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From Talk

Thanksgiving dessert, I'm serving pie and ______

Pumpking Pie using the recipe from the Libby's label.

From Talk

Music to chew by: what to play during Thanksgiving dinner?

Football on the TV in the living room and conversation at the table. Thanksgiving is about family and tradition, right?

From Serious Eats

'Next Iron Chef': The Finale

Another good chef leaves the kitchen. It makes me recall a comment from one of my instructors, "If cooking is so great, why is everyone working so hard to get out of the kitchen?"

From Serious Eats

Proposed Farm Bill Supports Small Cheesemakers

I'll bet no matter what form it finally takes, the artisan farmers who need support get very little while the corporate farmers like Chevron get zillions.

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Recent Comments | Response to Comments

From Talk

Thanksgiving dessert, I'm serving pie and ______

Pumpking Pie using the recipe from the Libby's label.

From Talk

Music to chew by: what to play during Thanksgiving dinner?

Football on the TV in the living room and conversation at the table. Thanksgiving is about family and tradition, right?

From Serious Eats

'Next Iron Chef': The Finale

Another good chef leaves the kitchen. It makes me recall a comment from one of my instructors, "If cooking is so great, why is everyone working so hard to get out of the kitchen?"

From Serious Eats

Proposed Farm Bill Supports Small Cheesemakers

I'll bet no matter what form it finally takes, the artisan farmers who need support get very little while the corporate farmers like Chevron get zillions.

From Serious Eats

Value Vino for Turkey (and Sides) Day

I know most will disagree with me but... Over the last 20 years or so I am finding less and less interest in wines; probably the "Robert Parker effect". While I still have wine on the table for guests, I'll be having a burbon old fashioned with my dinner.

From Serious Eats

Turkey Talk 2007 With Christopher Kimball of Cook's Illustrated

I must say I agree with his comment that many foodies are bored and looking for the new thing.

From Serious Eats

Turkey Talk 2007 With Christopher Kimball of Cook's Illustrated

I'm a vegetarian and I love green beans, but guess what--I LOVE America's Test Kitchen on PBS. Since Julia Child and the Frugal Gourmet, it was the first show that got me watching food TV since I was a kid.

Do I agree with everything Mr. Kimball says? No. But at least he has a strong opinion, and he's friggin' hilarious when he says it--and that's better than trying to please all the people and all the palates all of the time. I find a bit of arrogance charming, and I take it with a pinch of (artisanal sea) salt.

CI's and ATK brownies and cookies and pretty much all dishes that you DO need a certain science behind are sensational and foolproof. Even for idiot beginning cooks like me.

And even if I don't agree with all of the scientific tests and test tastes, I find it interesting to see what the results are, even if they aren't some pronouncement from on high.

From Serious Eats

Turkey Talk 2007 With Christopher Kimball of Cook's Illustrated

I'm a big fan of CI and ATK. (Though I do agree with some poters in another thread about Cook's Country being just ATK on a different set)
What Kimball and his team do is so informative and unbiased. The hows and whys of each recipe are explained in plain language; I learn something from each article. And the absence of advertising is so refreshing. Have you read a Bon Appetit lately? It's got more ads than Glamour! And some of the articles? Rich beautiful people in lavish home eat gorgeous food with rich beautiful friends. Please! It's not just food porn, it's lifestyle porn!!

From Serious Eats

Turkey Talk 2007 With Christopher Kimball of Cook's Illustrated

I subscribed to CI for several years. I always enjoyed reading it, and had good results with the recommendations and recipes. I still have them.

However, I bought the Mr Kimball's book, Yellow Farmhouse Cookbook, and many of the recipes didn't work for me at all. I gave it away.

From Serious Eats

Turkey Talk 2007 With Christopher Kimball of Cook's Illustrated

Fully agree with Julie about the pompous Mr. Kimball and the annoying our-way-is-the-only-way tone of CI. His pretentious essays are one of the reasons why I stopped buying the print version of the magazine, which I have subscribed to (in one form or another) since the charter issue in 1993. Instead, I subscribe to the Web version, where I can avoid his horrible homilies and also gain access to the entire archives with a simple search function rather than having to comb through back issues. Despite my issues with him and the magazine's tone , I still find CI useful, especially their equipment and product testings (the latter of which I take with a grain of salt since their results frequently contradict themselves).

