Carey Jones’s Profile

Recent Comments

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Turkey Stuffed Turkey

@velcerick: Links fixed. Thanks for the heads-up!

See more comments by Carey Jones »

Recent Posts

From Serious Eats: New York

Robert LaValva on the New Amsterdam Market

From Serious Eats: New York

Smörgåsboard: Polenta Budino, Chicken Gizzards

From Serious Eats: New York

The Whole Hog at Joseph Leonard's 'Cochon Sundays'

From Serious Eats: New York

Smörgåsboard: Sheep's Milk Ricotta, Kimchi and Pork Dumpling Soup

See more posts by Carey Jones »

Recent Favorites

From Serious Eats: New York

Raising the Bar: Solid Bar Bites at Bar Stuzzichini

From Serious Eats: New York

Meet & Eat: Amy Thompson, Lucy's Whey

From Serious Eats: New York

Worst Meal This Year: Lucy's Cantina Royale

From Recipes

Cakespy: The Pumpkin-Apple-Pecan Pie

See more favorites by Carey Jones »

Recent Polls

Carey Jones hasn't answered any polls yet.

Recent Quizzes

Carey Jones hasn't taken any quizzes yet.

Recent Comments | Response to Comments

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Turkey Stuffed Turkey

@velcerick: Links fixed. Thanks for the heads-up!

From Serious Eats

Watch It with Us: 'Top Chef Las Vegas,' Ep. 12

Votes for "fan favorite"? There's no Fabio this season....

From Serious Eats

Watch It with Us: 'Top Chef Las Vegas,' Ep. 12

Thrilled that Jennifer is back--her dish looked spectacular.

From Serious Eats: New York

Worst Meal This Year: Lucy's Cantina Royale

@Eating the Road and Carioca: That's the amazing thing about Robyn's photographs. They make the food look better than it tastes... in fact, they often make the food look better than it does with the naked eye!

From Serious Eats: New York

Worst Meal This Year: Lucy's Cantina Royale

@John C.: Feel free to report back.

@travpard: I can't count the number of guy friends I had in college who went to Hooters "for the wings." I'll give 'em the pitchers of beer and eye candy, but I refuse to accept that anyone heads there for the food.

From Serious Eats: New York

Wednesday at Paradou: Offal Tasting Menu

@paulandpaul: $40 for a 4-course Prix Fixe, now listed in the entry. Thanks!

From Serious Eats: New York

The Making of the 'Uovo in Raviolo' at Manhattan's SD26

@mattx52: I didn't mean to suggest that Marcattilii had invented the dish, only that it was he who initially brought it to San Domenico, and it was a dish he was very much identified with.

From Serious Eats: New York

Chocolate Chip Cookie Championship: The Midtown(ish) Edition

@hightemp: Interesting. For the record, ours came from 37th and 7th.

That's part of the reason we wanted a two-round taste test. If a cookie isn't consistent, multiple tastings put them at a disadvantage. The best cookie is not only fantastic on first tasting, but fantastic on a return visit. We'll see how Pret fares in the finals!

From Serious Eats: New York

Chocolate Chip Cookie Championship: The Midtown(ish) Edition

@kathryn: Nope, we're sticking to bakeries and other take-out spots for this competition.

From Serious Eats: New York

Brooklyn Star Brunch: The South Has Risen Again in Williamsburg

Yes, it's pretty hard to enjoy a meal at Brooklyn Star without getting airlifted out afterwards. But very, very worth it.

From Serious Eats: New York

Butchering A Whole Lamb, By Slow Foods NYC

@bettyb and others: We believed that this was an interesting look at how an animal most of the world eats is broken down into its components. While we didn't believe the picture of the whole lamb to be offensive, after we received the first two complaints, we immediately moved it after the jump so that it would not appear on the same page. The post is titled "Butchering A Whole Lamb," giving some indication of the photos that appear within.

From Serious Eats: New York

Chocolate Chip Cookie Championship: The Uptown Edition

@Koreanita: Yes, per the footnote, JT will appear in a future round.

From Serious Eats: New York

Chocolate Chip Cookie Championship: The Uptown Edition

@HeartofGlass: Well, these are six-ounce cookies, whereas the standard Toll House size—say, the cookie that one of those break-apart refrigerated doughs will give you—is more like one ounce. Basically, unless it's your birthday and you're skipping the cake, I wouldn't advise eating a Levain cookie alone. Even half a cookie leaves you with that unpleasant "Wow, I just ate an enormous cookie" feeling.

