I would certainly use it! Also, my palate isn't as sensitive to the "mustiness" that you describe.

From Recipes

The Nasty Bits: Turkey Neck Gumbo

NWCajun, I'm still not seeing the problem w/ chicken sausage - if it's appropriately juicy and fatty, with a nicely spiced flavor - well, then I'm happy :) Let me just say that I am not in principle opposed to chicken, just its general application. I don’t think that I’ve had more than one chicken breast in the past 2 years, and that was from a well-raised chicken that I brined myself.

Duck Tongues! Now we're talking. You're deep-frying them, right?

From Recipes

Seriously Asian: Thai Curries, Part Two: Red and Green

LiveFreeOrDine: I'm so glad that you tried the pastes! I pick up kaffir lime and kaffir lime leaves from a Thai/Vietnamese shop In Chinatown, Manhattan. Sadly, I've not found them in Chinese grocery stores. Kaffir lime rind can also be found dried, in which case you would soak them in water before use. If you really get into Thai curry pastes, it may not be a bad idea to get a pack of the dried rind from a specialty source online.

The peppers will keep in your fridge for a week or so without any noticeable change in quality. I've been using them when one of my Mexican recipes calls for a jalapeno pepper, and with great success! Also, if you happen to run low on the dried red peppers, you can substitute the bird's eye chilies in a pinch. They'd also be great in gumbo - I tossed in a couple during preliminary trials of my gumbo.


From Serious Eats: New York

Opening Soon: The Meat Hook at Brooklyn Kitchen

QueenAlli: The Meathook will be getting its meat from places like Fleisher's butcher shop in upstate NY. Fleisher's, in turn, has a commitment to only using well-treated, pasture-raised animals:

http://www.fleishers.com/meats-animals.htm

In addition to Fleisher's, the Meathook is also using other similarly-minded sources. I'm sure that once they've settled into their new home at the Brooklyn Kitchen Labs, you'll be able to learn more about that.

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Recent Posts

From Recipes

Seriously Asian: Thai Curries, Part Three

From Serious Eats: New York

Wednesday at Paradou: Offal Tasting Menu

From Recipes

The Nasty Bits: Turkey Neck Gumbo

From Recipes

Seriously Asian: Thai Curries, Part Two: Red and Green

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From Serious Eats

Snapshots from Italy: Persimmon Perfection

From Recipes

The Nasty Bits: Pig's Ears Two Ways

From Serious Eats: New York

The Crab Pot: Crustacean Addiction

From Recipes

The Nasty Bits: Southern Fried Gizzards

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Recent Comments | Response to Comments

From Recipes

Seriously Asian: Thai Curries, Part One: Yellow

Hi Dcarl1, there isn't any fish sauce in the curry paste recipes - only shrimp paste or anchovies as a substitute. I'm not sure where you're seeing fish sauce listed as an ingredient in the paste recipe.

Fresh turmeric root is terribly difficult to track down; otherwise I would certainly use it! Also, my palate isn't as sensitive to the "mustiness" that you describe.

From Recipes

The Nasty Bits: Turkey Neck Gumbo

NWCajun, I'm still not seeing the problem w/ chicken sausage - if it's appropriately juicy and fatty, with a nicely spiced flavor - well, then I'm happy :) Let me just say that I am not in principle opposed to chicken, just its general application. I don’t think that I’ve had more than one chicken breast in the past 2 years, and that was from a well-raised chicken that I brined myself.

Duck Tongues! Now we're talking. You're deep-frying them, right?

From Recipes

Seriously Asian: Thai Curries, Part Two: Red and Green

LiveFreeOrDine: I'm so glad that you tried the pastes! I pick up kaffir lime and kaffir lime leaves from a Thai/Vietnamese shop In Chinatown, Manhattan. Sadly, I've not found them in Chinese grocery stores. Kaffir lime rind can also be found dried, in which case you would soak them in water before use. If you really get into Thai curry pastes, it may not be a bad idea to get a pack of the dried rind from a specialty source online.

