Great minds think alike! I'd love to see more food lab stuff on lamb, too.
Well, with a nom dp like Ocean.....
Loved this story, Lauren! BTDT, but on Scottish seas (no peppers, no refrigeration worries, plenty of good coastal pubs, nothing is ever completely dry, including the crew), and my ds was a cordon bleu cook back in the day on a mega yacht, so your experiences brought back many memories, one way and another.
I hope your boys stay safe - the comment in Jon Krakaur's article about Chris McCandless is sobering. The tales you will all tell to your grandchildren some day!
KT-S - I'm Scottish, hence the porage suggestion, lol. Next, I'm going to try and make a version of cranachan ice-cream, using red currant jelly, red currant liqueur and golden syrup vs honey. Wish me luck!
KT-S I think Max is the expert, but I can tell you what I did, if that's any help.
I warmed a cup of half-and half, and a cup of whipping cream (both organic, so no thickeners etc) so they were warm but not hot, and poured them into the blender. I added approx 1/3 cup of shop-bought lemon curd, and I'd already warmed the golden syrup, and added approx 1/3 cup of that. Whizzed it until there were no lumps of lemon curd left that I could see, then drizzled in 3 tbsp ginger wine. Then chilled it, and once it was cold I churned it in the ice cream machine. Churned for 20 minutes, and froze for a few hours.
I warmed the cream and the syrup because I feared the syrup would stay in a clump. I have an old Aga, so I just put them in the warming oven for an hour.
My thinking was that the ginger wine is super sweet, and the golden syrup is pure sweet, so I didn't add any more sugar. No eggs, either, or vanilla. There wasn't any real egg in the lemon curd.
There was enough for maybe 10 oxo good grips ice cream scoops at a stretch. It's quite a small scoop, but the ice cream is pretty rich! It was perfect last night (made it yesterday) so it'll be interesting to see if it's changed by tonight.
I'd maybe add a bit more ginger wine, or some ginger syrup, next time.
Enjoy your golden syrup. It is the best thing ever to have on porage, or ice cream, or a spoon. :)
Max - a heartfelt thanks for all your informative ice-cream articles over the last year or two. I wanted to make a different ice cream for a dinner party, and I combined your various suggestions about booze, cream, sweeteners, and so on, and made a simple ice-cream from lemon curd, cream, Lyle's golden syrup and Stone's Ginger Wine. It turned out extraordinarily perfect - tasty, with just the right consistency: creamy, lemony and gingery, funnily enough!
Used this recipe the other evening, but baked them on the floor of the Aga hottest oven, and they were brilliant! Definitely a keeper, fun to make, and the yummy simple dipping sauce was magic.
Hm. And to think we can't buy any booze at all at Costco here in Ontario-the-good. yes, that would be Ontario, Canada: the province that has wet dreams about the good old days of prohibition.
Wait: what??? WHERE is there a Costco that sells Laphroig???
Thoroughly fascinating, as always, Kenji: thanks for such a detailed study!
I'll step foolishly into the pedantry fray. Whisky is only made in Scotland. Anything made anywhere else is called whiskEy. Same pronunciation, different spelling.
And for the record, it's pronounced gal-ick (rhymes with phal-lick) in Scotland, gaylick in Ireland, etc.
Drambuie added to pretty much any ice cream recipe turns it into something really special.
I made your pear and Riesling sorbet the other day, Max, and it was delicious - thanks!
I love Greek olive oil, but it's not always as easy to find. Certainly the shelves at the local grocery stores aren't lined with Greek olive oils the way they are with italian and new world bottles.
Which reminds me - must visit the Greek restaurant deli in Kingston, ON, to buy a can of Greek olive oil next time I'm there!
Beautifully photographed, Daniel!
Made a double batch of this today, and it turned out well. Used half ricotta and half cottage cheese (we're in Canada where real ricotta is the norm), and it was delicious.
The other shortcuts I took were to whizz the fresh spinach in the food processor briefly before cooking, and then I spread the crumbled spinach loosely in roasting pans and "baked" it, then mixed it into everything else with an electric whisk, which worked out well and was less messy using the doubled amounts. Plus I didn't have to strain the spinach after cooking, as the moisture evaporated while baking.
I do have one HUGE request - we non-Americans would be thrilled if all Serious Eats recipes listed ingredients in grams and millilitres, as well as in lbs, ounces, cups, quarts and pints. American pounds, ounces, and pints are different from British ones, cups don't exist as a measurement in the UK (nor do sticks), and I did find I was constantly googling conversion tables. First world wine, I know...:)
I thought it might have been the fact that I didn't give the salted/sugared chops any time to do their thing before I started cooking them. No matter, they were good, the sauce was excellent, and I'll definitely make them this way again.
now thinking of using the same method for a little rack of lamb!
Very nice! Although we did find the sauce was pretty salty (and I did use home-made stock, so no extra sodium hidden there).
Now I knowcwhy I mysteriously bought 1/2 lb loose gelatin at Bulk Barn the other day!
I made this sauce a la Kenji the other day, and it was just as you described - looks and tastes perfect.
I use my own home-made stock or Campbells no-sodium chicken broth. For those in the Ottawa area, you can buy very good frozen stock (chicken, beef, veal and iirc lamb) from the lovely guys at The Butchery in Bells Corners.
Another fan of Delia here....she's one of the TV cooks whose recipes are well thought out and do actually work, always, and taste fantastic, unlike today's current batch of smash n grab types, whose recipes are as dire as their personas.
Love Michael Ruhlman, too.
We used to be able to buy fresh-chopped frozen herbs in teeny weeny mini ice-cube trays with a red lid, and iirc they were also in oil, not water. So handy, and so missed from our groceries! Anyone see them any more?
Yes, fruit flies LOVE squirming into my bottles of olive oil, blech.
My oils sit on the window sill these days (tsk, tsk!) but the bottles generally fit into those swanky tube tins that our favourite Scotch whiskiesctend to be packaged in: problem solved.
A lot of the olive oils I buy already have ther own wee dripless pourers....but maybe that's a canadian thing? Costco, PC, etc.
Why a stainless steel pan? Any reason I shouldn't use my serious-eats-seasoned-and-now-nonstick cast iron pan for this?
@ Kenji and @James! - ever since I read here on SE that whizzing olive oil in a blender makes whatever it's in taste yucky, I've used butter or coconut oil for my soups (Aga cook, so everything gets roasted in an oven vs on a stove top) and we agree on our little farm in our little community that the soups are noticeably better in flavour. No residual bitterness any more (for which we are seriously grateful to the smart people at Serious Eats).
I do still use the olive oil for roasting veg, or any of Ottolenghi's recipes, though.
@ Daniel - wasn't there a big kerfuffle a few years back about olive oil's dubious bloodlines, though? As in, very little of, for instance, Italian olive oil was actually purely made from olives. If this cast aspersions still holds, then heat tests on "olive oil" might be fairly flawed and/or wide-ranging in their findings, I'd have thought?
Costco Canada has extremely good poutine, for anyone looking for a light n healthy lunch when they're travelling across this great country.
Or, boil a big pan of water, pull it off the heat, gently break the egg into the water, put a lid on the pan, and check every 5 minutes until the egg looks done the way you like it, lift it out with a holey strainer of some sort, shoogle a bit to flake off the trailers if you find them offensive (I don't), and then slip it on to some hot buttered toast. It really isn't that difficult! Life is too short to fairt around with an egg every morning. Imo, of course.
Our favourite for any cheese would be quince cheese (not a cheese but an un strained jam), or dried figs warmed slowly with a little honey and water so they've puffed up a bit.