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Andrew Strenio

Andrew Strenio

Spirits Sipper

Many years ago, my father took me out for dinner to a local steakhouse. Oyster apps, a dry-aged ribeye, and a miracle of a merlot made it a magical father-son bonding experience. But as I woke up slightly hung over the next morning, all I could taste was lingering malt and peat - a gift from my first glass of single malt Scotch [as well as a bonus for passing out without brushing my teeth]. From that moment on, I've been hooked on the hard stuff. When I'm not at work as a producer for documentary TV programs, you can find me seeking out the most delicious distillates and hard to find hooch from around the world.

  • Location: Brooklyn, NY
  • Favorite foods: Drinks? Though I started on peaty Islay single malts, my favorites fluctuate over time. Whisky [and whiskey] is king, but I'm an equal opportunity imbiber. Current favorites are new American gins, artisanal mezcals, and Moutai believe it or not.
    p.s. I also love food [duh]
  • Last bite on earth: Last drink would be a Pappy 15, last bite would be an egg on something from last night's dinner, with a drizzle of homemade pan sauce reduction. Mmmm repurposed eggfast.

New Wild Turkey Bourbon: Russell's Reserve Small Batch Single Barrel

Being the Master Distiller of a mega-brand of bourbon has its perks. Jimmy Russell, the steady hand behind Wild Turkey, not only has the distinct pleasure of working with his son, Eddie (Associate Master Distiller), but also has the chance to stake his territory on the bourbon landscape. His latest release, Russell's Reserve Small Batch Single Barrel, brings to the market one authoritative vision of what bourbon ought to be. And it's a vision we can get behind. More

New Mystery Whiskey: Michter's Original Sour Mash Whiskey

As a spirits reviewer, I'm constantly inundated by creation myths, marketing smoke-and-mirrors that make a bottle sound extra-enticing. The recently released Michter's Original Sour Mash Whiskey is supposedly the resurrection of a long defunct formulation of Sour Mash Whiskey from the original Michter's distillery in Schaefferstown, PA. Listing at a suggested $44 per 750mL bottle, this could easily become a go-to whiskey when you're on the bourbon-rye fence. More

Awesome New Single Pot Still Irish Whiskey: Powers John's Lane

Irish whiskey is experiencing a bit of a renaissance these days. Though the category has often been overlooked by connoisseurs and critics alike, there's no better time to be a supporter. Just in time for St. Patrick's day, Powers John's Lane is coming stateside, and giving Red Breast 12 Cask Strength (which I've previously considered the best Irish whiskey available in the US) a run for its money. More

Gin Revival: The Return of Tanqueray Malacca

Would you be surprised if I told you that Tanqueray was ahead of the curve of the new gin movement? In 1997, they released what was perhaps the most revolutionary gin to come out of a major English distillery to date. Malacca, based on a recipe by Charles Tanqueray from the grand old year 1839, was a revelation to many in the burgeoning cocktail scene. A softer, citrus-forward gin, uniquely suited for mixing in the new wave of drinks created by barmen across the country, Malacca instantly developed cult status. Unfortunately for its newfound following, Malacca was taken off shelves in 2001. It's back now, and I can't recommend this gin highly enough. More

3 Central and Eastern European Spirits You Should Know

There's a shelf in every liquor store that gets less love than the others—you know the shelf I'm talking about. It's usually tucked away in the corner, gathering dust, filled with bottles with hard to pronounce names: the grab bag of foreign booze! Today we're going to demystify a few essential spirits that hail from Central and Eastern Europe. More

The Serious Eats Guide to Japanese Whisky

Japan has the largest number of whisky distilleries after Scotland and the United States, but up until very recently, Suntory was the only brand of Japanese whisky available for sale in the US. Almost all Japanese whiskies are made in a Scotch-like style: here's our guide to what's available stateside and what these whiskies taste like. More

More New White Whiskey: Jacob's Ghost from Jim Beam

The white whiskey wars continue! If you were excited by the pending release of the Jack Daniel's unaged Tennessee rye but put off by the steep asking price, then look no further. The latest release from Jim Beam, Jacob's Ghost White Whiskey, is positioning to steal JD's thunder and undercut their price point. And no, it's not just a spooky spirit—this whiskey has real potential to become a mainstay in bars and liquor cabinets across the country. More

