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Andrew Coe

Andrew Coe

I write the Good Bread column for Serious Eats New York and also contribute articles on Asian food. I am a food writer and culinary historian. I've written for Gastronomica, Saveur, the NY Times, the Wall Street Journal and am the author of Chop Suey: A Cultural of Chinese Food in the United States. I also am a contributor to the Oxford Enyclopedia of Food and Drink in America.

  • Location: Brooklyn, NY
  • Favorite foods: Where to begin?--good bread, dumplings, noodles, lamb and mutton, durian, fresh green peas, pike quenelles with sauce Nantua, puddings, poppy seed roll, all sausages, any salad from Yunnan tea leaf salad to crisp romaine with oil and vinegar, a perfect roast chicken, and...I have to stop, it's lunchtime.

6 NYC Flat Breads You Should Be Eating

The loaf bread, great as it is, does not fit all purposes. Sometimes you want something custom-made for wrapping, dipping, or chewing. Flat breads are the answer, and not just pocket-filled pita. So here I present my favorite flat breads, many from the city's ethnic bakeries, whose whose customers understand the value and flavor of the 2-D loaf. More

How Bien Cuit Fills NYC's Bread Baskets

Too few restaurants pay real attention to their bread baskets. For most chefs, it's enough to offer a few pro forma French rolls, grissini, and flatbreads. However, if they really want to integrate their bread baskets into their menus, they turn to bakeries like Bien Cuit to produce their own bespoke bread creations. More

Eat SCRATCHbread's Peasant Sourdough and Outlast the Cold

The Peasant Sourdough comes out the oven looking like some crusty rye loaf, but it's actually on the soft and thin-crusted side. As in many SCRATCH products, the bakers build the ingredients for this bread out of a small group of building blocks that are also used for other loaves. First comes the sourdough starter, made from oat mash, rice, and wheatberries. To this they add cane sugar, a bran mix of wheat bran, flax seed, and oats, and then a mixture of dark rye, whole wheat, regular wheat, and spelt flours. More

Good Bread: Bobolink Dairy's Bread is as Good as its Cheese

When you serve cheese, you need bread. Over a dozen years ago, that simple imperative led Bobolink Dairy, already renowned for its artisan cheeses, to build a wood-fired oven to bake rustic breads to go with their rustic cheeses. Today, Boblink's oven produces 17 varieties of bread made from largely local and organic grains. Thanks to the bakers' commitment to small batch, naturally leavened doughs, these loaves have a richness of flavor and texture that stands out in the city's crowded bread market. More

Good Bread: Lafayette's Rustic French Breads

If you open a brasserie these days, you have to take bread seriously. Case in point is Lafayette, the new French restaurant in the old Chinatown Brasserie space on Lafayette Street. Walk in the door and the first thing you're greeted with is a counter displaying racks of brown loaves and glistening pastries that are an immediate sign of the eatery's ambition. More

Meet She Wolf Bakery, the Bread Behind Roman's, Diner, and Marlow & Daughters

In re: caramelization. Taste it and see.

6 NYC Flat Breads You Should Be Eating

Thanks for the Great Neck tip!

I haven't tried Yemen Cuisine, but I'm a huge admirer of Yemen Cafe's (on Atlantic Avenue) enormous flatbread. They give you enough to cover a table.

Destination, Jersey: The Wonderful Turkish Food of Paterson, NJ

Two areas for great Paterson food: South Main Street is the main stem of the Turkish/Middle Eastern restaurant and market scene and Market Street, aka "Little Lima," is the place to go for Peruvian food.

Success Stories: The Flushing-Based Restaurants You Can Find in Manhattan

Unfortunately, that is the 39 St location.

Success Stories: The Flushing-Based Restaurants You Can Find in Manhattan

The problem with Szechuan Gourmet is that you have to check its Department of Health status before visiting. After their recent Valentine's Day inspection, they received 66 violation points. They may be closed right now.

