I will be the first to salute the magic that happens upon dredging certain foods through a drift of flour, salt, pepper and a smack of garlic powder/paprika/cumin, etc.; green tomatoes! pounded-to- translucent chicken breasts! slabs of creamy polenta! beef cubes! But cuts of potato? Nope. Do not put even a thin dusting of alter-starch between my fries and the hot oil waiting to transform them. And yet more and more restaurants are committing this heresy...How do you like your fries, naked or condomized in a dredge?
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