Great White Whiskey: New Unaged Rye from Jack Daniel's

Apparently Jack Daniel's is interested in bringing a rye whiskey to market, so they've tinkered with a new mashbill for the first time since Prohibition. But the results coming off the still were so good that they decided to release a limited quantity of that juice straight to the public. It's a pretty gutsy move, and I'm not sure whether it's a response to the explosion in craft distilleries offering their white dogs to the public, or whether they want to build visibility for the eventual release of their aged rye. Either way, it's easily the best white whiskey I've tried in quite some time. More

Beyond Small Batch: Single Barrel Whiskeys

Single barrel whiskey is an increasingly visible (and exciting) trend in bottling from not only small batch distillers and newcomers looking to differentiate themselves, but also major established players with affordable top shelf options. Let's take a look at what exactly "single barrel" means, and why it makes sense to get your hot hands on a bottle, pronto. More

Can Flavored Vodkas Actually Taste Good?

When it comes to the world of flavored vodka, I usually stick with the king: gin. However, every now and then there is a place on my bar for the other stuff (usually when a party looms). While many of the options range from the sickly sweet to the disgustingly bizarre, there are actually some pretty tasty and unique options out there if you know where to look. More

Move Over Maker's Mark: Heaven Hill's Larceny Has Your Number

I see Larceny as Heaven Hill Distilleries' direct challenge to Maker's—both products are wheated bourbons, where wheat is used instead of rye in the mashbill, resulting in a smoother, rounder flavor rather than the spice and fruitiness you get from rye. There's a pretty colorful story behind the name involving a treasury agent who snuck samples from the warehouse and years of creative historical revision, but I always believe that boozing trumps branding—it's what's in the bottle that counts. And this one's a winner. More

We Try the New Bulleit 10-Year Aged Bourbon

@arbeck The fact sheet being circulated by Bulleit states that "a select number of Bulleit Bourbon barrels were set aside to age for ten years to see how the already award-winning bourbon would develop," though it's certainly possible that the bottles now seeing wide release are different juice. I'll get back in touch for clarification and post any response I can get.

Also, you're absolutely right regarding the age statement - ages are going to vary from bottle to bottle and since it's labeled as straight bourbon the only legal requirement is that it's older than 4 years. However, Jim Bulleit has been pretty vocal about the approximate age of his bottlings as between 6-8 years. Of course that statement can definitely be taken with a grain of salt (or a dram of whiskey!), so thanks for raising that issue.

http://chicagoist.com/2008/04/10/interview_tom_b.php

Also, with the reopening of Stitzel-Weller it will be interesting to see if Diageo begins to distill Bulleit in-house going forward...

Distilled Beer: New IPA Whiskey from Charbay

@shaithisx Oops, minor typo that we're fixing. It's more like 10 to 1, so that 6,000 gallons beer yielded 590 gallons of whiskey. Thanks for the catch!

Great White Whiskey: New Unaged Rye from Jack Daniel's

@Wade Woodard

Regarding not having heard from the TTB, the PR rep states:

"the TTB ruled that it should be labeled as a 'neutral spirit'"

He goes on to confirm that it's distilled at 140 proof and that JD strenuously argued for designation as "unaged rye" instead of neutral spirit. I suppose it's possible that the PR rep straight up lied, but I would be surprised that any media relations guy would think he could get one over on Chuck. I'll be happy to post an update when (if) we do hear from the TTB.

In my opinion that's a dumb ruling - whiskey mashbill, low-proof distilling (if they got that spirit through 190 proof distilling, well, they're doing something magical), the same recipe and method supposedly headed to barrels to age to become a rye whiskey - and it sure as heck tastes like unaged whiskey. So it's an unaged whiskey for the purpose of telling people about what's in the bottle.

I did include the link to Chuck's blog for anyone who is interested, but the juice really is the headline here, and in the end this digression isn't the focus of the review.

Tasting the Range: Bushmills Irish Whiskey

@Sov Thanks for your comment. This is actually a pretty in-depth topic, which is why I didn't get into it in a review of several whiskeys as I wanted them to be the focus, but perhaps I should write a longer piece on all the different types of whiskeys (and whiskies). One could write a whole post on spelling variations alone... but let's sort this out!