When Only Wonder Will Do: The Best White Breads in NYC

Martin's makes my go-to hot dog rolls and hamburger buns, but they do contain a dough conditioners, preservatives, and food dyes....

When Only Wonder Will Do: The Best White Breads in NYC

I'm a huge fan of Chiffon's breads. They're the best all-around Jewish bakery in the city, the only one that makes the full line of classics.

I'm glad someone got my "gluteal" play!

Where To Get Chocolates For Your Valentine (...or Yourself) in NYC

What about 2 Beans at 100 Park Avenue, just below Grand Central Station, for a huge array of excellent bars from many international producers and also excellent truffles, etc., etc.? Not to mention imported German stollen and cookies and Illy coffee.

Stew Leonard's Faux-Cronuts Are Awesome

I hear they also make a crogel--the love child of the croissant and the bagel.

The Best Baguette in NYC, 2013 Edition

The fresh Orwasher's baguettes arrive in their store around 12:30 pm every day. The afternoon is certainly the best time to buy them.

How a New York Bakery Engineered its French Baguette

That's why we're planning to have a team of baguette buyers fan out through the city on the day of the tasting: freshness rules the baguette world!

How a New York Bakery Engineered its French Baguette

For one thing, your ovens can't also be used to make lard bread or prosciutto bread. So you must have a kosher-certified space.

How I Learned to Stop Ordering 'Thai Spicy'

Hi Joe,

Great to see you at SENY! So the question is: Which Thai dishes should really be served Thai spicy? The Som Tums, Larbs, and Yums? How hot should the curry dishes be?

Love Chopsticks & Marrow!

Maison Kayser's Marathon Bars Are an Energy Bar We Can Get Behind

It is supposed to open on November 6 on 40th Street just west of 5th.

Runner & Stone's Hutzelbrot is Perfect for Harvest Time

I'm working on it! My column usually comes out every other week, on Thursdays.

Han Dynasty Rocks the First Stage Then Loses Its Beat

Two suggestions: La Vie en Szechuan on East 33rd Street and Little Pepper in College Point, Queens. Chinese food for Chinese people.

First Impressions of RedFarm Upper West Side

I don't think it's racism, but Americans certainly do have a cultural expectation that Chinese food should be cheap. This goes back to the earliest days of Chinese restaurants in this country, when we crowded into Chinatowns to gulp down 15 cent bowls of chop suey.

I think Red Farm's prices are more in line with the trend of Midtown restaurants like Shun Lee, which are expense-account joints that serve Chinese food to primarily non-Chinese customers. These customers believe that for food to be good, it must be expensive. (Unfortunately, the food usually isn't.) I'd bet that Chinatown restaurant rents aren't so different from Midtown, but those places make their money on turnover, not high prices.

Good Bread: New Amsterdam Market's Bread Pavilion

Thanks for the corrections!

Good Bread: New Amsterdam Market's Bread Pavilion

Aside from Il Buco's, I'm a fan of Blue Duck's chocolate bread, sometimes available at Union Markets.

Good Bread: Bobolink Dairy's Bread is as Good as its Cheese

They sell chunks of their Medieval Rye by the pound, other breads by the loaf. And if you compare prices with some of the Manhattan bakeries, Bobolink's breads are a bargain, and delicious to boot.

Good Bread: Rock Hill Bakehouse

Matt, I've never encountered a "turned" Rock Hill Bread. I was referring to other bakeries--which shall remain nameless--which hold on to starters even though they've gone bad. Thanks for making great bread.

And yes, I knew that the Londons had reopened their patisserie, but I only have so much space and I needed to get to the bread!

Congrats to the 2013 James Beard Award Winners

I know it's monomania but: How come "Outstanding Bakery" isn't one of the categories?

What We Ate on the Trans-Siberian Railway

I took the Trans-Siberian in 1981. Compared to back then, your trip looks like culinary heaven. All I remember being served on the train was watery tomato soup with a few scraps of cabbage and meat. The best food I had was superlative pelmeni at the Intourist hotel in Khabarovsk. For the old Soviet Union, that was a party town.

