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Bravetart

Bravetart

Pastry Chef

A Kentucky girl who ran away to New York and the CIA, graduated, made pastries, lived in Tokyo, and then came home again. Paid to play with food.

BraveTart is a culinary time machine, taking you back to childhood by harnessing the power of nostalgic desserts.

  • Website
  • Location: Kentucky
  • Favorite foods: I'm allergic to pork, so over the years I've completely developed a fetish for this forbidden food and a few times a year I'll make myself completely ill by eating some glorious pork-based noms.
  • Last bite on earth: I mean, it would probably really depend on what time of year I was scheduled to die or otherwise depart planet earth. But lacking that specific information, I'd have to say a bowl of Oyakodon.

BraveTart: Make Your Own Magic Middles

Writing about Magic Middles, making a recipe for them, makes me feel like that person at the Police Department that sketches a criminal's portrait while listening to the victim's account. You see, I have never tasted a Magic Middle or seen one in the wild. But based on eye witness reports and video footage, I've taken on the role of a forensic chef in the hunt for America's Most Wanted Cookie. More

BraveTart: Oatmeal Creme Pies

Oatmeal Creme Pies have mastered consistency in every sense of the word. It starts with the unparalleled consistency of both the cookies and the so-called creme. Together they are yielding yet substantial and neither squishy nor firm. Their flavor and texture remain consistent from edge to edge, from box to box, from decade to decade. More

BraveTart: Make Your Own Fruit Roll-Ups

Scarfing down a sugary snack without preamble definitely gets the job done, but a little delayed gratification really amps up the satisfaction of certain sweets. These sweets seem to demand a little ritual and thought: Twisting and licking an Oreo, wearing a Fudge Stripe like an edible ring, punching out the middle of a Reese's Peanut Butter Cup, or folding and nibbling a Fruit Roll-Up into a fruity snowflake. More

Hangover Helper: Oyakodon

I'd like to think of myself as a qualified hangover expert. I grew up in Kentucky, a stone's throw from the Woodford Reserve distillery. I minored in OMG Too Much Booze at culinary school (emphasis on minored; I graduated at 20) and have worked my entire adult life in the hard-drinking realm of restaurant kitchens. More

BraveTart: Make Your Own Brown Sugar Cinnamon Pop-Tarts

Writing a nostalgia-fueled column about childhood junk foods has some occupational hazards. Trips to the grocery now involve huge chunks of time spent roaming the center aisles ("Chips Ahoy or Famous Amos? Oh, hello Pecan Sandies..."), my notebook at work has more pages devoted to Little Debbie than Petite Syrah, and my coworkers get irate when subjected to taste-testing the same thing twelve too many times ("Soft Batch, again?"). More

BraveTart: Make Your Own Chocolate Sprinkles

Last year, Robyn taught us about a magical place called the Netherlands where people enjoy life so much that they crown even the most mundane food, buttered bread, with hagelslag (chocolate sprinkles). I don't know how this practice began, but I'd like to think that the people of the Netherlands have a sweeter constitution and dessert in the evening alone can't sustain them. To survive the long, dangerous hours between breakfast and dessert, they take chocolate vitamins to tide them over. More

BraveTart: Make Your Own Jell-O Style Chocolate Pudding

What made Jell-O pudding in the little plastic cup so exceptional compared to the instant variety, or even homemade, related directly to its texture. It had a slick silkiness that made all other puddings seem as thick and heavy as paste. You could suck up a spoonful through closed teeth, letting it flood your mouth with creamy chocolate wonder. And what can compare to the exquisite pleasure of licking clean the chocolate stained tinfoil lid? More

BraveTart: How to Make Your Own Nilla Wafers

Like loose change lurking in couch cushions, half eaten boxes of Nilla Wafers populate our cupboards; buried treasure lost amid the Seven Cs (cookies, crackers, chocolate, cereal, candy, chips, and cola). No Pantry Pirate ever sets out to find Nilla Wafers, instead, Nilla Wafers reveal themselves with the time is right. Just as despair sets in, the weary snacker sets eyes on their golden shores. More

