• Location: Canada
  • Last bite on earth: Cadbury's Creme Egg.

Slow-Roasted Beef Tenderloin

Great minds think alike! I'd love to see more food lab stuff on lamb, too.

Life at Sea: The Pleasures and Perils of Nautical Cooking

Well, with a nom dp like Ocean.....

Loved this story, Lauren! BTDT, but on Scottish seas (no peppers, no refrigeration worries, plenty of good coastal pubs, nothing is ever completely dry, including the crew), and my ds was a cordon bleu cook back in the day on a mega yacht, so your experiences brought back many memories, one way and another.

I hope your boys stay safe - the comment in Jon Krakaur's article about Chris McCandless is sobering. The tales you will all tell to your grandchildren some day!

5 Ice Cream Myths That Need to Disappear

KT-S - I'm Scottish, hence the porage suggestion, lol. Next, I'm going to try and make a version of cranachan ice-cream, using red currant jelly, red currant liqueur and golden syrup vs honey. Wish me luck!

5 Ice Cream Myths That Need to Disappear

KT-S I think Max is the expert, but I can tell you what I did, if that's any help.

I warmed a cup of half-and half, and a cup of whipping cream (both organic, so no thickeners etc) so they were warm but not hot, and poured them into the blender. I added approx 1/3 cup of shop-bought lemon curd, and I'd already warmed the golden syrup, and added approx 1/3 cup of that. Whizzed it until there were no lumps of lemon curd left that I could see, then drizzled in 3 tbsp ginger wine. Then chilled it, and once it was cold I churned it in the ice cream machine. Churned for 20 minutes, and froze for a few hours.

I warmed the cream and the syrup because I feared the syrup would stay in a clump. I have an old Aga, so I just put them in the warming oven for an hour.

My thinking was that the ginger wine is super sweet, and the golden syrup is pure sweet, so I didn't add any more sugar. No eggs, either, or vanilla. There wasn't any real egg in the lemon curd.

There was enough for maybe 10 oxo good grips ice cream scoops at a stretch. It's quite a small scoop, but the ice cream is pretty rich! It was perfect last night (made it yesterday) so it'll be interesting to see if it's changed by tonight.

I'd maybe add a bit more ginger wine, or some ginger syrup, next time.

Enjoy your golden syrup. It is the best thing ever to have on porage, or ice cream, or a spoon. :)

5 Ice Cream Myths That Need to Disappear

Max - a heartfelt thanks for all your informative ice-cream articles over the last year or two. I wanted to make a different ice cream for a dinner party, and I combined your various suggestions about booze, cream, sweeteners, and so on, and made a simple ice-cream from lemon curd, cream, Lyle's golden syrup and Stone's Ginger Wine. It turned out extraordinarily perfect - tasty, with just the right consistency: creamy, lemony and gingery, funnily enough!

Grilled Scallion Pancakes

Used this recipe the other evening, but baked them on the floor of the Aga hottest oven, and they were brilliant! Definitely a keeper, fun to make, and the yummy simple dipping sauce was magic.

More Than Just Peat and Smoke: The Best Islay Single Malts

Hm. And to think we can't buy any booze at all at Costco here in Ontario-the-good. yes, that would be Ontario, Canada: the province that has wet dreams about the good old days of prohibition.

More Than Just Peat and Smoke: The Best Islay Single Malts

Wait: what??? WHERE is there a Costco that sells Laphroig???

The Food Lab's Complete Guide to Sous-Vide Steak

Thoroughly fascinating, as always, Kenji: thanks for such a detailed study!

More Than Just Peat and Smoke: The Best Islay Single Malts

I'll step foolishly into the pedantry fray. Whisky is only made in Scotland. Anything made anywhere else is called whiskEy. Same pronunciation, different spelling.

And for the record, it's pronounced gal-ick (rhymes with phal-lick) in Scotland, gaylick in Ireland, etc.

The Real Rules of Making Boozy Ice Cream

Drambuie added to pretty much any ice cream recipe turns it into something really special.

I made your pear and Riesling sorbet the other day, Max, and it was delicious - thanks!

Cooking With Olive Oil: Should You Fry and Sear in it or Not?

I love Greek olive oil, but it's not always as easy to find. Certainly the shelves at the local grocery stores aren't lined with Greek olive oils the way they are with italian and new world bottles.
Which reminds me - must visit the Greek restaurant deli in Kingston, ON, to buy a can of Greek olive oil next time I'm there!

