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Chris Kimball's NY Times Editorial

I'm surprised no one has posted his "Ship of Fools" editorial yet:

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/10/08/opinion/08kimball.html?_r=1

Adam at the Amateur Gourmet posted a respose:

http://www.amateurgourmet.com/2009/10/a_response_to_c.html

Even if you don't read the AG response, scroll down towards the end of the comments, which includes some gossip about what Kimball is like in real life.

I posted this on FB but am reposting here--basically, I like ATK and CI's recipes, especially for baking, but the proprietary attitude towards their content makes me very uncomfortable, not just as a beginning cook, but also as a civil libertarian.

For fun, reading the editorial in a really snooty voice can be entertaining. Or at least, I entertained myself while doing so.

Sometimes editorials to the NY Times can be tough, dense and chewy. Our test writers tried writing 3,456 different versions before we produced one that was acceptable to send in...

22 Comments:

I think it's been fairly well established on here and elsewhere that CK is wrong. And a twit. But that's just MHO. : )

He reminds me of the person Martha Stewart used to be before her legal troubles and an apparent visit from three ghosts. Well, she may have not swung THAT much to the left but I get less of a "high and mighty" feel from her. CK needs an epiphany.

This editorial was stunning for its arrogance.

His chance for an epiphany has come in the form of the media shift from paper to electronic, and he's resisting it by condemning it.

Who knew that food - and its preparation - was the domain of elites? And the rest of us subsist on...what? grass? hay? bones? dung?

Chris Kimball tying the demise of Gourmet with the passing of Julia Child smacks me of nothing more than name dropping to give himself a little more street cred, not something I thought he needed to do. His arrogant and quaint little publication is known well enough by those foodies and food writing enthusiasts to know that he probably would like us all back in the days of the horse and wagon. Chris Kimball's publication is not and never would be a "Gourmet". So name drop all you want, Mr Kimball, you're not in the same league.

As a person in the publishing industry, I'm all too aware of the pressures that the digital age is putting on publications. Its simple: adapt or die. Twitter didn't kill Gourmet, Gourmet couldn't compete. If it had a message and an audience that cared enough, and a management that could see into the future, Gourmet the paper product could have morphed into some other presentation, even another print magazine. Magazines die when no one is interested in paying for them anymore. Simple. Conde Nast has sailed for many years on the hot wind of its own hubris and ego. Maybe they should have paid a little more attention to what's happening.

That said, it is the passing of a giant and long live Gourmet and all that, but lets move on. The Amateur Gourmet's says of Kimballs' magazine "..the dry, bloodless writing of Cook’s Illustrated" is spot on, and not about to take Gourmet's place.

Want to be even more agitated?

"http://christopherkimball.wordpress.com/2009/10/09/ship-of-fools

"In cooking, as in all things, there is a right way and a wrong way."

UGH. My problem with Kimball in a nutshell. Why can't he allow us all to learn, and have fun doing it? He's so joyless.

I'm also the one CC came after last summer for altering a recipe and posting it on my blog, so I'm probably a bit biased to begin with.

Honestly, I think Chris Kimball makes some good points. Sorry folks. The internet is swimming with food bloggers making the same recipes (not even their own recipes, for the most part) over and over and over again. Aside from a few standouts, most of these blogs are mediocre at best. Anyone can start a blog, a fact that is painfully obvious if you take a look at most food blogs out there. I think experience and expertise should be valued.

Also, gossiping "about what Kimball is like in real life" is just obnoxious.

Ed Levine posted a front page Serious Eats response to Christopher Kimball's NYT editorial last week.

did-the-internet-kill-gourmet-magazine-chris-kimball-op-ed


@peekpoke--I'm truly sorry, but I missed that front page article.

However, to pose a different question, on the whole print versus blog debate--why is there such anti-blog snobbery? Yes, there are bad blogs, but there also are and were truly terrible cookbooks out there--and I mean even pre-Food Network cookbooks. Is the blog-o-sphere really so different--back in the day, lots of people used magazine recipes that involved boxes and mixes and such.

Also, people seem to be dancing around this--what makes a blog so, so bad (other than just blatantly inaccurate recipes and bad writing--I mean, yes, there are many I don't frequent, but I haven't really read any that were so vile I would write editorials against them).

