Great, thoughtful article, Adam. (I found it through Towleroad, and will link to it at my Top Chef blog, Amuse-Biatch, http://amuse-biatch.blogspot.com). What I found interesting in reading Michael Ruhlman's latest, The Reach of a Chef, is that the chefs interviewed seemed to be mourning the passing of precisely that hypermasculine culture of hazing that Buford and Bourdain recount, and that that seems to be connected to the professionalizing of the chef, and of cooking in general. So there is also a class component to kitchen work, with the kitchen shifting from a blue-collar space (which, justifiedly or not, seems more homophobic, or at least more openly so) to a white-collar, college-educated space.
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