Best Old School Meets New School Italian?

My old-school, Connecticut-raised dad is coming to visit me for the first time in New York, and I'd love to take him to a nice Italian place that satisfies his love of hearty, meaty portions and attentive service, but also satisfies my inclination to want more interesting dishes. Also, I'd rather take him somewhere in lower Manhattan (East Village, LES, W. Village) or Brooklyn (preferably). Any ideas you have and pros and cons would be really appreciated!

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