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Dining in Paris

We're going to Paris in June! Staying in the 8th Arrondissement near the Champs Elysees. We want good local fare that won't postopone our future retirement. Pas de hamburgers, s'il vous plais! Any recommendations from some of you more seasoned travelers?

20 Comments:

I went to La Regalade back in October and it was phenomenal. You'll have to call for reservations though.
David Lebowitz does a really good job summarizing all these great (not too expensive) restaurants in Paris, so I would check out his site. One of the places he recommended, Breizh Cafe, turned out to be really good, and all of his other recommendations were definitely quality.
Otherwise, picnics are always a good option at this time of the year. There are tons of gorgeous parks in Paris and wine, cheese and bread are never too far. Check out Jardin Luxembourg, Jardin des Plantes, Parc Monceau. Sometimes the lawns are off-limits, but just trek around a bit and you'll find a spot. Nearby the Jardin Luxembourg there is a Kayser bakery, with really great sandwiches. Pierre Herme also has a shop close by, so you can get macarons for dessert.
Champs-Elysees area is really pricey and not good for food, so don't eat your meals around there if you can help it. Just wander over the bridge (le Pont Alexandre III) and you'll soon be out of the tourist trap area. Have fun!

Oh, and definitely visit Rue Cler, a pedestrian only market street. It's close by to where you are staying (near the Eiffel Tower) and really cute. And there are a lot of good places to eat around there, some pricier than others. But again, if you just buy food for a picnic on the Rue Cler, then you can walk over to the lawn (Esplanade des Invalides) that is really pretty and quiet.
http://maps.google.com/maps?q=paris%2C%20map&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&hl=en&tab=wl

I have been trying to post my recommendations but I think it is too link rich to show up, so I will break this into a few posts.

I a few good recommendations on my blog, including:

Briezh Cafe - fantastic crepes in the Marais
Le Souffle - best first meal in paris, near Place de la Concorde and Hotel Costes in the 1st Arrondissement.
La Fontaine de Mars - wonderful bistro food near the Eiffel Tower in the 7th.

More to follow...

Auberge Nicolas Flamel - Located in the home of Nicolas Flamel (from Harry Potter fame - creator of the Sorcerer's Stone) the oldest home in Paris in the 4th, near Les Halles.
L'Escure very inexpensive bistro fare near the Jardin de Tuileries in the 1st.
Angelina - a Salon de The (tea salon, which means continuous service and no expectation that you order 3 courses), across from the Tuileries in the 1st. Best thick hot chocolate, wonderful pastries, light meals and lovely breakfast.

Laduree - wonderful pastries, phenomenal macarons, and continuous service with a great affordable brunch.
Chez Dumonet-Josephine - best duck confit and duck fat fries, ever! Located in the 6th.
Chez Julien - lovely al fresco dining with view of an ancient church, just a stones throw from the Seine, in the St Paul area of 4th.

Berthillon - considered the best ice cream in the world, on the Ile St. Louis in the 4th.
Cafe Verlet - some of the best coffee in paris, in the 1st near The Louvre.

Here are a few more suggestions, which are not covered on my blog:

Creperie Josselin - Considered the best creperie in Paris. Near Tour Montparnasse in the 15th.

Brasserie Balzar - Typical (but very good) brasserie fare near Sorbonne in the 5th (Latin Quarter), frequented by professors and students. Pushy waiters/maitre'd (we still laugh about them a year later), great roasted chicken and duck fat frites, excellent onion soup. The steak tartare someone had at the next table looked great, too.

Huiterie Regis - oysters (and a scant few other seafood items) in a very small, casual, uber-friendly spot where you will enjoy the company of the owner and your fellow diners, and many glasses of chilled wine (most likely more than you ordered, whether on the house or from another diner).

I have a few new dining in Paris recommendations I will be posting on in the next several days that I don't want to give away here, just yet. But, I will come back next week and leave another comment with links for you, once they are published.

All of my restaurant posts list prices, so you will get a good idea of what you are in for - before the fact. Also, I have many sightseeing and other Paris suggestions that might enhance your trip, on my blog.