Let me put out some quick working definitions (by no means exhaustive, as they get very technical fast):

Single Malt: 100% aged malted barley whiskey from one distillery
Blended Malt (formerly called vatted malt or pure malt): blended single malt whiskeys from different distilleries
Blended Whiskey: practices do vary a bit, but in general this is grain whiskey blended with aged malt whiskeys
Single Barrel (sometimes Single Cask): the product of a single barrel or cask, with some water added to bring it down to proof
Single Barrel Cask Strength: one barrel, into the bottle. that's it.

There are other categories also... bourbon, bottled in bond, canadian whisky, rye, etc, etc...

Tricky stuff. But the fact of the matter is that yes, in general single malt whiskeys are actually a blend of a bunch of different barrels of aged whiskey from a single distillery. This is how distillers are able to achieve a consistent product since, as you correctly note, each individual barrel will have variations in taste and color due to the vagaries of the aging process. The master blender tastes all of his barrels, and using his artful skill in the craft acquired through years and years of experience, she is able to orchestrate the blending of these barrels into an expression that people the world over know and love. The age indicated on a bottle of a single malt is the age of the youngest whiskey used to achieve that expression. So you can really read those as "x years or older."

Also it's not true that "all whiskeys are generally aged at least 4 years." There's been a trend recently towards early releases of a new whiskey, young (6 months!) whiskey, and white dog (unaged whiskey) hitting the market. "Whiskey" is a tremendously broad category - a distilled spirit made from fermented grain. That's all you have to do to make whiskey, aging isn't required. This is precisely why there are all of these subdivisions to differentiate different products!

It is a little unclear in this post, but both Bushmills Original and Black Bush are blended whiskies, while the 10 year and the 21 year are single malts.

I hope that clears things up!

That's the Spirit: Johnnie Walker Double Black

@TimoG Adding caramel coloring (the technical designation is E150A) is a pretty standard practice for scotch producers - in fact, if you don't see the words "no coloring added" it's a pretty safe bet that you've got caramel in your bottle. See Ralfy's in-depth video all about it here. As for the smokier flavor - I'm pretty sure that's due to the inclusion of more smoky whiskys in this blend!

That's the Spirit: Johnnie Walker Double Black

@portail32 The MSRP for the Double Black is $40, or 15% more than the Black Label's $34. Let us know if you find it, and what you think!!

That's the Spirit: Jim Beam Devil's Cut

@Wade Woodard, do you know that this is the process they use? I'm actually quite curious, but I'm not sure your analogy holds up - with the paint shaker, dried paint is merely coating the internal surface of the can, but here the bourbon is actually soaked INTO the wood of the barrel, so I would imagine that it would take more than shaking water around in the barrel to extract the trapped spirit. But I haven't tried the experiment myself - anyone have any insights?

Do You Use Fancy Wine Glasses?

I don't know from wine glasses, but I have done some legit A/B on spirits glasses - take the exact same whisky in a tumbler vs. a shaped glass and the results are stunning. Since so much of the spirit experience is based around aroma, shaping the flow of those compounds to your schnoz is paramount. My personal preference is for a Glencairn glass: it was designed for whisky in particular but I've found it versatile enough for any sipping spirit. There's definitely a place for the rest of the spirit stemware out there (tumbler for on the rocks, martini for martini, highball for highballs, etc.), but when enjoying a spirit on its own, it's worth paying attention to your glass.

Video: Baby in a Watermelon

In a superior parallel universe, the hippest '80s craze in children's dolls = melon patch kids.

Super Bowl Giveaway: Pig Pickin' and Wings from RUB

With apologies to George Thorogood:
1. Bourbon: A nice balanced bourbon [Four Roses] to get through the pregame coverage
2. Scotch: One of the peat monsters from Islay [Laphroaig CS or Ardbeg Uigeadail] to get the smoke on the fire
3. Beer to take it on out. American for the 'bowl - Sierra Nevada, king of American Pale Ale

That's The Spirit: Dry Fly Gin

Distilled from Eastern Washington-grown winter wheat and flavored with dried Washington apples, mint, juniper, and hops, this spirit is almost more of a genever than an American gin. It's very aromatic, with a nose perfumed with green apple, grapefruit, and malt and only a hint of the telltale juniper and botanicals. More