The Real Rules of Making Polenta (Hint: They're Not What Everyone Says)

Beautifully photographed, Daniel!

The Food Lab: How to Make The Ultimate Creamy Spinach Lasagna

Made a double batch of this today, and it turned out well. Used half ricotta and half cottage cheese (we're in Canada where real ricotta is the norm), and it was delicious.

The other shortcuts I took were to whizz the fresh spinach in the food processor briefly before cooking, and then I spread the crumbled spinach loosely in roasting pans and "baked" it, then mixed it into everything else with an electric whisk, which worked out well and was less messy using the doubled amounts. Plus I didn't have to strain the spinach after cooking, as the moisture evaporated while baking.

I do have one HUGE request - we non-Americans would be thrilled if all Serious Eats recipes listed ingredients in grams and millilitres, as well as in lbs, ounces, cups, quarts and pints. American pounds, ounces, and pints are different from British ones, cups don't exist as a measurement in the UK (nor do sticks), and I did find I was constantly googling conversion tables. First world wine, I know...:)

Pork Chops With White Wine and Leek Pan Sauce

I thought it might have been the fact that I didn't give the salted/sugared chops any time to do their thing before I started cooking them. No matter, they were good, the sauce was excellent, and I'll definitely make them this way again.

now thinking of using the same method for a little rack of lamb!

Pork Chops With White Wine and Leek Pan Sauce

Very nice! Although we did find the sauce was pretty salty (and I did use home-made stock, so no extra sodium hidden there).

The Food Lab: Why Chicken With Pan Sauce Is Always Better at Restaurants (and How to Make Yours Just as Good at Home)

Now I knowcwhy I mysteriously bought 1/2 lb loose gelatin at Bulk Barn the other day!

I made this sauce a la Kenji the other day, and it was just as you described - looks and tastes perfect.

I use my own home-made stock or Campbells no-sodium chicken broth. For those in the Ottawa area, you can buy very good frozen stock (chicken, beef, veal and iirc lamb) from the lovely guys at The Butchery in Bells Corners.

April Bloomfield on the 3 Cookbooks Everyone Should Own

Another fan of Delia here....she's one of the TV cooks whose recipes are well thought out and do actually work, always, and taste fantastic, unlike today's current batch of smash n grab types, whose recipes are as dire as their personas.

Love Michael Ruhlman, too.

Freeze Fresh Herbs for Long-Term Storage

We used to be able to buy fresh-chopped frozen herbs in teeny weeny mini ice-cube trays with a red lid, and iirc they were also in oil, not water. So handy, and so missed from our groceries! Anyone see them any more?

Equipment: Why it's Worth Buying an Olive Oil Pourer

Yes, fruit flies LOVE squirming into my bottles of olive oil, blech.

My oils sit on the window sill these days (tsk, tsk!) but the bottles generally fit into those swanky tube tins that our favourite Scotch whiskiesctend to be packaged in: problem solved.

A lot of the olive oils I buy already have ther own wee dripless pourers....but maybe that's a canadian thing? Costco, PC, etc.

Easy Pan-Roasted Chicken Breasts With White Wine and Fines Herbes Pan Sauce

Why a stainless steel pan? Any reason I shouldn't use my serious-eats-seasoned-and-now-nonstick cast iron pan for this?

Cooking With Olive Oil: Should You Fry and Sear in it or Not?

@ Kenji and @James! - ever since I read here on SE that whizzing olive oil in a blender makes whatever it's in taste yucky, I've used butter or coconut oil for my soups (Aga cook, so everything gets roasted in an oven vs on a stove top) and we agree on our little farm in our little community that the soups are noticeably better in flavour. No residual bitterness any more (for which we are seriously grateful to the smart people at Serious Eats).

I do still use the olive oil for roasting veg, or any of Ottolenghi's recipes, though.

@ Daniel - wasn't there a big kerfuffle a few years back about olive oil's dubious bloodlines, though? As in, very little of, for instance, Italian olive oil was actually purely made from olives. If this cast aspersions still holds, then heat tests on "olive oil" might be fairly flawed and/or wide-ranging in their findings, I'd have thought?

The Ultimate Poutine

Costco Canada has extremely good poutine, for anyone looking for a light n healthy lunch when they're travelling across this great country.

