What to eat 1st time in Paris
I am planning a trip to Paris in September. We are staying for 4 nights and I have never been before. I am looking for recommendation as far as what to eat, restaurants, markets. I am primarily looking for cafes and bistros mabe one or two fancy places. I like most foods but am not a fan of organ meat, foi gras, brains, veal or lamb. I am looking forward to bouillabase and baguettes. We don't have any plans as of yet and will need breakfast lunch and dinner. We are staying 2 blocks from the Eiffel tower. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
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24 Comments:
Here's some answers to the same question I posed here last month. Have a good time, Paris is fun. Plenty of Bouillabase and baguettes. We ate at a cafe called Le Royal Tour very near the Eiffel Tower and enjoyed the food there. We also dropped almost $400 for dinner for two at Le Dome.
http://www.seriouseats.com/talk/2009/05/dining-in-paris.html
lambowner at 4:12PM on 07/08/09
It's been years since I've been to Paris, so I don't really know specific places. But I remember that the first thing I did when I got there was to do a little recon of the neighborhood where my hotel was located. I stayed in the Montmartre area. After a 10 minute stroll around, I went to a boulangerie and bought myself a baguette. Conveniently next to the boulangerie was a butcher/deli shop, where I bought a few slices of ham and some sort of salami-type sausage. A few stores down was a cheese shop where I purchased a camembert. That was lunch. The next day, as I was coming back from the Rodin Museum, I came across a market that had all sorts of ready to eat food. One stall had roast chicken and roasted potatoes, another stall was selling paella. I purchase my chicken and potatoes and that was dinner. Between the well stocked supermarket, the neighborhood shops and the open air markets, I never set foot in a restaurant and I had some of the best tasting meals of my trips from these places. Maybe next time, I will try a few places.
AnnieNT at 4:13PM on 07/08/09
i just go by what david lebovitz recommends and also dorie greenspan. ok, granted dorie's is a romantic list but if you poke around her site or dl's they have more recommendations. i've tried a bunch of the restaurants and almost all the pastry and chocolate store recommendations on the sites and they're definitely worth it. (i'm trying to build up my list of places to eat before i move there in a few months from nyc so i've been researching...eeeek)
korovka at 4:26PM on 07/08/09
My most memorable meal in Paris was a picnic that we assembled from a morning of shopping an outdoor market and various supporting stores. The bread, the wine, the pates, meats, cheeses and delights from the patisserie screamed FRANCE.
The guys who make crepes at street stands are also great.
And don't necessarily write off non-French food. Paris is full of really great immigrant offerings.
Lorenzo at 4:41PM on 07/08/09
One word: crepes.
Traveller at 6:21PM on 07/08/09
Stop into the food hall at the Bon Marche, only a stop away at Metro station Sevres-Babylone. It's called the Grande Epicerie, and has fascinating food from all over France and Europe. A plus is that you learn the names of everything, and can get interesting snacks for your room as well as some drinks for your otherwise outlandishly priced mini-bar. Taking a few things from a street market to the Jardin Luxembourg is great. We love the brasserie Le Bofinger, near the Bastille, which has a gorgeous stained glass dome over a beautiful mirrored room. You can eat relatively inexpensively if you take the daily menu.
Caramanlis at 6:33PM on 07/08/09
For breakfast, keep in mind that the French do not really go for the American style bacon and eggs routine. I would skip "breakfast" per se (and the often very high charge associated with it at hotels) and do as the French do. Get a cappucino or cafe du lait standing at the local cafe and pick up a pastry from the local patisserie (pastry bakery, as opposed to a bread bakery) to snack on while you walk to your first destination of the day. We found a great place in the 6th and went there every morning to try a new delicacy before starting on sightseeing.
Note that, in my view, hotel breakfasts are to be avoided in France. Every time I have been in France (or anywhere on the Continent, for that matter), the hotel breakfast was what I think of as standard "Euro" breakfast - some cereal, some granola, some yogurt, some cheeses and meats, bread and croissants, and fruit. Everything was pretty generic (I am convinced that there is a central European breakfast store that all hotels get their breakfast foods from, because it all seems the same). Save your money, get a pastry to take the edge off, and save up for lunch and dinner!
