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The Food Lab: Turkey Stuffed Turkey
@velcerick: Links fixed. Thanks for the heads-up!
Worst Meal This Year: Lucy's Cantina Royale
@finewinendine: Me too.
Watch It with Us: 'Top Chef Las Vegas,' Ep. 12
All right, bets? ... Brian?
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Recent Posts
Robert LaValva on the New Amsterdam Market
Posted by Carey Jones, November 20, 2009 at 12:30 PM
Smörgåsboard: Polenta Budino, Chicken Gizzards
Posted by Carey Jones, November 20, 2009 at 9:00 AM
The Whole Hog at Joseph Leonard's 'Cochon Sundays'
Posted by Carey Jones, November 19, 2009 at 12:30 PM
Smörgåsboard: Sheep's Milk Ricotta, Kimchi and Pork Dumpling Soup
Posted by Carey Jones, November 19, 2009 at 9:00 AM
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Recent Favorites
Raising the Bar: Solid Bar Bites at Bar Stuzzichini
Posted by Tia Kim, November 19, 2009 at 1:00 PM
Meet & Eat: Amy Thompson, Lucy's Whey
Posted by Laren Spirer, November 19, 2009 at 2:30 PM
Worst Meal This Year: Lucy's Cantina Royale
Posted by Carey Jones, November 18, 2009 at 5:00 PM
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Recent Comments | Response to Comments
The Food Lab: Turkey Stuffed Turkey
@velcerick: Links fixed. Thanks for the heads-up!
Worst Meal This Year: Lucy's Cantina Royale
@finewinendine: Me too.
Watch It with Us: 'Top Chef Las Vegas,' Ep. 12
All right, bets? ... Brian?
Watch It with Us: 'Top Chef Las Vegas,' Ep. 12
Thomas Keller is ruthless... but I love it.
Watch It with Us: 'Top Chef Las Vegas,' Ep. 12
Votes for "fan favorite"? There's no Fabio this season....
Watch It with Us: 'Top Chef Las Vegas,' Ep. 12
Thrilled that Jennifer is back--her dish looked spectacular.
Worst Meal This Year: Lucy's Cantina Royale
@Eating the Road and Carioca: That's the amazing thing about Robyn's photographs. They make the food look better than it tastes... in fact, they often make the food look better than it does with the naked eye!
Worst Meal This Year: Lucy's Cantina Royale
@John C.: Feel free to report back.
@travpard: I can't count the number of guy friends I had in college who went to Hooters "for the wings." I'll give 'em the pitchers of beer and eye candy, but I refuse to accept that anyone heads there for the food.
Wednesday at Paradou: Offal Tasting Menu
@paulandpaul: $40 for a 4-course Prix Fixe, now listed in the entry. Thanks!
The Making of the 'Uovo in Raviolo' at Manhattan's SD26
@mattx52: I didn't mean to suggest that Marcattilii had invented the dish, only that it was he who initially brought it to San Domenico, and it was a dish he was very much identified with.
Chocolate Chip Cookie Championship: The Midtown(ish) Edition
@hightemp: Interesting. For the record, ours came from 37th and 7th.
That's part of the reason we wanted a two-round taste test. If a cookie isn't consistent, multiple tastings put them at a disadvantage. The best cookie is not only fantastic on first tasting, but fantastic on a return visit. We'll see how Pret fares in the finals!
Chocolate Chip Cookie Championship: The Midtown(ish) Edition
@kathryn: Nope, we're sticking to bakeries and other take-out spots for this competition.
Brooklyn Star Brunch: The South Has Risen Again in Williamsburg
Yes, it's pretty hard to enjoy a meal at Brooklyn Star without getting airlifted out afterwards. But very, very worth it.
Butchering A Whole Lamb, By Slow Foods NYC
@LiveToEat: As always, we appreciate the feedback!
Butchering A Whole Lamb, By Slow Foods NYC
*would not appear on the front page.