From Serious Eats

'Next Iron Chef': The Finale

p.s. the reason I harp on the chef's backgrounds (and suggest that it makes the 8-week contest just 'entertainment' rather than a valid competition) is also this: in the Iron Chef America show so far over the past few years, what have we usually seen?

Every time Bobby Flay cooks, we see him trotting out all his southwestern techniques and ingredients. Every single time. And Mario Batali always cooks in Italian style. Always. Its considered a strength, and oftentimes it is how they win their battles. Going with what they know. They're not embarrassed by it.

And during the tasting at the end of each show, they can explain where the context of every dish came from. Where they encountered it, what its origins are. They are really 'contemporary food historians'.

So, it's easy to see that Michael Symon is also going to revert back to his strong suit in each show as well. Why wouldn't he? It's what will help him win. But what does he have to say about food in the larger sense?

Whereas, if John Besh had won, we would have had a conduit into the rich food traditions of New Orleans: creole and cajun cooking, southern cooking, the French and Spanish influence, Caribbean influence.

This is a clear 'fork in the road' that FoodNetwork was confronted with and I think that their new direction towards homey, non-star chefs underpins the way the contest went.

Think about it: they're using a test which involves cooking an in-flight meal to determine which of these two chefs winds up on Iron Chef America? It's outlandish. Where the heck is the relevance in that, to designing a properly informative and engaging TV show like ICA? Okay, Symon 'wins' the airline meal ribbon. Still: is he the best chef to have on the show? Bobby Flay might have lost that airline round, but he is still obviously a really great choice for Iron Chef.

I see the point many have made about preferring down-home cooks. Okay, that's a matter of opinion I suppose. But for my money, FoodNetwork already has too many bland, suburban, housewife-ey cooks, rather than top-notch chefs in its programming.

We have now: two shows from Rachel Ray, the Gourmet Next Door, that tall blonde soccer-Mom (daytimes) 2DudesCatering, Everyday Italian, Paula Dean, two guys who show us how to cook for parties (the guy from Napa Valley and the other dude), and a dozen others! Looks like 70% of FN programming is geared to low-budget meals!


From Serious Eats

'Next Iron Chef': The Finale

Can't go along with your logic or your analogy. The Beatles didn't invent rock'n'roll. They were interpreting something that was already established in America--the real birthplace of blues and rock. To make your analogy work with regard to Michael Symon and Mediterranean food, you'd have to posit a Beatles group that had never heard Elvis or any American blues at all, and expect them to still be as good.

1)
I maintain that where Symon hails from is a crucial matter. Because we're talking about authenticity here. The real power these chefs have, is because they present themselves as figures of integrity and authority in a certain branch of regional food. They've trained and explored at length, in a rich local food heritage, which finds its way into their cooking. Food is culture. The way that local Spanish chefs make a meat sauce in Barcelona or the way that sushi chefs in make miso in Kyoto was the heart of the original Iron Chef show.

Else, why did the original Iron Chef Japan have each chef represent a major world cuisine? Iron Chef French, Iron Chef Italian, Iron Chef Chinese. This makes eminent sense and was a fundamental part of the program's success. This methodology provides a way to learn about food in a systematic way, rather than piecemeal.

And although it was not stated as such, this is clearly what Iron Chef America was mimicking with it's lineup. But now, they've unraveled this simple and effective arrangement--because Symon comes from the sucking void that is Cleveland, where he does his own thing--whatever that is. He hasn't traveled, but poses as an expert in Greek food. Okay, so where is the authenticity? Where is the depth? What can he transmit to us directly from the Greek food culture? You tell me. Is he capable of doing authentic dishes or just Cleveland, Ohio's version?

I mean, what is more important here? That we have a dumbed-down 'American Chef' program so that suburbanites can feel comfortable in the kitchen, or can we keep the integrity high and come to grips with the fact that the greatest cuisine in the world springs from sources outside our own country? French, Italian, Greek, Chinese, Japanese, Latin--let's stop pretending these are American creations and turn to the sources. Or, if we stick to American regions, then go with Southwest, Italian, Southern, or Californian. But pray tell what can any of us learn from Cleveland?


2)
And my other point is that he is also redundant in a show with two other Mediterranean chefs. What sense does this make? Or doesn't redundancy bother anyone else but me?