I hope this helps! Have a great time in Paris. I wish I were going to Paris next month, you lucky lambowner!! :-)

Cheers,

~ Paula

I'm in Paris right now, and I never want to leave.....
For steak-frites you MUST go to Le Relais de l'Entrecote in St Germain des Pres (20 rue St Benoit, 75006, just behind the famous Café des Flores). Steak-frites is ALL they do - there is no menu. You are seated, you order some wine & water, you are served a delicious green salad with a mustardy vinaigrette and walnuts, you are asked how you like your steak, and that's it! The steak comes sliced with their "famous" sauce (the recipe is a closely guarded secret) and crispy hot frites. Just when you think you've had enough, the rest of your meal comes so that you can enjoy piping hot fresh frites, more of the delicious sauce and more steak. Lovely! Some Parisian friends took me, and they are regulars here because it is soooooo good.
Bon appetit!

P.S. I hope that wasn't complete overkill. J'adore Paris!

P.S.S. I forgot to mention that Laduree has three outposts, one in the 8th on the Champs Elysees, which is the location I blogged about.

@Paula... how is it you have written so much about PARIS??? Enquiring minds want to know...

@Madelyn The real question is, how have I managed to write so little about Paris?

Thank you all! Good stuff, I am printing away. Question, Paula, Vegemite, and all, what's the real story on communication in restaurants in Paris? Do most restaurants have an english speaking waiter? I had two years of french in college, which was a looooong time ago. I have Rick Steve's travel book and French phrase book, but don't think I can re-learn my french in the next week enough to be conversant. Will I have difficulty in ordering my steak rare at Le Relais de l'Entrecote or trying to order those frites cooked in duck fat? Must. have. those. fries. I'm losing sleep dreaming about not being able to communicate. Quel horror! This trip came up rather fast, without much time to prepare. I appreciate you all taking the time to respond to my plea! Merci beaucoup!

@vegemite -damn I want to go to Paris right now for steak frites! YUM.

@lambowner - I went to Paris in the spring of 2002 and I found most waiters to know a little bit of English and most places had English menus. However it never hurts to make the effort even if it's just je voudrais then point to the menu item. And don't order water with ice, it's just not done in France.

"Je voudrais, je voudrais", looking it up in the dictionary....un moment! That's how it will go! Terrified, I am to be the ugly American! Sob! I am from Texas, and aqua con hielo is my language. Culture shock!

@lambowner - Great question! Here are some basic tips on dining, communicating and dealing with waiters in Paris:

1) Most waiters in Paris speak at least enough English to get by. The key with the French is manners, and your fervent attempt at speaking French before resorting to English (I talk about this some on the Paris Page of my blog).

2) Always address the waiter (or anyone else) as soon as you see them by saying "bonjour Monsieur/Madame/Mademoiselle" first, before saying or asking anything else. If you don't, it's rude, and they will be rude in return. Most Americans don't realize this.

3) If the waiter gives you an English Menu, ask for one in French. The menus often differ, and you will want the true menu, not the watered down one.

4) Buy a french food menu decoder. I used Eating and Drinking in Paris (this was the best investment I made). Hold it discreetly in your lap to help translate the menu. As I said, most waiters speak English, but you will want the decoder.

5) When it comes to steak in Paris, supposedly they always cook it on the rare side - considerably so, but I believe many waiters modify this for Americans. (Every tip you need for ordering steak is in the book I referenced above, btw.) Keep in mind that the beef in France is very lean, and on the tough side. Although, the steak I had at Chez Julien was surprisingly tender, so there are exceptions. But honestly, unless you are dead set on steak, I would order just about anything else while you are in Paris. Steak tartare on the other hand, is wonderful in Paris, though it resembles ground meat more than the small cubed style you see here in the U.S.

6) In Paris, pommes frites are traditionally fried in duck fat, though not all restaurants make it that way. Your best bet is to visit the spots recommended for great frites, since not all frites are created equal. Of course, you can always ask the waiter how they are prepared.

7) This may go without saying, but dress well - no sneakers, sweats, etc. (you may already know this, but many Americans don't). If you wear a scarf - no matter the weather - you will fit in. It's weird, but it's true. Wear very nice shoes- always. (I have a few tips about attractive walking shoes on my blog, if you need help with that. Keep in mind you will put in many miles a day on your feet, so leave the strappy shoes behind.)