In that vein, it is well worth the money to spring for at least a lunch at one of the old line three stars, such as Le Grand Vefour or Tour d'Argent, and one of the newer three starts, such as Joel Robuchon or Pierre Gagnaire. Prix fixe lunches run between 75E and 100E, plus beverage and wine at those restaurants, but you will not find finer food and service in more than a handful of other places in the word. Keep in mind that there will be many courses, even with the prix fixe, such as the amuse, the intermezzo, the cheese course with salad, the pre-dessert, the post-dessert, and the truffles and mignardises. After you eat the three hour lunch, you will not need much for supper!
My favorite more casual place to dine in Paris is Les Bouchons de Francois Clerc (7, rue du Boccador, 8th;Link to English site here: http://www.bouchonsdefrancoisclerc.com/en/ ; French site: http://www.bouchonsdefrancoisclerc.com/fr) . The food is very good, but my favorite features are wines are sold at excellent prices, sometimes even at wholesale, and the cheese tray that gets left at your table until you simply cannot consume another piece of Brillat-Savarin (or whatever your personal favorite happens to be)! I also am a fan of Brasserie de l’Île St-Louis (55 quai de Bourbon, Île St-Louis) for the choucroute, the cassoulet, and the inexpensive carafes of wine.
Make sure that you advise your server of your food issues before you order as the foods you list all are common on French menus and could come out on a set menu. If your French is not good, you might want to have someone write out your exclusions for you before you go so that you could hand the list to the server.
Have a great time!
Mizbee at 7:08PM on 07/08/09
EVERYTHING!!!!!!!! ;b
I spent a month in Paris in May, and had a most memorable lunch at Taillevent (80 Euro set lunch menu), a fabulous falafel sandwich at L'As du Falafel in the rue des Rosiers in the Marais, and the best steak-frites EVER at Le Relais de l'Entrecote in St Germain des Pres.
Oh, and nothing beats a Baguette Tradition and some truly gorgeous cheese with a glass of wine at the end of the day.
Bon Appetit!
vegemite at 3:50AM on 07/09/09
Don't write out your food aversions or have anyone else do it..... Just eat what they bring! Perhaps the main reason you didn't like the aforementioned foods was because they were prepared in a style you didn't like. When you go to Paris, let go of your food prejudices. JUST EAT EVERYTHING, AND EAT OFTEN! Sometimes you will win, sometimes maybe not so much... but I promise you, you will enjoy!
Pavlov at 9:23AM on 07/09/09
You will probably be ignored or mocked if you hand a Parisian waiter a list of the food issues you have - the French just don't think that way. What I would do is look up how to say all the food items that you want to avoid, and then when you see them on the menu, don't order them. A few words of practical advice: if you ask for 'un cafe', you will get a small shot of what is basically espresso - not a cup or mug of coffee. Cafe au lait is only served at breakfast time and if you ask for a coffee to drink WITH your midday or evening meal, you will get a very strange look and possibly be ignored :) Parisians typically do not drink or eat as they walk - this is very unusual - coffee is generally not served 'to-go' or 'a emporter' - if it is, they put the burning hot coffee in a tiny thin plastic cup that will burn your fingers and make you think of the dentist. Drink your coffee at the bar or at a table and take your time to soak up the ambiance. You ask for your check when you are ready to leave, but you won't get it until you ask for it.
Since you are staying near the Eiffel Tower, you will find amazing food choices on the Rue Cler, which is a pedestrian only market street a few blocks from where you are probably staying. There are a lot of good patisseries where you will be able to find a croissant or pain au chocolat for breakfast. I highly recommend this street and most of the merchants there can speak a little English, if that is a problem. Just go around to the different shops and collect some food and then have a picnic on the Esplanade des Invalides, a lawn nearby to where you are staying, or on the lawn near the Eiffel Tower. It will undoubtedly be a lovely time.
