Our Authors

Andrew Coe

Andrew Coe

I write the Good Bread column for Serious Eats New York and also contribute articles on Asian food. I am a food writer and culinary historian. I've written for Gastronomica, Saveur, the NY Times, the Wall Street Journal and am the author of Chop Suey: A Cultural of Chinese Food in the United States. I also am a contributor to the Oxford Enyclopedia of Food and Drink in America.

  • Location: Brooklyn, NY
  • Favorite foods: Where to begin?--good bread, dumplings, noodles, lamb and mutton, durian, fresh green peas, pike quenelles with sauce Nantua, puddings, poppy seed roll, all sausages, any salad from Yunnan tea leaf salad to crisp romaine with oil and vinegar, a perfect roast chicken, and...I have to stop, it's lunchtime.

Good Bread: Paris Baguette

Koreatown, the block of 32nd Street between 5th and 6th Avenues, is a densely packed smorgasbord of Korean food. With restaurants lined up side by side and stacked on top of each other, the competition for your stomach and your wallet is intense. You can choose from Korean cafeterias, tiny kimbap joints, Korean-Chinese restaurants, multi-level eateries with elaborate waterfalls, and on and on. And among that glorious hodgepodge, you find Korean bakeries stuffed with over-the-top sweet and savory specialties. If you want to understand what makes a living, morphing fusion cuisine, Paris Baguette is a good place to start. More

Beyond Soup Dumplings: Shanghai Cafe Deluxe's Tasty Dumplings in Soup

We're soup dumpling-mad. When we go to a Shanghai-style Chinese restaurant, all too often we order soup dumplings, perhaps before we even sit down. But sometimes it pays to slow down and pay attention to the rest of the dumpling menu. On a recent visit to the excellent Shanghai Café Deluxe, our eyes lit on something called rice ball with pork in soup ($3.95). What a novel idea—dumplings in soup, rather than dumplings with soup inside them. More

Good Bread: New Amsterdam Market's Bread Pavilion

The New Amsterdam Market was a slice of bread heaven last Sunday. Fifteen of the city's best bakeries offered a dizzying array of delicious loaves, many of them created just for this event. The occasion was the market's Bread Pavilion, designed to showcase flours made from wheat grown by regional farmers. "We brought in bakers not normally in the market in celebration of local grains," said New Amsterdam founder Robert LaValva. The bakers came to support the farmers, and to compete. As Keith Cohen of Orwasher's said, "I brought my A game." More

Good Bread: Portuguese Specialties at Teixeira's Bakery in Newark

The Ironbound district of Newark is a pancake-flat trapezoid hemmed in between the city's downtown, the Passaic River, and the highway. For almost a century, it's been home to a thriving Portuguese community, rivaled in size only by Massachusetts communities like Fall River and New Bedford. The Ironbound's main drag, Ferry Street, is lined with Portuguese, Spanish, and Brazilian restaurants selling platters of paella, barbecue, and the like. If you want a bite of something just as Iberian but not so gut-busting, head to Teixeira's Bakery, with two stores in the Ironbound. The line to the counter is often forty deep, but it's worth the wait. More

Good Bread: Landbrot

For the last quarter century or so, much of New York City has been a German bread desert. The only way to get a loaf of freshly made bauernbrot was to trek out to Central Queens, where neighborhoods like Ridgewood and Middle Village still cling to vestiges of German ethnic tradition. Luckily, however, tastes change, and that's where David Rothe and Volker Herrmann saw their opportunity. More

Good Bread: Il Buco Alimentari e Vineria

With his burly physique, shaved head, and cauliflower ears, Il Buco Alimentari e Vineria's head baker looks like the wrong kind of guy you'd want to meet down a back alley in Bordeaux. And you'd be right: as a youth in France, Kamel Saci was a professional judo champion. But in his basement bakery, a completely different side to his personality comes out. For Kamel, dough is not an opponent to be beaten into submission; it responds best to a minimum of handling, the gentler the better. The results show his techniques work. Il Buco's ovens produce some of the crustiest and most flavorsome artisan loaves in the city. More

Good Bread: Dean & DeLuca

If you want to judge the state of bread in New York, a good place to start is the bread counter at Dean & DeLuca's main store at Broadway and Prince Street. Here you find a wide selection of great loaves both haute and earthy, from the latest Manhattan artisan sensation to old school breads from the farthest reaches of the outer boroughs. More