From Serious Eats: New York

What The Yankees Ate Before The World Series Win

@redfish and lemonfair: Yes, this is a scaled-down version. The intent is to provide the recipe, not to provide the scale that could feed an entire baseball team.

From Serious Eats: New York

Mix It Up: The Bubbly Scribe at Raines Law Room

Apologies, the number given was incorrect; the bar does not have a phone number.

From Serious Eats

Taste Test: Frozen Apple Pies

It was a little sweeter than I like pie to be, but man, that Marie Callenders was good. If I hadn't known it was frozen, I probably wouldn't have guessed.

From Serious Eats: New York

What A $47,221 Lunch Looks Like

@Peggasus: Yeah, the $30 asparagus, $7.50 espresso, and $9 cappuccino made me wince more than the wine prices.... if you buy wine that pricey, you know what you're getting into.

From Serious Eats: New York

Sandwich Alley: New York's West Village Block of Sandwich Deliciousness

@wburg913: Didn't forget it! (In fact, we stopped by Grey Dog during our visit.) But we kept incredibly strict parameters on Sandwich Alley. Precisely one block, all with storefronts ON Bleecker (in the case of Bleecker Street Pizza, it's on the corner on the in-bounds side of the street). Once you wander outside the boundaries, there's just too much to include.

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Turkey Stuffed Turkey

I think I'm going to go for this, but there's one problem. I have to have drumsticks for my dad. So I'm thinking I'll get a couple of turkey legs to cook along side the bird. Any tips on working out the timing? Maybe start the legs a little ahead of the stuffed breasts?

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Turkey Stuffed Turkey

I don't understand - why would anyone prefer a turkey over a suckling pig?

From Serious Eats: New York

Worst Meal This Year: Lucy's Cantina Royale

I'm sure you must feel you had it coming (I should've known, etc), I'm happy you chose to out them. I thumbed through my Zagat last week, checking my experiences against the ratings. I got several attacks of apoplexy. How could these anonymous morons rate this place or that one so highly? But Zagat is a democracy, and opinions are culled, and even dare I say, interpreted from many opinions. Grand Sichuan 9th Ave, one I especially hated for precipitously declining food and offensive servers, got raves. Bar Stuzzichini, one of the finest affordable Sicilian kitchens, passed for good, when after ten visits, I found to be stupendous.

We can all agree on one thing: My stomach and I have been friends too long to pull a thing like that on it..

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Turkey Stuffed Turkey

@Aya
You're right - there was one year when the turducken was moist, but that took a heck of a lot of work to get it that way.

Short version:
The problem: chicken is inside duck is inside turkey. Chicken needs to cook to 145, duck is better at 125, turkey needs to be 145.

Solution:
1. Bone out chicken, stuff, wrap in cheesecloth, poach until 145.
2. Bone out duck. Stuff with cooked chicken. Wrap in cheesecloth, poach until 125.
3. bone out turkey, stuff with duck stuffed with chicken, sew up, roast in low oven until 145. Remove from oven and rest
4. Roast in hot oven until brown and crisp.
5. Carve and serve.

See? Pain in the butt.

@KevinB

The problem with the stuffing is that even if you precook it, juices from the turkey drip into it while the turkey is roasting, so you still need to get it to come up to at least 145 before you can pull the turkey out, which means taking the turkey a little higher.

Of course, as always, if you've been doing something for years and are happy with the results, then that's all that matters! It's a heck of a lot easier than all this rigmarole I put my bird through anyway...

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Turkey Stuffed Turkey

I never have to go to these lengths, and I still end up with moist white meat, fully cooked dark meat, and an honest-to-God stuffing. Two simple steps:

I make a stuffing out of pork sausage, celery, apples, bread, and spices. My simple solution to bacteria? Cook the sausage before you mix it in the stuffing. Problem solved - the stuffing still sucks up lots of flavour from the bird (and my recipe makes a ton, so we end up with dressing as well, which is still good, but definitely tastes different) but it's fully cooked.

Second step: soak a triple (at least) layer of cheesecloth in oil, oil the breast, and then place the cheesecloth over the breast. After the first 45 minutes of cooking, baste every 20-30 minutes, paying particular attention to the breast. This means basting about 6-8 times, depending, for 2-3 minutes a time - 12 to 24 minutes total, which is a lot less than the time needed to dismember or debone the bird in the methods above. For the last half hour, carefully remove the cheesecloth so the skin can brown nicely. Don't just pull it off, as that might tear the skin underneath (hence the importance of oiling the breast before applying the cloth).