BraveTart: Holiday Fauxreos

The mere sight of an Oreo stirs up feelings in me disturbingly like love. Not, of course, a torrid, star crossed love. Or even a simple storybook love. No, Oreos give you the kind of love only found in a long term relationship. They're familiar, comforting and pretty good in bed. (Oh, like you never eat cookies in bed?) More

BraveTart: Little Debbie-Style Christmas Tree Cakes

What I can't give you: the sound. The crisp, glassine crinkle of Little Debbie's cello wrap crumpling between your fingers. The delicate, mournful song the wadded-up wrapper sings as it slowly unfurls in the trash bin, discarded after faithfully protecting your snack for so long. What I can give you: fluffy yellow cake, silky whipped filling, and a coating of chocolate resilient enough to let you carry the whole thing around in the palm of your hand. More

BraveTart: Make Your Own Milanos

Santa and Milanos have equally substantiated merits. Santa supposedly rewards children for their behavior and Milanos ostensibly taste good. Both claims remain scientifically impossible to prove, but even so, people continue to believe in them because both point to something beautiful. More

BraveTart: Make Your Own Fig Newtons

Most of my childhood memories center around food and one of the earliest involves Fig Newtons. Before my brother had the audacity to be born on my fourth birthday, I was a painfully shy only child. So when my aunt and cousin drove in from out of town for a visit, I felt slightly terrified. My cousin was a bone fide Big Kid who could ride a bike and stuff. Don't those Big Kids pick on the Little Ones? I didn't plan on sticking around to find out. More

BraveTart: Make Your Own Keebler Fudge Stripe Cookies

Not all 1980s era spokes-creatures suffered at the hands of human children as Lucky the Leprechaun did. Chester Cheetah and Tony the Tiger enjoyed an open dialogue with kids that, while perhaps overstepping the bounds of traditional customer-service interactions, symbolized a new era of peaceful human-mascot relations. But none worked harder to maintain this lasting peace than diminutive Ernest J. Keebler. More

BraveTart: Make Your Own 3 Musketeers

Urban legend has it that some industrial candy snafu botched the names of 3 Musketeers and Milky Way. The tale has a certain logic. 3 Musketeers doesn't have three ingredients but Milky Way does. And the very name Milky Way recalls the smooth, uninterrupted creaminess found in 3 Musketeers. Those kinds of wonky urban legends ran amok in the eighties, but we have the internet now, so let's clear this stuff up. It's not a tasty tabloid tale of "Switched at Birth!" but rather "Murder, She Wrote." More

BraveTart: Peanut Butter Jelly Time

One of my favorite parts of snuggling up to the latest issue of any given food magazine is catching up on restaurant news in cities across America. New York. Boston. San Francisco. Chicago. Lexington. "Wait, Lexington...What state is that even in?" I can hear you asking. More

Bravetart: How To Make Crunchy Nutella at Home

After using my culinary time machine to rip a hole in the fabric of the kitchen space-time continuum, I visited an alternate universe where I discovered Brown Butter Soft Batch Cookies. The responsible time/dimensional traveler would have turned back; patched up the rift and come home straight away. And I promise, I'll do just that. But as long as we're here, I want one more souvenir. You see, I discovered the alternate-universe's Nutella, like peanut butter, comes in both crunchy and creamy. More

Pizza Obsessives: Amy McConnell (aka Atmast)

Amy, seriously, those look insanely perfect. That halo of bubbly crust is killing me! Can we set up a trade? ;)

We Chat With: Pastry Chef Shawn Gawle of Corton

I can vouch for every dessert on the menu. Ah-mazing. I want to be Shawn when I grow up.

Homemade Butterfingers

@fearlessem, I'm sorry to hear of your Butterfinger woes! To be honest, I am not much of a confectioner. I puzzled this recipe out through trial and error but don't have a particularly deep understanding of the process so I'm afraid I don't know how to diagnose what went wrong with your batch (other than to say it seems like some crystallization happened). The peanut mixture is right, it goes on kinda thick, but ultimately it's pretty "fluffy" and compresses as the mixture is rolled out.

At any rate, since posting the recipe I've continued tinkering with it at work. I've just updated it here to reflect those changes; I've cut the molasses with corn syrup and reduced the sugar. I'm hopeful those changes will make the candy easier to work with for those attempting the Butterfingers. If you ever decide to give it a go again, I hope you'll find it better behaved.