Good Bread: Almondine Bakery Is Back Open

Herve says that he's concentrating on Dumbo right now. No plans to re-expand.

Good Bread: Almondine Bakery Is Back Open

The bread ingredients list on Almondine's website may be incorrect. According to Herve, the only breads made with yeast are his baguettes. The rest is made from either levain or sourdough starter. The sourdough is a very mild--read barely sour--sourdough with a moist crumb and slightly chewy crust. A very good sandwich bread.

Good Bread: Portuguese Specialties at Teixeira's Bakery in Newark

The Ironbound district of Newark is a pancake-flat trapezoid hemmed in between the city's downtown, the Passaic River, and the highway. For almost a century, it's been home to a thriving Portuguese community, rivaled in size only by Massachusetts communities like Fall River and New Bedford. The Ironbound's main drag, Ferry Street, is lined with Portuguese, Spanish, and Brazilian restaurants selling platters of paella, barbecue, and the like. If you want a bite of something just as Iberian but not so gut-busting, head to Teixeira's Bakery, with two stores in the Ironbound. The line to the counter is often forty deep, but it's worth the wait. More

Good Bread: Dean & DeLuca

If you want to judge the state of bread in New York, a good place to start is the bread counter at Dean & DeLuca's main store at Broadway and Prince Street. Here you find a wide selection of great loaves both haute and earthy, from the latest Manhattan artisan sensation to old school breads from the farthest reaches of the outer boroughs. More

Good Bread: Sullivan Street Bakery

Talk about crust. That's the first thing you notice about Sullivan Street Bakery's breads. Here's bakery founder and owner Jim Lahey: "The crust of bread has to do with how bread is cooked. The crust is something that forms during the cooling process. I like cooking things to their highest expression. I like the contrast of soft and crunchy. I like to taste the by-products of lacto-fermentation in dough. That's what gives a unique flavor to the crust." More

Good Bread: Epicerie Boulud

The yeasty heart of the Daniel Boulud empire is hidden at the end of an East Village alley, through an unmarked door, and down a long, brightly-lit corridor. There, amid a phalanx of stainless steel ovens, mixers, and other machines, genial master baker Mark Fiorentino and his team of assistants turn out a dizzying array of breads for Boulud's half dozen restaurants. More

Good Bread: Don Paco Lopez

There's a trio of cartoon skeletons dancing on the window of a bakery on Brooklyn's 4th Avenue. Just inside the door, you find an elaborate altar decorated with sugar skulls, comic skeleton figures, bottles of tequila, photographs of deceased relatives, candles, crosses, and round loaves of sweet bread decorated with bone designs. This is how the family that owns Don Paco Lopez, maybe the city's oldest and certainly its best known Mexican bakery, celebrates the lives of its ancestors. More

Good Bread: Marie's Bakery and Dom's Bakery in Hoboken

The rest of the country knows Hoboken for the sculpted sheet cakes that come from its most famous bakery. They're swathed in sheets of Satin Ice brand fondant tinted a rainbow of hues not found in nature. Even on the coldest days, the line for Carlo's Bakery, of reality show fame, stretches for blocks down toward the train tracks. Hobokenites know their city for the good bread produced by the bakeries that aren't featured on TV. More

Good Bread: Takahachi Bakery

The Japanese like their bread soft and fine-grained. This is partly due to the baleful influence of American culture, post-World War II, when the taste for Wonder-style white loaves spread with American food rations into Japanese society. Today, Japanese may eat more bread than rice, mainly as breakfast toast and quick-lunch sandwiches. Most of this is shokupan, a big, white Pullman loaf that's sold in crinkly cellophane bags. Like any bread, it can be ruined by adding preservatives and too many cheap ingredients. In New York, the place to buy your shokupan is Tribeca's Takahachi Bakery, where the cooks are committed to quality, freshness, and wacky invention. More