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The Serious Eats Glossary of New York Bread

Good bread lies at the heart of New York City's culinary life. Sure, other cities also have their loaves (San Francisco sourdough and Dutch crunch, Boston and its brown bread) but New York's bread culture runs as deep and diverse as the history of our town. More

6 NYC Flat Breads You Should Be Eating

The loaf bread, great as it is, does not fit all purposes. Sometimes you want something custom-made for wrapping, dipping, or chewing. Flat breads are the answer, and not just pocket-filled pita. So here I present my favorite flat breads, many from the city's ethnic bakeries, whose whose customers understand the value and flavor of the 2-D loaf. More

How Bien Cuit Fills NYC's Bread Baskets

Too few restaurants pay real attention to their bread baskets. For most chefs, it's enough to offer a few pro forma French rolls, grissini, and flatbreads. However, if they really want to integrate their bread baskets into their menus, they turn to bakeries like Bien Cuit to produce their own bespoke bread creations. More

Eat SCRATCHbread's Peasant Sourdough and Outlast the Cold

The Peasant Sourdough comes out the oven looking like some crusty rye loaf, but it's actually on the soft and thin-crusted side. As in many SCRATCH products, the bakers build the ingredients for this bread out of a small group of building blocks that are also used for other loaves. First comes the sourdough starter, made from oat mash, rice, and wheatberries. To this they add cane sugar, a bran mix of wheat bran, flax seed, and oats, and then a mixture of dark rye, whole wheat, regular wheat, and spelt flours. More

Sorry, New York; Why Los Angeles is the Best Pastrami City in America

This article would be more authoritative if there was some evidence that the author had actually eaten New York pastrami. You can't say LA pastrami is better than NY pastrami without doing a side by side comparison.

Inside New York's Cult of the Bialy

For onion boards, onion rolls, and other old-time Jewish onion-y breadstuffs, go to Chiffon Kosher Cake Center in Midwood. It's the real deal. Also great Kaiser rolls. And much more.

The Secrets of Cantonese Cooking, America's First Chinese Cuisine

Hey Joe,

Great piece on Cantonese food! Like the other guy or gal said, I'm hungry!

American Chop Suey: The Cheesy, Beefy, Misnamed Stovetop Casserole That Deserves a Comeback

Here's an even earlier (1910) version of American chop suey:

Place in a spider a lump of butter, size of a walnut; in this, when hot, brown one and one-half pounds of Hamburg steak; heat a can of tomatoes, fry four medium-sized onions, and boil two cups of macaroni or spaghetti; seasoning each article well; drain macaroni and add it, with the onions and tomatoes, to the meat, and simmer five minutes. No side dishes are needed if this is made for lunch, as it make a palatable, substantial lunch for six or seven people.

Set Course for Dumpling Galaxy: The Makings of My Favorite Dumplings in NYC

We just had a great lunch there. I particularly loved the fried lamb and green squash dumplings. The restaurant also features a full menu of very good Dongbei-style dishes in addition to the dumplings.

By the way, it's the Southern Chinese, and particularly the Cantonese, who don't like lamb. Northerners love it, and it's also the most important meat in Chinese Muslim cooking.

Russ & Rye: [Re]Building the Jewish Bakery Tradition

That's a seeded corn rye.

Russ & Rye: [Re]Building the Jewish Bakery Tradition

Right now the breads are only available whole in the shop. The cafe has them sliced in its breadbaskets. I think they're planning to sell them through the online store. I would call them ask if they're shipping loaves yet.

The Food Lab: Bringing Home General Tso's Chicken

FYI, Chef Peng's original recipe (there is no debate: he invented it) for General Tso's chicken has no breading at all and the sauce isn't sweet. According to Ian Cheney, director of "The Search for General Tso," it's the best version of the dish.

Meet She Wolf Bakery, the Bread Behind Roman's, Diner, and Marlow & Daughters

In re: caramelization. Taste it and see.

6 NYC Flat Breads You Should Be Eating

Thanks for the Great Neck tip!

I haven't tried Yemen Cuisine, but I'm a huge admirer of Yemen Cafe's (on Atlantic Avenue) enormous flatbread. They give you enough to cover a table.

Destination, Jersey: The Wonderful Turkish Food of Paterson, NJ

Two areas for great Paterson food: South Main Street is the main stem of the Turkish/Middle Eastern restaurant and market scene and Market Street, aka "Little Lima," is the place to go for Peruvian food.

Success Stories: The Flushing-Based Restaurants You Can Find in Manhattan

Unfortunately, that is the 39 St location.

Success Stories: The Flushing-Based Restaurants You Can Find in Manhattan

The problem with Szechuan Gourmet is that you have to check its Department of Health status before visiting. After their recent Valentine's Day inspection, they received 66 violation points. They may be closed right now.

When Only Wonder Will Do: The Best White Breads in NYC

Martin's makes my go-to hot dog rolls and hamburger buns, but they do contain a dough conditioners, preservatives, and food dyes....

When Only Wonder Will Do: The Best White Breads in NYC

I'm a huge fan of Chiffon's breads. They're the best all-around Jewish bakery in the city, the only one that makes the full line of classics.

I'm glad someone got my "gluteal" play!

Where To Get Chocolates For Your Valentine (...or Yourself) in NYC

What about 2 Beans at 100 Park Avenue, just below Grand Central Station, for a huge array of excellent bars from many international producers and also excellent truffles, etc., etc.? Not to mention imported German stollen and cookies and Illy coffee.

