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The Ten Most Recent Comments By Bux

From Talk

Where to take culinary European boyfriend out to dinner in NY?

I'd love to know more about your tastes and those of your boyfriend. For instance, what distinguishes a culinary adventure and how does that differ from a fine dinner for you?

Blue Hill is frequently my first NYC recommendation to anyone really interested in food. Although the food is very subtle and delicate, I've had some of my most exciting meals there.

WD-50 is more obviously cutting edge in terms of technique and that seems to get in the way of some diners' appreciation of the taste. That should not be a problem for anyone into culinary adventures.

Of all the luxury temples of gastronomy in NYC, Daniel remains our personal favorite, but you won't go wrong with le Bernardin or Per Se.

A New York culinary adventure should included some local treats and probably some ethnic food. Suggestions for both are not likely to be in the fine dining category. I'll start with a pastrami sandwich at Katz's, and let me emphasize pastrami. I see all sorts of tourists at Katz's, clueless at what to order, who end up ordering turkey or chicken salad when they could get as good at their hometown diner. Unless you're arriving from Hong Kong, Vancouver or San Francisco, I'd recommend dim sum at Dim Sum GoGo.

From Required Eating

Trends That Should End

cindy, I guess I was suggesting that part of the responsibility for enjoying a fine dinner is borne by the diner and that includes learning how to eat certain dishes. I clearly recall the first time I ate out with fellow college students at a "nice" restaurant. What I noticed more than anything else was that they were more adept than I was using a knife and fork. I resolved to to appear more sophisticated by the time graduated--or at least to be a more confident boor in public.

My second thought, as expressed in my post, was that some foods are just naturally messier than others, but still worth it. Isn't that why god gave us napkins, or rolls of paper towels where appropriate.

To a greater degree, I might have been reacting to the idea that anyone should call for the disappearance of any food based on his own subjective taste. It didn't even make sense for Ed to call for an end to savory flavors in ice cream--I assume that would include black peper in vanilla ice cream--when he had just called for more salted caramel ice cream. Even the basic license for inconsistency assumed by food critics should call for a day's pause.

As for instruction on eating frisee, I have to think about that. It's been a while since I've ordered it and we rarely have it at home. My wife doesn't like it much. ;-) Therein lies the best suggestion. If you don't like it, just don't order it or buy it. I suspect that in some restaurants it's more daintily prepared, reducing the problem. Although I can't recall for sure, I suspect I am more likely to try and and use my knife and fork to fold the frisee into a manageable bundle, than I am to cut it, but that too is certainly an option if the kitchen is sending it out in hunks resembling small heads. And yes, sometimes I get dressing on my beard and even egg on my face. The key in that case is to make the others at the table believe they just didn't enjoy the meal as much as you did.

From Required Eating

Trends That Should End

cindyprice, As someone more likely to have a face full of whiskers than pimples, maybe I'm not the one to comment on frisee salad, but I think a good frisee salad with lardons and soft poached egg is well worth learning how to eat. I mean some people have trouble handling meat, fish and poultry if still on the bone when on their plate, but I'd hate to see restaurants cater to those who have issues with some dishes simply because those dishes require a bit of finesse on the diners part. On second thought, I think it would be a greater shame if restaurants removed all food that was messy to eat, no matter how good the diner's technique.

From Required Eating

Trends That Should End

Bad pork bellies, bad 'molecular gastronomy" and bad hamburgers are all part of the larger food group--bad food--and as such, really don't reflect on the superior examples of their type. Is it really worth singling them out for scorn? Even good pork bellies may take some acquiring of taste to appreciate and a little goes a long way, although admittedly, bad pot roast is probably still edible. Perhaps I should be grateful my grandmother never made pork belly. AdriĆ , by the way, says 'molecular gastronomy' doesn't apply to his cooking and that he was not influenced by the movement or workshop that is credited with the origin of that term.

Savory ice cream, however, is worthy of more discussion. Are you objecting to savory flavors in dessert, or the use of ice cream in savory courses? Maybe ten years ago or more, I had pear ice cream flavored with tarragon in a three star restaurant in San Sebastian and poached fennel with vanilla ice cream in an unstarred Paris bistro. Since then, the incorporation of savory ingredients in ice cream has seemed uncontroversial and the results delicious when handled by a good pastry chef. An incompetent pastry chef can muck up chocolate. As for savory ice creams in savory dishes, the only problem I've seen is perhaps the need for sugar to keep it from crystallizing. For all the examples one might offer in terms of fruit with meat and sugar in Asian savory dishes, I find sweetness a taste most chefs don't handle well when being creative.

From Required Eating

Give the Gift of Noshing

Perhaps bialys suffer loss of freshness all too quickly. If I buy a dozen bialys at Kossar's, there are never more than ten in the bag when I get home (which is why a dozen is never enough). Fresh and warm from the oven, they not only don't need toasting, but they don't need butter or cream cheese. An hour later, toasting is most helpful. As for bagels, it's been a long time since I've had one produced in Manhattan that didn't improve drastically with toasting. Maybe I should mail order from Queens.

No argument on Russ and Daughters for quality, but my subjective choice would be to include some smoked sable (black cod) and some herring in cream sauce rather than the fish salads. I'd also get a big fat whitefish over two chubs. In general I hate preselected gift baskets and while I've been known to have a jones for marshmallow twists (especially straight from the freezer) they're just not worth the cost of shipping.

From Talk

Best brunch in NYC?