8) Don't let them smell intimidation, Act like you are just - slightly - more important than the waiter, and that you are slightly bothered by them. Try not to smile - it's a dead give-away that you are American.

9) If you follow the steps above, and say your merci's and s'il vous plais', waiters will almost always be charming and accommodating.

I'm happy to answer any other questions you have to help your trip be a smashing success, whether here, or on my blog.

Cheers,

~ Paula

P.S. In French the menu is actually called le carte. The term "menu" is used for prix fixe style menus. If you ask for a menu you will be given a multi-course prix fixe menu, as opposed to le carte, where you will have "a la carte" options, as well.

P.S.S. The term "entree" refers to appetizers. Most meals consist of an entree+main plate+dessert.

I forgot to mention Le Coupole on Blvd. Montparnasse in the 15th, near Tour Montparnasse. Great frites, steak tartare, fois gras, oysters, etc.

It is a lovely Belle Epoque brasserie that was frequented by Picasso, Hemingway, Henry Miller, and Dali, as well as Josephine Baker, Kiki of Montparnasse and others back in the day. It is a gorgeous brasserie, frequented by both Parisians and savvy travelers.

You could combine it with a trip to Tour Montparnasse to enjoy some of the best views in Paris.

Cheers,

~ Paula

@ lambowner, YES I agree with Paula! You must greet all waiters, shop staff (even at the Supermarket) with a Bonjour Monsieur/Madame/Mademoiselle! Also when you leave (shops too) you must say "Merci. Au Revoir". It's just what is done. It's simply rude not to.

Luckily I speak enough French to get by here, and understand questions asked by waiters and shop staff, so I haven't encountered any problems. I would recommend that you learn how to say how you would like your steak done (bleu = really really rare, saignant = rare, a point = medium, bien cuit = well done). Follow this up with a s'il vous plait, and you're set! As there is no menu at l'Entrecote, it does simplify matters somewhat!

"Je prends....... s'il vous plait" is French for "I'll have........ please" and this is all you need to say to order in a restaurant.

Bon Voyage et Bon Appetit!

Just in case anyone checks back to this talk, I am here to say, we had a fabulous time in Paris, from June 1-June 11. As to the food you were all right on, thank you for the tips! My college french and your tips helped us eat well in Paris. We ate at Le Dome for my 50th BD on June 9, awesome food, and awesome prices. We tried to go to Briezh Cafe, since it was recommended by two of you, and a guide book, but at 8:00 p.m. in the rain, it was closed, and someone rushed into our taxi! Sob. So hard to get that taxi at that time.

Then we tried Le Relais de l'Entrecote in St Germain des Pres (20 rue St Benoit, 75006, just behind the famous Café des Flores) on our last day in Paris, at 2:30 p.m., and were turned away. Too late for lunch. My husband was soooo annoyed, but we went to Cafe Fores and returned to Le Relais de l'Entrecote that night (June 10) and called for reservations, but they would not accept them. We were seated within 5 minutes at 9 p.m., but by 10 p.m. there was a wait. Really great recommendation. For two of us, with a 14euro bottle of wine the total was only 65euro (about $100) which was cheap compared to our many other meals. But the meal was fantastic, and just as you described, Prices are so steep in Paris. Stopped in at the Ritz for a cocktail and one martini is $60! Opted for the $20 beer.

We also ate at (in order) Le Royal Tour (near Eiffel), Le Louchebem Cafe in Les Halle (good for me, bad for husband who thought andouille is the same in France as in Louisiana, (it's not sausage, it's cow stomach, and he ate it all to preserve his dignity), Pizza Vesivio (twice, a good chain for pizza), Publicis Drugstore on the Champs-Elysees, Le Deux Palais (cheese only) near Sainte Chappelle, Cafe Central on Rue Cler (yes and picnicking foods for later, good call, we had a tiny fridge!), Cafe Madeleine, while shopping, La Lorainne for oysters, just up the street from our hotel, (the rest of the meal is not at all edible), Brasserie Lipp (very historic, good and pricey food, a greatly diverse group of fellow diners sitting seemingly in my lap), Saint Joseph's Italian in the Marais district, because we were lost after not getting into Briezh, and finally Le Dome. Lots of sandwiches in between. jambon et emmental. you know the drill!

Merci, mon amis!

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