You end up with a beautiful, Rockwell-type bird, with a moist juicy breast, and crispy skin. I've used this recipe over thirty times, and never had a problem. Happy Thanksgiving!

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Turkey Stuffed Turkey

I think turkeys generally aren't served with apples in their mouths, either, and they don't have delicious delicious short ribs.
Kenji, I seem to recall that the Turduckens you've made in the past had turkey breast that was quite moist, perhaps from all the fat oozing in from the duck.

Also, I'm such a sucker for stuffing rather than dressing. Can you roll some stuffing up in one of those rolls?

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Turkey Stuffed Turkey

Kenji, chefRobert -

Thanks for the info - I don't have a meat grinder (yet), but at least this gives me a goal for the next time I do a turkey.

From Serious Eats: New York

Chocolate Chip Cookie Championship: The Uptown Edition

Don't miss either the Fluer de Sel or creme fraiche choc. chip cookies at Marlow and Sons!

From Serious Eats: New York

Worst Meal This Year: Lucy's Cantina Royale

@Carey Jones,

I was really pleased to read this review yesterday just before heading one block from my office to try this place for the first time. It is true that good places to eat around here are limited to Mooncake Foods, my favorite Halal truck, and the French Macaron Cafe, so I truly had high hopes for Lucy's. THANK YOU FOR THE WAKEUP CALL that was this review, but especially, thanks for the heads up about the ambience!

I felt like I was in a cross between the bar at the Cancun airport, and a hooters. CREEPY. However, I ordered the Baja sliders, and those tiny little burgers, covered in mystery sauce they may have been, were COOKED TO PERFECTION. None of the other sliders in the neighborhood come close to the medium-rare perfection of these tasty little treats. I chased them down with the most delicious Michelada I've had in months (I was able to substitute the recommended Corona Light for a Negra Modelo, thank goodness).

Despite being scantily clad on the rainy day that it was, the servers were very friendly. I think it's terrible that they have to wear those outfits, really.

@megperks - REAL Mexican food goldmine on East 116th Street, try Taqueria El Paso, among others.

From Serious Eats: New York

Worst Meal This Year: Lucy's Cantina Royale

All I can say is "WOW" I mean dayam... this is really a terrible, terrible review. I have friends who work in the area and will definitely be warning them from this... the anger spews from the monitor and hurts! It burns!

PS I'm with the people who said it's good to see the mediocre reviews too.

From Serious Eats: New York

Worst Meal This Year: Lucy's Cantina Royale

I work in this area and so sad that we have hardly any good lunch options. Mooncake is the only place I can bring a friend to so far

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Turkey Stuffed Turkey

@stratusgd

chefRObert is right - bacteria can be killed at much lower tmperatures. Pasteurization of milk takes place in temps as low as 145 degrees fahrenheit, and you can go even a couple of degree lower provided you give it enough time (30 minutes at 145 kills 99.999% of bacteria)

Also, the center of the turkey breast is not too much or a threat in terms of bacteria - it's the exterior that matters more, and that gets well above 145. Brining the turkey or salting it will also reduce bacteria count.

At the end of the day, if you want to be by the books and roast your turkey to 165, using this method of making it into an even shape will still give oyu better results that just roasting a turkey whole, so if you've been roasting whole turkeys to 165, give this a go, and you'll probably be happy with the results.

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Turkey Stuffed Turkey

@Chefrobert: Good information about food safety. I think a lot people assume that bacteria needs to be incinerated at leather-making temperatures when a much more reasonable temperature will do.

Also, you're handle always makes me think of Robert Irvine from Dinner: Impossible.

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Turkey Stuffed Turkey

Once again, great article! I appreciate the step-by-step breakdown, and can't wait to convince my mom to STOP OVERCOOKING THE TURKEY!!

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Turkey Stuffed Turkey

The Temperature Danger Zone for bacterial growth is 41-135 F. 135 F and above is fine. Good restaurants cook poultry to 140-145 F.