3)
But I guess my beef is with the way the producers handled this whole affair. I mean, there are so many places along the way, or in the concept itself, where you can see strings being pulled and events being rigged. Someone else mentioned, for instance, that it was obvious an ethnic chef with a thick foreign accent (Chef Marou) or another female chef weren't going to be chosen, right from the start. Food for thought.


Or, how convenient was it that one chef got slammed for 'failing to salt his dish properly' when, (behind the scenes) it was an ice bath which accidentally spoiled his dish at the last minute? And then this whole thing about Ruhlman and Symon going back nine years, and Ruhlman having some kind of personal preference for the midwest? And then Ruhlman jumps on Besh because his consomme wasn't clear enough? Come on. What I'm saying is that this is hardly a realistic competition to begin with.


The competition stages are interesting (and make good television) but they shouldn't be the total criteria on which a new chef for this show was chosen. Remember that when 'The Next Food Network Host' was chosen, two finalists reach the endgame and then FoodNetwork viewers voted.
Obviously the benefit of such a scheme is that it eliminates all the chefs who actually made drastic mistakes. But to eliminate John Besh from a silly final round battle in Kitchen Stadium against Symon?

Also, I hardly think Chef Symon blew anything 'out of the water'. His dishes were sloppy and insipid where Besh's were complex and composed. There was an imbalance in the silly choice of stage-winners each time. 'For example, Symon won the 'Resource test' how? By preparing a 'family style' plate and giving each judge a glass of juice?

In my opinion, losing the 'Artistry test' so badly that it nearly eliminates you from competition is a key reason not to add a chef to a cooking *television show*. Such a show is all about artistry. A contrived reality-show 'contest' (using the word 'contest' very loosely here) shouldn't be taken so seriously that we (or FoodNetwork) forget that this is television. If they're going to carefully import Michael Symon into the program, fine. But I'm calling it a hideously bad decision, and the excuse that "well this WAS a contest" is more of a smokescreen than anything else.

From Serious Eats

Value Vino for Turkey (and Sides) Day

We served a 2004 Leveroni Pinot Noir. Lovely red, that held up well alongside the turkey with wild rice sausage stuffing. We let it breathe for about an hour before serving.

From Serious Eats

'Next Iron Chef': The Finale

I don't agree that Symon is disastrous for the show. I think he has personality and will grow into a great on-camera presence. Where Symon is from is hardly an intelligent reason for dismissing his abilities and potential. (Following that mentality into music we'd have ignored the Beatles when they came on the scene. I mean, it's not like any great rock and roll music had ever came out of the UK....) Besides, this isn't Iron Chef France, it's Iron Chef America and I prefer Symon because I'm not interested in another pretentious erudite who can show me the cuisine of the world (there are plenty of travel-food shows I can watch for a global food passport if that's my wont), I want someone who harkens more toward myself as an average American - who can come from this (as some apparently consider) "humble" beginning to create Iron Chef quality creations.

Besh was barely consistant, often good but rarely great, and I didn't perceive that he was going to get any better, where as Symon blew the socks off the judges when he was great, and seemed to learn from his mistakes and adapt and grow with humility and grace despite his "crass" personality.

On the subject of the direction FN is going - I agree; we're headed down a slippery slope here. It's great that it's being enjoyed by more people now, people who never considered themselves to be great cooks. It's increased the knowledge and skill of the average cook and convinced people who shied away from the kitchen that they, too, could create wonderful dishes; and I believe the large part of that was the introduction of non-pretentious, more relateable personalities. It made good food, and its preparation, more tangible to the average person. I started really watching FN when The Naked Chef came on - it was fresh and new and I could relate to it.

That being said - they need to find a healthy balance. I enjoy watching Ace of Cakes - his personality is refreshing and edgy, but he's professional and that balance allows me to enjoy his show but take his advice seriously. I perceive Symon to be the same way. However; though I haven't seen that Two Dudes catering or whatever it's called yet, only saw a commercial for it - it was heinous. It conjured images in my mind of these guys standing on opposite sides of a garage packaging food, tossing something across to each other, dropping it, and picking it up off of the grease-ridden garage floor and packaging it. I'm sure that's not really how it is, but that's where that commercial took me in my mind.

