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Ben Carter

Ben Carter

Memphis Correspondent

Ben has been blogging about wine, food, and more since 2005 from his home town of Memphis.

  • Website
  • Location: Memphis, TN
  • Favorite foods: Rack of lamb, a perfect fritto misto, demi-glace, a well-roasted goat leg, ripe Stilton, rabbit ravioli, and duck in any form you can imagine.
  • Last bite on earth: Simple southern fare, collard greens and fried catfish and crowder peas and other delights, with iced tea and hot cornbread.

How to Make Koolickles, Kool-Aid Soaked Pickles

I've lived my entire life jn Memphis, but just south of us is a region that has greatly influenced our city and the rest of the nation. I'm talking about the Mississippi Delta, the wide swath of northwest Mississippi that lies between the Mississippi and Yazoo Rivers. This region has a rich history of small businesses offering a few other unrelated services to bring in additional revenue. Like the koolickle. Whole dill pickles and Kool-Aid and sugar. That's it. Don't start with sweet pickles—those salty dills are going to get plenty sweet during the aging process. More

Where to Eat Fried Catfish in Memphis: 6 Spots to Try

Fried catfish is a classic Southern dish that, like so many peasant foods around the world, demonstrates how a delicacy can emerge from poverty. The catfish is a bottom feeder, a "trash" fish caught with trot lines and cane poles and stink bait—not with expensive boats or flashy lures. You don't scale it, you skin it. And when it's time to cook, you don't dust it with the refined flour of the upper classes but dredge it in the working man's cornmeal, fry it, and let it drain on brown paper bags. Fried catfish is a favorite in the Memphis area; here are six places to try the real thing. More

How to Make Koolickles, Kool-Aid Soaked Pickles

@apopquizkid There is a weird earthy aroma early in the process, but it mellows out after a week. And if you don't like them after one week, don't be afraid to give it a second week.

How to Make Koolickles, Kool-Aid Soaked Pickles

@toad3000 You could take the advice of @alex_green47 and use sliced Koolickles to make your own fantastic Mark Wahlburger. :)

@gretchenmbarnes Drop back into this thread in a week and let me know how it turned out!

How to Make Koolickles, Kool-Aid Soaked Pickles

@missgarlic: Apologies to the Wheel Inn. A friend of mine from KC never stopped talking about them. :)

How to Make Koolickles, Kool-Aid Soaked Pickles

@SaqibSaab He definitely covered this delicacy in the Feasting on Asphalt cookbook, but thanks for posting the video from the Good Eats episode.

How to Make Koolickles, Kool-Aid Soaked Pickles

@Dennis Lee: I love challenges like that. Mention something like the Kansas City goober burger (topped with peanut butter), and people will claim you're joking. Then it's time to break out the ground beef and Peter Pan creamy.

How to Make Koolickles, Kool-Aid Soaked Pickles

@Shayrose: Sounds good... I think @punkin712 might be on the same track as you.

How to Make Koolickles, Kool-Aid Soaked Pickles

@deliciouslymeta I went to high school within walking distance of the Germantown Commissary. It's still a great place and never disappoints.

How to Make Koolickles, Kool-Aid Soaked Pickles

@cronkz: I did see them on Alton Brown's show. I wish he'd do more of that series. I think it's mostly a kids' treat, although I don't these things had been invented when I was growing up in the late 70s/early 80s.

How to Make Koolickles, Kool-Aid Soaked Pickles

@deliciouslymeta: That's what I've heard them called here in Memphis, but the difference between Memphis and the Delta can be like the difference between Philadelphia and the Pennsylvania Dutch country. Frankly for high school football games, nothing beats the Frito Pie served in the little Fritos bag. :)

How to Make Koolickles, Kool-Aid Soaked Pickles

@Honey Bear: Glad to be of service! If you need to see the more elegant kind of food I make, you can check out my blog post on Provençal Lunch with Château d'Esclans.

How to Make Koolickles, Kool-Aid Soaked Pickles

@Golden Palate: I might dice up a few of these and see how they work in deviled eggs or potato salad. :)

@punkin712: I don't know how much that would change the color, but if you try it let me know how it turns out.

@tea-and-syncope: It is something of an acquired taste. That I have not yet acquired. For all kinds of pickles and relishes, I'm all about the dill/salty/sour/garlic, not sweet. But these regional correspondent posts are about showcasing things unique to our local gastronomic environment.

5-Course Beer and Bacon Dinner at L'École Culinaire in Tennessee

@phicks I'll give it another try on its own in the future. There was a lot of salt and cabbage going on with that dish, which would counteract sweetness. When I'm doing a focused beer tasting, I prefer to do it with a clean palate and eat later.

College Tours: Where to Eat Near The University of Memphis

@dongale Thanks for the additions, and it was hard to narrow down this list. By the way, my girlfriend made the same argument for RP Tracks.

@klp143 I've always felt that the shabbiness of Brother Juniper's was part of its charm. :)

@car1fsu Those are incredible.

Reality Check: Memphis BBQ Thickburger from Hardee's and Carl's Jr.