The last time I was in Paris, I had a wonderful dinner at La Regalade, which is located in the 14th arrondissement. David Lebowitz has great restaurant recommendations and I really enjoyed my lunch at the shop next to Poilane, where they serve delicious tartines (open faced sandwiches). The best lunches are just a sandwich au jambon et au fromage (ham and cheese on a baguette) because they butter the bread. Ham, egg and cheese galettes from a creperie or a street stand are also amazing. Bakeries will sell sandwiches at lunch time - look for a long line going out the door and you will know they make good stuff. Then go sit in the Jardin Luxembourg with your sandwich and after lunch, hit up Pierre Herme for some macarons (there is a location right near the park, just google it). Also, scope out neighborhood brasseries around lunch and see if they have a lot of office workers - if yes - it's probably a good bet for lunch. It sounds silly, but I had a good breakfast at Le Pain Quotidien as well, since you can sit down and have a proper meal there if you are in the mood. Also, L'As du Falafel is very tasty and definitely save room to taste une crepe au Nutella from a street vendor - I think the best vendors are found on the Boulevard Montparnasse since there is a concentration of restaurants serving food from Bretagne in that neighborhood. There is a great open air market bio (organic) on the Boulevard Raspail, which intersects with Montparnasse. There is this guy who sells the best salt that he harvests from the English Channel around Brittany. As for Bouillabaisse, don't be too disappointed if you can't find it, as it's not really a typical Parisian dish. If you see it, then that's great, but it's more of a Southern France thing. Also, there is a really great restaurant called Chez Marcel run by this sweet older man. It's a tiny place and they serve Lyonnais cuisine. I would highly recommend it - wonderful food and not too expensive. I've been there several times and have never been disappointed. It's located on a street just off Boulevard Montparnasse, 7 rue Stanislas.
laurelie at 9:56AM on 07/09/09
oh and one more thought - I've had the best breakfasts of my life at bed and breakfasts in France, so I would not say that breakfast is to be avoided at all costs in France - that is way too broad a statement. Usually it is a rip-off at a hotel in Paris when you have access to tons of bakeries and patisseries, but I really have had some knock-out breakfast (delicious croissants, bread, jam, etc) in towns across France and would not just pass them up as a rule - that would be a big mistake.
laurelie at 10:04AM on 07/09/09
Any good vegetarian options that you guys know of? I am traveling there as well about teh same time and have gotten a lot of ideas from thsi thread... thanks.
MadelynRodriguez at 3:49PM on 07/09/09
@Madelyn - Rose Bakery on the Rue des Martyrs. It has phenomenal prepared salads, breads and all other goodies. It's not really French food - it's actually more British, but it's a wonderful place. Also, since French food is not typically vegetarian, you might want to check out some Moroccan/African or Vietnamese places for more of a selection. One place that comes to mind is L'Atlas - a Moroccan place.
laurelie at 4:31PM on 07/09/09
Ice cream at Berthillon!
julie527 at 4:55PM on 07/09/09
Oooh, the last comment here - and I can't resist adding to - @julie527,
Berthillon - absolutely! But don't go to the main store...go around the corner, down a side street on the Ile de la Cite where there is a window... ask for the melon ice cream. You will have died and gone to heaven.
It's Paris. Eat everything... Eat like the French. Let go of all of your inhibitions... You will be the richer for it.
llincoln at 10:28PM on 07/09/09
It is completely possible to survive on nothing but wine, crepes, baguettes and pastries for four days. I've proved it.
So jealous!
embolini9 at 8:03AM on 07/10/09
Get a copy of Pariscope at the newsstand. It will list restaurants, museums, plays, things to do by arrondisement. You can find vegetarian restaurants and health food stores in that (boulliabaise as well). If you like hot dogs & pork products, eat choucroute. Yes on the streets north of the Boulevard Montparnasse near the station there are a lot of creperies. I am fond of Ploughstel. Eat sole meuniere and mille feuilles at Le Dome. If you are fond of seafood - have a seafood or oyster platter over ice. Before you go, get to know the regional cuisines - Alscace, Gascony, Provence - so you can make informed decisions on what to expect.