FN needs to take a step back and make sure they're maintaining a balance between approachable, personable, and professional.

From Serious Eats

'Next Iron Chef': The Finale

FYI, Alton Brown was interviewed last week in a New York newspaper and vigorously denied that Batali is leaving 'Iron Chef'. Make of that what you may.

I myself am hugely disappointed with the choice of Michael Symon. I'm ceasing my viewership of this show, it is abominable that they chose this guy.

Why? For one, he is from CLEVELAND. None of the world's great cuisines come from Ohio, last time I checked. French-trained John Besh would have been a valuable conduit to American audiences (via Iron Chef) for French cooking. How they overlook this is beyond me.

Seriously--to have an Iron Chef program with three Mediterranean-style cooks and two specifically Greek-style chefs is ludicrous. Michael Symon is redundant because the show already has Cat Cora.

John Besh is simply more depthful, more intriguing. He diverges from the whole 'garlic, oil, lemon' style of cooking which characterizes so many other chefs.

And side by side, Besh is simply the better pick for this TV show. He excels in the 'artistry' side of food where Symon is sloppy (almost getting eliminated for his lack of artistry early in the competition).

Remember, this program is purely a visual show--we cannot taste what the judges taste. What a chef's dishes look like, therefore, is crucial for viewers. If we see a fabulous creation that captures our imagination, we will remember it long after the episode closes. It's what made the original Iron Chef show so powerful: mesmerizing visuals. Yet, the network lets Besh-the-artist go home and keeps Symon-the-slob. It's absurd.

Further point: Besh is smooth, polished, erudite and worldly, suave--the camera loves him-- whereas Symon is a bit of a midwestern boor. He' s a slouch, crass; he's loud and awkward. In the series tests, he was underconfident and lost his cool occasionally. Just not a guy to emulate.

So, I think letting this unfold the way it did was one of the worst decisions FN could have made and I agree this network is headed down the wrong path. They may have thought they were doing the right thing but it is clearly not the best thing for the show.

signed,
Cortez

p.s. And I am flabbergasted at the intelligence that Ruhlman and Symon go back 9 years. That is totally a conflict of interest.

From Talk

Thanksgiving dessert, I'm serving pie and ______

No pie this year - pumpkin creme brulee and a pear-tart cherry crisp.

From Talk

Thanksgiving dessert, I'm serving pie and ______

We had apple pie, pumpkin pie, brownies and fruit at ours (as you know :)).

Hillary
Chew on That

From Serious Eats

'Next Iron Chef': The Finale

I'm kinda skeptical about an ABC News report that can't go back and fact-check Giada De Laurentiis' name.

From Serious Eats

'Next Iron Chef': The Finale

@blondee47: I'm not quite sure if I understand why you're upset with Amy Pataki.

If I'm reading your comments here correctly, you had not read her October 6 article until yesterday (Nov. 12). At which point you took issue with her Toronto Star piece spoiling the ending.

However, you had chosen to click through to the "continued" part of this post, which clearly stated there would be spoilers.

So I'm confused as to why you're retroactively upset with Ms. Pataki when this very post should have served as a spoiler, negating anything that may have been in that October 6 newspaper story.

From Serious Eats

'Next Iron Chef': The Finale

Adam if u want to read her reply email me personally and i will forward it to her...she replied promptly

From Serious Eats

Turkey Talk 2007 With Christopher Kimball of Cook's Illustrated

Mr. Kimble's comment about green beans is just one example of the many reasons I find him unappealing, often wrong (sometimes very, very wrong) about a "Best Recipe."

I agree with Julie, Mr. Kimble comes across as an arrogant know-it-all and I cannot stand to watch him on television...I happen to love green beans but find Mr. Kimble disgusting!!

I must add that ONE OF my favorite recipe for pancakes came from Mr. Kimble's "Best Recipes" book but I shudder with disgust every time I think about the title of his cookbooks....What arrogance!!! To think you can come up with recipes superior to anyone else's.

From Talk

Thanksgiving dessert, I'm serving pie and ______

My husband makes sweet potato pie and I make an apple cranberry pudding from Maida Heatter's Classic American Desserts. Sometimes we make turkey shaped sugar cookies and the kids decorate them. I am also thinking of Dorrie Greenspan's all-in-one cake with pumpkin and apples and maple sugar icing.