The peppers will keep in your fridge for a week or so without any noticeable change in quality. I've been using them when one of my Mexican recipes calls for a jalapeno pepper, and with great success! Also, if you happen to run low on the dried red peppers, you can substitute the bird's eye chilies in a pinch. They'd also be great in gumbo - I tossed in a couple during preliminary trials of my gumbo.


From Serious Eats: New York

Opening Soon: The Meat Hook at Brooklyn Kitchen

QueenAlli: The Meathook will be getting its meat from places like Fleisher's butcher shop in upstate NY. Fleisher's, in turn, has a commitment to only using well-treated, pasture-raised animals:

http://www.fleishers.com/meats-animals.htm

In addition to Fleisher's, the Meathook is also using other similarly-minded sources. I'm sure that once they've settled into their new home at the Brooklyn Kitchen Labs, you'll be able to learn more about that.

From Recipes

The Nasty Bits: Turkey Neck Gumbo

Hi nasty bits lovers,

As always, thank you for the heartwarming comments! I would love nothing more than to write an entire book about offal. My hope is that if I keep writing and doing what I’m doing, the shape of the book will become clearer. In the meantime, it’s very encouraging to see that more than five people would buy it.

Sorry for the backlog of questions; I am up to my ears in ears!

Pfooti: I served my turkey necks as-is, and watched as my guests happily gnawed the meat and tendon off the bone. That being said, you could take the meat off as well – turkey necks are large enough such that most of the flesh could be de-boned. To do so, prior to adding them to the gumbo, leave the turkeys necks whole instead of chopping them into 2 or 3-inch sections.

NWcajun: I understand that depending on what cook you ask, andouille is either the traditionally smoked pork sausage with its distinctive seasonings, or it can be any type of sausage that is “Cajun/andouille” in spirit. That is to say, the links have the cayenne, thyme, mace, cloves, allspice, and majoram that make andouille taste like andouille. Clearly, you fall into the former camp. Having made gumbo with all sorts of additions (crab, shrimp, fried chicken, pork neck, etc), I’m not as devoted to the type of protein so much as the base of roux. (Feel free to reprimand me, but I’m pretty stubborn myself about what makes gumbo a gumbo!)

cellophane: I have NEVER tried smoked turkey tails. Wow. I’m sold. See? So many new parts to try! I can’t remember the last time I had a steak.

With regards to the issue of roux, I’m glad to see a healthy debate about proper procedure – certainly the kind of discussion one would expect from such a legendary, timeless stew. If I make another batch of turkey gumbo from leftover turkey after Thanksgiving, I will give the other methods a try and report back.

From Recipes

Seriously Asian: Thai Curries, Part Two: Red and Green

KoalaisnotaBear: Yes, it's variation - If you add something like thinly sliced onions, you'll want to sweat or brown them prior to adding the water and coconut milk.

Camberwell Now: The tinge of the paste will depend on your usage of the cilantro - if you only use the roots, it'll end up brownish. If you use the stems, the paste will become greener - plus, you have to use quite a few more of the stems than the root, as the root is more pungent.

Cissa: You'll just need a few tablespoons of the paste! Sorry - should've specified. It's really to your taste - for a serving of 4 people, 4 to 5 tablespoons ought to do it.

ncsuemme: I'm not sure I understand the question - you mean, leaving the pastes out to pickle? Let me know what you mean.

From Recipes

Seriously Asian: Thai Curries, Part Two: Red and Green

Hi guys:

To clarify: The coconut cream specified in these recipes is simply the thick cream that collects at the surface of an undisturbed can of coconut milk. Just skim it off the surface - no extra shopping required! I talked about it in the first post but I should've been clearer here. Thanks!

From Recipes

The Nasty Bits: Lamb Tripe Stew

Ah yes, the classic offal whoodunit.

I wish I had a thrilling end to the story, guys. But alas, it was only my well-meaning roommate who assumed that someone had mistakenly left the oven on very low instead of turning it off.

From Recipes

Gluten-Free Tuesday: Millet

"Truly good tofu, however, is made fresh that day, still warm, silky on the spoon, and something else entirely than what you have in your head."