Anyone Tried Bittman's Pizza Crust Recipe?

i hate that recipe. it's okay if you're in a major pinch and need dough NOW, but it's really cracker-like.

Anyone Tried Bittman's Pizza Crust Recipe?

i wonder if it's the same recipe from "how to cook everything." cos that one is pretty solidly mediocre.

Snapshots From The Food And Wine Best New Chef Awards

Fun fact: that SAME chicken leg had previously been gnawed on by Ed Levin, Blackbird's Bryce Caron and Kenji before finally being passed on to me. Even as a hand me down, it was delicious.

Oatmeal Creme Pies

@rdub92, using the ounces on a measuring cup will definitely give you the worst cookies ever, and I'm sorry you had to find that out the hard way. :( For example, corn syrup weighs roughly 12 ounces to a cup, not 8 like water, which is how liquid ounce measurements are determined. Likewise, flour weighs about 4.5 ounces to a cup, also unlike the 8 for water. Your measurements would have been significantly off base. I hope you'll give them a shot with a scale so you can experience the intended results. You can get a great digital kitchen scale for about $25 at places like Bed, Bath & Beyond or Target; small price to pay for a lifetime of homemade OCP, no? :)

I would wager the scaling issue also caused trouble with the filling, but having had another report of a runny filling, I'll check the recipe against my method again today at work and see if there's something amiss.

BraveTart: Make Your Own Magic Middles

@Erin, so glad to reunite you two. ;)

@becki, validation!!

@pointypartyhat @fatitalianbroad, I'm intrigued at the conflicting opinion. I wish I'd had the original so I could weigh in!!

@fatitalianbroad, please leave a comment with the recipe if you make these, I'm desperately curious for someone who remembers a Magic Middle to evaluate them!

BraveTart: Oatmeal Creme Pies

@emscookin, You're a speed demon getting to these cookies so fast! :) The syrup cooling too much shouldn't be a problem, it may just be it wasn't as fluffy as you were expecting.

The creme is fairly fluid right after it's made. I pipe a dab in the center and let it spread out on its own toward the edges (which is why it's important to just pipe a quarter sized dollop lest it overflow when the second cookie is added).

If you haven't already pitched the filling you have, you may find it easier to pipe after letting it stand for an hour or two; it will begin to thicken up as the gelatin sets and will be easier to work with. Hope that info helps!

BraveTart: Make Your Own Biscoff Cookies

@aintbaroque, google "bake it so tshirt" and you'll see my favorite shirt to wear to work.

@Julian, next on my list!!

Homemade Biscoff

Sorry for the late reply, I've been out of town!

@tonisan9, you can just leave it out. I've got it in there as literalist recreation of the biscoff recipe, but from a technical standpoint it's not necessary. It adds a bit of nuttiness to the flavor profile. Most Asian markets will sell Kinako in small 3 ounce bags for about a dollar, so it's no huge investment if you ever find yourself somewhere that sells it. I use it in a ton of recipes on my blog, so I can help you polish off the rest. ;)

Homemade Animal Crackers

@Gravitystorm, Oh no! I'm sorry to hear they didn't turn out like you'd hoped. I make them often at work and double checked the recipe for typos, but everything seems to be in order. I can definitely attest that these are not at all tender cookies, but rather extremely crunchy crackers. If you were expecting something like Barnum's, I can understand your disappointment.

Congratulations to Our Own 'Bravetart,' Stella Parks, Food & Wine Best New Pastry Chef

Wow, thank you for such a lovely flood of congratulations. It means a lot to me. :)

@Saria, who could blame you?! Who is it, btw? I'm flying to NYC in just over a week to meet everyone, I'll say hello for you. XD

Homemade Butterfingers

@Kazb0t, these are great with honey! The molasses gives them the characteristic flavor (Butterfinger, Clark Bar & 5th Ave all use it), but I've made it with great success using honey too. Maple syrup behaves a little differently and I'd be less confident about it turning out quite as well.