Butchering A Whole Lamb, By Slow Foods NYC
@bettyb and others: We believed that this was an interesting look at how an animal most of the world eats is broken down into its components. While we didn't believe the picture of the whole lamb to be offensive, after we received the first two complaints, we immediately moved it after the jump so that it would not appear on the same page. The post is titled "Butchering A Whole Lamb," giving some indication of the photos that appear within.
Chocolate Chip Cookie Championship: The Uptown Edition
@Koreanita: Yes, per the footnote, JT will appear in a future round.
Chocolate Chip Cookie Championship: The Uptown Edition
@HeartofGlass: Well, these are six-ounce cookies, whereas the standard Toll House size—say, the cookie that one of those break-apart refrigerated doughs will give you—is more like one ounce. Basically, unless it's your birthday and you're skipping the cake, I wouldn't advise eating a Levain cookie alone. Even half a cookie leaves you with that unpleasant "Wow, I just ate an enormous cookie" feeling.
What The Yankees Ate Before The World Series Win
@redfish and lemonfair: Yes, this is a scaled-down version. The intent is to provide the recipe, not to provide the scale that could feed an entire baseball team.
Mix It Up: The Bubbly Scribe at Raines Law Room
Apologies, the number given was incorrect; the bar does not have a phone number.
Taste Test: Frozen Apple Pies
It was a little sweeter than I like pie to be, but man, that Marie Callenders was good. If I hadn't known it was frozen, I probably wouldn't have guessed.
What A $47,221 Lunch Looks Like
@Peggasus: Yeah, the $30 asparagus, $7.50 espresso, and $9 cappuccino made me wince more than the wine prices.... if you buy wine that pricey, you know what you're getting into.
Neighborhood Favorites: Miriam Restaurant and Wine Bar, Israeli Goodness in Park Slope
@morley: Yes, all the eggs shown here are poached.
Sandwich Alley: New York's West Village Block of Sandwich Deliciousness
@wburg913: Didn't forget it! (In fact, we stopped by Grey Dog during our visit.) But we kept incredibly strict parameters on Sandwich Alley. Precisely one block, all with storefronts ON Bleecker (in the case of Bleecker Street Pizza, it's on the corner on the in-bounds side of the street). Once you wander outside the boundaries, there's just too much to include.
The Food Lab: Turkey Stuffed Turkey
I think I'm going to go for this, but there's one problem. I have to have drumsticks for my dad. So I'm thinking I'll get a couple of turkey legs to cook along side the bird. Any tips on working out the timing? Maybe start the legs a little ahead of the stuffed breasts?
The Food Lab: Turkey Stuffed Turkey
I don't understand - why would anyone prefer a turkey over a suckling pig?
Worst Meal This Year: Lucy's Cantina Royale
I'm sure you must feel you had it coming (I should've known, etc), I'm happy you chose to out them. I thumbed through my Zagat last week, checking my experiences against the ratings. I got several attacks of apoplexy. How could these anonymous morons rate this place or that one so highly? But Zagat is a democracy, and opinions are culled, and even dare I say, interpreted from many opinions. Grand Sichuan 9th Ave, one I especially hated for precipitously declining food and offensive servers, got raves. Bar Stuzzichini, one of the finest affordable Sicilian kitchens, passed for good, when after ten visits, I found to be stupendous.
We can all agree on one thing: My stomach and I have been friends too long to pull a thing like that on it..
The Food Lab: Turkey Stuffed Turkey
@Aya
You're right - there was one year when the turducken was moist, but that took a heck of a lot of work to get it that way.
Short version:
The problem: chicken is inside duck is inside turkey. Chicken needs to cook to 145, duck is better at 125, turkey needs to be 145.
Solution:
1. Bone out chicken, stuff, wrap in cheesecloth, poach until 145.
2. Bone out duck. Stuff with cooked chicken. Wrap in cheesecloth, poach until 125.
3. bone out turkey, stuff with duck stuffed with chicken, sew up, roast in low oven until 145. Remove from oven and rest
4. Roast in hot oven until brown and crisp.
5. Carve and serve.
See? Pain in the butt.
@KevinB
The problem with the stuffing is that even if you precook it, juices from the turkey drip into it while the turkey is roasting, so you still need to get it to come up to at least 145 before you can pull the turkey out, which means taking the turkey a little higher.