I'm not sure about that, gluten free girl! Packaged tofu is what everyone has access to, and it's delicious when cooked properly. And not all delicious tofu is silky - some of it is firm, some fried, some stinky b/c it's been fermented....all wonderful-tasting! And not all tofu is warm - some of it is ice cold and served in a pudding. Geez - feel like I need a Venn diagram :)

Great post, though. I love experimenting w/ grains b/c it's an easy way to experience different textures.

From Serious Eats

The Best Use of Butter: Kouign Amann Pastries

Erin, that slice of kouign amann looks incredible! Why don't the pictures in the recipes listed on Lebowitz's site possess the same kind of layering? They all look a little lumpy and dense.

From Recipes

Seriously Asian: Thai Curries, Part One: Yellow

squidopus: The cayenne wasn't a substitute for curry powder; it was an addition to make the sauce more orange for Halloween :) I do add fish sauce to a lot of Thai curries, but that essence of lobster was so incredibly strong, I just didn't see the need.

From Serious Eats: New York

FergusStock at The Breslin

Why bother with the pig's eyeballs? Because they are DELICIOUS. I just want to emphasize that - the meat in the socket was extremely tender and gelatinous, like a braised trotter. Soooo....that's WHY :)

I don't want to get into bugs and testicles right now, but I have very similar sentiments about those as well! More on that some other time!

From Recipes

Seriously Asian: Thai Curries, Part One: Yellow

plazmaorb: Not all Thai curry pastes employ fish sauce. I certainly use it sometimes later on in a recipe, but a literature review suggests that most yellow curry pastes, in fact, do not have fish sauce.

From Recipes

Seriously Asian: Korean Soondubu Jjigae (Soft Tofu Stew)

Designruby: Yes, use your enameled cast iron. Whenever I am serving guests and I run out of tofu pots, I bust out my little Descowares and they do the trick. I wouldn't use a raw cast iron pot, though - that spicy broth would wear down your patina.

From Recipes

Seriously Asian: Korean Soondubu Jjigae (Soft Tofu Stew)

NWcajun, you're extremely welcome. I am jealous of your being in Oregon. Forget ribeye! You could put geoduck and dungeness into your soondubu! I have always wanted to catch dungeness and dig for my own geoduck.

From Recipes

The Nasty Bits: Dashi-Simmered Eel

AL, river eels are fantastic stir-fried w/ yellow chives. It's one of my favorites - a classic Shanghainese topping for noodles.

From Recipes

The Nasty Bits: Confit of Pork Tongue with Warm Lentil Salad

http://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/2009/07/the-nasty-bits-tongue-lengua-en-salsa-verde.html

BananaMonkey, I did a recipe on beef tongue way back when. On beef tongue, the outer layer is really thick and comes right off after it's been stewed.

Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall has some really great advice and recipes for beef tongue in his River Cottage Meatbook. He recommends pickling the tongue for a few days before proceeding with the recipe.

And yes, your suspicions are correct! Tongue is really intense - a lot beefier and porkier, when compared to the flesh. It's a fatty organ w/ plenty of flavor.

From Recipes

The Nasty Bits: Confit of Pork Tongue with Warm Lentil Salad

Kenji, I peel my beef tongues but not the pork. I agree that the outer casing is tough and not particularly palatable on beef tongues, but I don't think the casing for pork tongues is all that noticeable after confiting.

Also, I like to leave the casing on pork tongues for the exact reason you take it off. I really enjoy the shape of the tongue, and slicing it with the casing on preserves the offal aesthetic. Beauty in the eye of the beholder, I guess!

From Recipes

Seriously Asian: Korean Soondubu Jjigae (Soft Tofu Stew)

Jennalynn: That's right - add the soondubu paste.

harmonica: Do you have a heat diffuser? It's a plate you can use to temper the heat of the electric stove. Mine looks something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I1WO8C/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_3?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0000X6ESO&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0PQNMQZ36TV1FWJYPK5Y

I have a gas stove, but clay pot experts recommend using a heat diffuser on top of an electric stove when cooking with clay pots.

From Recipes

The Nasty Bits: Stomach-Stuffed Arepas

Dcarl1 - You can find stomach at most Chinese markets. It's usually sitting in a bin behind the butcher's counter, as opposed to being sold pre-packaged.

From Recipes

Seriously Asian: Korean Soondubu Jjigae (Soft Tofu Stew)

Hi guys, thanks for all the tofu love!