I think it's great to go places that are recommended by experts, but it's really more fun to discover things on your own. Any small attempt at speaking French will elicit kind behaviour from most Parisians. They will recommend things, offer advice etc.
Say bonjour and au revoir, merci any time you enter or exit a store.
When have coffee stand at the bar. More fun and way cheaper.
Dish at 4:29PM on 07/10/09
How exciting! I am thrilled for you. Here are a few tips:
One of my favorite restaurants in Paris La Fontaine de Mars is near where you are staying in the 7th. President Obama was recently dined there on a date with Michelle, so you may now need to make a reservation in advance - who knows?
My favorite first meal in Paris is at Le Souffle in St. Honore.
For the best duck confit you may ever have, try Chez Dumonet-Josephine.
More to come..
Paula Maack at 5:49PM on 07/10/09
I loved the breakfast at Angelina across from the Jardin des Tuileries, which is famous for their thick hot chocolate.
Brunch at Laduree was fantastic! Laduree (with or without brunch) is a must!!
Briezh Cafe has incredible crepes, especially the ones with Salted Butter Caramel - yum!
And more...
Paula Maack at 5:50PM on 07/10/09
If you are planning to visit Musee D'Orsay Coloir Cafe is a nice place to eat.
Here is some info on Berthillon Glacier.
Something to note: Bouillabaise is actually a specialty of Marseilles, but you can find it in Paris, of course.
And finally, a picnic is quintessentially Parisian, so try to enjoy at least one Picnic with a View.
I have several more tips about what to see, eat and do while visiting Paris on my blog, if you are interested. Enjoy your trip and have a blast!!
Cheers,
~ Paula
Paula Maack at 5:50PM on 07/10/09
Bouillabaisse is from Marseille, not Paris--an entirely different region. It's like going to Texas to say you're excited to try the bagels. You won't see it on most menus, and I wouldn't bother asking for it.
Going to Paris should be about experiencing what's there--I second the commenter that if there's anything you truly won't eat, learn the name in French so you can avoid it. Most restaurants do have English menus, though, and they'll spot you coming a mile away. I'd recommend L'Absinthe (Place du Marche St Honore, they have these little ravioli I can still taste), Chez Julien, Hotel Lutetia, and there are some really great seafood places around the Place des Vosges--you'll be there when there are oysters in season, and I have to say, I think a dozen of those, a bottomless bread basket, and a few bottles of cold Sancerre was the best meal I've ever had. Enjoy a leisurely breakfast, survive on sandwiches and pastry during the day, and enjoy!
klw07 at 10:31PM on 07/10/09
When I went, my travel partners and I liked to walk around and explore a lot. We found ourselves down odd alleys in the Latin Quarter at dinner time more than once, and would just stop at a random, local place. The best food we ate the whole time was at those places.
grumblekitty at 2:25AM on 07/11/09
Walk down any side street. Look for the man in a chic suit drinking an espresso or a glass of red wine. That's your cafe. And there's lots of Vietnamese and Moroccan food to sample as well.
As for hotel breakfasts, the best one I ever had was in Paris. A basket of fresh baguette, a crock of butter, a jar of house-made jam, and some very strong coffee.
Even train stations in France sell good food. Baguette with brie and ham will be fresh and delicious.
If you find a creperie that does buckwheat crepes (know in Breton as Krampouzhe) eat them at once. They need little topping, but can be had sweet or savoury.
NotAmerican at 3:30PM on 07/11/09
And come to think of it, this web site has a few salient points. There's not much gov't oversight in Paris kitchens, as it turns out.
http://themachoresponse.blogspot.com/2009/07/eating-in-france-dying-inside.html
lambowner at 11:51PM on 07/15/09