Of course, as always, if you've been doing something for years and are happy with the results, then that's all that matters! It's a heck of a lot easier than all this rigmarole I put my bird through anyway...
The Food Lab: Turkey Stuffed Turkey
I never have to go to these lengths, and I still end up with moist white meat, fully cooked dark meat, and an honest-to-God stuffing. Two simple steps:
I make a stuffing out of pork sausage, celery, apples, bread, and spices. My simple solution to bacteria? Cook the sausage before you mix it in the stuffing. Problem solved - the stuffing still sucks up lots of flavour from the bird (and my recipe makes a ton, so we end up with dressing as well, which is still good, but definitely tastes different) but it's fully cooked.
Second step: soak a triple (at least) layer of cheesecloth in oil, oil the breast, and then place the cheesecloth over the breast. After the first 45 minutes of cooking, baste every 20-30 minutes, paying particular attention to the breast. This means basting about 6-8 times, depending, for 2-3 minutes a time - 12 to 24 minutes total, which is a lot less than the time needed to dismember or debone the bird in the methods above. For the last half hour, carefully remove the cheesecloth so the skin can brown nicely. Don't just pull it off, as that might tear the skin underneath (hence the importance of oiling the breast before applying the cloth).
You end up with a beautiful, Rockwell-type bird, with a moist juicy breast, and crispy skin. I've used this recipe over thirty times, and never had a problem. Happy Thanksgiving!
The Food Lab: Turkey Stuffed Turkey
I think turkeys generally aren't served with apples in their mouths, either, and they don't have delicious delicious short ribs.
Kenji, I seem to recall that the Turduckens you've made in the past had turkey breast that was quite moist, perhaps from all the fat oozing in from the duck.
Also, I'm such a sucker for stuffing rather than dressing. Can you roll some stuffing up in one of those rolls?
The Food Lab: Turkey Stuffed Turkey
Kenji, chefRobert -
Thanks for the info - I don't have a meat grinder (yet), but at least this gives me a goal for the next time I do a turkey.
Chocolate Chip Cookie Championship: The Uptown Edition
Don't miss either the Fluer de Sel or creme fraiche choc. chip cookies at Marlow and Sons!
Worst Meal This Year: Lucy's Cantina Royale
@Carey Jones,
I was really pleased to read this review yesterday just before heading one block from my office to try this place for the first time. It is true that good places to eat around here are limited to Mooncake Foods, my favorite Halal truck, and the French Macaron Cafe, so I truly had high hopes for Lucy's. THANK YOU FOR THE WAKEUP CALL that was this review, but especially, thanks for the heads up about the ambience!
I felt like I was in a cross between the bar at the Cancun airport, and a hooters. CREEPY. However, I ordered the Baja sliders, and those tiny little burgers, covered in mystery sauce they may have been, were COOKED TO PERFECTION. None of the other sliders in the neighborhood come close to the medium-rare perfection of these tasty little treats. I chased them down with the most delicious Michelada I've had in months (I was able to substitute the recommended Corona Light for a Negra Modelo, thank goodness).
Despite being scantily clad on the rainy day that it was, the servers were very friendly. I think it's terrible that they have to wear those outfits, really.
@megperks - REAL Mexican food goldmine on East 116th Street, try Taqueria El Paso, among others.
Worst Meal This Year: Lucy's Cantina Royale
All I can say is "WOW" I mean dayam... this is really a terrible, terrible review. I have friends who work in the area and will definitely be warning them from this... the anger spews from the monitor and hurts! It burns!
PS I'm with the people who said it's good to see the mediocre reviews too.
Worst Meal This Year: Lucy's Cantina Royale
I work in this area and so sad that we have hardly any good lunch options. Mooncake is the only place I can bring a friend to so far
The Food Lab: Turkey Stuffed Turkey
@stratusgd
chefRObert is right - bacteria can be killed at much lower tmperatures. Pasteurization of milk takes place in temps as low as 145 degrees fahrenheit, and you can go even a couple of degree lower provided you give it enough time (30 minutes at 145 kills 99.999% of bacteria)
Also, the center of the turkey breast is not too much or a threat in terms of bacteria - it's the exterior that matters more, and that gets well above 145. Brining the turkey or salting it will also reduce bacteria count.