That's kind of like asking where is the best place to get dinner. Food, decor and value are all subjective, but even my subjective view on those issues may not matter if my idea of brunch is so different from yours. I'm not much of a fan of buffets, to say the least, although I've experienced some very fine hotel buffets. Actually, I'm not all that much of a fan of brunch in restaurants. Be that as it may, I enjoy Balthazar, and Pastis when the weather permits sitting outside. Good bloody Marys and some good poached egg dishes make it for me.

From Required Eating

Are Expensive Pans Necessarily Better?

The speed with which the pan heats is of less concern to me than how evenly the pan heats. Aluminumm is a good conductor of heat; copper is even better; steel is not as good and stainless steel is very poor conductor among metals. A heavy aluminum pan with a thin stainless steel lining is going to be a better frying pan over time than a stainless steel pan with a thin layer of aluminum. It's hard to tell if the butter burns in one spot first or all over at once. Nevetheless, a pan that responds quickly to heat is good, especially if it also cools down as quickly as it heats up. Hot spots can, and often do, develop over time. The plinking would lead me to suspect the pan was heating or cooling evenly. I'd worry about both hot spots and warpage over time, but I don't have the scientific background to provide good reasons for my worry.

Sometimes it's more economical to buy a cheap tool and replace it when it wears out than to buy a good tool once, but I find I tend to keep on getting by with the cheap tool long after it's stopped functioning properly. To protect myself, I've learned to buy better tools in the first place. On the other hand, it's often as easy to abuse good pans as cheap ones and the low cost pans may be good first choices for beginners learning to cook.

From Talk

Question of the Day: Latkes—Applesauce or Sour Cream?

Either, both or neither. Applesauce is great if it's home made. A little salt is enough if the latkes are crisp and if they're not, well they still bring back fond childhood memories.

From Serious Eats: New York

Is There Such a Thing as a 4 Star Bargain?

"two courses for $28 and have a Haagen Dasz bar for dessert"

Skip dessert with a pastry chef like Johnny Iuzzini in the kitchen at Jean Georges? On a more abstract level, I'd also argue that there's no such thing as a four star experience without an exceptional dessert to complete the meal.

From Serious Eats: New York

Why do the French Fries at Blue Smoke suck?

I seem to recall that the first time I ate at Blue Smoke, the fries were great. Subsequent to that visit, they were not. Is my memory of the first visit unreliable or did they once use fresh potatoes?

Almost everyone I know likes the French fries at Shake Shack. I've never understood why. They suck. It's nice to know someone agrees with me. They are a poor excuse to consume ketchup, a condiment I generally avoid.

Responses to Comments by Bux

From Serious Eats: New York

The Tuna Salad of My Dreams

Olives in Soho on Prince (btw Wooster & Greene St) makes a tuna sandy with Grilled Yellowfin Tuna (served with watercress and tomato on seven grain bread). I have to admit it needs seasoning, but if you want to be "healthy" it's a great way to go. My favorite addiction there is their Italian Hero. You won't go wrong with that sandwich.

From Serious Eats: New York

Delicious for a Dollar?

Chelsea79, I didn't know the Dumpling House has great wonton soup. I'm definitely going to try it.

From Serious Eats: New York

Delicious for a Dollar?

At the Dumpling House, on Eldridge between Broome and Grand, $1 will get you a pint of the best wonton soup you've ever had, 5 succulent fried pork and scallion dumplings, or 4 tasty pork buns. A giant sesame pancake sandwich tips the scale at $1.25 for vegetable and $1.50 for tuna or beef, but its worth the extra quarters.

From Talk

Best brunch in NYC?

Update: Pastis no longer serves Eggs Sardou on their brunch menu, alas. The le panier bread basket is still good, as is the French Toast, but the Blood Mary was too thick.

From Required Eating

Are Expensive Pans Necessarily Better?

My cheap pans ALWAYS plink, and freak me out!

From Serious Eats: New York

Sandwiches That Will Change Your Life

Hi Ed,

I read the article back in September and there was a place I was dying to try once I got home from college for winter break. It was in Rockville Centre, NY and I remember you saying it had an excellent crab cake sandwich. Can you (or anyone else reading this) post the name of the restaurant? Thanks!

From Talk

Where to take culinary European boyfriend out to dinner in NY?

I grew up and New York, have lived in Denmark, the Netherlands and now in London, and have a Norwegian boyfriend, so I think I can relate a bit culturally. I think, from a Northern European point of view, the most 'exciting' and 'adventurous' foods in New York will be specifically New York-y foods (my boyfriend loves knishes and kishka and anything covered in schmaltz) and other 'ethnic' foods. Trust me, there aren't many authentic Chinese restaurants in Denmark, nor is there much good jerk chicken, soul food, or even inventive vegetarian food. There are, however, a number of restaurants that serve posh Modern European-type cuisine. So skip those kinds of places and spend an afternoon wandering around Chinatown instead.

From Required Eating

Trends That Should End

Even if it were technically possible, I don't think I'd want pork belly with "just about all of the fat rendered." Thin, but distinct layers of custard-like fat, and the exquisite counterpoint they play with the meat and the crispy skin, are an integral part of the peak pork belly experience...embrace them...

From Talk

Where to take culinary European boyfriend out to dinner in NY?

I highly recommend finding an lunch or dinner at the James Beard House and dining there. You'll get to eat with a bunch of people you don't know, but the food is great, and you'll learn some things about James Beard you might not have known. When you're in the dining area, be sure to visit the restroom.

From Required Eating

Trends That Should End

To rangoon: With all due respect, have you eaten at BLT Burger? The burgers are, at best, acceptable, and at worst, awful. And at high prices... I think LT is a genius for opening it, but he really shouldn't have.