This is doubly depressing, because A) that's a terrible excuse for BBQ anything, and B) the closest Hardee's is about sixty miles south of Memphis. I'm sure somebody around here puts pulled pork on a burger, but I've never had it. Seems like a big textural conflict, although if it's a weird meat paste like in the photo, perhaps that's not a big problem...

BBQ sauce on a burger can work, but it needs to be one cooked on a real grill over lump charcoal and served with aggressive condiments. Get enough creosote on your palate and you're able to enjoy the more subtle flavors underneath the smoke and spice. Serve with a hearty Zinfandel or Sicilian Nero d'Avola and you won't be able to eat a turkey sandwich for months--it will taste like styrofoam peanuts in comparison.

8 Best Non-Pork Dishes at Memphis BBQ Joints

@benn2009: It is a Memphis institution, and the atmosphere is unrivaled in this town. It's also one of the only big players in town that doesn't have any additional locations. Glad you had a good time and a great meal!

8 Best Non-Pork Dishes at Memphis BBQ Joints

@Knitter: That's always the sign of a classy restaurant. I make smoked chicken a lot at home (apple or cherry wood most of the time for the smoking), so I don't order it a lot in restaurants.

@bklynbaker: Oh, so many stories... My girlfriend and I watched some of the London Olympic Games while eating BBQ tofu nachos for this article.

Soda: My Lifelong Fresca Obsession

Nice thing about Fresca is that between the aspartame and the grapefruit it's just a little bitter, making it somewhat close to tonic water (and thus a good mixer with vodka--add a slice of lemon or orange). I've had the Mexican Fresca Toronja which is made with cane sugar and it's just not the same. Too sweet, a little syrupy... I like it thin and bracing.

Cordova Farmer's Market International: The United Nations of Food In Memphis

@allez On weekends they sometimes do free samples, and there's a little pizza place that's open and a teriyaki bar that will be open soon, so you can grab lunch while you're there. Lots of fun stuff!

@dbrackst But you do have the Downtown (real) Farmers Market, so that evens things out a bit. :)

Cordova Farmer's Market International: The United Nations of Food In Memphis

@belinskaya Likewise, there's little or no advertising around here, but a ton of word of mouth. I've always stocked up for dinner parties there, where I can get so many wonderful flavors for such low prices. Even buying shallots is a big difference, and they're better quality. I like to take friends for their first visit, and always encourage them to pick out a fruit or vegetable they've never had before.

Cordova Farmer's Market International: The United Nations of Food In Memphis

@Mr. Nick It's actually an English word that's been around for centuries, and is the polite term for the butcher industry.

@SinoSoul The gallery/tour format doesn't really provide the right space for investigative journalism, but there's been a lot written about both locations here in town. Like this article, which may answer some of your questions. Thanks for reading!

Ever Tried Peanuts in Coke?

I was forbidden from doing this as a child because it fell under the category of "playing with your food", and the one time I tried it at a friend's house I was underwhelmed. However, I know plenty of people that like it, and that includes someone I currently work with. He usually drops $2 to grab a 20 oz. Coke and a 4 oz. pack of salted peanuts from the vending machines, and then carefully combines the two into this bizarre cocktail.

The comedian Tim Wilson had a joke about this that went something like, "The only thing Coke is missing is additional fat and sodium. Need to bring on the heart attack quicker."

A Sandwich a Day: Las Tortugas Oreja de Elefante Torta in Memphis

@allez: I'm the same way, and I've submitted a lot of those kind of story pitches. I'll cover some of the well-known things, but we have such a great diversity of food here.

@swanlady: Thanks for the correction, and it is delicious! Thanks for reading, and you'll see more interesting coverage from Memphis in the future.

A Sandwich a Day: Las Tortugas Oreja de Elefante Torta in Memphis

monopod: It's just right--not skimpy, but not so much that pieces are falling out everywhere.

bklynbaker: I graduated from GHS, but back then we mostly hung out at the West St. Diner and the Commissary... which may be making appearances here in the future. Stay tuned!

Where to Eat Fried Catfish in Memphis: 6 Spots to Try

@fayethorn The landscape has changed a lot, but we'll never forget some of those great places like The Hungry Fisherman. A great part about writing this article was hearing new suggestions from so many readers--I've got a lot of places to try this summer.

Where to Eat Fried Catfish in Memphis: 6 Spots to Try

@Sethward: Yes, people eat buffalo and carp and other things here. You can even buy whole ones in some grocery stores, and there are a few really small places that will have buffalo on the menu. I've got to be honest, I'm not a huge fan of buffalo, but I know a lot of people have the same feelings about catfish. The whole catfish preparation used to be a lot more common, but is harder to find these days.

How to Make Koolickles, Kool-Aid Soaked Pickles

I've lived my entire life jn Memphis, but just south of us is a region that has greatly influenced our city and the rest of the nation. I'm talking about the Mississippi Delta, the wide swath of northwest Mississippi that lies between the Mississippi and Yazoo Rivers. This region has a rich history of small businesses offering a few other unrelated services to bring in additional revenue. Like the koolickle. Whole dill pickles and Kool-Aid and sugar. That's it. Don't start with sweet pickles—those salty dills are going to get plenty sweet during the aging process. More