Piccola: I make vegetarian versions of soondobu ALL the time to recover from my other meat-laden meals. I still use meat stock, but you could easily replace with vegetable stock, or even water.

From Recipes

Seriously Asian: Burmese Chicken-Coconut Soup

Lachlan, your account of the dish sounds great. Often one of the toppings for this dish is fried noodles, which sop up the soup and take on a wonderfully chewy texture. Sounds like we're dealing with different manifestations of the same dish.

From Recipes

The Nasty Bits: Stomach-Stuffed Arepas

BananaM: I can understand your hesitation to work with the raw stomach. Really, though, give it a try:

1. Bring that pot of water to boil.
2. Plop the whole stomach into the water (You don't even have to rinse the stomach first)
3. After 2-3 minutes, retrieve the stomach and pour the sullied water down the drain.

Essentially, there's not too much handling of the stomach prior to stewing it. After you've parboiled it, the stomach is not as wrinkly either. I think the smells can be off-putting, but I guarantee that if you do it once, you'll get the hang of it.

That's probably not the answer you were looking for, but I believe you can do it!

From Recipes

The Nasty Bits: Stomach-Stuffed Arepas

tripe |trīp| noun 1 the first or second stomach of a cow or other ruminant used as food.

ruminant |ˈroōmənənt| noun 1 an even-toed ungulate mammal that chews the cud regurgitated from its rumen. The ruminants comprise the cattle, sheep, antelopes, deer, giraffes, and their relatives. • Suborder Ruminantia, order Artiodactyla: six families.

From Serious Eats: New York

Dim Sum at Ocean Jewel in Flushing, Queens

avisualperson: MSG levels were ok - not too bad, but then again, we didn't order a lot of savory dishes that came with soups and stocks, so I can't comment on their general use of MSG.

Good question by gustoct: This was actually my first dim sum meal in Flushing in 6 years, so I'd welcome more recommendations!

From Recipes

The Nasty Bits: Turkey Neck Gumbo

I give, I give!!! If being served a juicy, fatty, tasty chicken sausage in my gumbo is the worst thing that happens to me, it’s a pretty good day. I just don’t want you going all healthy on us. Another problem has presented its’ self, I’ve been calling around and I can’t find turkey necks. I’m in Oregon where we’re looking at a cold wet weekend and making gumbo while I nibbled on duck tongue sounded like a hell of a plan. Am I frying the tongues? You bet.

From Recipes

Seriously Asian: Thai Curries, Part One: Yellow

ChiChi - Oh - I misunderstood, someone in the comments mentioned that she expected to see fish sauce in the paste. I guess I misunderstood your response.

I find turmeric root in my local regular old supermarket (lucky I know!), but elsewhere I can find it in Lao markets, and sometimes also at big Asian marts like 99 Ranch. I'm surprised it's hard to find in NYC, but maybe out in Queens there'd be more availability of it.

From Recipes

Seriously Asian: Thai Curries, Part One: Yellow

Very nice series - I love your writing! A few minor clarifications though...

1. No Thai curry pastes have fish sauce in the paste (although they almost all do in the curry itself once it is made up into its saucy goodness). What pastes often have is shrimp paste, which adds a wonderful umaminess and roundness. I buy Thai brands, as the others (Filipino, etc) are stronger and not right for Thai cooking.

2. I've never seen this made with ground turmeric and don't think that's traditional for any Thai curry. What is often used, and what I use is fresh turmeric root. It's aromatic, fragrant, and bright orange. The dried, while lovely for Indian curries gives a mustiness that's not quite right for Thai.

But these are small quibbles - I'm thrilled you are getting people excited about making Thai curry pastes. I love them so much!

From Recipes

Seriously Asian: Thai Curries, Part Two: Red and Green

Nice series! I've been cooking Thai food for years and find great satisfaction in pounding away at a curry paste to release its fragrance. Note that kaffir limes freeze well - just pop them in a ziploc bag whole and stash for a year or more. I always have some in the freezer as they are seasonal, and even here in CA not always easy to find in the off-season. The dried rind is a very good pantry item. Kaffir lime leaves are quite easy to find in CA - even many supermarkets have them here, but limes are another matter entirely.