Potentially Hazardous Food:
-Moist Foods
-Neutral or Slightly Acidic pH (bacteria grows well between pH's of 4.6 - 7.5)
-Foods High in Protein (Fish, Eggs, Poultry, Melons, Dairy, etc)

FAT TOM: Food, Acidity, Temperature, Time, Oxygen, and Moisture
(The conditions needed by foodborne microorganisms to grow)

Populations at High Risk for Foodborne Illness:
-The Elderly, Pregnant Women, Infants & Children, Medicated or Chronically Ill
(Raw Ingredients/Foods that are not fully cooked, like oysters, raw meats and sushi are not safe for this population to consume)

It's not all about cooking temperature. Food can also become unsafe by purchasing from unsafe sources, using contaminated equipment, chemicals or physical objects added to food, holding or reheating it at improper temperatures, not cooling hot food quickly if eating leftovers later, leaving food in the temperature danger zone for 2 hours or more, poor personal hygiene, unsanitary surfaces, contaminated cloths/towels that transport microorganisms and not washing hands.

More often than not, foodborne illness is caused by these issues rather than improper internal cooking temperatures in protein. The truth is that most people tend to overcook meat.

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Turkey Stuffed Turkey

A question about the temperatures: I always assumed (and have read) that the 165° mark is about food safety, i.e. killing bacteria. While the turkey breast may appear 'done' at 145°, that's still a 20° margin.

Having had a bout of food poisoning (not from anything home-made, fortunately) that resulted in losing 10 lbs over Christmas one year and fever-induced hallucinations, you'll forgive me for be cautious about undercooked food.

My own preference is to either break up the turkey, or to flip it. I've never made a bird heaver than 15 lbs - and that's easy enough to flip.

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Turkey Stuffed Turkey

@Tombolo - you could also just go with the second approach, making the breast "log," and serving turkey rilletes or crisp turkey confit on the side.

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: Turkey Stuffed Turkey

@Tombolo

Turkey confit is great - almost as good as duck.

The forcemeat can be made in the food processor. Just chill the meat well, and grind it in batches of about 1/2 pound at a taime, pulsing the processor as you go. Won't be quite the same, but will still work.

From Serious Eats

Watch It with Us: 'Top Chef Las Vegas,' Ep. 12

Michael, aka the douchey, backwards behatted bro, just doesn't get it. He's got a lot of chops but his ideas are masturbatory in their complexity. Simpler, well-executed & flavorful food always wins over a plate full of 40 different flavors of nouvelle late 80's 'America-in-its-fine-food-infancy' style cooking. He's like a kid with his or her first giant box of crayons - bizarre rainbows everywhere, well-drawn rainbows perhaps, but those colors don't work together. His ego is the one who does the cooking, not him.

From Serious Eats

Watch It with Us: 'Top Chef Las Vegas,' Ep. 12

I heart Kevin, or as he's known in my house, "Teddy Ruxpin." Food doesn't have to be overcomplicated to be special. He knows that. Everything he's made this season has made me drool.

From Serious Eats

Watch It with Us: 'Top Chef Las Vegas,' Ep. 12

Moe: “Bring us your finest food stuffed with the second finest.” Waiter: “Excellent, sir. Lobsters stuffed with tacos."

From Serious Eats: New York

Worst Meal This Year: Lucy's Cantina Royale

It is also good to put up mediocre and bad reviews to give contrast to the glowing ones. Maybe Ed would lose the "Easy Ed" nickname he has gotten for consistently positive reviews (unless there is some additional reason earning him the name...)

From Serious Eats

Watch It with Us: 'Top Chef Las Vegas,' Ep. 12

Haven't seen the episode yet (we seem to be a week behind in Canada), but I'm rooting for Kevin. Michael can complain all he wants about Kevin's dishes, but the guy is consistently in the top, or winning. It's that simple. He can cook very, very well, and can create dishes that fit the challenge. The fact that he has such a great attitude just makes him look better, and will serve to bolster what will undoubtedly be a long and stellar career.

Recent Posts

From Serious Eats: New York

Robert LaValva on the New Amsterdam Market

From Serious Eats: New York

Smörgåsboard: Polenta Budino, Chicken Gizzards

From Serious Eats: New York

The Whole Hog at Joseph Leonard's 'Cochon Sundays'

From Serious Eats: New York

Smörgåsboard: Sheep's Milk Ricotta, Kimchi and Pork Dumpling Soup

From Serious Eats: New York

Worst Meal This Year: Lucy's Cantina Royale

From Serious Eats: New York

Heston Blumenthal Went To Shopsin's

From Serious Eats: New York

This Week in 'New York Times' Food News

From Serious Eats: New York

Week in Reviews: Best Bites

From Serious Eats: New York

Announcing the Slow Foods NYC Charity Auction, Kicking Off Today

From Serious Eats: New York

Apparently We Caused a Cookie Run...