We definately need something chocolate-y though and the jury's out on what it will be. anyone have a suggestion?

From Talk

Thanksgiving dessert, I'm serving pie and ______

So far we're having: p
pumpkin pie,
pecan pie
7 layer bars/magic cookies/hello dollys/insert what you call them here (graham cracker crust, choc. chips, coconut, walnuts, drizzle w/condensed milk and bake. try not to eat the whole pan at one time)

I'm considering some kind of fruit tart. Maybe cabernet poached pears w/chocolate? We made one in school and it was incredible. I was downing the left over pears- never thought I'd like them but I did.

From Serious Eats

'Next Iron Chef': The Finale

I am sad that Mario has left, but I think that food network tries to provide something for everyone. I am a mother of three and I like to cook, but i don't always have a lot of time. I like semi-homemade because of that. Most of the other shows have things that are too involved. Alton Brown gives you the why and how to do things. And most of the time, my kids will eat the recipes I get from Good Eats.
I thought they were neck and neck until the show in Paris. I don't really know anything about "fine" cuisine, but those cock's combs were just GROSS!!

From Serious Eats

Turkey Talk 2007 With Christopher Kimball of Cook's Illustrated

Ummm, ok. I can see I'm not in the majority here. I do like CI, and I respect their in-depth testing methodology -- which does not, however, ALWAYS result in fool-proof recipes.

The real problem is that Chris Kimball is a overly opinionated prig, who thinks that there's only one right way to do everything -- his way. He thinks everyone should toe the line and follow CI and ATK recipes to the letter, instead of adapting them to personal tastes or even based on their own cooking experience -- and yes, some of us actually have some prior cooking experience.

I much prefer reading and culling suggestions from cooks whose philosophy embraces change and adaptation. I may discover an extraordinary way of making roast turkey, and if so, I'd recommend it highly. That doesn't mean I'd tell everyone that every other way of making turkey is crap, because it isn't. There's more than one way to skin a cat, roast a turkey, or make a Thanksgiving meal. Some of us are actually grateful for the presence of some refreshing green dishes on the groaning Thanksgiving table, despite what Chris thinks.

From Talk

Thanksgiving dessert, I'm serving pie and ______

My Thanksgiving table will be filled with 100% local ingredients this year. For dessert, I'm making an apple, goat cheese and honey tart. All the ingredients (even the flour) are Virginia Grown!!

From Serious Eats

Turkey Talk 2007 With Christopher Kimball of Cook's Illustrated

Lovely to see this article. I'm a devoted fan of ATK and CI - I refer to The New Best Recipe as my "cooking Bible." And hey, if he doesn't care for green beans, all the more for me! (He can have my share of Brussels sprouts.)

From Serious Eats

'Next Iron Chef': The Finale

@blondee47: The Amy Pataki story has a very large photo of Michael Symon and says that Guy Rubino competed against Symon for an episode of Iron Chef that will air in January. That seems to me to give away the Next Iron Chef winner, despite the use of the hedged description "prospective Iron Chef."

From Serious Eats

'Next Iron Chef': The Finale

Excuse me, I read further and the following is an email i sent out to Amy Pataki of the Toronto Star and to those that program Food Network Canada my words were harsher...

Dear Amy
Please refer yourself to this website and then answer my question,

http://www.seriouseats.com/required_eating/2007/11/next-iron-chef-the-finale-michael-symon-vs-john-besh.html..

Why would u print this knowing the Food TV canada is episodes behind the US and therefore we Torontonians and Montrealers who follow the show do not know the end result.....now we do......and what does it mean Prospective Iron Chef Michael Sumon? Unfortunately now even the Americans anticipation has been spoiled...is this truly fair? even if it does promote Guy

Shame on u Amy....

Natalie Sztern

From Serious Eats

'Next Iron Chef': The Finale

As a Montrealer i read the link and i did not see anything about a current winner in the next iron chef nor any spoilage....I find it interesting tho because being canadian we are not current in our Next Iron Chef shows and are episodes behind..so Amy Pataki of the Toronto Star would not reveal details that she knows her fans have not yet seen....There is an error in your post today....

From Serious Eats

'Next Iron Chef': The Finale

Being from Louisiana, I am a little disappointed. I was pulling for Besh. He does remind me of Flay...

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