@HeartofGlass, I think you're missing the point. It's not that blogs are "bad" or "vile", it's that there is such a glut of mediocre blogs out there that its completely uninspiring. I don't think it's "anti-blog snobbery". There are some great food blogs, but just because someone can write a food blog doesn't make them an expert on food and cooking. And yes, there are many bad cookbooks out there, but it's much easier to write a blog than a cookbook, which makes so so blogs even more prevalent.

I'm conflicted. In some ways, CK is right. Some if the worthless crap out there on the internet does not compare to the fine work professionals offer. And usually the folks at CI churn out a nice quality product that I like to watch on TV and read about in thier magazine. BUT, I did find him quite off putting in his editorial. The internet is THE medium of 21st Century. Deal with it. Oh, and don't keep charging a gazillion dollars to sign up to your website. That's just plain D-U-M dumb. You're not the end all, be all god to foodies, buddy.

@meem2 - even if you think he's right - there's a right and wrong way to represent. Cook's Ill has shot itself in the foot a few times where public relations are concerned. The over-the-top threats to bloggers who mention CI's recipes, the high-falutin' attitude portrayed in the piece - these things pretty much wipe away any validity to the comments. CK brought more attention to his snooty self than he did a focus on what might or might not have gone wrong with Gourmet.

Thanks for linking to this - I hadn't seen either post yet. Adam is so right!

@maine--but I don't think his attitude really allows for good blogs. By stressing the value of professionalism to such a degree, it seems to make very little room for amateur cooks, despite the fact that quite a few 'test kitchens' in the professional world are producing quite amateurish recipes, and some blogs are quite daring.

@chiff--and yes, I think that, even for people who dislike the blog-o-sphere and are more in agreement with CK than I am, would have problems defending the fact that he used what was supposed to be a eulogy to basically praise his business model .

@ chiff, oh, I totally agree with you. That's why I said I was conflicted! He has a few minor points that make sense but the way he represents himself is so just pompous.

CK =ASS

I understand how to cook, I also understand there is a lot of crap out "there", but I will decide where, how and when I will get my content, not CK.

That guy chaps my ass! Elitist... and to quote from Marv Levy, "Oraficious Jerk"!

Where's the tylenol?!

Chris Kimball is in need of a colonoscopy. He's full of a "lot of stuff", and most of it belongs in the toilet.

I think they are becoming a bit desperate at Cook's Illustrated. Yesterday I received a CI cookbook in the mail that I did not order. It came with an invoice and letter said I could send it back postage free if I didn't like it. They have my address because I'm one of those dummies who pays for access to the CI website. After CK's comments and then the cookbook issue, I'm about ready to call it quits with CI.

Oh no, not that old "here's a book you can return," blah blah blah. I thought they were above that at CI. Where I come from if you get something in the mail you didn't order it = a present.

That link points to an interview of Reichl by Deborah Solomon. Is that what you meant to link to?

They are not closing Buon Apetit because she was not running it. It was not the damn recession, it was the magazine. So tired of the excuses. The magazine sucked. It was a giant money bleeding fashion fest. Have not liked it in a long time and I SUBSCRIBED dispite the facts, ffs.
No amount of hoping could save what people are not willing to support.
Again let me remind you Cook's Illustrated is supported by subscribers only. So obviously they are making money and I like and have liked it since issue #1 in 1993.

I read both CK's editorial and Adam Roberts' response and found Adam Roberts' to come off rather whiny and petulant. His blogger ego was bruised and so he spouted off.
I am a big fan of Cook's Illustrated and its off-shoots because their model works. I know any recipe that I get from their site or magazine will work and will be wonderful. I love the equipment and food tests and I know they aren't being paid by those companies to endorse that product, unlike some bloggers or magazines. And has anyone noticed that CK's snooty palate is often made fun of by the testers, audience, and CK himself on the shows?
That being said, I also love blogs like Orangette, Simply Recipes, and of course, Serious Eats. I love these blogs for many of the same reasons (the recipes work) and it's good content. Just as in the print world, we the readers decide what is successful and what is not, and generally those who are putting out a quality product will succeed. Sometimes, a beloved and quality magazine, like Gourmet, fails. That's just the marketplace, folks.
I found the comments on CK's personality on AG's site pretty tasteless. As another commenter on AG's site pointed out, perhaps CK has Asperger's or some sort of personality disorder? Whether he does or doesn't, is it any of our business?

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