At the end of the day, if you want to be by the books and roast your turkey to 165, using this method of making it into an even shape will still give oyu better results that just roasting a turkey whole, so if you've been roasting whole turkeys to 165, give this a go, and you'll probably be happy with the results.
The Food Lab: Turkey Stuffed Turkey
@Chefrobert: Good information about food safety. I think a lot people assume that bacteria needs to be incinerated at leather-making temperatures when a much more reasonable temperature will do.
Also, you're handle always makes me think of Robert Irvine from Dinner: Impossible.
The Food Lab: Turkey Stuffed Turkey
Once again, great article! I appreciate the step-by-step breakdown, and can't wait to convince my mom to STOP OVERCOOKING THE TURKEY!!
The Food Lab: Turkey Stuffed Turkey
The Temperature Danger Zone for bacterial growth is 41-135 F. 135 F and above is fine. Good restaurants cook poultry to 140-145 F.
Potentially Hazardous Food:
-Moist Foods
-Neutral or Slightly Acidic pH (bacteria grows well between pH's of 4.6 - 7.5)
-Foods High in Protein (Fish, Eggs, Poultry, Melons, Dairy, etc)
FAT TOM: Food, Acidity, Temperature, Time, Oxygen, and Moisture
(The conditions needed by foodborne microorganisms to grow)
Populations at High Risk for Foodborne Illness:
-The Elderly, Pregnant Women, Infants & Children, Medicated or Chronically Ill
(Raw Ingredients/Foods that are not fully cooked, like oysters, raw meats and sushi are not safe for this population to consume)
It's not all about cooking temperature. Food can also become unsafe by purchasing from unsafe sources, using contaminated equipment, chemicals or physical objects added to food, holding or reheating it at improper temperatures, not cooling hot food quickly if eating leftovers later, leaving food in the temperature danger zone for 2 hours or more, poor personal hygiene, unsanitary surfaces, contaminated cloths/towels that transport microorganisms and not washing hands.
More often than not, foodborne illness is caused by these issues rather than improper internal cooking temperatures in protein. The truth is that most people tend to overcook meat.
The Food Lab: Turkey Stuffed Turkey
A question about the temperatures: I always assumed (and have read) that the 165° mark is about food safety, i.e. killing bacteria. While the turkey breast may appear 'done' at 145°, that's still a 20° margin.
Having had a bout of food poisoning (not from anything home-made, fortunately) that resulted in losing 10 lbs over Christmas one year and fever-induced hallucinations, you'll forgive me for be cautious about undercooked food.
My own preference is to either break up the turkey, or to flip it. I've never made a bird heaver than 15 lbs - and that's easy enough to flip.
The Food Lab: Turkey Stuffed Turkey
@Tombolo - you could also just go with the second approach, making the breast "log," and serving turkey rilletes or crisp turkey confit on the side.
The Food Lab: Turkey Stuffed Turkey
@Tombolo
Turkey confit is great - almost as good as duck.
The forcemeat can be made in the food processor. Just chill the meat well, and grind it in batches of about 1/2 pound at a taime, pulsing the processor as you go. Won't be quite the same, but will still work.
Watch It with Us: 'Top Chef Las Vegas,' Ep. 12
Michael, aka the douchey, backwards behatted bro, just doesn't get it. He's got a lot of chops but his ideas are masturbatory in their complexity. Simpler, well-executed & flavorful food always wins over a plate full of 40 different flavors of nouvelle late 80's 'America-in-its-fine-food-infancy' style cooking. He's like a kid with his or her first giant box of crayons - bizarre rainbows everywhere, well-drawn rainbows perhaps, but those colors don't work together. His ego is the one who does the cooking, not him.
Watch It with Us: 'Top Chef Las Vegas,' Ep. 12
I heart Kevin, or as he's known in my house, "Teddy Ruxpin." Food doesn't have to be overcomplicated to be special. He knows that. Everything he's made this season has made me drool.