From Serious Eats: New York

The Making of the 'Uovo in Raviolo' at Manhattan's SD26

From Serious Eats: New York

Locavore Thanksgiving: Your Guide To Holiday Shopping At Farmers' Markets

From Serious Eats: New York

Smörgåsboard: Crullers, Bosnian Soup

From Serious Eats: New York

David Chang is the Guest Chef at the Google Cafeteria Today

From Serious Eats: New York

Chocolate Chip Cookie Championship: The Midtown(ish) Edition

From Serious Eats: New York

Winter Warmers: Apple Cider and Doughnut Plant Munchkins at Shake Shack

From Serious Eats: New York

Smörgåsboard: Shaved Ice, 'Sarajevo Burger'

From Serious Eats: New York

Thanksgiving at the Plaza... In 1899

From Serious Eats: New York

Where Does Your Thanksgiving Loyalty Lie?

From Serious Eats: New York

This Week In New York

From Serious Eats: New York

Porcini Tasting Menu at Babbo

From Serious Eats: New York

What's A 'Real' Brooklyn Restaurant?

From Serious Eats: New York

Smörgåsboard: Ma Peche, Wonton Mein

From Serious Eats: New York

NYC Food Events For the Weekend (and Beyond)

From Serious Eats: New York

Michael Symon's Roasted Dates with Pancetta, Almonds, and Chile

Recent Favorites

From Serious Eats: New York

Raising the Bar: Solid Bar Bites at Bar Stuzzichini

From Serious Eats: New York

Meet & Eat: Amy Thompson, Lucy's Whey

From Serious Eats: New York

Worst Meal This Year: Lucy's Cantina Royale

From Recipes

Cakespy: The Pumpkin-Apple-Pecan Pie

From Serious Eats: New York

Ma Peche, 'Momofuku Midtown': Tien Ho Is a Peach of a Chef

From Serious Eats: New York

Locavore Thanksgiving: Your Guide To Holiday Shopping At Farmers' Markets

From Serious Eats: New York

The Making of the 'Uovo in Raviolo' at Manhattan's SD26

From Serious Eats: New York

Brooklyn Star Brunch: The South Has Risen Again in Williamsburg

From Serious Eats

Video: Cookie Monster on the Origin of 'Om Nom Nom Nom Nom' and How to Eat a Cookie

From A Hamburger Today

'Best Ten Minutes'

From Serious Eats: New York

Chocolate Chip Cookie Championship: The Uptown Edition

From Serious Eats

Snapshots from London: Good Eats At Borough Market

From Serious Eats: New York

Sandwich Alley: New York's West Village Block of Sandwich Deliciousness

From Serious Eats: New York

New Jersey Dispatch: Asian Food Center

From Serious Eats: New York

Yankees vs. Phillies: The Serious Eats World Series

From Serious Eats: New York

Video: Butchering At Back Forty

From Serious Eats: New York

Shake Shack, Bill's, and RUB: It's Rainin' Smashed Burgers In This Burg

From Serious Eats: New York

Beyond the Ice Cream: The Bent Spoon in Princeton, New Jersey

From Serious Eats: New York

Robataya: Grills, Shouts, and Oars in the East Village

From Serious Eats: New York

Serious Eats Finds New York's Best Cheesecake

From Serious Eats: New York

Ten Rainy Day Eats In New York

From Serious Eats: New York

Serious Eats Finds New York's Best Bagel

From Serious Eats: New York

Making Scarpetta's Tomato-Basil Spaghetti with Scott Conant

From Serious Eats: New York

The Serious Eater's Guide to Open House New York

From Serious Eats: New York

Lunch for One: Saltie

Polls

Carey Jones hasn't answered any polls yet.

Quizzes

Carey Jones hasn't taken any quizzes yet.

About Carey Jones

Website: http://careyjones.wordpress.com

Location: New York

About: Editor of Serious Eats: New York.

Favorite foods: Thin-crust pizza, Greek and Icelandic yogurt, anything sold in a patisserie.

Last bite on earth: A perfect pizza margherita, sweet potato fries, and a huge gooey cinnamon bun for dessert. And maybe a mojito.