Good Bread: Storye

Latvians love their dense, dark rye bread. Latvian-Americans love it so much that they have it shipped over from the old country in loaves weighing over 17 pounds. It goes fast, because it's their staff of life, a necessary accompaniment to breakfast, lunch, and dinner. A number of mail order businesses have sprung up to cater to this community. Last year, Baltic Shop teamed up with the famous Laci bakery in Riga to sell their top quality breads in the United States under the Storye ("stor-eye") brand name. They're so good they might even wean Manhattanites from their baguettes. More

Good Bread: Parisi Bakery

Flour, water, yeast, and salt. Back in 1903, a Neapolitan immigrant named Joe Parisi opened the Parisi Bakery at 198 Mott Street in Little Italy. The residents of that stretch of Mott were almost all from the Naples area, and Joe baked for them the kind of loaves that they knew from the old country. More

Good Bread: Sullivan Street Bakery

Talk about crust. That's the first thing you notice about Sullivan Street Bakery's breads. Here's bakery founder and owner Jim Lahey: "The crust of bread has to do with how bread is cooked. The crust is something that forms during the cooling process. I like cooking things to their highest expression. I like the contrast of soft and crunchy. I like to taste the by-products of lacto-fermentation in dough. That's what gives a unique flavor to the crust." More

Good Bread: Hot Bread Kitchen

The aroma of good bread wafts from beneath the rumbling commuter trains over Park Avenue in East Harlem. The smell comes from behind the moribund stalls of East Harlem's La Marqueta, where a half dozen bakers hustle loaves in and out of stainless steel ovens. This is the nerve center of Hot Bread Kitchen, the immigrant women's baking collective that produces some of the city's most eclectic and exciting loaves. Serious Eats has already lauded its puffy, scrumptious bialys; now let's look at the rest of its offerings. More

Good Bread: Epicerie Boulud

The yeasty heart of the Daniel Boulud empire is hidden at the end of an East Village alley, through an unmarked door, and down a long, brightly-lit corridor. There, amid a phalanx of stainless steel ovens, mixers, and other machines, genial master baker Mark Fiorentino and his team of assistants turn out a dizzying array of breads for Boulud's half dozen restaurants. More

Good Bread: Don Paco Lopez

There's a trio of cartoon skeletons dancing on the window of a bakery on Brooklyn's 4th Avenue. Just inside the door, you find an elaborate altar decorated with sugar skulls, comic skeleton figures, bottles of tequila, photographs of deceased relatives, candles, crosses, and round loaves of sweet bread decorated with bone designs. This is how the family that owns Don Paco Lopez, maybe the city's oldest and certainly its best known Mexican bakery, celebrates the lives of its ancestors. More

Good Bread: New York Bread

The scent of drying grain wafts from the door of Coney Island's New York Bread bakery. The aroma emanates from the cooling room, where rack after rack of dark rye and wheat loaves wait to be bagged and shipped. For Brooklyn's Russian community, that smell is the essence of the homeland, of rolling fields of wheat and rye baking in the summer sun. More

Good Bread: Vandaag

When I went out to restaurants as a child, my parents would warn me, "Don't fill up on the bread basket." At Vandaag, the East Village's Dutch-Scandinavian eatery, it's hard not to do just that. You seem them on nearly every table, the porcelain bowls overflowing with slabs of bread and billowing sheets of crisps. Accompanied with a flight of Danish beer, the bread makes an excellent cocktail-hour meal, especially when smeared with Vandaag's gin-scented butter and lemon-eggplant spread. More

Good Bread: Bien Cuit

At Bien Cuit, his new Smith Street bakery, Zachary Golper is assembling a team of top-notch "bread hands." By that, he means workers with hands that are "delicate but strong and dexterous" and with an instinct for shaping dough. Serious Eats has already documented his lovely tarts, croissants, and sandwiches. Here we're going to celebrate Bien Cuit's breads. More

Good Bread: Black Rooster

Today, John Melngailis is a partner in Black Rooster Food, which makes and sells unapologetic Latvian rye just like his mother's. The first thing you notice about his Baltic Rye is that it's heavy and dense. A whole loaf weighs five pounds and is enough to feed a party of 50. Luckily, it's sold in 17-ounce sections that can keep a family in canapés for at least a week. The Baltic Rye's crust is as black as coal but surprisingly not bitter, while the crumb is tightly packed and a bit moist. It's made from 100 percent rye flour, sourdough leavening, rye malt, sugar, salt, and caraway seeds. More