Worst Meal This Year: Lucy's Cantina Royale
I'd love to see Lucy's Cantina Royale's response to this.
Watch It with Us: 'Top Chef Las Vegas,' Ep. 12
@Big Guy : gotta love The Gilded Truffle.
Watch It with Us: 'Top Chef Las Vegas,' Ep. 12
Moe: “Bring us your finest food stuffed with the second finest.” Waiter: “Excellent, sir. Lobsters stuffed with tacos."
Worst Meal This Year: Lucy's Cantina Royale
It is also good to put up mediocre and bad reviews to give contrast to the glowing ones. Maybe Ed would lose the "Easy Ed" nickname he has gotten for consistently positive reviews (unless there is some additional reason earning him the name...)
Watch It with Us: 'Top Chef Las Vegas,' Ep. 12
Haven't seen the episode yet (we seem to be a week behind in Canada), but I'm rooting for Kevin. Michael can complain all he wants about Kevin's dishes, but the guy is consistently in the top, or winning. It's that simple. He can cook very, very well, and can create dishes that fit the challenge. The fact that he has such a great attitude just makes him look better, and will serve to bolster what will undoubtedly be a long and stellar career.
Recent Posts
Robert LaValva on the New Amsterdam Market
Posted by Carey Jones, November 20, 2009 at 12:30 PM
Smörgåsboard: Polenta Budino, Chicken Gizzards
Posted by Carey Jones, November 20, 2009 at 9:00 AM
The Whole Hog at Joseph Leonard's 'Cochon Sundays'
Posted by Carey Jones, November 19, 2009 at 12:30 PM
Smörgåsboard: Sheep's Milk Ricotta, Kimchi and Pork Dumpling Soup
Posted by Carey Jones, November 19, 2009 at 9:00 AM
Worst Meal This Year: Lucy's Cantina Royale
Posted by Carey Jones, November 18, 2009 at 5:00 PM
Heston Blumenthal Went To Shopsin's
Posted by Carey Jones, November 18, 2009 at 11:30 AM
This Week in 'New York Times' Food News
Posted by Carey Jones, November 18, 2009 at 11:15 AM
Week in Reviews: Best Bites
Posted by Carey Jones, November 18, 2009 at 10:00 AM
Announcing the Slow Foods NYC Charity Auction, Kicking Off Today
Posted by Carey Jones, November 18, 2009 at 9:00 AM
Apparently We Caused a Cookie Run...
Posted by Carey Jones, November 17, 2009 at 4:30 PM
The Making of the 'Uovo in Raviolo' at Manhattan's SD26
Posted by Carey Jones, November 17, 2009 at 12:30 PM
Locavore Thanksgiving: Your Guide To Holiday Shopping At Farmers' Markets
Posted by Carey Jones, November 17, 2009 at 11:30 AM
Smörgåsboard: Crullers, Bosnian Soup
Posted by Carey Jones, November 17, 2009 at 9:00 AM
David Chang is the Guest Chef at the Google Cafeteria Today
Posted by Carey Jones, November 16, 2009 at 1:30 PM
Chocolate Chip Cookie Championship: The Midtown(ish) Edition
Posted by Carey Jones, November 16, 2009 at 12:15 PM
Winter Warmers: Apple Cider and Doughnut Plant Munchkins at Shake Shack
Posted by Carey Jones, November 16, 2009 at 11:15 AM
Smörgåsboard: Shaved Ice, 'Sarajevo Burger'
Posted by Carey Jones, November 16, 2009 at 9:00 AM
Thanksgiving at the Plaza... In 1899
Posted by Carey Jones, November 16, 2009 at 6:00 AM
Where Does Your Thanksgiving Loyalty Lie?
Posted by Carey Jones, November 15, 2009 at 5:00 PM
This Week In New York
Posted by Carey Jones, November 14, 2009 at 3:00 PM
Porcini Tasting Menu at Babbo
Posted by Carey Jones, November 13, 2009 at 2:15 PM
What's A 'Real' Brooklyn Restaurant?