But yes, 3 folds all together. I've done up to 5, but the flakiness starts to go down hill after 3. As the layers get thinner, so does the peanut/cornflake mixture in between, which means the sugar layers start to come into contact with each other, seeping around the nuts/flakes, then fusing into a solid mass. I found the 4- and 5-fold batches to be more mealy than flakey, almost like a cookie. I ended up taking that batch and grinding it in a food processor and using it as a garnish for ice cream, because it just wasn't fit as a candy bar.

Let me know if you wind up making a batch!

Homemade Brown Sugar Cinnamon Pop-Tarts

@heman8400, wait, do you mean s'mores Pop-Tarts or making s'mores WITH Pop-Tarts? I hope you mean the latter, because that sounds incredibly exciting...

Congratulations to Our Own 'Bravetart,' Stella Parks, Food & Wine Best New Pastry Chef

Thank you all so much! It was a blast to come home from work and read all of these wonderful comments. I seriously

Homemade Chocolate Sprinkles

@Control, alas but no. I tried it; the sprinkles stick to each other as they come out instead of settling down into distinct lines. They're too sticky. :( I'm afraid it's arthritis or bust!

Homemade Chocolate Sprinkles

@jae_em, the vanilla flavor is definitely pronounced and while I really like it that way, don't hesitate to cut back on the vanilla. Just replace whatever you cut with water for the right consistency.

@grumblekitty, if you make sure to use instant COFFEE powder and not espresso powder (a mistake I've made before!), then it's totally unnoticeable. It just gives a bit more dimension to the flavor. Yeah. I'm talking about the dimension of flavor in a sprinkle. Nothing mocha-y or even identifiable as coffee, just a deeper/darker note that intensifies the chocolate. I think you'll like what it does. Fingers crossed.

BraveTart: Make Your Own Chocolate Sprinkles

@carriebwc, they're important for healthy living! ;)

@Lauren, oh that sounds like something that HAS to happen....

@ag3208, yowza!

Homemade Conversation Hearts

@hotcookies, sorry I missed your comment! I had my notifications turned off, apparently. I don't know what to say about the Jello powder, having never used it in this case. I don't know if it would change the final texture or have any unforeseen consequences.

@grumblekitty, It can definitely eat up time making all the different flavors, but if you just pick one favorite flavor, it's much faster. Also, it's super kid-friendly, you can let your son play with the candy dough just like Play-Doh, mushing it around or molding into fun shapes rather than cutting it out.

@cyberroo, thanks for reporting in! Good call on rolling them thinner for a larger shape, could be tooth-breaking otherwise. :) The espresso ones sound awesome!

BraveTart: Make Your Own Butterfingers

@efelliot, indeed the corn flakes listed in the ingredients are something known as "confectioners corn flakes" and it's my understanding that they're the rolled oats of corn, made in flat little sheets rather than grains (maybe grits are the steel cut oats of corn? haha). At this point, I've made the Butterfingers with and without the corn flakes and they're pretty spot on either way, but I am partial to the extra layer of crunch from the Corn Flakes, even if they're not the "real thing." Thanks for the interest...

Snapshots from Japan: Street Fair Food in Kyoto

One of my happiest memories of Japan is walking around with a yakiimo to keep my fingers warm in the dead of January. The other, two skewers of tsukune, which I could eat shamelessly on the lonely walk between the vendor at the subway station and my apartment where I'd almost never run in to anyone. Thanks for this mega shot of nostalgia!!

Homemade Butterfingers

@MoEats, go for it! The original French candy that they're based on was made with almonds.

@CCAAA, it's a reference to someone having "butterfingers" or being clumsy; something like even a "Butterfinger" would manage to hold on to one. They seemed to be a different standard for naming convictions a hundred years ago, I think...

BraveTart: Make Your Own Conversation Hearts

@Maggie, @Carey, Happy Valentine's Day! :)

@HollywithaY, they've really lost their glory, that's for sure...

@Tongo Rad, YES!!!! Ah, that's such genius. I wanted to do some from MST3K, a BSG set, some trek-themed ones, but writing on them proved so incredibly difficult!

Let Them Eat: Red Velvet Cake

I'll refrain from quoting myself from the article on my feelings toward beets in cake. ;)

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