From Recipes

The Nasty Bits: Turkey Neck Gumbo

Chichi, Don’t get me wrong, what you made is definitely a gumbo, I’m sure a damn fine gumbo. While reprimand is too strong a word, I do still want to give you grief about “chicken andouille” . You celebrate the pigs ears, tail and head and then use a chicken based sausage. It just seems incongruous. Love your stuff, just wanted to give you a little shit. By the way, I found a source for duck tongues and hope to eat some this week end. Keep up the good fight, Al W

From Serious Eats: New York

Dim Sum at Ocean Jewel in Flushing, Queens

Chinese food in NYC used to be amazing... why is it not still? Statistically there are more Chinese-born inhabitants in New York than any other major metropolitan area... but it seems to be universally agreed that the food is on the decline.

http://www.migrationinformation.org/DataHub/FB_maps/State_Metro_ACS2008_Chinese_FB.pdf

From Recipes

Seriously Asian: Thai Curries, Part Two: Red and Green

Oh yes... and what should I do with the extra 40 birdseye peppers I ended up getting?

From Recipes

Seriously Asian: Thai Curries, Part Two: Red and Green

I made each curry paste today, and tried out the scallops tonight. The dish was fantastic! I also got quite a thrill from cracking the coconut.

Tomorrow I may have to see if I can find an eggplant suitable for one person.

A few notes: I wasn't able to find a kaffir lime; are they perhaps seasonal? I went to an H Mart, which seemed to have every other conceivable ingredient, and also to a much smaller local store.

Also, I tried making the red curry paste in my blender, but it was nowhere near manly enough to handle that task. Frozen bananas, yes; shallots, apparently not. The food processor worked fine, though, even if it is a bit of an antique.

In any event, this is a fantastic set of recipes. Thank you!

From Recipes

Seriously Asian: Thai Curries, Part Two: Red and Green

Hey, I was wondering if this curry could be canned to be preserved? I assume it can be frozen, but I wonder if those baby 2 and 4oz jars might be great to can these pastes up.

From Recipes

Seriously Asian: Thai Curries, Part Two: Red and Green

How much green curry paste is used in the scallop recipe? The whole amount made above?

From Recipes

Seriously Asian: Thai Curries, Part Two: Red and Green

How do you get the green curry paste so green? I attempted this with all the ingredients listed here and it ended up looking like some unappealing brownish muck, not even remotely green. Too much or too little of something?

From Recipes

Seriously Asian: Thai Curries, Part Two: Red and Green

(Maybe also a low-fat version, given that laksa is the Asian cuisine calorie-equivalent of a six-scoop hot fudge sundae!)

From Recipes

Seriously Asian: Thai Curries, Part Two: Red and Green

Chichi

In Australia, Thai green chicken curry is almost a national dish (with curry laksa not far behind!)

I've always been taught to brown the aromatics before adding the coconut milk - is this just a variation on a theme?

Also, a great recipe for laksa would be very much appreciated!

From Recipes

The Nasty Bits: Lamb Tripe Stew

I have to say that's seriously off putting.

From Recipes

Gluten-Free Tuesday: Millet

My mother has been gluten free for as long as I can remember, and she would always make millet growing up. One trick she taught me now that I am cooking on my own, is to use millet flour instead of regular flour to dredge chicken and fish with before pan-frying. It actually creates a much crispier finish than regular flour, and even though I am not gluten free, I have stuck with it! Try it with this Lightly Fried Tilapia with Caper Brown Butter and you'll see what I mean!

From Recipes

Seriously Asian: Thai Curries, Part One: Yellow

Perhaps it's always because I buy my curry paste in chinatown for my Thai Green Curry Chicken, but I never realized spices like ground tumeric, cumin, and coriander were that popular in Thai cuisine. Are they used in many other dishes besides curries? What is the history behind yellow curry in Thailand?

From Recipes

Seriously Asian: Thai Curries, Part One: Yellow

You make very nice food. I've browsed the comments after I made my previous post. Very good to read simple and complex so perfectly executed.
I hope you keep it coming.