Posted by Carey Jones, November 13, 2009 at 12:00 PM
Smörgåsboard: Ma Peche, Wonton Mein
Posted by Carey Jones, November 13, 2009 at 9:00 AM
NYC Food Events For the Weekend (and Beyond)
Posted by Carey Jones, November 12, 2009 at 4:30 PM
Michael Symon's Roasted Dates with Pancetta, Almonds, and Chile
Posted by Carey Jones, November 12, 2009 at 2:00 PM
Recent Favorites
Raising the Bar: Solid Bar Bites at Bar Stuzzichini
Posted by Tia Kim, November 19, 2009 at 1:00 PM
Meet & Eat: Amy Thompson, Lucy's Whey
Posted by Laren Spirer, November 19, 2009 at 2:30 PM
Worst Meal This Year: Lucy's Cantina Royale
Posted by Carey Jones, November 18, 2009 at 5:00 PM
Ma Peche, 'Momofuku Midtown': Tien Ho Is a Peach of a Chef
Posted by Ed Levine, November 17, 2009 at 11:00 PM
Locavore Thanksgiving: Your Guide To Holiday Shopping At Farmers' Markets
Posted by Carey Jones, November 17, 2009 at 11:30 AM
The Making of the 'Uovo in Raviolo' at Manhattan's SD26
Posted by Carey Jones, November 17, 2009 at 12:30 PM
Brooklyn Star Brunch: The South Has Risen Again in Williamsburg
Posted by Ed Levine, November 10, 2009 at 11:00 PM
Video: Cookie Monster on the Origin of 'Om Nom Nom Nom Nom' and How to Eat a Cookie
Posted by Robyn Lee, November 10, 2009 at 12:30 PM
Chocolate Chip Cookie Championship: The Uptown Edition
Posted by Carey Jones, November 9, 2009 at 1:30 PM
Snapshots from London: Good Eats At Borough Market
Posted by Carey Jones, November 3, 2009 at 5:00 PM
Sandwich Alley: New York's West Village Block of Sandwich Deliciousness
Posted by Carey Jones, November 2, 2009 at 12:00 PM
New Jersey Dispatch: Asian Food Center
Posted by BrianYarvin, October 30, 2009 at 10:00 AM
Yankees vs. Phillies: The Serious Eats World Series
Posted by Ed Levine, October 28, 2009 at 2:45 PM
Video: Butchering At Back Forty
Posted by Carey Jones, October 29, 2009 at 12:00 PM
Shake Shack, Bill's, and RUB: It's Rainin' Smashed Burgers In This Burg
Posted by Ed Levine, October 27, 2009 at 11:00 PM
Beyond the Ice Cream: The Bent Spoon in Princeton, New Jersey
Posted by Carey Jones, October 27, 2009 at 10:00 AM
Robataya: Grills, Shouts, and Oars in the East Village
Posted by Tam Ngo, October 23, 2009 at 12:00 PM
Serious Eats Finds New York's Best Cheesecake
Posted by Carey Jones, October 19, 2009 at 10:00 AM
Ten Rainy Day Eats In New York
Posted by Carey Jones, October 16, 2009 at 12:30 PM
Serious Eats Finds New York's Best Bagel
Posted by Carey Jones, October 6, 2009 at 11:30 AM
Making Scarpetta's Tomato-Basil Spaghetti with Scott Conant
Posted by Carey Jones, October 5, 2009 at 4:20 PM
The Serious Eater's Guide to Open House New York
Posted by Carey Jones, October 1, 2009 at 5:45 PM
Lunch for One: Saltie
Posted by Kathy YL Chan, September 30, 2009 at 12:45 PM
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About Carey Jones
Website: http://careyjones.wordpress.com
Location: New York
About: Editor of Serious Eats: New York.
Favorite foods: Thin-crust pizza, Greek and Icelandic yogurt, anything sold in a patisserie.
Last bite on earth: A perfect pizza margherita, sweet potato fries, and a huge gooey cinnamon bun for dessert. And maybe a mojito.

Thanks. All fixed!