The Food Lab's Guide to Slow-Cooked, Sous-Vide-Style Eggs

Or, boil a big pan of water, pull it off the heat, gently break the egg into the water, put a lid on the pan, and check every 5 minutes until the egg looks done the way you like it, lift it out with a holey strainer of some sort, shoogle a bit to flake off the trailers if you find them offensive (I don't), and then slip it on to some hot buttered toast. It really isn't that difficult! Life is too short to fairt around with an egg every morning. Imo, of course.

6 Great Condiments to Complete Your Cheese Plate

Our favourite for any cheese would be quince cheese (not a cheese but an un strained jam), or dried figs warmed slowly with a little honey and water so they've puffed up a bit.

Bigbananafeet hasn't written a post yet.

Mustard Manual: Your Guide to Mustard Varieties

Mustard is one of the oldest condiments and hasn't changed much through the years. In it's essence, mustard is combination of mixing the ground seeds of the mustard plant with liquid, but its the variety of seeds and type of liquid used that creates all the varieties of mustard we know today. More

Knife Skills: How to Slice Scallions

When scallions are used as a base ingredient in a stir-fry or salsa, a fine rough chop will do you just fine. But the beauty of scallions is that they're as pretty as they are flavorful—provided you know how to cut them. Here are the basic knife skills you'll need to produce three different types of garnish-worthy scallion slices. More

The Food Lab: The Best Barbecue Chicken

Barbecue chicken doesn't fall under the strict definition of the Southern term "barbecue," as it is not cooked hot or long enough for connective tissue to break down the way it does in ribs or a pork butt (indeed, there isn't really any connective tissue to break down in the first place), but it does fall under the wider umbrella of "barbecue" which includes any foods cooked slowly (not to be confused with slow-cooked) with the addition of smoke and a barbecue sauce. Of course, all conversation of whether or not it's proper to call it barbecue will end once you all agree that it's delicious. More

Taste Test: A Guide to Black Pepper

There's no shortage of places to get your black pepper from; as one of the world's most popular spices, it's grown all across the world's spice regions, from India to Indonesia to Ecuador and Brazil. We don't talk much about terroir when it comes to spices, but it's worth thinking about. After all, peppercorns are fruits just like grapes, and soil, growing conditions, and variety of peppercorn are all going to have an impact on flavor profile. How strong are these flavor differences, and how do they pan out with food? We tasted peppercorns from seven major growing regions to find out. More

The Food Lab: How to Make Creamy Vegetable Soups Without a Recipe

These days, there aren't too many vegetables in the world that I haven't made into a smooth, creamy soup, and there are even fewer that I've not loved, but my experience has taught me something: the first time I learned how to make a creamy chanterelle soup at my first real restaurant job wasn't really just a recipe for chanterelle soup. It was a blueprint for making any creamy vegetable soup. You just need to break it down into its individual steps and figure out how to universalize them. Here's how it's done. More

The Food Lab: How To Preserve Fresh Spring and Summer Produce

I go a bit nuts every spring and summer when fresh produce is at its best. I end up buying things willy nilly, without much thought as to how I'm going to prepare, much less eat, all of it myself. After several valiant dinner parties and late night asparagus binges, I still find myself with far too much produce to even consider finishing everything before it starts to lose quality. More

Saffron Chicken and Rice With Golden Beets From 'The New Southern Table'

While it may not have the superstar status of other quintessentially Southern ingredients like country ham or collards, rice is a vital part of any Southern table, especially in the low country region around the Carolina coast. Brys Stephens's chapter on rice in his cookbook, The New Southern Table, explores varieties and preparations of the grain from everywhere from Thailand to his own home state of South Carolina. More

Mexican Gorditas (Fried Stuffed Corn Cakes)

Once you eat a Mexican gordita, your life may never be the same again: Corn cakes made from masa dough are pan-fried to create a crisp exterior and a steamy, tender interior, then stuffed with any number of traditional fillings, from spicy beans, to fresh white cheese and tender shredded meats. More

Ultra-Smashed Cheeseburgers

Classic smashed burgers are all about maximizing that deep, brown crust. But I found myself wondering, what if I were to take this to the extreme? Is there a way I could pack even more flavor into a burger? And thus, the ultra-smashed burger was born. Same burger size, but twice the amount of crisp, browned crust. More

Crusty Portuguese bread recipe?

My fiance lived in Portugal when he was a young boy, and he fondly remembers a certain type of bread that his family would buy fresh every day. I'd love to make that same bread for him, but no one... More