Good Bread: Scratch Bread

The goods that come out of the Scratch Bread ovens are the baked equivalent of one of those Robert Rauschenberg paintings that combines found objects with carefully haphazard splashes of color. Bite into one of their sweet and greasy plantain bread cakes, and you could discover surprises like a whole dried chili pepper or a coffee bean. More

Good Bread: Roberta's Pizza

A bakery grows in a shipping container in a Brooklyn yard. That yard is part of the Bushwick compound of Roberta's Pizza, whose business seems to grow and morph every day. At first, the bakery used the pizza oven during the few, early morning hours it wasn't churning out pies. Last year, the restaurant hired master oven artisan Dick Bessey to build a big wood-fired oven in one of the many shipping containers that clutter its yard. In November, the restaurant brought in Melissa Weller, who has a resume that includes stints as head baker at Per Se and Bouchon as well as work at Sullivan Street and Babbo. The loaves that she pulls out of the oven every morning rival any in the city. More

Good Bread: Paris Baguette

Perhaps my description was a little over-the-top, but I stand by my portrayal of Koreatown as one block that is absolutely stuffed with food businesses. There are actually three Korean bakeries/cafes on the block: Paris Baguette, Koryodang, and Ele.

Beyond Soup Dumplings: Shanghai Cafe Deluxe's Tasty Dumplings in Soup

Yes, we've had the Fujianese dumplings from a couple of Eldridge St. eateries. They're very good, but not quite as delicate as the Mott St. version.

The Serious Eats Guide to Indian Food in New York City

Thanks for this great guide. It's indispensable. But that's not Tangra Masala's lollipop chicken. It's their paneer pakora, which I also highly recommend.

Indian-Chinese Cuisine at Tangra Masala in Elmhurst

Yes, same owners as Tangra Fusion on Queens Blvd in Sunnyside.

I guess I didn't make it clear. The meat is still attached to the bone at the top (knee) end. The chefs kind of tease it up into a bouffant, dip it in breading, and deep fry. The leg bone acts as the lollipop stick.

Good Bread: Landbrot

Pop them in the oven until warm!

Thanks for the positive comments! I'm looking forward to try more Landbrot brot over the next few weeks.

Good Bread: Il Buco Alimentari e Vineria

I'm glad you like the post and photos. Kamel's the man!

Unfortunately, the great bread can sometimes be a bit pricey, like $5-8 a loaf.

Cheap Eats: Five Great Italian Snacks On Court Street

I can't believe you didn't mention Court Pastry! Best Italian Ices in NYC, excellent grain pie for Easter, biscotti, and of course, sanguinaccio--chocolate pudding made with beef blood. The lady behind the counter describes it best: "It tastes like chocolate pudding with blood in it."

Good Bread: Parisi Bakery

They do have a whole wheat roll similar to the hero roll.

Good Bread: Grandaisy Bakery

Thanks for the tip about Stork's. I'll check it out.

The cornbread at Eataly is excellent, if a bit heavy on the olive oil. The Jewish "corn bread" that I'm talking about is actually a rye bread with cornmeal just on the bottom. New Yorkers of a certain age who grew up around Jewish delis dream about the old-style corn bread, but it seems to have almost disappeared.

The sette grani costs, I think, $11--not cheap, but it'll feed you for at least a week.

Adam Platt's 101 Best Restaurants in NYC

Not....one....Chinese....restaurant....oh, wait, just there at the end, squeaking in at #100 is Ed Schoenfeld's Red Farm. I think Mr. Platt has a hole in his tongue where his Chinese (and Malaysian and Thai and Turkish and anything else too ethnic) tastebuds should be.

Legend Brings Serious Sichuan to Chelsea

Yes I am talking about Little Pepper in College Point. It has a chef just in from Sichuan, some dishes not found on other NYC menus, and a lot of bright, delicious, well-balanced flavors. It's a pain to get to, especially without a car, but the trip is worth it.

Legend Brings Serious Sichuan to Chelsea

Little Pepper is the best Sichuan restaurant in NYC.

Sunset Park: Tacos Matamoros, Tacos Ricos, Tacos Xochimilco

When you say "best tortillas," the name that immediately pops in my head is Tortilleria Nixtamal in Corona. They make their own from scratch, not pre-ground Maseca corn flour.

Sunset Park: Tacos Matamoros, Tacos Ricos, Tacos Xochimilco

You have to try Tacos El Bronco on 4th Avenue at 44t St in Sunset Park. Big delicious tacos, excellent cemitas, etc., etc.