Stew Leonard's Faux-Cronuts Are Awesome

I hear they also make a crogel--the love child of the croissant and the bagel.

The Best Baguette in NYC, 2013 Edition

The fresh Orwasher's baguettes arrive in their store around 12:30 pm every day. The afternoon is certainly the best time to buy them.

How a New York Bakery Engineered its French Baguette

That's why we're planning to have a team of baguette buyers fan out through the city on the day of the tasting: freshness rules the baguette world!

How a New York Bakery Engineered its French Baguette

For one thing, your ovens can't also be used to make lard bread or prosciutto bread. So you must have a kosher-certified space.

How I Learned to Stop Ordering 'Thai Spicy'

Hi Joe,

Great to see you at SENY! So the question is: Which Thai dishes should really be served Thai spicy? The Som Tums, Larbs, and Yums? How hot should the curry dishes be?

Love Chopsticks & Marrow!

Maison Kayser's Marathon Bars Are an Energy Bar We Can Get Behind

It is supposed to open on November 6 on 40th Street just west of 5th.

Runner & Stone's Hutzelbrot is Perfect for Harvest Time

I'm working on it! My column usually comes out every other week, on Thursdays.

Han Dynasty Rocks the First Stage Then Loses Its Beat

Two suggestions: La Vie en Szechuan on East 33rd Street and Little Pepper in College Point, Queens. Chinese food for Chinese people.

First Impressions of RedFarm Upper West Side

I don't think it's racism, but Americans certainly do have a cultural expectation that Chinese food should be cheap. This goes back to the earliest days of Chinese restaurants in this country, when we crowded into Chinatowns to gulp down 15 cent bowls of chop suey.

I think Red Farm's prices are more in line with the trend of Midtown restaurants like Shun Lee, which are expense-account joints that serve Chinese food to primarily non-Chinese customers. These customers believe that for food to be good, it must be expensive. (Unfortunately, the food usually isn't.) I'd bet that Chinatown restaurant rents aren't so different from Midtown, but those places make their money on turnover, not high prices.

Good Bread: Portuguese Specialties at Teixeira's Bakery in Newark

The Ironbound district of Newark is a pancake-flat trapezoid hemmed in between the city's downtown, the Passaic River, and the highway. For almost a century, it's been home to a thriving Portuguese community, rivaled in size only by Massachusetts communities like Fall River and New Bedford. The Ironbound's main drag, Ferry Street, is lined with Portuguese, Spanish, and Brazilian restaurants selling platters of paella, barbecue, and the like. If you want a bite of something just as Iberian but not so gut-busting, head to Teixeira's Bakery, with two stores in the Ironbound. The line to the counter is often forty deep, but it's worth the wait. More

Good Bread: Dean & DeLuca

If you want to judge the state of bread in New York, a good place to start is the bread counter at Dean & DeLuca's main store at Broadway and Prince Street. Here you find a wide selection of great loaves both haute and earthy, from the latest Manhattan artisan sensation to old school breads from the farthest reaches of the outer boroughs. More

Good Bread: Sullivan Street Bakery

Talk about crust. That's the first thing you notice about Sullivan Street Bakery's breads. Here's bakery founder and owner Jim Lahey: "The crust of bread has to do with how bread is cooked. The crust is something that forms during the cooling process. I like cooking things to their highest expression. I like the contrast of soft and crunchy. I like to taste the by-products of lacto-fermentation in dough. That's what gives a unique flavor to the crust." More

Good Bread: Epicerie Boulud

The yeasty heart of the Daniel Boulud empire is hidden at the end of an East Village alley, through an unmarked door, and down a long, brightly-lit corridor. There, amid a phalanx of stainless steel ovens, mixers, and other machines, genial master baker Mark Fiorentino and his team of assistants turn out a dizzying array of breads for Boulud's half dozen restaurants. More

Good Bread: Don Paco Lopez

There's a trio of cartoon skeletons dancing on the window of a bakery on Brooklyn's 4th Avenue. Just inside the door, you find an elaborate altar decorated with sugar skulls, comic skeleton figures, bottles of tequila, photographs of deceased relatives, candles, crosses, and round loaves of sweet bread decorated with bone designs. This is how the family that owns Don Paco Lopez, maybe the city's oldest and certainly its best known Mexican bakery, celebrates the lives of its ancestors. More

Good Bread: Marie's Bakery and Dom's Bakery in Hoboken

The rest of the country knows Hoboken for the sculpted sheet cakes that come from its most famous bakery. They're swathed in sheets of Satin Ice brand fondant tinted a rainbow of hues not found in nature. Even on the coldest days, the line for Carlo's Bakery, of reality show fame, stretches for blocks down toward the train tracks. Hobokenites know their city for the good bread produced by the bakeries that aren't featured on TV. More

Good Bread: Takahachi Bakery

The Japanese like their bread soft and fine-grained. This is partly due to the baleful influence of American culture, post-World War II, when the taste for Wonder-style white loaves spread with American food rations into Japanese society. Today, Japanese may eat more bread than rice, mainly as breakfast toast and quick-lunch sandwiches. Most of this is shokupan, a big, white Pullman loaf that's sold in crinkly cellophane bags. Like any bread, it can be ruined by adding preservatives and too many cheap ingredients. In New York, the place to buy your shokupan is Tribeca's Takahachi Bakery, where the cooks are committed to quality, freshness, and wacky invention. More