From Recipes

Seriously Asian: Thai Curries, Part One: Yellow

Excellent work!...Wonderful article...Thanks for the good stuff, Chichi Wang!

From Recipes

Gluten-Free Tuesday: Millet

Oops - poor rice farmers during the feudal era...not present day rice farmers.

From Recipes

Gluten-Free Tuesday: Millet

I read that millet was what poor rice farmers could afford to eat in Japan, if they could afford even to eat that. I didn't realize it was still looked down upon.

The only millet I've ever had was millet jelly, a chewy Japanese candy wrapped with an edible rice wrapper and came with a little toy. I didn't know it was readily available. While it is grown in the Midwest, I wonder if it's available where I am in the Midwest/Northeast. I'd love to check it out. Thanks for the article and recipe.

From Recipes

Gluten-Free Tuesday: Millet

I have to pipe up because the first time I cooked millet, I really botched it (maybe overcooked?) and then stayed away from it for a few years. Then I tried it again for some recipe, got it right, and now I love it. (I think I usually prefer it chilled or cooled and then reheated for some reason--it never seems quite right to me straight out of the pot.) So, if you try millet and you don't like it...try try again!

From Recipes

Seriously Asian: Thai Curries, Part One: Yellow

If you were to replace the lobster with chicken, would you cook the cubes of chicken first? Fully cook them or partially cook them? I'm imagining stir frying the chicken cubes and then letting them simmer in flavor from the yellow curry. Right?

From Serious Eats

The Best Use of Butter: Kouign Amann Pastries

You just enjoyed Montreal's sunday beat : start with brunch at 11 and follow with a slice of Kouign Amann at 4 !

From Recipes

Seriously Asian: Korean Soondubu Jjigae (Soft Tofu Stew)

I love my Korean clay pots (use mine for kimchi Jjigae). They make "one pot" cooking easy.

From Serious Eats: New York

FergusStock at The Breslin

I'm sure pig's eyes are edible, but why bother? I know I'm man enough, but I just don't see the point of testing our mettle by eating bugs, eyeballs, Fugu, or boars testicles just to prove that we can.

That said, April made us an awesome dish of cod sperm at John Dory, and we loved it.

Recent Posts

From Recipes

Seriously Asian: Thai Curries, Part Three

From Serious Eats: New York

Wednesday at Paradou: Offal Tasting Menu

From Recipes

The Nasty Bits: Turkey Neck Gumbo

From Recipes

Seriously Asian: Thai Curries, Part Two: Red and Green

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From Serious Eats: New York

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From Recipes

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From Recipes

Seriously Asian: Thai Curries, Part One: Yellow

From Recipes

The Nasty Bits: Confit of Pork Tongue with Warm Lentil Salad

From Recipes

Seriously Asian: Korean Soondubu Jjigae (Soft Tofu Stew)

From Recipes

The Nasty Bits: Stomach-Stuffed Arepas

From Serious Eats: New York

Dim Sum at Ocean Jewel in Flushing, Queens

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The Nasty Bits: Crisp Fried Pig's Ears

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From Serious Eats: New York

FergusStock at The Breslin

From Recipes

Seriously Asian: Burmese Chicken-Coconut Soup

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From Recipes

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A Full Side of Beef with Master Butcher Rudi Weid

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New York Culinary Experience: Q&A with Dan Barber

From Serious Eats: New York

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Recent Favorites

From Serious Eats

Snapshots from Italy: Persimmon Perfection

From Recipes

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From Serious Eats: New York

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From Recipes

The Nasty Bits: Southern Fried Gizzards

From Serious Eats: New York

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From Recipes

Seriously Asian: In a Pickle

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About Chichi Wang

Website:

Location: New York

About: On an ideal day, I like to eat about every 2 hours, just grazing from one delicious thing to the next. I am deeply devoted to my Lodge cast iron skillets, which are slick with years of duck fat, and my Descoware pots, which I found in a rummage sale.

Favorite foods: Crab of any sort; duck neck and gizzard confit; Gaufres de Liege waffles; persimmons; Japanese rice snacks; veal sweetbreads; hazelnut gelato; my mother's wontons.

Last bite on earth: Homemade pasta, topped liberally with truffles.