My Three Favorite Lamb Burgers in New York

Historically, we've never been big lamb eaters. One reason is that most of the sheep brought over by the early colonists were wool sheep, which have a more "wool-y" or lanolin-y flavor. Also, we've always had a fixation on beef. Americans don't trust any red meat that isn't steak. Speaking of which, did you know that next week is Goat Week in many NYC restaurants?

Good Bread: Marie's Bakery and Dom's Bakery in Hoboken

Renee of Marie's Bakery confirms that she is the sole supplier of the excellent bread sold by Fiore's House of Quality.

Also, due to a writer error (mea culpa!), the phone numbers got mixed up. Here are the correct numbers:

Marie's Bakery, 201-963-4281

Dom's, 201-653-1948

Good Bread: Marie's Bakery and Dom's Bakery in Hoboken

The guy at Fiore's told me that they use "Policastro" bread. Renee Policastro told me that Marie's supplies Fiore's. However, I wouldn't be surprised if other bakeries making Policastro bread also supply Fiore's.

Good Bread: Portuguese Specialties at Teixeira's Bakery in Newark

The Ironbound district of Newark is a pancake-flat trapezoid hemmed in between the city's downtown, the Passaic River, and the highway. For almost a century, it's been home to a thriving Portuguese community, rivaled in size only by Massachusetts communities like Fall River and New Bedford. The Ironbound's main drag, Ferry Street, is lined with Portuguese, Spanish, and Brazilian restaurants selling platters of paella, barbecue, and the like. If you want a bite of something just as Iberian but not so gut-busting, head to Teixeira's Bakery, with two stores in the Ironbound. The line to the counter is often forty deep, but it's worth the wait. More

Good Bread: Dean & DeLuca

If you want to judge the state of bread in New York, a good place to start is the bread counter at Dean & DeLuca's main store at Broadway and Prince Street. Here you find a wide selection of great loaves both haute and earthy, from the latest Manhattan artisan sensation to old school breads from the farthest reaches of the outer boroughs. More

Good Bread: Sullivan Street Bakery

Talk about crust. That's the first thing you notice about Sullivan Street Bakery's breads. Here's bakery founder and owner Jim Lahey: "The crust of bread has to do with how bread is cooked. The crust is something that forms during the cooling process. I like cooking things to their highest expression. I like the contrast of soft and crunchy. I like to taste the by-products of lacto-fermentation in dough. That's what gives a unique flavor to the crust." More

Good Bread: Epicerie Boulud

The yeasty heart of the Daniel Boulud empire is hidden at the end of an East Village alley, through an unmarked door, and down a long, brightly-lit corridor. There, amid a phalanx of stainless steel ovens, mixers, and other machines, genial master baker Mark Fiorentino and his team of assistants turn out a dizzying array of breads for Boulud's half dozen restaurants. More

Good Bread: Don Paco Lopez

There's a trio of cartoon skeletons dancing on the window of a bakery on Brooklyn's 4th Avenue. Just inside the door, you find an elaborate altar decorated with sugar skulls, comic skeleton figures, bottles of tequila, photographs of deceased relatives, candles, crosses, and round loaves of sweet bread decorated with bone designs. This is how the family that owns Don Paco Lopez, maybe the city's oldest and certainly its best known Mexican bakery, celebrates the lives of its ancestors. More

Good Bread: Marie's Bakery and Dom's Bakery in Hoboken

The rest of the country knows Hoboken for the sculpted sheet cakes that come from its most famous bakery. They're swathed in sheets of Satin Ice brand fondant tinted a rainbow of hues not found in nature. Even on the coldest days, the line for Carlo's Bakery, of reality show fame, stretches for blocks down toward the train tracks. Hobokenites know their city for the good bread produced by the bakeries that aren't featured on TV. More

Good Bread: Takahachi Bakery

The Japanese like their bread soft and fine-grained. This is partly due to the baleful influence of American culture, post-World War II, when the taste for Wonder-style white loaves spread with American food rations into Japanese society. Today, Japanese may eat more bread than rice, mainly as breakfast toast and quick-lunch sandwiches. Most of this is shokupan, a big, white Pullman loaf that's sold in crinkly cellophane bags. Like any bread, it can be ruined by adding preservatives and too many cheap ingredients. In New York, the place to buy your shokupan is Tribeca's Takahachi Bakery, where the cooks are committed to quality, freshness, and wacky invention. More